I'd only had a brief look at how it worked and saw the voltage flipped polarity as it toggled
between lock/unlock.

Sam of Sam_loves_HDI recently joined and put a link to his vid of when he fitted a cheap Ebay
remote system to his van and pointed out how it worked
"Right Thassit!" says I "I'm having on of them too" and bought one for £13.69
This one in fact
https://www.ebay.co.uk/ipp/373764727348?

It works a treat and I get about a 40 meter range on the remote probably because It's behind the USB panel atop the dash
I also linked it to the indicators so I get them flashing during lock/unlock
The cables going to Pins 7 and 9 at the back of the hazard warning switch were easy enough to access for this

How it works:
Basically you cut cable 6291 going to the driver door lock and route it through the NC contacts of one of the new box relays
and also to the NO of the other relay with a ground on the other side.
This method allows you still be able to lock it with a key should the remote fail.

the device also has 2 cables for locking trunk/window options but I haven't looked into those yet
but I reckon they could be used to set/disarm an alarm system

If your remote has stopped working or you have an earlier model that works by key only this may be useful

the stock circuit diagram with my crude mods

Dropping the turbo and pulling the head/manifold sounds like a plan, hope it works for you

This diagram was hastily snagged just before my VMware SEDRE went down and I'm struggling to get it
working again
I have annotated it with the main device names and hope/assume it's relevant to the earlier mk1's
with keypad security

I think it's important to note that if jumping a supply direct to the pump is done
to allow the van to be driven,
this will probably disable the interia relay circuit
and in the event of a collision, the engine wont automatically cut out, so buyer beware !

I'm too cautious to celebrate so will be quietly grateful and see how long I can keep it like this.

I’ve a 2008 Dispatch 1.6hdi, since I’ve had it I have never been able to flick through the different displays on the small mileage screen in between speedo & rev counter. I believe this should display mpg & range and possibly some other info. I think it’s controlled by a button on the end of the wiper stalk. However the button is rock solid, I have cleaned and scrubbed and dropped a small amount of lubricant to see if it would free it up to no avail, so questions are;

A) is it actually a button? & does it control the screen I think it does
B) any other way to see this info - just curious more than anything
C) if it is a button, I’m assuming I’ll just need to replace the stalk (van previously belonged to a plasterer and even after 2 years of cleaning still finding countless amounts of plaster dust, so can only assume it’s blocked the button)

Ta ?

The wiring diagram part does ask for an RPO number and engine type
The RPO number is on a sticker on the door pillar on mine and the diagrams I have
all seem relevant so far

If it can done without it might also be a good option

Let us know how it goes either way!

Seat conversion is not easy, the 306 seats having rails far apart. On the off side I have fitted the seat on a pivot plate construction of plywood. Not so fancy as the ones you buy at > 200 Euros but sturdy pivoting around M16 bolt/nut and large washers. I could make some pictures if you're interested.

Diagbox is indeed very, very slow. I had one nice working but then I didn't hear any more switching of the relay and had another. Indeed the least you'd expect is proper reset of faults. That's why BT/Torque Pro does not fit.

There are some limitations due to it not being able to phone home so it may not work via a VIN number
but you can input van type manually its good enough for wiring diagrams which I mainly wanted and
gives info on most of mechanical and body assemblies.

Wiring wise, It does ask for an RPO number which i found on the door pillar.
Not sure is this is specific to Pugs or all PSA vans have it, if your dispatch has one tell me and the engine type and I'll see if it works
as they're all essentially the same van albeit with varying engines, I reckon a lot of the info is relevant.
Now I've worked out how to print the diagrams, I can build my own manual.

(reminder, that all-any radio standard positive terminal is mixed up on Pugs (and Citros), power on and start needs be switched around to standard pin slots.... fidly job)
Code for £12 is cheap, I've paid £30+ for
Pug Radio not Clarion- a lie! be it disguised in different livery, it still is the same Clarion Radio
No brainer, fit the new one of fleabay for £30+ or with rear cam, but

HOW's rust enjoying your van, will it get next MOT, will it be longer than few months for jobbie?

I didn't need to switch the terminals for this one as it was the original stereo for the van - swapped them over for the last stereo easily enough. I have small fingers and persistence!

Rust needed patching up for MOT - I haven't looked at how much needed doing but it passed so we are all good for another year ?

I assume the same applies to the C8/807, but that's only assumption

At the time I went online to search for a replacement but the best I could find was on ebay at £68!!!  …..how much!!!!

Then recently I had another look and yes, I did find listings on ebay for less at around the £45 mark but as far as I was concerned, that was still a total rip off for what is essentially a hollow piece of plastic.

Then this turned up on aliexpress.

Now I’m not keen on supporting the Chinese economy any more than I have to but I suspect that the oe units are probably made in China anyway and they just slap on a massive markup with the stuff on ebay and elsewhere. So I ordered one from aliexpress and it arrived a week later. Very good service too with tracking updates every day and the product seems just as good quality as the original. There is the difference that the top cap is textured rather than smooth like the original, but I expect I can probably refit the original anyway if it bothers me that much.

This is the type that fits on a spline like below, where you have to pull straight up to remove it.

I’ve concluded that pushing down or using a mallet on the top cap and outer shell to drive them home is not a good idea and is probably what caused my original to start cracking, so the best way to fit the new one is to remove the top cap and only apply force to the internal fitting where it goes over the spline.

Hope this helps others to save a few quid.

Sadly I doubt any other classification is going to get you through. None of these are classified as Car Derived Van which I gather is allowed. That's more for the Partner/Berlingo

The only one that's allowed as far as I know is Motor Caravan, but they've tightened up the rules and it's now nigh on impossible to get that for our small vans.

Take a look at https://www.catcar.info/peugeot/?lang=en

Click Expert near the bottom under Commercial vehicles

You'll then see in grey a number of body types like CAB FLOOR - LONG TYPE 8

One of these will represent your model. If you go through to 2.0 HDi and then Body work you can see if the setup matches your one

Ah the old fallacy of "I'm npt spending £1000 on this old thing, I'm gonna spend £5000 on a replacement instead"

So accurate and right, it hurts!

On a positive- always enjoy getting back to this board

I've got a more urgent issue currently which is the footwells turning into a pond.

Have cleaned out the scuttles but there is so much water absorbed in that foam from the recent rain, I can't fathom how to get it out and dry given I can barely lift the side of the mat with all the weight.

Wondering if simply cutting it out in small pieces and starting from bare metal is the best course of action, or if that's overkill!

No signs of rust as yet in the areas I can see so it's possible this is the first time it's happened to this extent.

I'll do a fresh post in case others have input on the matting situation!

then limp mode, i believe that was the egr valve
im close to having an attemp at changing or cleaning it. its very difficult to get at it
one fault was
the fuel and temp went to full and the engine off red light came on
the engine was cutting out but starting its self straight away. this fault damaged the crankshaft rubber i managed to weld the crankshaft back together to get home then
i changed that.
i also fitted a new crank sensor
AND
took the auto fuel cut out switch off
this is a black unit with a red rubber cap. its meant to cut the fuel supply in an accident
i cleaned it and put it back
the engine wouldnt start
i pushed the middle red bit back down and the engine started fine

i think the ball bearing can get rusty and the two metal blade contacts can corrode, causing the switch to cut the fuel !

anyway
i renewed the fuel pump relay
and stripped out all the wirering between the ECU across the front of the engine to the fuses and relays but found no damaged wires
but it kept cutting out until i fitted the new crank sensor/ and or stripped and cleaned the accident fuel cut off valve
trouble is i did both at the same time so which was the cause.

so back to the present
van now has just over 40k

starts spot on
orange engine light comes on and goes off when it decides to
the light will normally come on if i give it higher revs

next fault is

until the revs get up the engine is  sluggish
then as it reaches a certain rev range away it goes, just like hitting a power band

as i said im going to work on van over next few weeks

first job is egr, i shall do or shall i say attempt to do it from under the van with quarter drive sockets
but suggestions after that please
im ready to change the timing belt but.just incase any one has had issues re crank shaft and the movement to.micro ajust the timing. as it stands i only have the engine locking tools
has any one checked the timing on this engine with out the fancy gauge

cheers
mick

Rear drivers indicator has been intermittently giving me problems for a while and at the last MOT I spotted the earth was corroded. When I looked at it last week there was very little of the earth left in the connector. I went with soldering a flying lead to the track and then fixing it under the bolt that holds the cluster in place. I probably ought to go have a look at the passenger side as well as I assume it will be doing the same thing (but it's not giving me any problems currently.

I like the idea of drilling a rivet out though as I'm a teeny bit concerned that the solder might not hold.

im not sure what my van is worth. with 12 months MOT i would like a higher than average asking price with all the future proofing i have done to it. as you can see from my last posts, nothing was bodged. everything was done to a "autisticly" high standard. the van comes with air conditioning, and it comes with a "high quality Chinese" diesel heater fitted (its not a copy of a copy one.. its pretty good! i did my research on it) it will have the roof rack which is unbelievably handy and insanely strong. better than any other roof rack i have seen on one of these vans. dont forget also it has probably the best headlights one of these vans has ever had. they are unreal how good they are.

please look through this thread, and also check my youtube videos of the work i have done. i hope i have done it proud.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3zYtbW … O2ISNI3vhn

That is one of the suggestions that has been made. How long has yours been making that noise? Any long term issues other than people asking what that noise is as you walk away?!

It's always done it. I would be more concerned if it stopped doing it.

Things just keep happening with cars soon 30 years of age.

My blower unit works perfectly fine a heats perfectly fine but I can't get it to go into defroster mode, ie blowing upwards. It changes fine between legs and front.

I've taken the lower dash off and checked the wire going from the control to the mechanism and the mechanism seem to work.

Does anyone have any tips or do I have to remove the blower unit totally and check the flap?

Took her to the repair shop to have some other things fixed and when they tried to start it taking it out of the garage, it wouldn't start again. Starter seems to work just fine when it works, but somehow either something is draining the battery or the engine is not grounded enough.

I took the battery to ground cable off and brushed everything at the same time I changed the battery, so I can't say if it was the battery or the grounding.

But as it came back afterwards, it probably wasn't any of them.

The mechanics gonna take a look at it.

Post-2007 it's a whole new body

They sit with two 10mm nuts. Break pipe connects with an 11mm nut. Be sure to clean them nuts properly with a wire brush and cleaning spray/rust remover before trying to move them. Also make sure your break pipe doesn’t move with the nut. (I missed this but seemed to be able to bend them back)

Remove old, mount new et voila.

I tried taking the top lining off, everything seemed to go well and it was loose all around the top shelf but it was stuck under the top shelf.

Ive found no manual explaining it.

I found four small covers inside the top shelf and took them off, but it revealed nothing except a pin which the lining was attached to.

I didn't want to use any more force unless Im sure there's no screws Im missing

The rubber strap just suspends it from the body. You're lucky yours is still attached, mine has decided it likes being separate 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PSA_EW/DW_engine#DW10

When you say according to the VIN, what's that looked up on?