The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

If all you want is to get fault codes then the Delphi knock offs will do that
the VCI is available on AliExpress and they usually come with knock off software
that worked on mine and my neighbours Audi TT
It also let me cycle the fuel pump and coolant fan on the Expert
Lexia should allow you to get further 'under the hood' but having to install VMware and Windows XP
( windows XP? FFS!) to use it was a bit of PITA.
The may be some basic BT/USB VCIs that will allow you to do this for all I know.
Hondas PGM/FI system is great I can get fault codes with paper clip!.
I have a dedicated laptop for all my car and bike OBD stuff but these modern units with all in one VCI adapter,
screen and buttons are obviously very convenient to use.

IF THEY WORK !
Before buying I suggest you make sure there is a cast iron returns process just in case.

As for real time monitoring, there are already plug in modules on the market for this
but as above, buyer beware.

Most modern vehicles have OBD/OBD2 but regulations only seem to insist on a basic comms layer
and anything beyond that can be tricky to get at without substantial expenditure

I've since reverted the down light back to a conventional festoon bulb as
A I found a few in a box so I have plenty of spares
B LEDs are good for working/loading lights but can be somewhat 'cold'.

I've found the dimmer/warmer glow is fine for jumping in and out of the van at night
but it's handy to have the higher intensity leds in the rear for when they're needed

Yes you do have a lift pump, the type depends on the engine you have which you haven't mentioned

It sounds as if someone has read looked for fault codes, but fault codes only occur under specific conditions
and while they can be very useful, dont alway tell the full story.
I've had fault codes lead me up the garden path at times.
As you can easily force the fault by turning the wheel etc to stall it, that actually helps
believe it or not
It's the intermittent faults that can drive you mad

I'd get my multi channel scope on it to monitor various systems and see if I could spot any sudden drops or spikes when the fault occurs.
But
that's taking the complex route, starting simpler....
I dont know the mileage but do know its 25 years old and all those bells and whistles and electrical gubbins make it a pretty complex machine and electrical connections can degrade due to mechanical wear, oxidisation, rust, heat etc.
Honda PGM-fi is a good system but depends on good clean signals so I suggest checking cleaning as many connectors as you can and just as importantly, good grounding too.
Poor connections and grouding can cause signals to fluctuate and give an ECU conniptions.

After that I'd monitor voltages from standing battery to  start and beyond to when the battery voltage gets to and holds close to 14v. you may get some clues from that
Less than 13.5V is hardly charging, more than around 15V on that age of vehicle would concern me

thas enough of me rantin for now

I had to use the reverse camera for real for the first time yesterday when backing into a gap between two parked cars and it was actually quite useful.
The pic appears to show I have about 7/8 feet or roughly 2 meters space behind me but that's the wide angle lens affect distorting perspective.
In reality it's 3 feet or a meter at the most and that's after I moved forward a bit
Nonetheless, it proved to be helpful in that situation

I'm looking into getting a better quality screen but the sheer amount of bullshit and lies spouted by sellers
is a PITA to sift through.
A lot of them state 1080p in listings but many screens are in fact way lower resolution than that and I've sent one back already with very shitty feedback.
It was 800x400 pixels which isn't even 720p HD let alone the FHD of true 1080p

Yep, wide angle lenses make things look further away than they are and have to be pointed down-ish at least to give
a more accurate depiction of relative distance when backing up which is the most important thing.
My cam allowed me to swap R/L so what I see in the 'mirror' is what you'd get when looking in any car/van mirror
( right is on the right left is on the left) otherwise it gets confusing.

Why remove the manifold?
Just selectively back off the injector pipe nuts one at a time
as its ticking over presumably 'lumpily'
if no change, it's probably the bad injector
if it gets worse (lumpier) its a good injector.

Obviously, tighten the nut up again before going to the next injector.

Leave the pump alone, unless there is solid evidence it has been mis timed, leave it be.
It if the pump was wrongly set up, I reckon it would have been obvious after the glow plugs were replaced.

I always check the temp gauge against an IR thermometer so know if I can trust it
'white smoke' from poor combustion can easily be confused with water vapour and vice versa.
so you need to establish what it is exactly.

(It's also possible for it to be both of course)

I can see coolant in your pic so you dont seem to have lost a lot in 2000km
I'd check all hoses carefully when fully warmed up and running
check around the heater too.

I have often mused over finding/fitting some softer rear springs as it does feel a bit harsh at times.
If I could get a part number or what would be compatible and they weren't too expensive, I'd be sorely tempted as I bet they
make for a nicer ride and lessen the impact that can make the doors rattle

Just did quick Ebay check out of curiosity
£65 a pair? jeez, I'm tempted
What do you reckon to these Ken?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296567756018?

An H bridge is basically/usually a control ciruit that can flip the polarity
pos/neg to neg/pos making say, a motor run in either direction.

I'm only assuming an H bridge, but it may just use relays instead.
Sorry, I have no idea where the controller is, all the locks on my van have just the two wires
going to them and the controller is buried under the dash or in the engine bay for all I know.
I haven't had to search the thing out yet.