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1 Firmware updating.
2 The option to connect it to a lappy/USB port if BT wasn't available.
3 If they cheaped out the ftdi ic what else might they have cheaped out on?
None of these devices will be top notch stuff for the price but should have at least the basic functionality
stated in the descriptions.
The software looks pretty useful though, I've only installed Delphi so far and it appears to run OK on win 10/64
based on a quick test run but will have a play with Autocoms later
I've collected quite a library of OBD software collected from various sources and will run few on my air gapped lappy
I have a few simple VCIs to play with but hoped the Delphi knock off would let me get more in depth access.
While I'm rantin on about this OBD malarkey.
Here's the £105 Launch CRP123 I bought (and returned for refund) to the Ebay seller which did SFA when trying to connect to the old Expert.
The listing suggested it would do so much, but in reality it didn't even connect to the ECU
In case yer wonderin....
basically an FTDI IC is a common interface that converts signals from a high speed USB bus to levels processors can handle.
if you want get in to UARTS RS232 TTL I2C etc, n shit look it up
I've had problems and frustration getting an OBD reader.
The one I order from China got halfway around the world and to the UK
for those useless lazy retards at EVri to screw it all up
No idea where it is now but to be fair to Aliexpress they were prompt
in giving me a refund.
I saw one on Ebay that I bought out of desperation for £55 but its only partly functional.
the hooky software was easy enough to install and apply the keygens to
and it kinda works using Bluetooth and I can get DTC's using it
It came with a USB cable which did nothing so I opened it up and saw there was no FTDI chip on the PCB between the USB port and cpu
Oh FFS!
Further research show the quality of these devices can vary greatly and missing or poor quality knock off IC's are common.
a seller who shows the PCB is said to help choose a better device so be warned if you're in the market for one.
Here my current device and despite the 'no returns' bollox on the listing I reckon I'm fully entitled for a return/refund.
I checked my oil before going out today and see the lock mechanism is simple to access
no need to even remove the grille
My first suspect would be the cable release/catch not retracting properly when released
You'd probably need a helper to pull the lever in the cab a few times as you watch what happens in the engine bay.
BTW I found the grille easy enough to remove on my Expert, remove 2 top screws and pull.
OK thanks chaps
Am I right in assuming one takes the precaution of disconnecting the battery before fiddling about with
airbag related stuff?
Recently I've had the air bag warning light stay on at times
Currently its intermittent but I'll have to look into it at some time especially before the MOT
I do recall some mention of pre tensioners resistors n stuff so I spose I'd better read up on them
any cunning wheezes chaps/chapesses?
This is what I ordered
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002 … 1802V6zchW
Heres a page full of all manner of related stuff which can be a bit bewildering
https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale- … l.search.0
one comment I saw on the software
Works! (Be sure to disable viral protection at installation time and add program path to exceptions. For this, the keygen file should be unpacked into a catalaogue with the exception applied.
I think I'll use my offline lappy, My offline PC I use for CNC runs win7/64 and I often test bed iffy progs form dubious sources on it and none of it has caused problems.
That's not to say one should not use proper precautions of course, I wouldn't run it on a PC or lappy I used
for online banking etc
I just plumped for this one for £35
Its got Delphi ds150e by the looks of it and the cables could be useful when quizzing odd models and
some motorbikes and scoots as all the chinese stuff uses a delphi ecu
whether the software will play nice or not remains to be seen
My bestest lappy runs win 10/64 with security set to over protective paranoid which I'd probably have to disable to set it up
I might stick Win7/64 on the other one and try running it as an offline machine from that.
I recently bought a Launch CRP123 for £105 that didn't want to know and that's gone back for a refund
so if my £35 is wasted that's not as painful.
Most of the OBD stuff on Ebay is chinese made and probably runs copied/bootlegged hardware and firmware so I doubt our low key efforts to keep old bangers running is going to attract any serious attention.
this what I ordered
D? why not say what you use?
Do you mean the ds150E?
Lappys with USB, BT, wifi not a problem I have two, but I want to be sure I'm buying summat that actually works
I see various version of this, some with BT, some with usb, some with various cables.
so some clarification would help here so Im not wasting my time
for those interested this is breakdown of the ACF process
Basically, heat ( circa 80C) and pressure is used to get the conductive particles to align and the adhesive to set.
why not just put the link in the post ?
I cropped and resized it for you
I checked out the Fiat forum and multiecuscan was mentioned so I grabbed it to evaluate it in free mode.
The supported vehicle list wasn't encouraging as the list didnt mention the Scudo JTD
which as I understand is the equivalent of the 2.0 HDI.
I ran the prog plugged it in and couldn't connect but maybe I didn't set it up properly and may try again.
where can get this PSA lexia thing?
Interesting, I've not worked on these vehicles clocks so can't speak from experience
but the vid looks like the same clock as we all have.
I had to laugh at 'pointer motors' which are in fact stepper motors
in the speedo and tacho which do, I'll admit, 'point'
I'd warm the ribbon connectors a wee bit to soften the glue
so that's a hair dryer not a heat gun job, this may also help lift the glue off
If you want a small amount of Acetone, nail varnish remover will probably do
as it's basically Acetone as long as its not mixed with anything else.
Isopropanol/denatured alcohol may do as well but not sure.
The vid doesn't show the reassembly with the new cable
The ribbon connector on the back of the speedo PCB looks easy enough to line up
the contacts,
but I'd suggest you pay special attention when locating the ribbon on the diplay end
as its important to get it correctly located.
To help do this I'd be inclined to cut small strips of masking tape and carefully fix them a smidge outside the outer edges of the old cables location before removing it to ensure the new cable gets fitted in exactly the same position.
Pics would be good
Just been trying to see if there are any stored fault codes on this thing ( 2006 2.0 HDI) with two different OBD scan tools
and got nowt.
My Android tablet using Torque pro talks to the bluetooth scanner gizmo but it says cant talk to the ECU
the other so called pro one goes through a list of protocols on its display but fails to connect.
Bollox!
Is there summat I'm doing wrong or does the system have some unique protocol that requires purpose built kit?
The vans is running fine BTW (touch wood) I just wanted to check.
Its possible the LCD display is breaking down but it may also be due to
bad/oxidised contacts on one of the cable connectors or the ribbon cable connections to the display itself as this is not an unknown problem on quite a few vehicles.
I've had my clocks out but as they were working didn't take that detailed a look.
RE the fuel gauge
Again, bad connections and grounding must always be considered on older vehicles so checking/cleaning them first is a good idea.
As it appears to work intermittently it may be just a poor connection.
Apparently, the connector under the van near the tank is prone to getting the weather in
so that has to be worth checking/cleaning.
If cleaning has no effect then before dismantling stuff I'd probably ground the signal wire to ground (with ignition on) briefly to see if the gauge starts to rise to full.
This test helps decide if the fault is in the gauge or sender.
A can of switch and connector cleaner from say Halfords/Ebay or similar is always part of my tool kit
Good Write up and pics there.
I did similar to my 2006 MK1 a couple of months ago and the cab is now toasty!!
It would help if you say what year/engine you have as while they're all basically the same van,
early to late electrical systems may have some variations.
As Ken says, the odo and fuel gauge are separate faults and the low coolant level warning light may or may not be an issue
I find the one on mine is somewhat sensitive and triggers when its only slightly, not seriously, low.
On the upside, at least it tells me its working properly.
(Deleted)
Hmm............ Sex, drugs and cheap car parts eh?
Shut up and take my money!
While its quite possible, I wouldn't pay for those instructions
as the whole ad has the whiff of snake oil to me and the vehicle in that vid isnt a MK1
Is it doable? yes of course! if money's no object we can start tomorrow.
That's interesting to know
I have a black box too, but apart from remote central locking no working alarm
I do have the wee red led on the dash which flashes when the engine is off, locked or not
One issue that exists and I haven't looked into yet is
when the van is locked and I unlock the door with a key not remote, there is a constant clicking
under the dash which has to be a relay.
I know it had a working alarm at one point as I see the sounder in the engine bay
I may try and disconnect the Texalarm box at some point to see if I can remove it and fit an alarm
I have control over
If my remote fails I'll be driven mad by the bloody clicking!
Grey is often unburnt or poorly combusted fuel which you may get a bit of on initial startup
on older engines, but should clear quickly
if it persists it could be a leaky injector.
Have you or anyone else put WVO ( waste vegetable oil) in it?
I get why folk want to use it but it has a higher viscosity ( thicker) than deisel
and cause problems on some engines unless it's pre treated or pre heated.
As for additives I sometimes put some Millers Ecomax in my deisel tank which is claimed to increase Cetane rating,
improve combustion and clean the fuel system.
Some people rate it highly but I've never really done any empirical testing to see for myself so all I can say is
it doesn't seem to have done any harm.
What engine do you have?
1.9D, 1.9 TD or 2.0TD? I'm assuming one of the first two
Give it an Italian tune up, that'll sort it