You are not logged in.
Pages: 1
Thanks, RegW.
I wasn’t aware of the MK1 / MK2 issue.
I thought it was just a ‘General Discussion’ section.
Noted.
Hi Oscarklemo.
I’m having to do this from memory, as the cheap Chinese alarm that I was using malfunctioned a few weeks ago, & I have to wait 25 working days for a replacement.
It did indeed work.
I had a side-effect though, which may possibly be specific to my vehicle (due to my modifications).
Side-effect: closing a sliding side-door triggered the central locking to lock the front doors.
My modification: I have insulation tape over the locking connections of the sliding side-doors to prevent them from ever locking.
That may seem counterintuitive, but I would prefer not to have thieves damage my van with crowbars – so the aim is to have the back door & side doors unlocked (but alarmed).
i.e. A thief will try the doorhandle & find that it opens (so they don’t gemmy it) but the alarm sounds & alerts the neighbours, which limits the thief’s treasure hunt to a few seconds.
(Anything of any value in my van is hidden under worthless stuff)
Having the front doors lock when a side-door is closed isn’t an issue for me, as I can never accidentally lock my keys in, due to my modification.
Good luck with your alarm.
I hope that you get more help from the people here than I did.
Update:
I took the door panel off & tried to trigger the locking mechanism by probing each wire; giving a brief positive & negative charge to each.
It did diddley squat. ☹
So, I took the radio out, to get behind the central locking buttons in the middle of the dash.
It has 8 wires that go to those buttons, and one of its two blue wires triggers the front door locks (using a negative trigger). Yaaay!
The only issue with it is that that blue wire both locks and unlocks using a negative trigger.
It’s not a big deal.
It just means that both the [Lock] & [Unlock] buttons of my alarm’s fob will trigger the mechanism to lock or unlock – depending on what state it’s currently in (rather than which button is pressed)
… if you see what I mean.
I’m going to feed both the [Lock] and [Unlock] wires of my alarm to that blue wire.
That should work
… shouldn’t it?
Thanks tee_cee.
I can see print on the white wires (inside the door), but I can’t see any print on the coloured wires.
I can’t trace those white wires visually, as they get twisted into a loom and go straight into the back of a connecter block which is so tight that I can’t pull it forward to see which white wires become which coloured wires.
The only other way to trace them would be to skin some of the pvc coating off the wires, and then send a current down (testing each one at the other end).
I was hoping that someone here would know what colour(s) work the locking mechanism.
But … if what you said is right about the central locking using one polarity to lock, and the other to unlock, then I won’t be able to work the central locking from the key-fob anyway, because the alarm has 2 wires and sends a negative down each one. ☹
Thanks anyway.
Hi All.
I’m trying to install an alarm on my dispatch, but I’m a complete amateur.
The only wires that I haven’t been able to pick up are the ones for the central locking.
My alarm sends a brief negative through its lock & unlock wires when I press the lock & unlock buttons.
Therefore I assumed that the central locking wires of the van would trigger the locking mechanism if given a brief negative.
I found the wires that come through the A-frame, from the door, and tried a negative to each one, but there was no ‘clunk’ of the door lock.
Can anyone tell me what colour the wires will be, and/or whether they will have a positive or negative trigger?
Many thanks.
John
N.B. All of the wires from inside the door (central locking & electric windows) are white.
They all go into a connector & come out in a variety of colours, but the connector is in so tight that I can’t pull it out, so I’m using a sharp test-lamp to prod the wires (& my fingers) which isn’t ideal.
Thanks, Steve.
I wasn't aware such a thing existed.
Looking at forums I found other people sharing my frustrations, particularly with the radio.
The first replies they get are usually people suggesting that they buy an after-market radio.
I suspect that that wouldn't work as the power to the radio is delivered from the BSI (which decides that you can only have X minutes), … presumably.
Other people suggest that they go to the dealers, who will then disable the 'mode'.
Then someone comes along that has tried that & explains that even the dealers can't do that.
... but there was one bloke that said that the dealers could extend the radio allowance to 30 minutes (which would be enough for most people).
I'm guessing that Lexia PP2000 & PASCOM is what the dealers would use to do that.
It sounds like a good idea.
Definitely worth looking into.
Thanks again,
John.
Thanks, James.
I think it might be the age of the vehicle rather than the manufacturer.
The rear doors of my 2007 Dispatch lock once the vehicle reaches around 6 mph (including reverse for some reason).
I’m not sure why the designer thought that threat of someone climbing into a van to hijack it (while stopped at traffic lights or whatever) is such a credible possibility, but who am I to disagree?
Thanks for telling me where it is.
Much appreciated.
John
Hi Chaps & Chapasses.
I’ve recently replaced my 2004 Scudo with a slightly newer Dispatch, which has a BSI (‘Body Systems Interface’ i.e. a brain), and I hate it.
I’m old-school and prefer things to stay switched on until I decide to switch them off.
Your help to bypass the workings of this device would be much appreciated.
The 3 things that I would like help with are:
1) The anti-hijack system (rear doors automatically locking)
2) The rear interior light switching off after 30 seconds
3) The radio switching off after 5 minutes
1) I’m guessing that the simplest thing to do with the doors would probably be to remove the wiring from the connectors, but I’m open to suggestions.
There is nothing of any value in the back of my van, so I’d rather the rear doors remained unlocked permanently; to avoid damage to the doors/locks by thieves.
2 & 3) For the interior light and radio, the best option is probably to bypass the BSI with permanent live wires, but which side of the BSI are the fuses?
What I have in mind is this:
People usually use piggy-back fuses to take power from a fuse, but I’m thinking of doing it the other way around (assuming that the power to the fuse comes after the BSI)
i.e. Battery –> BSI –> Fuse -> Component
If I replace that fuse with a piggy-back fuse (wired up to a permanent live) the component (radio or interior light) will have a power permanently, rather than when the BSI decides it can have some.
If the setup is the other way around (i.e. Battery –> Fuse –> BSI –> Component) the best method might be to ScotchLock a permanent live to the output wires from the BSI, I guess.
P.S. I don’t even know where the BSI is, or what it looks like – so I’d appreciate your help to find it.
Your advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
• Footnote – Please don’t take the time & trouble to explain the battery-saving intentions of the BSI. I am aware that the BSI is meant to save battery power, but it has the opposite effect in this instance, as starting the engine every 5 minutes (to continue listening to the radio) takes far more power than the radio itself, and 30 seconds of light is nowhere near long enough to put all of my equipment into the back of the van at the end of the day. Thanks.
Pages: 1