https://www.facebook.com/groups/2361457994382370

I too used those .ru sites but I found them hard to navigate. So glad this archived one exists

This style.

Original set the vehicle was delivered with when new has gone astray at some point. Vehicle current sitting on Alfa wheels so not in a particular rush. Any offers, pointers, comments welcome.

I am looking to modify my van slightly.  I'm not looking at much cause I actually think the styling is un-exceptional enough to look cool.  I do, however, want to lower it.  Not much but by about 40mm.

Is anyone aware of a lowering spring kit that is compatible.  I have AI's what i have in my head as a look I am going for.

I miss (jealous of those, that didn't rust away) old/ simple/ reliable van, like you wouldn't believe 

Hey hey some of ours did rust away, but I was stupid enough to get it rebuilt   

She's waiting for your text

NEW GIRLS

Mistress Ivanka
Shining Dawn
Freya Parker
Aline Golden
Gia Derza
Skye Blue
Lauren Phillips
Alex Voss
CANDY SMILE
Larissa Silva
Putri
Elle Brooke
Remy LaCroix

I'd only had a brief look at how it worked and saw the voltage flipped polarity as it toggled
between lock/unlock.

Sam of Sam_loves_HDI recently joined and put a link to his vid of when he fitted a cheap Ebay
remote system to his van and pointed out how it worked
"Right Thassit!" says I "I'm having on of them too" and bought one for £13.69
This one in fact
https://www.ebay.co.uk/ipp/373764727348?

It works a treat and I get about a 40 meter range on the remote probably because It's behind the USB panel atop the dash
I also linked it to the indicators so I get them flashing during lock/unlock
The cables going to Pins 7 and 9 at the back of the hazard warning switch were easy enough to access for this

How it works:
Basically you cut cable 6291 going to the driver door lock and route it through the NC contacts of one of the new box relays
and also to the NO of the other relay with a ground on the other side.
This method allows you still be able to lock it with a key should the remote fail.

the device also has 2 cables for locking trunk/window options but I haven't looked into those yet
but I reckon they could be used to set/disarm an alarm system

If your remote has stopped working or you have an earlier model that works by key only this may be useful

the stock circuit diagram with my crude mods

Dropping the turbo and pulling the head/manifold sounds like a plan, hope it works for you

This diagram was hastily snagged just before my VMware SEDRE went down and I'm struggling to get it
working again
I have annotated it with the main device names and hope/assume it's relevant to the earlier mk1's
with keypad security

I think it's important to note that if jumping a supply direct to the pump is done
to allow the van to be driven,
this will probably disable the interia relay circuit
and in the event of a collision, the engine wont automatically cut out, so buyer beware !

I'm too cautious to celebrate so will be quietly grateful and see how long I can keep it like this.

I’ve a 2008 Dispatch 1.6hdi, since I’ve had it I have never been able to flick through the different displays on the small mileage screen in between speedo & rev counter. I believe this should display mpg & range and possibly some other info. I think it’s controlled by a button on the end of the wiper stalk. However the button is rock solid, I have cleaned and scrubbed and dropped a small amount of lubricant to see if it would free it up to no avail, so questions are;

A) is it actually a button? & does it control the screen I think it does
B) any other way to see this info - just curious more than anything
C) if it is a button, I’m assuming I’ll just need to replace the stalk (van previously belonged to a plasterer and even after 2 years of cleaning still finding countless amounts of plaster dust, so can only assume it’s blocked the button)

Ta ?

The wiring diagram part does ask for an RPO number and engine type
The RPO number is on a sticker on the door pillar on mine and the diagrams I have
all seem relevant so far

If it can done without it might also be a good option

Let us know how it goes either way!

Seat conversion is not easy, the 306 seats having rails far apart. On the off side I have fitted the seat on a pivot plate construction of plywood. Not so fancy as the ones you buy at > 200 Euros but sturdy pivoting around M16 bolt/nut and large washers. I could make some pictures if you're interested.

Diagbox is indeed very, very slow. I had one nice working but then I didn't hear any more switching of the relay and had another. Indeed the least you'd expect is proper reset of faults. That's why BT/Torque Pro does not fit.

There are some limitations due to it not being able to phone home so it may not work via a VIN number
but you can input van type manually its good enough for wiring diagrams which I mainly wanted and
gives info on most of mechanical and body assemblies.

Wiring wise, It does ask for an RPO number which i found on the door pillar.
Not sure is this is specific to Pugs or all PSA vans have it, if your dispatch has one tell me and the engine type and I'll see if it works
as they're all essentially the same van albeit with varying engines, I reckon a lot of the info is relevant.
Now I've worked out how to print the diagrams, I can build my own manual.

(reminder, that all-any radio standard positive terminal is mixed up on Pugs (and Citros), power on and start needs be switched around to standard pin slots.... fidly job)
Code for £12 is cheap, I've paid £30+ for
Pug Radio not Clarion- a lie! be it disguised in different livery, it still is the same Clarion Radio
No brainer, fit the new one of fleabay for £30+ or with rear cam, but

HOW's rust enjoying your van, will it get next MOT, will it be longer than few months for jobbie?

I didn't need to switch the terminals for this one as it was the original stereo for the van - swapped them over for the last stereo easily enough. I have small fingers and persistence!

Rust needed patching up for MOT - I haven't looked at how much needed doing but it passed so we are all good for another year ?

I assume the same applies to the C8/807, but that's only assumption

At the time I went online to search for a replacement but the best I could find was on ebay at £68!!!  …..how much!!!!

Then recently I had another look and yes, I did find listings on ebay for less at around the £45 mark but as far as I was concerned, that was still a total rip off for what is essentially a hollow piece of plastic.

Then this turned up on aliexpress.

Now I’m not keen on supporting the Chinese economy any more than I have to but I suspect that the oe units are probably made in China anyway and they just slap on a massive markup with the stuff on ebay and elsewhere. So I ordered one from aliexpress and it arrived a week later. Very good service too with tracking updates every day and the product seems just as good quality as the original. There is the difference that the top cap is textured rather than smooth like the original, but I expect I can probably refit the original anyway if it bothers me that much.

This is the type that fits on a spline like below, where you have to pull straight up to remove it.

I’ve concluded that pushing down or using a mallet on the top cap and outer shell to drive them home is not a good idea and is probably what caused my original to start cracking, so the best way to fit the new one is to remove the top cap and only apply force to the internal fitting where it goes over the spline.

Hope this helps others to save a few quid.

Sadly I doubt any other classification is going to get you through. None of these are classified as Car Derived Van which I gather is allowed. That's more for the Partner/Berlingo

The only one that's allowed as far as I know is Motor Caravan, but they've tightened up the rules and it's now nigh on impossible to get that for our small vans.

Take a look at https://www.catcar.info/peugeot/?lang=en

Click Expert near the bottom under Commercial vehicles

You'll then see in grey a number of body types like CAB FLOOR - LONG TYPE 8

One of these will represent your model. If you go through to 2.0 HDi and then Body work you can see if the setup matches your one

Ah the old fallacy of "I'm npt spending £1000 on this old thing, I'm gonna spend £5000 on a replacement instead"

So accurate and right, it hurts!

On a positive- always enjoy getting back to this board

I've got a more urgent issue currently which is the footwells turning into a pond.

Have cleaned out the scuttles but there is so much water absorbed in that foam from the recent rain, I can't fathom how to get it out and dry given I can barely lift the side of the mat with all the weight.

Wondering if simply cutting it out in small pieces and starting from bare metal is the best course of action, or if that's overkill!

No signs of rust as yet in the areas I can see so it's possible this is the first time it's happened to this extent.

I'll do a fresh post in case others have input on the matting situation!