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I don't know the solution to your problem, but I have the same model, same year. The housings on these filters don't seem to be a very good design.
Took it in for a service some time ago, and was leaking on the way home. Went back to garage and mechanic tried everything to stop it, but no luck. In the end, he rummaged around in the bin and found the old filter's seal. He swapped the old seal for the new one and all was well.
Next time I took van for service, I reminded him of this and asked him to keep the old seal in the housing when he changed the filter. Still leak free 14 months on. Maybe these filter housings prefer some seals to others. Good luck!
Well I still have the original Placcy Fiat hubcaps on my 2004 Scudo - and I'm sticking with them.
Front ones are getting a bit battle scarred from run ins with kerbs over the years. Can't believe I still have the set and they haven't self destructed or flow off by now.
Saw a post recently that seemed to suggest that some replacement PAS hoses are getting hard to find. Was wondering what other parts are getting scarce for our vehicles? And what is parts availability like from Fiat/Peugeot/Citroen dealers?
Any parts worth stockpiling?
My Scudo has the original CD player, and it very rarely plays CDs. Only occasionally will it play one or two tracks on one before giving up.
Hardly surprising when they stuck a Fiat badge on the player. 
I've heard of brake compensators like the one on the inner wing of my early Carlton, but never heard of an LPV that actually varies rear braking pressure due to pressure on a lever according to load carried. I do some of my own maintenance, and as I didn't know this valve existed, it sounds like it needs lubricating.
I very rarely carry heavy loads, so I suppose that the valve hasn't had a lot of use. Bearing in mind that I have owned my van for over 12 years and never paid the LPV any attention - will it still be OK? Or am I worrying about nothing and if it passes the MOT every year it must be OK?
Finally got around to fixing my non functioning odometer/mileometer. It was the bulb behind the odometer that had blown and was no longer back-lighting the LED digits.
The method I used was slightly different from the suggestions above and seemed a bit easier than removing the right hand vent. I was worried I might break it when I levered it out. My method -
Remove the 2 torx screws from s/column cowl and remove upper and lower parts of cowl. Slide off plastic collar from around ignition barrel and let it dangle on the wire attached to it (don't know what this collar is for, maybe communicates with key for security system??) If your column is adjustable, putting it at the highest setting makes things easier to reach the trumpet screw. Use a long torx screwdriver to remove the small plastic trumpet and screw that is above and to the right of the steering column. This secures the bottom of the instruments surround.
Remove the 3 torx screws holding vents to left of instruments and remove vents. Remove 2 torx surround screws from above instruments and remove surround. Remove 3 torx screws holding instrument cluster, and carefully remove cluster by moving it towards you. There is enough slack on the cluster's wires to be able to change the 286 capless bulb without disconnecting.
Hope this helps someone, and thanks to all who took the time to give their help and advice. Job was quite easy - only fiddly bit was getting the spring clip on the bottom column cowl to locate onto the metal bracket under column.
Thanks to Tiree and Casper. Will have a go and see how I get on.
Thanks for your reply Tiree. Will pop the column shroud off. Doesn't look like there much room to get a hand in there to undo things. As the column is adjustable, I suppose dropping it to lowest position may make it easier.
"had his clocks off a few times ". Ooh Matron!! 
Next problem. And not for the first time, I'm finding that jobs that seemed easy on cars some years ago are a ball ache on the Scudo.
The mileometer/odometer has suddenly gone blank. I can still just about see the mileage if I shine a torch on it, so I know it's not completely dead. I'm reliably informed there's a bulb behind it that needs replacing. So need to remove instruments.
Seems mostly straightforward, but I'm unsure how to remove the black plastic surround that needs to come off before I can unscrew the instruments. There are two torx screws above the instruments and three more around the vents to the left of the instruments. Apparently there's one more below the dash to release the bottom of the surround. I think this fixing is a trumpet. Which is the best way to reach and unscrew this lower fixing.
Thanks for any help and advice.
Thanks again Casper.
Only thing is, mine's the 2.0. The hose comes in from the rear, not side. I'll have to try opening it up to see how much access there is to get new filter in.
This mine. You can see the MAF plug I was on about just in front of the brake fluid reservoir. Not much slack on the wires, and the plug doesn't seem to want to come off easily.


Thanks for your answer, Casper. That makes sense, should be able to open the lid enough after removing hose.
Out of interest - I couldn't see any obvious way to take the MAF connector off side of filter box. Must be a special way to disconnect. When you refer to 'block connector', do you mean the connector on side of filter box - or is there a connector further down the wire, maybe in area under battery?
Hello to all. Not been on for a while. Would appreciate a bit of advice. I have an old shape Scudo 2.0 Jtd Dynamic 2004 (54). I want to change the air filter, and it seems simple - just 4 screws on the filter box lid.
However, there are a couple of things attached to the box lid, and I want to ask if they need to be removed as they may not allow the lid to be raised high enough to swap the filter. First is the ridged hose at the rear of the box that feeds the filtered air to the engine. Will the lid lift high enough without removing this hose?
Secondly is an electrical connection on the nearside of the filter lid. Does this connector need to be removed to allow the box lid to lift high enough to swap the filter? I tried pressing and pulling the connector, but there seems to be no obvious way to disconnect it. There doesn't seem to be a lot of slack on the wires to the connector.
I haven't tried opening the filter box up yet to see if the lid needs one or more of the items I mention to be disconnected. Just thought I would ask so I'm not guessing. Thanks for any advice.
Looks smart, especially for its age. And amazed to see a new member not from Scotland!
Tell us a bit about the trips you've taken it on, and what you've done inside. I see a cooker on a wooden base.
How's it been mechanically, tell us of your previous woes and successes
Thanks Ken, she's not too bad. And I'm definitely not from bonny Scotland, only Devon and Cornwall is further south than where I am.
The Scudo's very straight and only one small rust scab. Do tend to find these don't rust much, though those north of the border may disagree. All original paint except the top half of o/s sliding door. Bought her in mid 2007, just before first MOT was due. Amazingly, I've had her MOT'd at the same place and she's never failed an MOT. The odd advisory, but always sorted before next MOT.
95K on the clock and original pretty much all main mechanics are original. Early on, had to replace a leaking combined hose and metal pipe from PAS reservoir to rack. Had a slightly worrying one last year. Parked van on drive and next morning she wouldn't move - one front wheel locked solid. The spring had broken and slid down the strut jamming itself against inner wall of tyre. Luckily it hadn't touched brake pipes or the brake pad wear sensor wire. Had to put a new spring on myself on the drive as it's narrow and difficult access. No way to tow it out.
Wasn't difficult to change the spring except for one thing I didn't know. I just couldn't get the strut to fit back in, even levering it. Didn't seem to be enough room to get it into turret at top and bottom mounting. Then a mate told me to take the weight off the other front wheel, which I had on the ground. Apparently jacking the other front wheel to take the weight off of it takes the twist out of the roll bar and allowed the strut to fit in. So, need the weight off of both front wheels if changing a strut.
Apart from that, just been service stuff, pads, shoes, exhausts, etc. I bought the van from Kent and the previous company owner gave me all the old main dealer receipts and I was amazed at the amount of money the dealers screw out of the first owners of vehicles. Was several thousand, and every time it went in for services, etc they went to town on it, replacing all sorts of stuff. I've hardly spent a fraction in eleven years of what they spent on an almost new van. Dealers must screw company owners in particular.
Have done regular camping trips, Somerset, Devon, Cornwall, Lake District. Few runs over channel to Brittany. Friend has recently moved to Czech Republic, so hope to take her over there maybe next year.
The van's original apart from bulkhead, Van Vault and limo black tinting
on rear door glass. It's ply lined, so I think that's the ply on the floor you can see below the stove. It's only a camping cooker, not fitted to van.
That's pretty much it really. Think I'll keep her until she falls apart. I'm quite tall and I really like the high seating position. Don't like the newer vans with all the DPF and emissions stuff - these engines seem bullet proof with regular oil and filter changes. Wouldn't know what to change it for.
If you want to know anything else, please ask.
I also own a Carlton 2200 CDi 1986(D) - last of the old shape, not the more modern jelly mould shape.
I just dont think there is many left on the Fiat forum who have one of these vans. Still handy for the archive and manual download though. Rather than that ugly bit wood what will rot over time could you not have used a but angle iron or stainless along the top to bolt down then added awning tracking to the outwards facing side. The canopy you just stitch awning beading along the edge. Seconds to feed into the track.
Hi Casper
Yes, still some useful archives on FF, and that's where I learnt about the Fiat Eper parts info.
The ugly bit of wood is only bolted on to a couple of the roof rack mount points when I go camping. When not camping it lives in the garage so won't rot. There's no track on this awning, it's just a basic Ebay one with a few metal eyes on the side that joins the wood. I just put a few screws in the wood, and the eyes fit onto these. The poles and guy ropes keep it all taught and in place.
Just wanted to say hello to everyone. My van is a Scudo 2.0 Jtd Dynamic (AC, leccy windows and mirrors, fogs, etc
) in grey/silver. I've owned it for 11 years. It's standard apart from the fitted bulkhead and Van Vault.
I'm a plumber in Bristol and use my Scudo mostly for work, but take it camping too. It's not actually converted, I still sleep in a tent next to it, but put a strip of timber along one side of the roof and bolt it to the captive roof rack threaded nuts and fix an awning and poles to it.
Glad I found this site, because although it's been very reliable, when I've had the occasional problem and asked on Fiat Forum I usually get zero response. Probably more of a car forum. Now I've found somewhere where all the variants of these vans come together, I will be able to find and share info.
