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Aha!
Glad you asked that as it reminded me it was the second one and I had some faffery getting one that worked
full stories and link to what I bought to save me typing it out again
on these 2 threads
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … hp?id=2071
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … hp?id=2083
The one I bought from aliexpress that works came in a different case but had the same PCBs inside
and software
It works on both USB and BT but USB seems quicker so I tend to use that over BT
So, to try and sum it all up in as concisely as I can.
it appears you have a DW10 UTED4 / RHK engine which is
a 2.0 litre common rail Turbo-diesel 16-valve with catalyst
Euro 5 compliant
and this variant has an engine mounted lift pump.
( like many of the 1.6 HDI's BTW)
You have still neglected to mention mileage.........
For comparison, my 2006 2.0 HDI (DW10 ATED / RHZ) has an electrical in tank lift pump
which at 135K is running well (fingers crossed)
Reported Fault:
intermittent starting issues, once started it runs ok
Correct?
'Test don't Guess' is my wee mantra when debugging but we all cant help guessing anyway
cos we're all human right?
If it were my vehicle I would get the OBD kit running on it and check fault codes
for clues before committing to spending.
Not all faults trigger an eml light.
I've got various VCIs up to a bootlegged Lexia which runs in WinXP in a VM (I hate it!)
but my favourite for the Expert is a Multidiag pro from Aliexpress running bootlegged Delphi.
This may not get under the hood as far as Lexia, but it gets the codes and some other data
which is all I want most of the time and it works on other vehicles too.
I've used it on my Expert and recently a 2011 Peugeot 308 1.6 HDI and a 2001 1.8 petrol Audi TT to read/clear fault codes.
HDI engines being common rail work at a much higher pressure than the previous indirect injection engines and the pumping process
(like any pumping process) creates heat, hence the need to cool it while returning fuel to the tank to try to keep it within bounds
Personally I wouldn't even bother getting ripped for an original one
and would probably mod a motorcycle oil cooler in for a fraction of the price.
An oil cooler should be capable of handling the higher temps and pressure than say a small radiator
so that's why I'd go in that direction.
I'd try browsing here by checking out sizes, dimensions and fitting that could be suitable
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw= … m570.l1313
let us know so other can benefit from you experience
If you do have to use the van, keep the tank well topped up as this extra mass will help slow down the rise in temperature of the cycling fuel
a low fuel level would heat up way quicker and possibly get it too hot.
Getting put now and again and putting a hand on the tank would help you get an idea
If its too hot touch stop and let in cool down and/or add fuel if you can.
45 degrees C-ish would be OK
Driving moderately in high would help a bit too
If all you want is to get fault codes then the Delphi knock offs will do that
the VCI is available on AliExpress and they usually come with knock off software
that worked on mine and my neighbours Audi TT
It also let me cycle the fuel pump and coolant fan on the Expert
Lexia should allow you to get further 'under the hood' but having to install VMware and Windows XP
( windows XP? FFS!) to use it was a bit of PITA.
The may be some basic BT/USB VCIs that will allow you to do this for all I know.
Hondas PGM/FI system is great I can get fault codes with paper clip!.
I have a dedicated laptop for all my car and bike OBD stuff but these modern units with all in one VCI adapter,
screen and buttons are obviously very convenient to use.
IF THEY WORK !
Before buying I suggest you make sure there is a cast iron returns process just in case.
As for real time monitoring, there are already plug in modules on the market for this
but as above, buyer beware.
Most modern vehicles have OBD/OBD2 but regulations only seem to insist on a basic comms layer
and anything beyond that can be tricky to get at without substantial expenditure
Its bit of a can of worms but have a look at my attempt to get a discussion going on this subject with virtually no response
so I don't bother any more
I've since reverted the down light back to a conventional festoon bulb as
A I found a few in a box so I have plenty of spares
B LEDs are good for working/loading lights but can be somewhat 'cold'.
I've found the dimmer/warmer glow is fine for jumping in and out of the van at night
but it's handy to have the higher intensity leds in the rear for when they're needed
I fitted new door speakers for my Sony Xplod and they work well
but I also bought some 4" Pioneer speakers for another project and made cabinets
but that project was abandoned.
I haven't felt much need to fit these in the van as it's pretty quiet now and I don't think I really need them
I made the cabinets as compact as I could and they're roughly 150mm square and 68mm deep
Any van is a big tin drum so I insulated mine and it's made it much quieter
see in this thread
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … hp?id=1918
I also add deflectors to the doors to cut the wind noise and cruising on the motorway at say 65-70 it's
acceptable and most of the noise seems to come from the tyres and road surface so I don't have to
crank the volume up much to compensate
Yes you do have a lift pump, the type depends on the engine you have which you haven't mentioned
I understand your frustration with the thing, as I've had few nightmare vehicles too
But before throwing away your investment I suggest you check the pump timing is correct and
hasn't slipped to a retarded position which could cause the symptoms you describe.
It shouldn't cost you anything but some time to check.
I cant tell you the procedure exactly as I have a different engine but generally you pin/lock the crank
and camshaft with dowels (or drill bits), then check and/or set the pump timing using the marks
or whatever the manual says.
If you get it running well but you're sick of it, you can at least sell it and get more of your money back
It sounds as if someone has read looked for fault codes, but fault codes only occur under specific conditions
and while they can be very useful, dont alway tell the full story.
I've had fault codes lead me up the garden path at times.
As you can easily force the fault by turning the wheel etc to stall it, that actually helps
believe it or not
It's the intermittent faults that can drive you mad
I'd get my multi channel scope on it to monitor various systems and see if I could spot any sudden drops or spikes when the fault occurs.
But
that's taking the complex route, starting simpler....
I dont know the mileage but do know its 25 years old and all those bells and whistles and electrical gubbins make it a pretty complex machine and electrical connections can degrade due to mechanical wear, oxidisation, rust, heat etc.
Honda PGM-fi is a good system but depends on good clean signals so I suggest checking cleaning as many connectors as you can and just as importantly, good grounding too.
Poor connections and grouding can cause signals to fluctuate and give an ECU conniptions.
After that I'd monitor voltages from standing battery to start and beyond to when the battery voltage gets to and holds close to 14v. you may get some clues from that
Less than 13.5V is hardly charging, more than around 15V on that age of vehicle would concern me
thas enough of me rantin for now 
I see Honda and 2000 and I think auto box but what model and spec would help
petrol? deisel? 2WD? 4WD? stuff like that
I had to use the reverse camera for real for the first time yesterday when backing into a gap between two parked cars and it was actually quite useful.
The pic appears to show I have about 7/8 feet or roughly 2 meters space behind me but that's the wide angle lens affect distorting perspective.
In reality it's 3 feet or a meter at the most and that's after I moved forward a bit
Nonetheless, it proved to be helpful in that situation

I'm looking into getting a better quality screen but the sheer amount of bullshit and lies spouted by sellers
is a PITA to sift through.
A lot of them state 1080p in listings but many screens are in fact way lower resolution than that and I've sent one back already with very shitty feedback.
It was 800x400 pixels which isn't even 720p HD let alone the FHD of true 1080p
Assuming your system is the same as mine, When you check for voltage on the supply wire I suggest you also check
ground continuity on the other, as with no or a bad ground connection, it wont operate.
Yep, wide angle lenses make things look further away than they are and have to be pointed down-ish at least to give
a more accurate depiction of relative distance when backing up which is the most important thing.
My cam allowed me to swap R/L so what I see in the 'mirror' is what you'd get when looking in any car/van mirror
( right is on the right left is on the left) otherwise it gets confusing.
Don't know if its any help but my 2006 2.0HDI has AC and only two wires going to the aircon compressor
One grey ( B079) which carries power from the relay
One green/yellow (M8020) to ground.
According to the diagram, I could bypass the relay by putting 12v on the Grey cable and see if the
electromagnetic clutch operates, or at least check for a voltage
HTH
Incidentally, a faulty pressure switch may prevent the relay powering up the compressor clutch
I had happen on my old Galaxy and the AC guys said it was often that and when changed, it was fine.
I have reverse sensors on the van and I put the wee led/beeper thing in the back for
simplicity as I can tell by testing and observation when I'm reversing close to something.
When the increasing beeps get to a continuous tone, I know I'm =<30Cm from something.
the indicator leds are not that useful IMO and if anything a distraction.
Recently found an old-ish 4.3" TFT display amongst my electronical gubbins and thought I'd make a
rear view 'mirror' out of that and a bought cheap camera ofn that Ebay
I want to declutter and re arrange the dashboard soon and didn't want to fit the screen there,
but the wee black thing on the windscreen got me thinking.
I made a forky thing to slot into it for mounting the screen on so it sits in place of where you'd have
a rear view mirror on a conventional vehicle.

All the cables are laid in and tucked away and I've modded the high level brake light to hold the wee cam
and I'm still using a stock 21w BS15S blub but that can easily be changed for an LED type later.

Image quality on that bog standard TFT screen is ok but not brilliant.
the camera is capable of putting out a much higher resolution than what's currently being displayed.
I'll run as is I for while but if I think its worth it, I may upgrade the screen to a more modern AHD type
which utilises stock RCA cables so it will be simple enough to swap.

With a dual input screen and a second camera, I could easily add the capability to be able switch it to constant rear view mode like a conventional mirror, but will test it out first to get an idea how useful it might be.
This is my first PSA van since a Citroen C15 (1.9D) years ago
and have the 2.0 DW10 in mine so have to rely on pics to know wtf is going on with others
and often have to make guesses.
I had 1.9 TDi VAG engined Galaxy previously and all the info I could ever need was easily obtained
including OBD stuff
If I could have put a van body on that I would have been very happy but swapped it for this one
which with same foot print but higher van body, seemed a good idea at first but I'm not impressed by them.
It's been reliable, but I have done the servicing and maintenance on it so reckon I deserve
some of that.
I hate the fact I've have had to struggle to get info and half decent wiring diagrams.
The 1.9 being bombproof is a fallacy IMO
Yes they're the simplest, but like any other engine, if abused or not maintained properly they'll fail
earlier than a well maintained one.
Also all our vans are old bangers now and suffer age related issues if not maintained and by the time we get them we can only hope they have some life left in them.
Why remove the manifold?
Just selectively back off the injector pipe nuts one at a time
as its ticking over presumably 'lumpily'
if no change, it's probably the bad injector
if it gets worse (lumpier) its a good injector.
Obviously, tighten the nut up again before going to the next injector.
2000 eh?
Why are you asking this in the "Mk3 Vans | 2016 - Present" Forum?
Leave the pump alone, unless there is solid evidence it has been mis timed, leave it be.
It if the pump was wrongly set up, I reckon it would have been obvious after the glow plugs were replaced.
I always check the temp gauge against an IR thermometer so know if I can trust it
'white smoke' from poor combustion can easily be confused with water vapour and vice versa.
so you need to establish what it is exactly.
(It's also possible for it to be both of course)
I can see coolant in your pic so you dont seem to have lost a lot in 2000km
I'd check all hoses carefully when fully warmed up and running
check around the heater too.
Yep, that's the snag, you cant tell by looking what a springs' spring and load rate is.
One would hope the Synergie spring rate would be lower, ie start to deflect at a lower weight than a Dispatch one
but the load rate somewhere close
I wasnt a fan of the stock dome light.
The switch was a cheap nasty wee thing that didn't turn off properly at times
and sometimes had the neighbouts knocking on the door to tell me it was staying on
so I upgraded it to led and used a proper switch.
2 in fact
I also added a 'bright' option for the times I want to work or read in the cab when it was dark.
I already had the switches and bought a pack of 4 30cm led fittings for £20
which I will use in the back later.
The switch/s

Normal operation

Brighter option

The fitting mounted high up on the cross beam, I wont tidy the wiring until I've plumbed in the rear lights
which will all be switched from the cab.
They work as normal with the door switch and dim after a while like the stock bulb, but I wouldn't care if they didn't do the dimmer thing.

Good luck with your alarm.
I hope that you get more help from the people here than I did.
Well you are asking about a MK2 in the MKI section John
for myself I'm still struggling to find decent info on my MK1
so not much help on a MKII
I have often mused over finding/fitting some softer rear springs as it does feel a bit harsh at times.
If I could get a part number or what would be compatible and they weren't too expensive, I'd be sorely tempted as I bet they
make for a nicer ride and lessen the impact that can make the doors rattle
Just did quick Ebay check out of curiosity
£65 a pair? jeez, I'm tempted
What do you reckon to these Ken?