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#1 Re: Maintenance » "Tranfer the key chip", they said :-) » 2024-08-04 17:33:13

Just in case anyone hasn't seen how a folding key can fall apart ane lose the key down a drain...

mini_20240804_165450_HDR_1.jpeg20240804_165450_HDR_1.jpeg

#2 Re: Maintenance » "Tranfer the key chip", they said :-) » 2024-08-04 16:52:34

tee_cee wrote:

You could alwsys buy a new folding fob, and get a key cut with a photo.

I've still got the original (in pieces), but since the hinge on the stipid flippy key gizmo is the weak spot (that nearly dropped the metal part of my key down a drain) I took advice on how to avoid it :-)

In the words often quoted as Colin Chapman "Simplify, then add lightness" :-)

I was vaguely hoping someone would say something like "You only need this one chip for the immobiliser" :-)¹

Roops

#3 Maintenance » "Tranfer the key chip", they said :-) » 2024-08-04 04:59:27

roopid
Replies: 6

Old folding key fell apart (key fell out of hinge), remote never worked, so I got a plain key cut.

"Just transfer the chip", they said.

Can anyone confirm please? Looks to me as though the pickup coil and security chip are separate, so I can only use the new key to start the engine with the old key circuit board held/taped/glued to the ignition switch.

Pics of old key attached20240802_190846.jpeg
20240802_190900.jpeg

#4 Re: Maintenance » cooling system » 2024-06-06 20:37:32

The last time I blew through a heater I blew on one of the hoses and watched as water, then air bubbles came out of the other hose.

I vaguely remember that even 1 psi would be quite high for human lungs, so I wonder what could be restricting flow enough to need 2 bar!

I'd expect rad flush to shift any gunge, so is there a kinked hose, or a valve hidden somewhere?

#5 Re: Maintenance » PANIC. 1.6 HDi 16 engine keeps stalling after start » 2024-03-28 15:42:26

Update: After it hadn't rained all day, I tried again--engine started as normal, without an stalling while I drove it for an hour to recharge the battery and test.

Left it in only moderate rain all day and it starts and runs fine. Weird.

This could take time!

So I'm reasonably sure it's water somewhere. I just have to find out where :-)

#6 Maintenance » PANIC. 1.6 HDi 16 engine keeps stalling after start » 2024-03-25 15:40:25

roopid
Replies: 3

Please help--I'm stuck :-( 

Has anyone seen this? I don't even have the Haynes manual, because that's on the other side of town :-(

The fuel filter light stays on, and the engine starts willingly, then stalls about 2 seconds later, whether it's idling or making power (struggling to clear the junction).

There seems to be no water-in-fuel sensor--I think I remember it goes in the fuel filter. I opened the drain a week ago and NO water came out onto my catch tray, only clean fuel.

It rained quite hard overnight--would the engine start then stall if the ECU got a false signal from wet wiring?

Also, where is the fuel pump driven from? A relay somewhere? I'm guessing yhebrelay should stay on from when the engine is being started.

Roops :-(

#7 Maintenance » 1.6 HDi 16 oil leak from where? » 2024-03-19 20:00:20

roopid
Replies: 1

I changed the plastic cam cover/oil  breather separator and the breather system is cleaner, so obviously the old one was clogged. It was also leaking a bit around the rubber gasket.

But the top of the head is still wet near the inlet manifold and injectors. I don't know the layout--do the injectors need a seal where they pass through the head space with the valve gear? And could crankcase pressure blow oil drips out through those seals?

I did wash the top of the engine with Jizer after changing the cam cover, and I was disappointed to see oil drips after only 2 days.

You can see the oil to left and right of the injector in this pic:

20240317_101135_1.jpeg

#8 Re: Camper Conversions » I bought an adaptor to get 'hookup' power from a 7kW car charger and.. » 2024-03-16 21:58:27

It turns out the old-style 7kW AC 'chargers' aren't really chargers at all. They are just a switch for 240V AC, with some safeguards such as a basic signal on one wire that says the car is ready for it to turn on. The car does the rest.

So I found an adaptor on Ebay that simply connects to the 7kW unit, sends the "I'm ready to charge" signal and when the 240 AC turns on, it comes out on a standard 13A socket. Cheap and cheerful.

CCS2 rapid DC charging is different. The control gear is in the charging station, the car asks for a certain amount of DC current flow and the charger unit controls things--the car just connects the charger cable directly to the battery (400V or whatever).

I don't know whether CCS2 can fall back to (up to) 7kW at 240V AC. If I find out, I'll report back in case it helps :-)

Roops

#9 Re: General Discussion » Dillema » 2024-03-16 19:23:32

Hmm... tricky. I'm out of touch with prices, but any diesel that runs well and has an MOT seems to be worth more than you'd expect if it was made before the mid-2000s, because there's no DPF to clog and cause sudden engine failures.

Roughly £1,000 to have a working van. I paid just over £2,000 for my 2009 Mk2 and it's needed a load of work doing just in the first month (doing all the work myself, so far). If you have a use for a van, it might be worth it?

You won't get much for scrap--maybe £100 to £200 tops? On the other hand, it may be hard work to sell with a list of defects.

Roops

#10 Re: Camper Conversions » I bought an adaptor to get 'hookup' power from a 7kW car charger and.. » 2024-03-16 18:11:42

I'm told that some (all?) CCS 'rapid' charging stations will do 240V AC, as well as 400V (or even 800V) DC.

I'll have to look into this.

Roops

#11 Camper Conversions » I bought an adaptor to get 'hookup' power from a 7kW car charger and.. » 2024-03-16 18:03:08

roopid
Replies: 3

...guess what? The day I turned up at Sainsburglary to test the adaptor, sparkies were sweeping away the dust and rubble where the 7kW AC PodPoint chargers used to be, and there was fresh dust and rubble around the corner, where the new DC rapid chargers will be. ~400V DC is no good to me!

Drat! Double drat!

Roops

#12 Re: Maintenance » Oil leaks, crankcase breathers, emissions, and catch cans » 2024-03-14 10:59:21

What's the failure like for the 2-part flywheel/DMF then?

Do you lose drive, or does it just sound like spanners in a washing machine? :-)

Roops

#13 Re: Maintenance » Oil leaks, crankcase breathers, emissions, and catch cans » 2024-03-14 10:50:49

DPFs with bad monitoring seems to be the big problem, with everything from the 2000s. PSA, Ford, Toyota, everything.

The DPF may be what killed an old Peugeot 207 I had years ago--no DPF/emissions warning light, until yellow driving home. Normal response would be drive it gently to a garage, but it was dead before I'd finished the 10 miles home.

I can't decide whether
1) exhaust back pressure prevented the low pressure oil feed reaching the turbo and killed it, or whether
2) the gauze in the (early) turbo oil feed pipe was partly clogged by black sludge (previous owner skipped a few oil changes), and then the turbo wore and leaked oil that burned and clogged the DPF.

Either way, DPF clogged solid PLUS a dead turbo just before MOT and tax time killed the car.

What gets me is the sludgy oil. Why would anyone skip oil changes for so long that it starts solidifying? Mine wasn't the worst I've seen. Another failure mode is black sludge in an oilway loosened by flushing oil/Slick 50 or bad luck, that blocks a bearing feed hole, then the bearing runs (melts) and seizes.

Oil is the life blood.

About the number of failures your mechanic friend sees--remember that the HDi/TDCi 1.6 is in almost everything. I buy half my bits from the Ford dealer (I tell them it's a Focus) because it's nearer than Citroën.

This time I took all my risks up front, before I rely on the van too much. Oil change, flushing oil, oil change, flushing oil, oil change. Oh, and I cleaned the head while I replaced the cam cover/breather setup. With luck, any sludge I loosened will either cause a failure in the next few weeks (before I rely on the van much) or dissolve away for good in the clean oil.

I just have to change the turbo oil feed pipe for the later version, and trace that oil drip :-)

Roops

#14 Camper Conversions » Choosing a bigger alternator (or 2) » 2024-03-14 01:39:32

roopid
Replies: 1

Has anyone experience of fitting an uprated alternator to the 1.6 HDi 16 engine? Bigger than the 150A one in the parts list, I mean.

I'm trying to work out how to choose a likely replacement.

We're aiming to spend a lot of time parked, which means a larger battery and higher charging current.

The other reason to oversize the alternator is because it turns out that high charging current at low revs is a good way to shorten an alternator's life*--if I run the engine at fast idle, I'm hoping to keep the alternator well below its max output.

*the alternator cooling fan shifts almost no air at idle speed, and in a hot engine compartment, a larger battery will take max output for a longer time.

#15 Re: Maintenance » Came out to find my Mk2 headlights ON! » 2024-03-13 20:14:13

AlvyLad wrote:

Make sure you have a burly mate with you and check behind the passenger seat, if no nasty mean gremlins don't nest tgere.
Happens all the time.  lol

Tee hee. I'll grab the poker from the fireplace and wrap it around the gremlin's head, if I can find him! (An idea I stole from Discworld's Susan Sto Helit)

A friend suggested it could just be water getting into the headlight relay--early this morning it was *persisting* down with rain...

Roops

#16 Re: Maintenance » Oil leaks, crankcase breathers, emissions, and catch cans » 2024-03-13 13:50:51

It's breathing a lot less oil since I replaced the cam cover/separator. I may hack the old one to bits (a mucky job!) to see whether it's clogged with sludge.

Roops

#17 Re: Maintenance » Speedo, Odometer & trip Meter Stopped Working. » 2024-03-13 13:48:13

My first thought is that the sensor (wherever it is--I haven't found mine yet) is going to be more vulnerable to weather and physical damage. So I'd check for corroded or broken wiring near the sensor, then if that doesn't show anything I'd try another sensor.

The good news is that, when everything fails at once, that's usually a sign of a simple fault :-)

Roops

#18 Maintenance » Came out to find my Mk2 headlights ON! » 2024-03-13 10:39:04

roopid
Replies: 2

The key remote doesn't work, so it's nothing to do with that.

What turned the headlights on?

Weird.

Tney can't have been on for long, because they were at full brightness and the engine started. The car had been parked for 11 hours, so there's no way they've been on all night.

Has anyone an idea how this happened, please?

#19 Re: Camper Conversions » Fitting a dual power switch » 2024-03-10 07:07:52

(chuckles)
Hey, 240V hasn't killed me. Yet...

There's even room for an RCBO, so if I ever have a faulty appliance it should trip before I get the full jolt.

I'll try not to test that, though :-)

#20 Maintenance » I think I fitted previous oil filter wrongly! » 2024-03-09 21:28:21

roopid
Replies: 1

I think I may have fitted the first oil filter wrongly!

My Mk2 Dispatch 1.6 needed an oil change *badly* when we picked it up.
So I did, with a new filter.

Then again a week later, because the oil was black like paint on the dipstick.Then again yesterday, with synthetic ACEA C3 oil. The oil looks decent on the dipstick, now.

But as I lined up the locating tab on the filter with the hole in the housing, I realised I had no memory of locating it the first time. (the tab is visible at the bottom of the filter in my pic)

Is it crucial to oil flow, or just to locate the baffle that some filters have built-in to their base? (the filter I removed at the first change had that baffle)
mini_Screenshot_20240309-201446_1.jpeg

#21 Re: Maintenance » Wheel alignment » 2024-03-09 20:28:18

Ugh! Automation like that we could do without!

#22 Re: Maintenance » Wheel alignment » 2024-03-09 17:35:21

I don't know how ESP affects things, but mechanically the issue is that you should have an exactly equal number of turns to the left and right of straight ahead, otherwise your CV joints can be over-articulated at full lock to one side.

In the days of splined steering column and wheel, it was possible to get the wheel at the wrong angle, but on my MK2 it only goes on in one position. So I just want the tracking set straight ahead when the wheel is straight and I'm hoping KwikFit can't get that wrong, because I haven't had it checked adjusted yet.

Roops

#23 Camper Conversions » Fitting a dual power switch » 2024-03-09 17:25:59

roopid
Replies: 3

Wish me luck--I'm fitting one of these to my van soon, and then double-checking. And then triple-checking, because one doesn't ever want to get things back-to front with these!

The idea is that it's manual or automatic to switch from inverter to hookup power when I plug in. Usually they are fast enough that nothing stops as they switch over.

mini_DualPowerSwitchAuto.jpg

#24 Maintenance » Oil leaks, crankcase breathers, emissions, and catch cans » 2024-03-09 17:15:33

roopid
Replies: 4

My Mk 2 1.6 drips oil. It's clearly leaking at the top of the cylinder head. It also sometimes smokes on startup, but not for a few weeks if I take off and wash out the intercooler with Jizer.

tl;dr It's filling up with oil from the crankcase breather, until oil at the bottom is high enough to get carried up into the inlet manifold by airflow.

I'm guessing it's got some blow-by and perhaps I'll get a spare engine from a breaker's yard in future.

But for now I'm looking at the leaks and smoke. The turbo inlet is wet with oil from the crankcase breather, so I'll guess the turbo itself is probably OK. I've ordered a new plastic cam cover with filler cap and its own oil separator, which isn't working (spits oil along with fumes).

Has anyone had experience with the separator getting clogged with gunge, maybe? If it's not clogged, I'll need a catch can to stop crankcase breather oil from reaching the intercooler, I guess.
I daren't take the old one off until the new one arrives, with a new gasket :-)

But are any catch cans, or Oil Air Separators, OK for an MOT test?

And emissions: When idling, the exhaust smells of NOx. (Easy to recognise--I studied chemistry and it's acrid, easily smelled from the driver's seat if the wind is blowing that way. Not nice, and smells similar to nitric acid, because that's what NOx turns to when it hits the water in our nose, throat and lungs).

So that says to me I have good compression, as NOx forms mainly at high temperatures and pressures.

So I'm guessing the EGR is stuck closed (or blanked off), but can anyone confirm? I've never had trouble with a jammed or blocked EGR valve (lucky me) so I don't know for sure.

#25 Re: Maintenance » Buying a new coolant bleeder valve impossible? » 2024-03-09 16:09:33

Follow-up: Guy Perry (Barrow-in-Furness) found it, ordered it and phoned me when it was in. Nearly £10 but much cheaper than warped cylinder head etc. if the old had blown off. Part number 1323V3.

Here's the parts diagram they sent to confirm:-
mini_CitroenDispatchThermostatBleedValve-RadiatorDrainCap-.png

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