The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

Get help & share your Citroen Dispatch (Jumpy) | Peugeot Expert | Fiat Scudo tips

You are not logged in.

#1 Re: Maintenance » EGR VALVE FIX » 2020-09-26 21:37:07

Fascinating thread. Is this something worth doing on the 2000 HDi/Jtd too? Or does it set off the warning light?

#2 Re: Maintenance » EGR VALVE FIX » 2020-09-26 21:32:38

AB_70 wrote:

A few blokes hoses later

Oooh matron!!!!

I hope you meant 'blocked'?   wink

#3 Re: Maintenance » How To Remove Headlights - 04 Facelift Model? » 2020-09-26 20:54:30

I changed my headlights today - and what a faff (ie. having to remove whole bumper) for one 10mm bolt at the bottom of the headlight.    sad

Took off the n/s wheel to give extra room to work and found I didn't really need to so left the o/s wheel on. Nuts/bolts that I thought would be seized were ok, and one of the ones that i thought would be the easiest (one of the 2 nuts that hold the top of the rad grille on) was seized and took quite a bit of persuading. Because it screws into the slam panel which is a box section, I couldn't get any WD40 on the thread to help. Started pulling the bumper off then found it was still attached along it's bottom lip to the front crossmember with the cable ties I put on to stop it flapping around. Luckily I had my snips close to hand as I supported the weight of the bumper.

Thanks for your guide to removal, John. No real problems even if the washer resevoir makes it a bit tight to get the two 13mm nuts off on the o/s. Also I found a couple more bolts that hold the bumper on making it 8 in total. There's 2x torx head bolts that reveal themselves when the grille is off - between the headlights.

The only problem I have after fitting the Taiwanese looky-likey headlights from Germany concerns the adjuster motors. I turned the motors slightly to release them from the back of the headlight, then had to pull hard to get the ball on the actuating rod out of the slot where it moves the headlight up and down. But I can't get the ball to push into the slot on the new lights. I even tried turning the headlight adjuster up to the highest number to make the actuating rod stick out from the body of the motor, but it still wouldn't push in. Anyone have any experience with these?

#4 Re: General Discussion » Does Your Van Have Locks On Rear Doors? » 2020-09-14 13:57:00

I've never looked. It's just rubber grommets in the lock holes of the sliding doors and a lock in the back door that has never turned since I bought the van when it was 3 years old.

Looks like someone has removed or disabled the rear locks for load security. Pointless really, as there was only the small ladder type bulkhead behind driver when I bought it.

#6 Camper Conversions » Scudo Nu Ventur Rio » 2020-09-13 21:32:32

Replies: 0

Never seen one of these anywhere before. What a great little van - like a Tardis, how do they fit all the equipment including a bathroom into something that seems little bigger than a standard van? Can't be too much wider than box van as it has the standard door mirrors.

Only one thing would put me off - head height. I'm 6' 4".

#7 General Discussion » Does Your Van Have Locks On Rear Doors? » 2020-09-13 15:18:42

Replies: 4

Just wondering if the previous owner had removed the locks on the rear doors of my 2004 Scudo, or they were never fitted at all. The sliding doors have rubber blanking grommets where a lock would go and the rear door has a keyhole where the key fits in, but doesn't turn.

Just curious if this is what all these vans are like.

#8 Re: General Discussion » Best £6.50 I've spent for quite a while. » 2020-09-13 15:07:51

unter wrote:

Are you paid to endorse those pliers?
are you the seller?
why do you want your oil filtered?

Thanks for your questions, Munter.

I don't want my oil filtered any more. That's why I was taking the filter off.

Come on, keep up!

#9 General Discussion » Best £6.50 I've spent for quite a while. » 2020-09-12 14:48:53

Replies: 3

Access to the oil filters on our vans is a bit tight - well it is on my 2.0 Jtd/HDi. Suppose the same on the 1.9. A Draper filter strap type remover that fits on a socket ratchet is useless. Used to have to resort to a strap wrench, but the thing would slip about 20 times before biting as access for the tool and hands are tight.

Lashed out a whole £6.50 on ebay, inc. delivery, to get new oil filter pliers. clamped it on, squeezed the handles and turned - the old filter turned straight away. No swearing, no straining. Should have done it years ago!    smile … 2749.l2649

#10 Re: Maintenance » Consequence of a timing belt snapping » 2020-09-11 07:33:24

Jumpy-Joe wrote:

Do you happen to know the interval of timing belt replacing?

I believe approx 5 to 6 years or 50,000 ish miles - whichever comes first. Just changed mine after 6 years and 12,000 miles. Old one had only done low miles, but rubber degrades over time. Always buy quality Gates or Dayco belts.

As the saying goes - belts are cheap, engines are expensive.

Had a couple of lucky escapes over the years. The belt snapped on my 1.6 Montego but luckily these weren't interference engines so no components collided and no damage done. Couple of years later, going down to Devon in brother's 1.8 Sierra and engine started making strange noises and running rough. Turned out the belt's tensioner or idler (can't remember which) had started failing and the belt jumped a couple of teeth. Luckily no damage to engine this time either.

#11 Re: Maintenance » What is the large, empty rad hose type pipe? Intercooler? » 2020-09-05 13:30:24

Yes, late 80s, early 90s that 'i' on the boot lid was the thing to have. Advertising the latest gizmos on the back of cars isn't new. In early 60s they put a small badge in the middle of MK 2 Jags to let people know it was fitted with new fangled disc brakes.

Suppose it was partly advertising and also to let people know that the Jag could stop a lot quicker than you would think.


#12 Re: Maintenance » How To Remove Headlights - 04 Facelift Model? » 2020-09-05 12:28:23

Great, thanks John. Knew you would come to the rescue. Pain having to take bumper off just for one headlight bolt. Got fogs in lower corners of bumper too, so will need to disconnect.

Oh well, as you say, only 4 nuts and bolts to worry about.

#13 Re: General Discussion » Peugeot expert interior lighting » 2020-09-05 12:24:27

kenbw2 wrote:
woodbine wrote:
Casper wrote:

Just take a feed from the front door switch.

As an aside, where are the front door switches? I've never seen them, but there must be some.

It's worth noting that the switch switches the negative/ground.

From what I remember there's one positive in the light, and two negatives

Thanks for the pic, Ken. Strangely my 04 Scudo doesn't have switches there. Must be somewhere because the light comes on when the front doors are opened. Never been able to find them. Maybe it's witchcraft!   smile

#14 Maintenance » How To Remove Headlights - 04 Facelift Model? » 2020-09-04 01:01:36

Replies: 3

May have to change my headlights on 2004 model to ones for LHD vehicle to use in Europe. Need to know how to remove the headlights. Can see the top two bolts no problem, but does the bumper have to come off for the bottom bolt? If yes, how do I undo the bumper?

Thanks for any advice.

#15 Re: General Discussion » Peugeot expert interior lighting » 2020-09-03 21:46:50

Casper wrote:

Just take a feed from the front door switch.

As an aside, where are the front door switches? I've never seen them, but there must be some.

#16 Re: General Discussion » Peugeot expert interior lighting » 2020-09-03 21:34:26

Hi Paul, and welcome to the forum.

My 2004 Scudo has a working light in the back, but as far as I can tell they were never fitted with door switches. You have to turn the light on and off manually by pressing one end of the lens. Bit crap really.. One day I may get around to fitting door switches.

I still have the original light in back which is quite dim. Does anyone have any recommendations for anything better?

#17 Re: Maintenance » What is the large, empty rad hose type pipe? Intercooler? » 2020-09-03 21:22:14

Thanks John. Never really contemplated intercoolers. Heard of them, used to see it written in big letters on the front of Volvo lorries 'TURBO INTERCOOLER'. Their 740/760 range of cars used to have 'INTERCOOLER' on the boot. Not anymore though as I suppose having a turbo and intercooler isn't big news these days.

Anyway I digress. This is my first oil burner and a few things are still a mystery. Thanks for enlightening me.

#18 Maintenance » What is the large, empty rad hose type pipe? Intercooler? » 2020-09-01 17:15:32

Replies: 5

I have just changed the antifreeze on my Scudo 2.0 Jtd. To get to the clip that releases the bottom hose from bottom offside end of rad, I had to remove another rubber pipe above it. This pipe was bigger bore than the rad hoses, and had a large jubilee clip holding it onto the stub. This larger rubber pipe then turns through 90 degrees and then joins a plastic pipe which runs along behind the bottom of the rad, before it joins to another 90 degree rubber hose which attaches to a plastic structure under the engine near bottom of bell housing.

What is this for? Is it for the intercooler? Anyway, I disconnected this unknown ppipe from both ends using the jubilee at each end. As I undid the bell housing end of it and pulled the rubber hose off the plastic structure, a few drips of oil came out. Hardly anything. Is ithis normal? Should this pipe be empty apart from a few drips of oil?

Hope this all makes sense and one of the experts can enlighten me.

#19 Re: General Discussion » Air Conditioning! retro fitting, questions, and tips » 2020-08-31 19:32:05

OK, thanks John. Hopefully won't need topping up for a while. Think they reckon that a/c systems lose approx 10% of their refrigerant p.a. Don't know how true this is.

Also need to add a correction. The garage said the middle rubber section of the longest a/c hose chafed through on the gearbox. Had my air filter box off today and the middle section of rubber hose actually sits hard up against the top of the n/side engine mount. So not rubbing on the gearbox, but the mount. So if anyone has one of our vans with a/c you may want to have a look at that section of hose behind battery, as it's a leak waiting to happen. When the garage re-installed that long hose, I got them to wrap a thick piece of rubber hose around the outside of it, so it's between the a/c hose and engine mount. It's held on with a couple of cable ties. Belt and braces!

#20 Re: General Discussion » Repair Options For Sill Rust » 2020-08-29 17:16:51

All done. Reasonably pleased with it. Few lines in the filler skim on the o/s rear repair, but the two ends of n/s sill are much better. According to the bloke who did the work, the o/s rear was really bad as seen from the large hole in the first post. The two ends of the n/s sill weren't too bad. He showed me the metal he cut out from the outer sills where the thick stonechip paint had bubbled but you couldn't see the holes because of the thick, flexible coat of stonechip paint.

All I can say is originally this metal is quite thin anyway, but when it had a layer of rust over it's inside surface it has no strength at all. You could bend it with zero effort and all that was holding it together was the coating of stonechip. If you have bubbling on the ends of the sills, there's not much strength there.

I impressed on the repairer that having strong repairs was the most important thing as it's a structural area and jacking point. The o/s rear repair can be seen in the last two photos. When he cut all the bad metal out, he found that the jacking piece that goes up inside sill was sound, but there was very little good metal around it. He put in thicker gauge metal. In the last 2 pics you can see he welded in a legth of heavy angle iron into the inner sill bottom - you can see from the straight edge.

Get the impression he wished he's charged more as there was more work than he thought. All in all, I think £360 was good if I can get another few years out of the van as there's not any rot anywhere else.


#21 Re: General Discussion » Converting Headlights For Europe? » 2020-08-28 20:22:59

Thanks again, OAT. Those would be a great bargain, except they're for pre-facelift vans. Mine's a 2004 facelift.

Out of interest, do you know how the headlights come out. Had a very quick look the other day, and saw the two bolts on top. Is there another bolt underneath? If yes, do I go around the back to unscrew?

#22 Re: General Discussion » So how does this work ....(Part Two) » 2020-08-28 17:13:21

I reckon it's a very late, end of the line facelift model - because of the rub strips down the side that early versions didn't  have. Then it's had a bump at the front, and rebuilt with bonnet and grille from a pre-facelift donor vehicle.

That's my theory, anyway.

#23 Re: General Discussion » Converting Headlights For Europe? » 2020-08-28 15:00:28

Thanks to both for your replies.

Vaz - that video link was good. Nexen all season or winter are recommended budget, but Nokian even better.

OAT - Yes, tyres are a minefield. Unless I've got this wrong, the headlight in your link is a single light at approx £60 plus £13 for post = approx £73 for one light. In my link, it's £111 for two lights, no postage = £55 each light and you get the bulbs thrown in too. Unless I've got the wrong end of the stick.    hmm

#24 Re: General Discussion » Converting Headlights For Europe? » 2020-08-24 16:45:13

Thanks for the info, Vaz. I'm clueless re. winter tyres. Are your mud n snows all season or winter tyres. How well do a/s tyres cope with snow?

I thought about Toyo all seasons which seem good value. … p=R-350664

#25 Re: General Discussion » Converting Headlights For Europe? » 2020-08-24 15:00:26

Thanks OAT. Maybe these are better - £111 for a pair inc. new bulbs and postage. … 3531606647

Maybe good idea to start looking for 4 good used steel 15" wheels so I can get some winter tyres fitted to them.

Board footer