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Did any one ever figure out the purpose of the yellow tab with a voltage on it? There is a picture of it above. In Durhams van it was 2.45 volts. Where do you measure this voltage. It must be important as it is on all the Lucas injection pumps and they are different values on different vans.
I have the sorted the engine running rough issues and am posting this in case some one else suffers the same problems with knocking. It was down to broken wires in the loom. Six broken wires which disabled many things including the Advance solinoide, the throttle position potencometer, the MAF and the lift sensor. All the breaks were in the section of loom which leaves the ECU and goes to the right. Just above the fuel pump is a bracket which holds the loom in place. Undo the 8mm nut so you can get the wires out of the trunking. Inspect these before replacing any electronic components. Next job is my pixelated odometer and spinning door locks. Thanks for the help I would not have gotten sorted with out all the great info on this site. I find garages are fine for replacing clutches or doing specific definitive tasks but no one wants to fault find issues with an old van like this, so you just have to get help and advice from sites like this.
To clarify what position is the accelerator peddle at when you set/read 2.61 Volts on the out put of the potentiometer which is the 3 wire component directly above the yellow tab?
Thanks John, I am nearly sorted I believe. I had a broken wire in the loom going to the ECU so soldered that. I changed the MAF for a new one and swopped the vacuum lines going to the egr throttle because they were connected incorrectly. This has it running with no knock once it warms up a for a few min and power seems OK. I asked a question on a seperiate thread about the yellow voltage tag on top of the injector pump as I suspect that is what the potentiometer out put should be at tick over is tha5 correct? I will set that tomorrow and see if it smooths things out a little more.
The voltage of 2.61 on yellow tab in the picture above, it this what the out put (center wire) should be on the potentiometer when the engine it ticking over?
OK sorry for the delay John, but I am back at this again, MAF plugged in or not makes no difference. Also I read in the manual that Pin 2 (MAF) should have 12 Volts and it does not. Am I correct to assume the 12 Volts should come from the ECU. I want to check the power to the ECU itself and its outputs and inputs as my code reader is no longer communicating with it. Does any one have a pin out for the 2 ECU connectors so I can check for bad connections please. Also if I get another ECU can it just plug in or is there coding required please? I dont know if I have Bosh or Lucas Pump but it is a Face Lift MK1 and I think they are Bosh, can I tell by looking at it? or can any one tell me which numbers in the VIN tell me the pump type? Lots of questions guys sorry but I have some time now and want to get this sorted. Van ran OK yesterday with no knocking but bck doing it again today. I am suspecting my ECU is not doing any thing any quick way to check that?
I have finally got my Delphi to read the Codes on the Van this was after I cleaned up a very dodgy chassis Earth going to the ECU. Perhaps that brought the ECU back online. As I said before it ran the same with the ECU plugged out or in. The van also sounds a little better but is ticking over a little high at just over 1000 RPM. I can see in Live data that the Injection actual is 26 Degrees and the Injection request is 3.8 at idle. I also have a P0102 code which is Mass Air flow low input. I also have P0170 which is Fuel Trim Malfunction Bank 1. It is also running hotter than usual at about 90 degrees as opposed to the usual 70 fan is running and I can feel pressure in the pipe from the rad to the thermostat (it is not rock hard but you couldn't compress it easily). I will leave it cool down and do some internet searching. However perhaps some one will get a clue or suggestion from this. Thank All
Casper, I dont believe this is mechanical tappets or oil shortage, I am confident it is Deisel knock, I did squirt a little oil in to the valve cover when it was just started and it made no difference. Also the knocking stops when coasting in gear (i.e. when no fuel is being injected).
JohnDragonMan, I have fitted the new Crank Sensor and it made no difference. Also the resistance reading on the old was the same as the new. I also notice the engine runs the same with the Crank Sensor disconnected which is to be expected I guess as it is connected to the ECU and it runs the same with no ECU also. What parts are coded to the ECU i.e. what would I need to change if I wanted to try a different ECU? No warning lights when running and Dash Temp gets to 70 degreed which is normal. What about the advance solenoid?
Thank John I have taken the Crank Sensor out and I see 385 ohms across the 2 terminals of the sensor, does that sound right? I have ordered one any way. The tip is not broken it is all intact.
JohnDragonMan, I unplugged the ECU (2 connectors) and it starts and sounds the same however the alternator was changed recently and looks new. Could it be a blown ECU? Is anything codes to the ECU? I don't believe the injectors are in this van. Could I just drop one in or would it need an auto electrician.
This Van has one green Temp sensor and does not have the blue one beside it (directly below the rad expansion tank). It also has one on the RAD and there is a sensor on top of the Expansion Tank. Do you know which does what. I test the green one later. Thank you I am going to price an ECU in the scrappy now. Thank you for the help.
All comments welcome please.
Thank you.
Thanks AlvyLad lets see what happens. Also just to add to the detail above the Van has no issue starting so I am ruling out fuel pump and glow plugs.
I believe the engine is a DW8B and it has 220K KM
Hi all, I have a 2005 Dispatch 1.9 diesel face lift with a diesel knock on cold start which quiets down as the engine heats up but not completely. It started suddenly and sounds like rod knock but it is not. I believe it is diesel knock because it does not knock when coasting in gear, no fuel being used at this time. If I rev the engine, it knocks as I push the accelerator but stops briefly as I take my foot of the accelerator again no fuel being used during this brief time. Back knocking on tick over. So after reading a lot both here and online I see the Lift Sensor on the injector 4 is a possible cause. I note disconnecting it makes no difference to the Knocking and this also makes me believe it is the culprit. I measured the resistance of the sensor which is 100 ohms and that is what a good sensor should read. I traced the 2 wires back to the ECU and both have continuity to the connector (Pins 2J and 3K) of the ECU. However, I have not yet checked if connections make their way to the ECU circuit itself. (Through the multi plug connector) After checking the wiring diagram the pins (2J and 3K) are the correct ones. I have no warning lights on the dash when engine is running but they do come on with ignition as I would expect. So my questions are
1: Could the Lift Sensor be faulty and still read 100 ohms?
2: If the lift sensor is faulty would I expect to see a light on the dash?
3: Is driving it with the knock bad for it I wanted to take it for a spin and get the Injector cleaner I added to the tank to do its thing.
I don't have the van long and it had passed its annual test about 500 miles before I got it so should have been running well then and I drove it for about 3 weeks with no sign of Knock before this started.
Any thoughts please?
Hi all, I have a 2005 Dispatch 1.9 diesel face lift with a diesel knock on cold start which quiets down as the engine heats up but not completely. It started suddenly and sounds like rod knock but it is not. I believe it is diesel knock because it does not knock when coasting in gear, no fuel being used at this time. If I rev the engine, it knocks as I push the accelerator but stops briefly as I take my foot of the accelerator again no fuel being used during this brief time. Back knocking on tick over. So after reading a lot both here and online I see the Lift Sensor on the injector 4 is a possible cause. I note disconnecting it makes no difference to the Knocking and this also makes me believe it is the culprit. I measured the resistance of the sensor which is 100 ohms and that is what a good sensor should read. I traced the 2 wires back to the ECU and both have continuity to the connector (Pins 2J and 3K) of the ECU. However, I have not yet checked if connections make their way to the ECU circuit itself. (Through the multi plug connector) After checking the wiring diagram the pins (2J and 3K) are the correct ones. I have no warning lights on the dash when engine is running but they do come on with ignition as I would expect. So my questions are
1: Could the Lift Sensor be faulty and still read 100 ohms?
2: If the lift sensor is faulty would I expect to see a light on the dash?
3: Is driving it with the knock bad for it I wanted to take it for a spin and get the Injector cleaner I added to the tank to do its thing.
I don't have the van long and it had passed its annual test about 500 miles before I got it so should have been running well then and I drove it for about 3 weeks with no sign of Knock before this started.
Any thoughts please?
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