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So 40k miles after a new dpf, pressure sensor, catalyst topup, turbo, intake manifold and injectors, the dpf regens are starting every 120-150 miles instead of 300 +/- 50 miles.
The normal process is for the the ecu to monitor the amount of calculated soot in the dpf, until it hits 5g/l. The regen then runs until this figure drops to 1g/l, and the the heat built up usually clears this down to 0g.
I had noticed that some regens were kicking off at less than 5g/l and then continuing on after the calculated soot had dropped to zero, sometimes for another 15 or 20 minutes.
As time went on the regen were always starting at 2-2.5g/l, so it looked the soot was building up at twice the predicted rate.
So I tried a couple of bottles of Forte injector cleaner, cleaned the MAF sensor, and swapped out the pressure sensor, did a smoke test to locate and fix a small leak at the air intake - no change. Got the injectors pulled and all tested good. Finally got a hydrogen carbon clean, which caused an extra long regen cycle on the way home, for 45 mins.
Time to do some proper analysis, with my new friend gemini, torque pro and several 6km test drives
1) Drive at a steady 50 mph (EGR will be open, MAF will be relatively low), then floor the accelerator.
The moment you floor it, the EGR graph must drop to 0% instantly. As it drops, the MAF graph must jump up cleanly. If the EGR line hesitates, or if the MAF line shows a "dip" or a lazy curve before climbing, your EGR valve is mechanically sticking open under exhaust pressure. This starves the engine of fresh oxygen for a few critical seconds, creating a massive pulse of black soot every time you accelerate.
PASS - The test event occurs at Sample Point 185 (10:23:09). Analysis confirms that the engine ECU and associated mechanical actuators are functioning cleanly with zero abnormal delays or airflow
discrepancies. egr_test_report.pdf
2) Graph Turbo Boost against your O2 Sensor / Lambda. Do a full throttle pull in 3rd gear from 1,500 to 3,500 RPM.
Watch the peak values. On the DW10CD, boost should hit and hold roughly 1.2 to 1.5 bar (1200–1500 mbar above atmospheric). At that exact moment of peak boost, Lambda should settle around 1.15 to 1.25. If your boost is struggling to hit its target, or if Lambda dips hard down toward 1.05 or lower, you have a classic intercooler/boost pipe split. The engine is calculating fuel based on the air the MAF saw, but because that air is leaking out of a split hose, the cylinder runs way too rich.
PASS -- The live data confirms that the turbocharger core (CHRA) is operating at full performance with immediate response times. No intake boost leaks or shaft drag detected.
turbo_diagnostic_report.pdf
3) Check for turbo lag - set and measured values for turbo position/pressure and air mixer plus maf, O2 & rpm
FAIL: Data log analysis confirms a direct causality between air doser butterfly valve sticking, intake air throttling starvation, and transient underboost (turbo lag)
The water drains out into the wheel arches via rubber tubes. These are prone to blocking up
You will get some water out with towels, but stick your hand further on up and it will still be soaking a week later.
So I bought the dehumidifier 10 years ago, when Meaco was the only choice really. These days there seems to be more choice with cheaper Chinese models. Have a search on hotukdeals.com and there will be plenty of advice.
Towels and heaters have little effect. Only way is to lift the mat off the floor as much as possible and run a dehumidifier for a few days

Thanks, do you know which one you have, seems to be many h/w & s/w versions
@RegW
Seems to be a lot of those Multi diagnose pros for sale. Are they all the same?
That is one of the suggestions that has been made. How long has yours been making that noise? Any long term issues other than people asking what that noise is as you walk away?!
It's always done it. I would be more concerned if it stopped doing it.
Hi and welcome to lower end of the forum 
I have the same noise on my 2015 Expert and I always assumed that it was the EGR valve cycling open and closed, to clear carbon and soot that may have accumulated inside the valve.
I think that the sounds come from under the steering wheel. I can see what appears to be a speaker of some sort through the cowling.
Can't find any part numbers though.

Normally you would need Lexia to reset the fluid level. I would expect that tooled up mobile mechanics could do this with their 3rd party readers.
I used 2 x 0.125w 1ohm resistors, with a 2A fuse in series, so that any fault condition would blow the fuse rather than set the resistors on fire.
Once soldered up, covered it in insulation tape and tucked back under the mat.
Easy to get on eBay.

I bought a blank but original new key fob off eBay, thanks for the replies!
A new key fob for 2004? I'd be interested in seeing the listing
Worth checking the micro switches on the pcb, they are easily broken. You can always check if the RF is working with a cheap key fob tester, or a software defined radio setup (if you have the spare time).
Other than that you could buy an old keyfob/pcb off ebay eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/396315200474 I always found it easier to look for C8 or Xantia fobs which are the same.
Lexia can be used to add the remote, but just be aware that you will need the 4 character alpha numeric code that came with the original van to access the key programming pages.
bncomps wrote:That's unlucky! I hope you manage to get the problem sorted sooner rather than later.
At a bit of a loss as to who to try. I will have to get it done before winter though.
Mechanics, like most things, aren't what they used to be.
I was in a similar situation, and eventually chose to go to the dealers. My thinking was that I could leverage off the manufacturers to get a resolution and I would refuse to take it back until it was fixed. Things got so bad that they started to screen out my calls, and several times I contacted to dealership head office to get things moving. Boy did they hate me.
Of course it was expensive to pay for the parts bingo, however I asked for a contribution from Peugeot, and got 25% off the bill, which was something.
Yes been there. I spent more in the first year on my 2015 2.0, that I spent on the MK1 the previous 5 years - and that included the cost of the van. Unfortunately I did not find out about the issue until the first trip to France after spending 3 months on the conversion. The same as you, I was seduced by the upgrades - 130BHP vs 70BHP, aircon, cruise control, (pseudo) AWD and the (tiny) extra clearance from the ground.
In my case the DPF was cracked due to 4 worn injectors clogging it up. This took the best part of a year to get fixed, including the useless dealer technician guessing all the way.
I would suggest that you get hold of something to monitor the DPF regens to avoid getting blocked. Try out FAPLITE in the Amazon App Store, to see if it supports your ECU, before paying for the full version.
Thank you very much for the reply. Oh man, that is annoying. I wanted to test the relay before buying a new AC clutch... Oh well, Maybe it's possible to remove the relay with a soldering iron to test it?
I did see a guy on youtube bypass a relay with an external one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43vBiWbXM2s
Hello, I have a 2007 Mk2 Fiat Scudo.
I am looking for the AC clutch relay. The under bonnet fuse box seems to have a second layer under the top layer of fuses, I can see some relays in there but it looks like a mission to split the fuse box, it's doesn't look like it was designed as a service access. Am I looking in the wrong place? Are the relays in the cabin fuse box passenger side? That's also difficult to access coz they are side on and I can't see what's in there!
I've had the AC re-gassed but then it still wasn't working and I realised the AC clutch isn't spinning. So I want to test if the AC relay's gone before splashing out on a new AC clutch.
Any pointers would be really helpful. Many thanks!!
The relays are not user serviceable - everything is soldered in, you have to replace the whole unit.
Hi all, after some advice and guidance is it legal and all things insurance to fit 215/60R16C on an MPV MK2 TIA
Well that's what I have, as per the label in the driver door frame. 2015 van.
Hello, and thank you for sharing this. Would it be possible to get the header (ECU address) to enter in Torque in order to make these PIDs work? Thanks in advance!
I leave the header blank, and just use the PID eg 21CB8001
I suspect that the pids are unique to the management unit.
My experience would suggest that the base acts as the adapter between the seat and the floor. So each seat will have a specific base sorry to say.
The locks work with one polarity to lock, and the reverse to unlock. The colour of the wires is irrelevant, they are all numbered, if you can read the print. I would suggest trying to trace back from the doorframe contact points.
There’s no tyre pressure sticker on the door frame
Look on the door itself.
This is my 2015 at the top.
At the very top of the jack is a knob that unscrews, and the jack will lift off
Really should not have being doing this today after overindulging at the weekend, but dropped a bolt into the bowels of the engine.
Got the endoscope out and amazingly found it within minutes about 30cm down. Took another 20 mins to get a hold of it.


The optimist in me would say that it's only the last turn that is broken and the spring won't move in transit.
As it happens the AA guy seemed to think it was OK, and had been like that for a while, because the broken ends were rusted.
This despite the photo showing a clean end to the break and that there was a very loud ping when it went.
I wonder if the fact that he was running an hour late and had an hours travel to get home had an influence on this diagnosis.
So he suggested that I drive and he followed, which I refused several times, insisting that I was towed.
Another issue was that the transits that they use are now equipped to tow, rather than calling out a local truck. So I had to call the garage to check I could bring it in 2 days early.