The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

It was the 13GB download I bought off Ebay that unpacked to a 20gb file I put on the cloud way back
It runs on XP in VM Workstation 15
Alvylad downloaded it and said he couldn't get it run but it worked for me
and better when I upgraded the VM ware.

There are some limitations due to it not being able to phone home so it may not work via a VIN number
but you can input van type manually its good enough for wiring diagrams which I mainly wanted and
gives info on most of mechanical and body assemblies.

Wiring wise, It does ask for an RPO number which i found on the door pillar.
Not sure is this is specific to Pugs or all PSA vans have it, if your dispatch has one tell me and the engine type and I'll see if it works
as they're all essentially the same van albeit with varying engines, I reckon a lot of the info is relevant.
Now I've worked out how to print the diagrams, I can build my own manual.

That's just some kind of primer IMO
I hear later models were galvanised but these were after the MK1 pre and post face lift era

Happy new year to one and all too

I don't buy the galvanising bit as there's no sign of it on my van
Somehow these van seem too cheap to warrant PSA spending on that sort of quality.
Rust will appear anyway cos its rust, but newly welded steel will start to rust in days unless treated

Various 'anti rust wonder products' have been on the market for years but my cheap go to
has been old engine oil slightly diluted with white spirit and a pump up garden sprayer
I would often make a few access holes to get it in all the nooks and crannies.
I've used this method on, among other things, my old Transits after welding which as we all know are often feckin rot boxes,
motor cycle frames and swinging arms and it's worked for me. 
Its messy but worthwhile and a hell of a lot cheaper than paying for a shop to weld yer old banger up.

1200-1500 quid for welding? jeez, that's more than the van is worth so I'll guess it's part of the family
to consider spending that.

So, to try and sum it all up in as concisely as I can.

it appears you have a DW10 UTED4 / RHK engine which is
a 2.0 litre common rail Turbo-diesel 16-valve with catalyst
Euro 5 compliant
and this variant has an engine mounted lift pump.
( like many of the 1.6 HDI's BTW)
You have still neglected to mention mileage.........

For comparison, my 2006 2.0 HDI (DW10 ATED / RHZ) has an electrical in tank lift pump
which at 135K is running well (fingers crossed)

Reported Fault:
intermittent starting issues, once started it runs ok

Correct?

'Test don't Guess' is my wee mantra when debugging but we all cant help guessing anyway
cos we're all human right?

If it were my vehicle I would get the OBD kit running on it and check fault codes
for clues before committing to spending.
Not all faults trigger an eml light.
I've got various VCIs up to a bootlegged Lexia which runs in WinXP in a VM (I hate it!)
but my favourite for the Expert is a Multidiag pro from Aliexpress running bootlegged Delphi.
This may not get under the hood as far as Lexia, but it gets the codes and some other data
which is all I want most of the time and it works on other vehicles too.
I've used it on my Expert and recently a 2011 Peugeot 308 1.6 HDI and a 2001 1.8 petrol Audi TT to read/clear fault codes.

Personally I wouldn't even bother getting ripped for an original one
and would probably mod a motorcycle oil cooler in for a fraction of the price.
An oil cooler should be capable of handling the higher temps and pressure than say a small radiator
so that's why I'd go in that direction.

I'd try browsing here by checking out sizes, dimensions and fitting that could be suitable

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw= … m570.l1313

let us know so other can benefit from you experience

If you do have to use the van, keep the tank well topped up as this extra mass will help slow down the rise in temperature of the cycling fuel
a low fuel level would heat up way quicker and possibly get it too hot.
Getting put now and again  and putting a hand on the tank would help you get an idea
If its too hot touch stop and let in cool down and/or add fuel if you can.
45 degrees C-ish would be OK

Driving moderately in high would help a bit too

Its bit of a can of worms but have a look at my attempt to get a discussion going on this subject with virtually no response
so I don't bother any more

https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … hp?id=2083

I fitted new door speakers for my Sony Xplod and they work well
but I also bought some 4" Pioneer speakers for another project and made cabinets
but that project was abandoned.
I haven't felt much need to fit these in the van as it's pretty quiet now and I don't think I really need them
I made the cabinets as compact as I could and they're roughly 150mm square and 68mm deep

Any van is a big tin drum so I insulated mine and it's made it much quieter
see in this thread
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … hp?id=1918

I also add deflectors to the doors to cut the wind noise and cruising on the motorway at say 65-70 it's
acceptable and most of the noise seems to come from the tyres and road surface so I don't have to
crank the volume up much to compensate

I understand your frustration with the thing, as I've had few nightmare vehicles too
But before throwing away your investment I suggest you check the pump timing is correct and
hasn't slipped to a retarded position which could cause the symptoms you describe.
It shouldn't cost you anything but some time to check.
I cant tell you the procedure exactly as I have a different engine but generally you pin/lock the crank
and camshaft with dowels (or drill bits), then check and/or set the pump timing using the marks
or whatever the manual says.

If you get it running well but you're sick of it, you can at least sell it and get more of your money back