The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

While I was throwing away the old shoes, springs, etc from where I had abandoned them on the garage floor, I pulled the old adjusters out of the shoes and removed the springs. Having a play around with them, I confirm they work exactly as in your video, ie. as the handbrake lever in drum moves when handbrake applied, the adjuster gets squeezed and winds the wheel around one click with a point on the spring steel actually turning the wheel .

In fact I'm glad I replaced the adjusters along with everything else. I hadn't realised when I did the job a few weeks ago, that one of the adjusters was actually broken. When I removed it from where it locates between the shoes, the threaded part fell out of the body of the adjuster. The spring on the back of the adjuster was broken, and as such the adjuster wouldn't have been able to adjust anything on that drum.

Didn't find it too bad, even though had to do the cylinders as well as they were both leaking. Bought a Ferodo kit with shoes, springs, adjusters which were all pre-assembled, so made the job a fair bit easier. Cylinders were included in the kit too. Must admit if I had just been changing just the shoes it would have been a lot more of a faff having to fit the springs myself.

Personally, I've done far worse jobs and at least it can all be done without lying on your back from underneath. Or was it just because you had to visit ECP that made it so nightmareish?     

Sorry to hijack, but can anyone tell me about the reconnection process please?

Few years ago my key fob stopped working. Tried a new battery, but still nothing. Didn't realise there were poss other steps I should have taken to set up the remote locking.

I've been using the key in the locks for several years now without problems. Is there anything else I should be checking or trying?

That's easy. Getting the correct frame is just a case of ordering for the correct year. 2002 onwards vans have different sized holes at end of frame arms and slightly different torque rod bracket. See Ebay for different subframes.

Update>>>>

Recently I ordered the correct shaft with gear on end that fits into the new speed sensor from company in Italy. It has the corrrect square hole in the end that fits the square drive up inside the new Febi sensor. Yesterday I went back for the third time to the rent a a ramp place in Cheltenham and fitted the new sensor and it's new shaft and topped up the gearbox oil with the same quantity that came out while old sensor was removed from hole in diff. Went without a hitch and that's how it could have gone on day one, if the manufacturers hadn't slightly altered a part that you don't find out about until you pull things apart and oil is draining out.

What gets me, is after extensive Googling, I can find no reference to there being any changes to this part or alternatives being available.

What with the fiasco recently with the cv boot (I gave that a good inspection too while up on the ramp and can report that boot number 7 is still in place and fastened) which is quite a basic job, plus a seemingly routine sensor swap, this van has certainly tried my patience. Still, it's been completely reliable over my 17 years of ownership, so not bad overall.

Having to drive from Bristol to Cheltenham to the rent-a-ramp place and pay to use ramp each time - probably would have been cheaper to take it to main stealer and get them to replace sensor. But once you start, you're committed (or perhaps I should be after this!). You live and learn!

As I was fitting the sensor, I still had the nagging doubt that after all this, it still might be something else at fault. However, as I drove away from the ramp garage, the speedo needle came to life to my great relief. For the first time since March, I now have a working speedo, odometer and trip meter. The slight hesitancy/jerkiness in low gears at lower speeds has now disappeared and engine runs perfectly as I assume the ECU is now getting some info from the new working sensor that it needs. I'm hoping my MPG will now go back up a bit as it seemed to drop since the  sensor went out.

I now can claim to be an expert on Scudo/Expert/Dispatch speed sensors.   

Thanks to everyone for your help and advice. Until the next time.................

Doing some more reading on the subject, it looks like the gear in the diff that drives the sensor gear shaft can become detached. One thing I didn't check. Suppose when I go back to finish sensor job, I should put my finger in the hole in diff and see if all is well? Bit like a prostate examination at the quack's.   

Had a look at the shaft in the link. Though it is the same part number, it is different from mine as mine has a recess in end of shaft - one in photo has what look like a raised plastic insert.

I'll have a good look up inside the sensor hole in case maybe there's something stuck up there.

This is what it looks like inside the wrong Febi part, with a square drive up inside.

Yes, that's the problem I have. Access is very difficult without it up on a 2 poster. Then there's the loss of geabox oil each time it's removed.

I may soon be back to you for more details on how to do the pin 9 test, such as exactly which LED/resistor I would need and where to source, how to find pin 9, how to attach LED, etc, etc. I'm not really knowlegeable on these things.

I seem to remember clock removal being a bit of a pain when I replaced some of the small bulbs that illuminated the dials few years ago. Having to remove lower dash panels, trying to reach that odd trumpet screw under left side of binnacle.

I'm thinking it's not the clocks that are at fault. This is because at the same time as the speedo, odometer and trip stopped working, I started getting slight rough running/hesitancy in lower gears at lower speeds. Also I think my MPG dropped. This leads me to think that the ECU isn't getting the correct info to run engine properly.

Thanks again Reg, useful info. Not sure if you could actually dismantle the part, it's moulded plastic and bonded together.

I just hope I wasn't rushing yesterday at the garage, and there isn't actually a square drive which may have snapped off inside the sensor and poss be stuck in the end of the metal shaft. Now wish I'd just bunged the new sensor in without shaft and had the old sensor and shaft in front of me to thoroughly inspect in the cold light of day. Problem is I can't easily access it on home ramps and I lose a lot of gearbox oil each time the sensor is pulled out.

So up to Cheltenham on Monday to put it on ramps and fish out the old sensor and shaft and temporarily fit the new sensor. Then bring it all home to inspect and see what's going on. Crazy waste of time!

Thanks Reg. Didn't know there were any other Bristolians on here.

The shaft/gear - part number 1 in diagram - doesn't have a square hole in the end of it. The end of the shaft that goes into sensor is solid, nothing to fit over a square drive. Don't know how it drives the pulser, maybe it's magentic or hall sensor that detects the spinning shaft.

Wish I had my camera with me when I pulled it out.

Maybe this one - no square drive inside -

https://www.onbuy.com/gb/p/new-engine-r … p61884823/