The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

So a small resurrection.  So with the recent cold weather came the return of the flashing lights and the broken alarm.  So today i bit the bullet and started taking the dash apart.  Just right of the steering column, cable tied to a bit of tubular steel was a black box.  After I disconnected the plug from it, end of the annoying flashing lights.  It's a Texalarm FAVA42.  No idea of it, never heard of the brand, but sure you've across them, John.

So the van still worked after I unplugged it.  looks like they spliced into the loom.  I taped the header plug and two other wires up.

Thanks for the help and insight.

Rust removal is one of those first jobs you have to do.  I spent possibly a week doing mine, but never had any issue with corrosion on the MOT's, so obviously worked.  But after three years the sills are starting to rust on the edges again.  Worst place on my van is the two back pillars.  I cleaned them out, but couldn't paint them properly, not even with a can of spray paint.  I also didn't remove the back bumper, so no idea what state it is in behind.  But almost everything on the underside got two licks of black hammerite.  The inside of the van also got a coat as well.

Yeah for me I need more space.  Space for me and living, space to carry my work tools (all six of them), basically i need a home away from home with all the comforts of said home.  I want to travel up to Norway next year, so will be operating in sub zero temperatures and I need more kit than I currently have for that journey and the ability to be 100% off grid for probably days at a time, so more water storage, fuel storage, etc.  My van isn't insulated enough for such a trip, just for starters and I don't have enough space to add in the necessary insulation.  But it's mainly just space to live in and mod cons for when the weather isn't so good and I have to spend say a couple of days not leaving the van.  Also I want to pick up contracts elsewhere in the country for work and they would require me to work in the middle of nowhere a lot of the time, for days to weeks on end.

I should have said this van just doesn't meet the needs of me.  Sweeping statements and all that.

Thanks.  I only found this guy while researching for the timing belt.  He's not cheap, but he also knows his shit.  For technical jobs, he's worth the money.  I have another guy I've used for years, but say a timing belt change would take him several days.  The other guy it took 2 hours and he knew the van, so no issues with the work.  Swings and roundabouts.  If you can find a guy who specialises in these vans, then use him for the tech jobs that you can't afford to fail.  Timing belts, maybe gearboxes and clutches, possibly engine related things and/or maybe electrics.  For basic stuff, find a general purpose mechanic.  At least that's the way i see it.  Any mechanic can swap an exhaust, change brake pads, etc.  Not everyone can can swap a timing belt and water pump in two hours.  Tailor the job to the mechanic.

But as John says, it's done. 

This next week i need to clean up and touch up the van.  Got some rust to clean up on the sills and wheel arches.  Needs a thorough wash, especially the roof, but the rest is pretty good.  I painted most of the underside when i bought it with hammerite and some anti rust spray stuff from toolstation.  Never had any issues with corrosion on the MOT's.  Then it goes up for sale.  I need a bigger van, something big enough for me to drive to Norway and live in for a month.  Something with a shower and toilet, a computer system, lots of power generation and storage, basically something that can stay off grid for a while.  The Expert can't do that.  So it's likely going to be a Ford Transit MWB/HR ie, L2H3 or maybe an L3H3.  But not fully decided yet, but leaning towards the L2H3, maybe a 2012 or 2013 Euro 5.

Thanks John for the diagram.  I will be going under later and see if I can find it.

As you said Reg, hard to access.  I am considering letting the local specialist do this one.  He did my timing belt.  Specialises in these vans and for him I'm guessing it will be a fairly quick job.  Also having a lift would simplify tasks.  With ramps I can get under far enough to see behind the engine, but I think the pipe is somewhere high up.  I also don't know where.  I plan to get my dad to rev the engine while I look in the hope I can narrow down the exact one.  Space wise it is tight, but not crazy from my quick look yesterday and from when i was doing the exhaust.  So now i know from the diagram where those pipes are I think i can get to number 8 by following the pipework on the left side of the engine up or maybe from the top.

I did mine the other way, but kept the door, so i can get into my storage area behind the toilet, a bit easier.  Also I'm lazy, so getting out the drivers side and getting straight into the back was more useful than having to walk around the other side.  Just remember the load space might not be level.  My bed is on an angle because I forgot that one thing.

As to Sikaflex, I used cheapo Stixall from Toolstation for everything.  It's damn near impossible to remove once you let it go off.  Solar panel is stuck down using it.  I'd have to get a chisel under the L brackets to get it off.

Actually not specific to my van.  I have never had a fail on emissions.  I was just musing over things like the use of Ad Blue on Euro 6's and DPF on Euro 5's.  I just wondered if adding a second inline cat would drop the emissions lower on older vehicles.  But on my van I always get comments from the garage that the emissions test was super low. This is namely due to the fact i swap the oil and air filters, swap the oil and put 10-15L of High Octane diesel in the tank with a couple of caps of redex, prior to MOT.  Been doing it that way for 30 years and never had an emissions fail on a diesel.  Had a petrol fail once, but did a few things to tune it up and it passed.

It is basically the above.  Less total cycles and quicker loss of capacity with B Grade cells, but even if that equals say 7-8 years at 80% DoD, then you lost 20% capacity (and no I don't know exact numbers), you still have 64Ah of power per cycle.  You would probably drop a new one in on a separate parallel circuit, maybe with a diode to make the old one, one way.  Or use it for something else.  it isn't like run for 7-8 years then die completely, the capacity tends to slowly wane over the next 5-10 years.

If you want something prebuilt, that's a pretty good deal.  the only way you get better bang for less is if you build it yourelf, in which case 300Ah for around £400 isn't bad, or maybe £750ish for a 600Ah battery in a 2P4S configuration with a 200A BMS.  300Ah is a lot, but with 600Ah you could run pretty much anything you wanted.

Cheap Lithium with a warranty.

https://sterling-power.com/collections/ … r-warranty

If you are hands on and have the knowledge, you can pick up Grade B cells from fogstar.co.uk and a BMS and build it yourself.  You could have a 300Ah LiFePO4 for about £450 if you go down that route.  Once I get my next van that will be my route.  I want to build a 600Ah 12V with a 200A BMS, charged by 600-800W solar, 30A DC DC or EHU.  Something I can go off grid in and stay off grid indefinitely.

I wouldn't worry about running from vehicle battery, I still run my lights in the back from the VB, but I moved my MPPT output to the Vehicle side and if the voltage gets high enough, the VSR opens and it charges the LB as well.  It's working ok so far.

80,000 for the timing belt on mine, but when i bought the van I couldn't find out when it was last changed so just had it done.  Don't know for the oil/air.  I swap my oil and filter every 4-6 months, air every year.  I did the gearbox oil after I bought it, that one is definitely worth doing if you haven't done it,, the stuff I pulled out was like treacle and the smell was horrendous, like burnt oil.  A couple of litres of 75w-80 and a tube of moly gear slip and that was fixed too.

Mine is the 2006 2.0 HDI as well.  I don't think I have a service light and if I do, it's never come on.

Mine has this problem.  Thanks for your writeup.  So far I've cut out a chunk of the rubber stuff and put it to dry.  I'm manually mopping up the water as it comes out of the insulation, but everything is wet.  It will take a while to dry it out.

I'll probably remount the rubber on velcro so it can be removed and checked if needed.

I've seen other vans go as high as 500,000, so don't see why one of ours shouldn't.  If you service things correctly, there shouldn't be an issue with hitting maybe 500k or beyond.  I suspect many engines will make it that far if you take care of them.