The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

Thanks, do you know which one you have, seems to be many h/w & s/w versions

It's always done it. I would be more concerned if it stopped doing it.

I think that the sounds come from under the steering wheel. I can see what appears to be a speaker of some sort through the cowling.
Can't find any part numbers though.

I used 2 x 0.125w 1ohm resistors, with a 2A fuse in series, so that any fault condition would blow the fuse rather than set the resistors on fire.
Once soldered up, covered it in insulation tape and tucked back under the mat.
Easy to get on eBay.

Worth checking the micro switches on the pcb, they are easily broken. You can always check if the RF is working with a cheap key fob tester, or a software defined radio setup (if you have the spare time).
Other than that you could buy an old keyfob/pcb off ebay eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/396315200474 I always found it easier to look for C8 or Xantia fobs which are the same.
Lexia can be used to add the remote, but just be aware that you will need the 4 character alpha numeric code that came with the original van to access the key programming pages.

Yes been there. I spent more in the first year on my 2015 2.0, that I spent on the MK1 the previous 5 years - and that included the cost of the van. Unfortunately I did not find out about the issue until the first trip to France after spending 3 months on the conversion. The same as you, I was seduced by the upgrades - 130BHP vs 70BHP, aircon, cruise control, (pseudo) AWD and the (tiny) extra clearance from the ground.
In my case the DPF was cracked due to 4 worn injectors clogging it up. This took the best part of a year to get fixed, including the useless dealer technician guessing all the way.
I would suggest that you get hold of something to monitor the DPF regens to avoid getting blocked. Try out FAPLITE in the Amazon App Store, to see if it supports your ECU, before paying for the full version.

The relays are not user serviceable - everything is soldered in, you have to replace the whole unit.

I leave the header blank, and just use the PID eg 21CB8001
I suspect that the pids are unique to the management unit.

The locks work with one polarity to lock, and the reverse to unlock. The colour of the wires is irrelevant, they are all numbered, if you can read the print. I would suggest trying to trace back from the doorframe contact points.

This is my 2015 at the top.

I guess the danger is that the broken bit shifts and falls off.
Breakdown is probably the way to go.