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Interestingly, that airflow door that I photographed does not control the cabin temperature. I managed to break the plastic arm that turns the door while I was fiddling around with the heater box, and in spite of that the temperature knob on my dash works fine. I can control hot or cold air into the cab. Perhaps the door is for using the AC. Shall find that out in summer!
Have written a brief report on how I changed the heater matrix. Got nice warm heating in the van again now.
I recently had to change my heater matrix because it was blocked. When I turned the heating on in the van, it would blow tepid air into the cab even when the engine was at 90C. I figured it was a problem with the heater matrix rather than the thermostat or coolant, because the engine was staying at the right temperature and the flow and return pipes to the heater matrix were getting hot. I managed to reach into the heater box and feel that the heater matrix itself was cold. More info on Reddit. Here are some photos from me changing the part. The vehicle is a 2018 Peugeot Expert mk3 van.
For starters, you can reach the heater matrix from the passenger footwell without removing any parts. This is useful for feeling the pipes etc, but there isn't enough space to actually remove the matrix. For that, you need to take out a huge amount of dash. Around 10 panels. The part that I'm pulling off in the photo below has a narrow plastic loop that goes behind the gear stick assembly. To get this off properly, you would have to briefly remove that, but instead I just cut through the plastic loop with some snips. Bit of a bodge, but I don't think the plastic loop was doing anything important. The red circle in the photo shows the heater matrix location.

Here's a photo of the heater box with enough dash panels removed to see it properly.

Here's a close-up, showing the two black clips that secured the flow & return pipes to the heater matrix. You need to remove these clips. I found that a jamming a flat-head screwdriver in there and twisting did the job. If you intend to reuse the clips then of course be careful. Fortunately, the replacement heater matrix that I bought came with new clips.

Now would be a good time to mention the importance of doing this job when your coolant is cold and your coolant system is de-pressurised. I was very stupid and did this just after driving, so I got a face full of warm coolant when the pipes came off. Fortunately, it had only been a short drive. Had it been a long drive and the coolant been hot rather than warm, I would be in hospital. Embarassing. If you want to check that your coolant system is de-pressurised, you can undo the bleed screw, which is found on the heater matrix pipes as they go through the fire wall, on the engine bay side.

In case you're struggling to get those clips off, this photo shows how they are held together.

Finally, you can push the heater matrix pipes out of the way and pull out the matrix. There are no fastenings holding it into the heater box, so it slides out easily. The difficult bit here is pushing the pipes out of the way while simultaneously pulling the matrix. The pipes are quite stiff.

And lastly, in case anyone is interested, here are some pics showing how the heat control door works. This is the door that the heater box moves to control the temperature of air blown into the cab. I tried to turn these into a gif so you could see it moving, but I think the forum doesn't like gifs. In these pics, I have removed the heater matrix and the little 'viewing' panel in the side of the heater box. When the blend door is in one position, all air is forced through where the heater matrix would be. When the blend door is in the other position, air is forced over the AC matrix, which is positioned further back in the heater box and barely visible in these photos.


In case anyone reads this, we decided that removing the fuel tank would be an awful job (especially without a lift), so we strapped a separate diesel tank to the inside of the back door. Diesel is yellow, so everyone asks if its full of piss. Otherwise great.
I am changing the heater matrix on my own 2018 Peugeot Expert today. I can write-up a report and post some pics when I'm done if that would be useful? For now, I'm still tearing away dash panels. You can see the matrix by sticking your head in the footwell, but you have to remove all of this if you actually wanna remove it. In the meantime, I have already posted some pics of the heater housing on Reddit and there are some nice pics of the whole assembly here.
However, as Ken already said, I would have thought that a faulty (blocked) heater matrix would stop heat from blowing on both sides of your van, since there is only one heater matrix and it serves both the driver & passenger sides.

I'm using 60A midi link fuses too, although my DC-DC charger runs at only 30A. Shall post back here if my fuses melt. Frustratingly, I wasn't able to find a specific rule on how to size fuses for specific expected currents. The advice I found online all seemed quite 'loose'. However, the Victron DC-DC charger manual actually specifies what fuse to use.
Here are my notes from installing a leisure battery & DC-DC charger in my 2018 Peugeot Expert Mk3. Its a very simple setup where the leisure battery is charged only by the alternator. There is no solar and no mains hookup. I shall spare you the detail of how I chose all my components; there are lots of articles describing this process elsewhere. However, I will put a list of components below.
Leisure battery: 100Ah LiFePO4 from Eco-Worthy
DC-DC charger: Victron 12/12-30A DC-DC Non-Isolated
Big charging cable: 16mm^2 cable
Big terminals: copper tube terminals with 6mm holes
Big fuses: 60A midi link fuses
Big isolator switches: 100A isolators
Fusebox: this cheap eBay one

As seen in the wiring diagram above, everything is grounded to the chassis to reduce the amount of black cable I needed to buy, and to reduce the number of holes I needed to drill. Of course you can, in principle, ground things to any part of the chassis, but I chose to use the existing grounding points made by Peugeot. I figured these guaranteed a good connection and saved me from having to grind paint off other parts of the chassis.
The first step was to find a route from the starter battery in the engine bay to the cab, where the leisure battery and charge controller would be installed.










And then the fusebox connects to my lighting, ceiling fan, diesel heater etc...
Wondering if anyone has done this before? Struggling to find information online. We're hoping to drop the fuel tank so that we can install the pump for a diesel heater.
Yes it was a little nerve-wracking, but I couldn't bear the thought of cooking in there without extraction. Cooking with a door open isn't great in winter!
We chose the MaxxFan to guarantee that we would never want to change it. The process of cutting a hole in the roof, then building a frame and fitting insuation around it, then fitting the interior panelling around that (etc etc) took quite a while, and we didn't like the idea that one day in the future we might want to upgrade from the cheaper fan. Everyone on the web says these things are the best, so I suppose its somewhat future-proof.
Intro
The web is littered with articles about this very popular roof fan. For proper detail, I would encourage you to look elsewhere. However, if you're keen to see how it fits to a 2018 Peugeot Expert, then read on.
Sidenote
If you (rightly) think that spending £300 on a fan is silly, then you might alternatively consider the Lemans Low Profile roof fan made by G&C for £95. I compared this with the MaxxFan Deluxe on Reddit, but eventually decided against it.
Installation
Firstly, we marked the hole by drawing around the mounting flange. We chose to put the fan off-centre because there was already a small hole in the roof from a previous vent.

Secondly, we drilled holes in each corner and then cut between these using a jigsaw. We used the cheapest metal-cutting blades from ScrewFix and a relatively crap jigsaw. Despite this, it was remarkably easy albeit very loud. The tape around the hole is "Scotch Blue" tape, which is just like regular masking tape but blue and consequently much more expensive. We sprayed the edges of the cut with metal paint to avoid rust and also swept any bits of metal swarf off the roof.

Thirdly, we stuck mastic tape around the hole. As seen in the previous photo, the roof has channels in it. We filled these with short strips of mastic tape stacked on top of one another. In this manner, we made a makeshift gasket. We also made a wooden frame to go beneath the the hole, as seen below.


Fourthly, we placed the mounting flange onto the mastic tape gasket and fastened it to the wooden frame through the metal roof. We then covered the mounting flange with sealant and mounted the actual fan. Note that the actual fan fits pretty tightly to the mounting flange - so tightly in fact that the screw holes don't line up when you first try to install it. This is detailed elsewhere online but its good to expect it. You can see the result below. In the left-hand side of this photo you can see there is a tree growing from our roof. This is necessary for Euro 6 compliance; driving in clean air zones and such.

Finally, once we had insulated and panelled the ceiling, we added the so called "garnish trim ring" on the inside, which makes everything look much less bodged. See below.

It hasn't leaked yet, despite some pretty heavy rain.
Shall post lots more info on the conversion... when I get the time to. Cheers!
Welcome to the forum! Glad we have some traction on the Mk3 front. Feel free to start a post telling us about your plans (and your old Mk1!)
Thank you! Its been a busy week so I'll write up some progress reports now.
I think it'll be a while before I have the time for a proper post on my old Mk1, but the important details are as follows. She cost £400. One year and 15,000 miles later, I sold her to a scrap yard for £100. I had spent most weekends sleeping in the back, and together we enjoyed some of the finest weather Scotland has to offer. She was called Celine.

I am thinking that the requirements here will be the same as a simple two way light switch.
I am famililar with this setup and love its simplicity but my hunch is that this will be different. The button is a push-release type, so its not like a two-way switch that stays in the position you have pushed it to.
I'd assume the button is more of a signal to a computery control.
This is more what I had in mind, but of course I don't know what sort of signal the computer is expecting. This thread in a VW T6 forum is interesting. They have a reverse-engineered wiring diagram, showing how the switch communicates with the computer (in their case, a 'body control module (BCM)') by adjusting the resistance between a particular wire and earth. However, it seems that their lock and unlock buttons are separate and connected to only two wires, so quite different from what I have on my Peugeot.
We reach over the seats and press the central locking button (the one with a padlock symbol, discussed here), which locks the doors without enabling the alarm. By contrast, locking the doors with the button on our key does enable the alarm, and it usually goes off as soon as we move. However, we are only able to reach over the seats from the back because we have removed the top half of the bulkhead, which you may not want to do.
Cheers for the reply! Shall update the thread when I figure it out, although that may take some months as lots of other pressing conversion tasks right now. The system on my Mk1 was much simpler, since all the locks were broken.
I initially posted about this on Reddit but this forum looks a lot better so I'm repeating myself here.
I'm trying to wire a second central locking button. This is the dashboard button (shown below) that you can press to lock/unlock the van when sat in the cab. I want to keep this button as it is, but add another one in the rear of the van that does the same thing. The van is a campervan conversion, so I want to be able to lock/unlock the doors while laying in bed in the back and while sat in in the cab in the front.

So far, I've pulled the dash off and unplugged the cable running to the back of the button. In case anyone else wishes to do this, I'll put a picture below. Its a right pain to get this cable off since you have to reach in quite far with your hand and you can't see what you're doing. You have to feel for the tab thing I've labelled and push it into the connector to release it.

And so here is the connector that I've unplugged.

So now I must work out what these four wires do. Clearly, one of them is earth. I expect that another wire powers the light on the button (see first image). Possibly, the van central locking is activated when the remaining two wires are connected? Would love to see a wiring diagram of the button. I think I will just buy a spare and experiment with a multimeter & continuity tests, but I would appreciate any advice that folk may have?
Glad to have found this forum! Currently converting a Mk3 Expert and will likely run into some problems. The photos on here make me miss my Mk1 Dispatch.