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#1 Re: Spare Parts » Steel rims 16" » 2023-11-23 22:39:11

AlvyLad wrote:
hedgerowpete wrote:

According to the door card i should run off 215/60/R16 99T tyres.
I am willing to go 202 to 225 on the width, 60% of the height to width is millimetres if i go to 55 or up to 65

I run 103T weight loads as i tow and she is often heavy. like me!!
I am planning several long Alpine and Scandinavian travels and wanted to buy top quality winter spec tyres and fit them to a spare set of rims, saves pulling rubbers on and off every time i want to go on a long drive.
For some reason 16" steel rims are rarer than alloys!
I thought a scrap yard or breaker would have a set and while i dont want the tyres with them i could get a set for reasonable money. Alas its not so. I have been messaging a bloke on the south coast all weekend for his advertisement but he is stone walling me for some reason

I imagine, they simply don't fit correctly by some or the other parameter... I strongly suspect the tiny (crucial) circumference issue on these hubs, when spacing/distance/offset correct, but "hole" is bigger (like most other vehicles), meaning the wheel would be "hanging" by the bolts alone, which isn't a good idea.


I dont understand your post?
You seem to be discussing the central hole in the middle of the steel rim that the hub beds into. which no one has mentioned or has changed or altered. You link it to a post describing the external dimensions of a rubber tyre. Which has nothing to do with the rim and its fixing to the hub and no one mentions bolts or hanging off bolts or hubs. it makes no sense to the conversation 202 to 225 is a tyre width 10mm wider or 10 mm less wide that the manufactures designated size, which according to the book is perfectly fine, the aspect ratio of 60% adjusted either way up of down by 5% of 215 is 10.75 mm taller so 5mm up or down from the manufactures guides, also still in spec. if the door card says 99T tyre loads and I tow a lot so i choose 101/103t that is a 25kg increase weight loading per corner for increased load on a tyre rating of 875kg per tyre with a max speed of 118mph, as i never go past 70mph and i dont load  past 3500kg in the van i dont understand why you would want to go over the manufacturesr guides and add extra heavey weight tyres?

Its a 3.5t van with 3.5t tyres?

You posts do not make any sense to me?

#2 Re: Spare Parts » Steel rims 16" » 2023-11-20 17:17:31

According to the door card i should run off 215/60/R16 99T tyres.
I am willing to go 202 to 225 on the width, 60% of the height to width is millimetres if i go to 55 or up to 65

I run 103T weight loads as i tow and she is often heavy. like me!!
I am planning several long Alpine and Scandinavian travels and wanted to buy top quality winter spec tyres and fit them to a spare set of rims, saves pulling rubbers on and off every time i want to go on a long drive.
For some reason 16" steel rims are rarer than alloys!
I thought a scrap yard or breaker would have a set and while i dont want the tyres with them i could get a set for reasonable money. Alas its not so. I have been messaging a bloke on the south coast all weekend for his advertisement but he is stone walling me for some reason

#3 Spare Parts » Steel rims 16" » 2023-11-12 14:30:05

hedgerowpete
Replies: 7

I am after five steel 16" rims for a 2015 tepee please.
I live in Birmingham and work in Slough so willing to travel around those areas to collect.
I don't want the tyres but will that them if they are on. I can get them taken off later.

PM me please or leave details here

#4 Re: General Discussion » Changing seats » 2023-09-12 10:08:32

Fridge03 wrote:
tee_cee wrote:

Just be aware that the base will be unique to the seat. Think of the base as being an adapter.


Yeah thank you. It's a base from an expert and after doing some reading about it seems that mini/bmw seats fit quite well. Just require the drilling of two new holes.

how did you get on and can you do the links for the bmw mini seats ideas please.

#5 General Discussion » sticking side door bottom slider » 2023-06-18 21:07:47

hedgerowpete
Replies: 0

What do i do to correct the sliding door. the bottom roller seams to jam or stick in place and takes a fair old pull to get it un stuck.

#6 Re: General Discussion » Installing an aftermarket CD player / Radio » 2023-06-15 13:43:16

I fitted a double din android head unit and i have no issues

Biggest con by far is a company called "Connects2" they advertise these leads that link new to old plugs and steering wheel control adapters and all that. All they do is charge a fortune for their parts. When they don't work or don't fit, they treat you like scum and push away from you. They have a customer don't care department and terrible help line and tech help. Only interested in taking your money and ignoring you.

#7 Re: General Discussion » Swapping Drivers Seat to one from other vehicles » 2023-06-15 13:33:44

One of the things I would really love for my van is to set the seat back another 50mm than it already goes. I want it higher, but when I get it high enough, I am banging my head on the liner compartments and need to go back further.

I would also love a seat that does not suffer from foam crush on the outside edges. I have thought of getting the seat rebuilt, but have them install a base that's further back.

#8 General Discussion » West Midlands based- diagnostic engineer » 2023-06-15 13:30:00

hedgerowpete
Replies: 0

I am after a diagnostic code genius guru to clear some fault codes on my van, 2015 teepee

what this monkey has done is used the illumination wire feed from the original radio plug to work a relay to switch on and off. that caused it to blow the fuse for the radio and dash display and TPMS.

I need the guru of codes to change the fuse/fuses that I have mucked up on.
Set up another lead for the ignition feed for my relay if I can not use the first radio one.
Reset the lights on the dash, TPMS, engine management lights.

Willing to travel and willing to pay in cash to get me out of my hole I have dug.

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#9 Maintenance » Water ingress to the rear light cluster » 2023-06-15 13:16:41

hedgerowpete
Replies: 0

I noticed this week, I had a tidemark in the driver's rear light cluster.

I flushed the dirt out of the whole unit and filled it with water and looked for a seal edge leak, but nothing showed. That leaves the rear bulb holder unit and its rubber seal, letting water by?

I am thinking water gets behind the cluster and works its way behind the black rubber seal and into the cluster??

Is there a way to prevent this happening again, or is it a 2mm hole in the lowest part of the back of the plastic cluster housing?

Also the tracks are slightly corroded, i cleaned them up with some scotch bright, do i need to repaint the galv coating?

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#10 Re: Maintenance » Under dash fuse box » 2023-04-23 12:27:38

cheers for this brilliant drawing, I shall pop off and snap a few fingers and break my forearm in a couple of places to make access easier. I always wanted to be a car mechanic but i was horribly disfigured at birth and possess only one elbow per arm and not the six of normal mechanics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

#11 Maintenance » Under dash fuse box » 2023-04-18 15:09:22

hedgerowpete
Replies: 4

I have lost the radio and the dash mounted display with the temp and MPG and clock.

I take it, i have blown a fuse or two.

Found the fuse board behind the cupholder.
Downside is that the fuses are side on and not front facing you, and I have fat fingers.

Does anyone know where the fuse is I am looking for?

#12 Re: Camper Conversions » Alternator identification and increase » 2022-10-30 18:51:11

Thanks both. The great plan is a starter battery as normal and a two 120ah in the back jump box build and an inverter and a DC to DC charger. I have already a solar panel on the roof and a solar charger unit. But it's struggling now it's dark so often or parked under tree canopies.

I thought you had to increase the alternator to prevent the extra battery charging load burning it out?

#13 Camper Conversions » Alternator identification and increase » 2022-10-29 10:54:14

hedgerowpete
Replies: 7

I am doing a van conversion.

I need to work out which alternator and its out put i have no my teepee. Is there a makers plate or id marks?

Its still on the van and burried in the depths of the engine.

Once we know what I have on the van how easy is it to increase its size and power. I see 90amp up to 150amp at the eurocar parts pages.

Do they all just swap out on the same mounting bracket points?

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