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Your just going to have to fill up with diesel and find out
Yup. I's not really the veg I was worried about, rather if there's something else wrong with the engine that could be a problem.
BTW i quick fag packet sum that same trip ^^ would only cost you around 40 quid more on your MPG.
Yea it's not massive. I was more comparing with the 40MPG I felt like it should be getting (I'm going off the aforementioned Synergie/806 1.9TDs which got mid-to-high-40s on a decent run).
But if mid-to-high-30s is the best I can expect, then I'm a bit less concerned that there's a fault.
TBH when on a jolly do you really bother about MPG?
That's the biggest thing I bother about! Because it means I can go on more/further jollies for the same money 
I only did an average out of curiosity and i know how much i put aside for fuel so its easy to work out rather than keeping receipts. To be getting 35 out this old heavy bus i am chuffed but i do wonder why you bother with 50/50 mix with veg oil kenbw2. I presume SVO is straight so unless you are getting it mega cheap are you saving a great deal per tank?
Same applies to SVO. I'm on 50:50 atm because winter, I'll be ramping up as the weather warms up. I'm getting it anywhere between 76p and £1 a litre depending on offers - I stockpiled lots when it was last 76p a litre at Tesco. At 80p/litre (compared with derv at £1.20/litre) that means I'm paying roughly 2/3rds per tank compared with derv.
I'm conscious of it being a false economy though, hence wondering if it's degrading my MPG.
Yea, if 35MPG is what can be expected, then I'm... accepting of that. Just wanted to make sure I've not got something faulty adversely affecting it.
Sounds like 35MPG is normal for mixed driving then. I'll have to give mine a go with 100 dino diesel and see if that helps, and no idling too.
70mph creeping to 80 sometimes when on motorways
Creeping to 80 - must've been a strong tailwind
I did a very rush job from Luxembourg to Calais on 100% derv and got 31MPG, but that was literally foot down all the way so I didn't miss my ferry. Not that it helped mind, they had an incident and 6 hour delay at the port =/
I'm off to the Black Forest in summer actually. Any decent overnight spots?
I've come from both the Citroen Synergie and Peugeot 806 with the XUD9 TD engines. I was expecting similar MPG from my Dispatch, but unfortunately that's not what I'm seeing.
I just did a 620 mile tank-and-a-bit, on 93 litres of fuel - coming out at 30.14 MPG. I'm pretty disappointed, especially as that's about 50% sensible motorway driving.
Some possible considerations:
- I'm running 50:50 on SVO
- I have a Bosch pump originally from an XUD9 engine
- I have the 1999 DW8 engine with none of the electronic advance, and no ECU
- I recently had my air intake off and checked the EGR, it's all clear
- I am charging a leisure battery, not sure how much the alternator would drag
- I do sometimes do some extended idling, but wouldn't expect that to consume all that much
I'm interested to see what your experiences are.
Logging in at the moment sends the password in plain text so it can be intercepted. Could we get HTTPS added?
I'm willing to offer some help setting it up if needed
Mine's pre-electronic timing. My equivalent is a cold start advance cable, but mine's slack at super cold temps so is similarly having no effect. I suspected that too until the glow plug change fixed everything.
One point on the glow plugs, I hear rumour of a possible issue where the glow plug ECU fails, it never shuts them off so they stay on forever. If that's the case they'd quickly burn out.
Get a multimeter on the plugs and see if there's a voltage on them about 10 minutes after starting
I had exactly that - oil in the coolant but no coolant in the oil. I suspected head gasket too, but thankfully it turned out to be a leaky oil cooler. Definitely worth trying before you start taking the head off.
Easy thing to try. When I did mine I documented it here: https://frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/view … =3&t=58040
Smoke and lumpy when starting I had too, but that was unrelated. Like you say, it was fine once it was running and warmed up. I replaced my glow plugs (1 - 2 hour job) and it was instantly fixed.
Any questions let me know. I know it can be daunting trying things even if they're in theory straightforward.
Yea I ended up attaching mine to the lock on the door
Only 36 watts, hardly any draw at all.
I'm thinking in terms of powering it off-grid. 30Ah in a day is probably 2+ hours of driving/lots of solar in winter.
Mine came out after a few too many pulls. It's a ball that's pushed into the metal:

Says 3A on the back. Is that its actual draw? If so that's pretty hefty.
Don't they all have that? The plastic is the same as mine in the OP, and the board below it was some crappy hardboard kind of plastic-riveted to the door that I pulled off to put insulation inside the door.
I was hoping to not have much metal exposed as it's a good heat-sink, but it looks like yours have a fair bit on show.
vaz2121 - I notice you have yours carpeted. Is that just straight on the metal?
I understand what your saying but I'm puzzled as to why just because your in full time ....... shouldn't necessarily guarantee mold issues........
1. Is mold only on lower extremities of wood.......
Yep, definitely down at the bottom and the edges - the places that are most exposed to damp, and also the parts screwed to the metal, so also the coldest points
2.Is there a plastic sheet on door..doors behind what would have been original door card
No, I removed that to put the insulation inside the door. I'm regretting that as it lets draughts in. I'll be reinstating that.
3.Is it localized to door/doors or randomly about van
There are bits on the shelves that are behind my water that never see the light of day, nor get any warmth, but I'd say it's pretty much all on the doors.
I ask because not being porous or absorbent the metal and plastic likely will stay fine.......
Yea this is my thinking. Zero mould on metal or plastic surfaces, so I ideally want to get rid of the wood panels 9those thing OAT has sound perfect)
I'm beginning to wonder if you have a water leak that's continually keeping the wood damp..............
or is the plastic barrier been damaged behind wood to allow a constant damp for it to manifest where you can now see it ................
I don't think so because the mould isn't around those areas - it reaches up to the top, but only along the edges. In fact, there's no mould on the back side of the wood - only the side that sees light, which is interesting.
Not the same thing relay .... But last year we had an instance in my daughters ground floor flat that had a burst/leaky pipe under bathroom floor ..... Obviously investigations traced it back to pipe under our bog floor.. which was almost exactly the opposite side of building from where and what was expected
I accept that as a possibility, but doesn't seem to be the apparent cause.
I think I need something much less porous, which is why I was asking what you guys use. OAT, tell me the ways of your plastic moulded panels!
For my two pence worth as OAT said mold growth is usually when left laid up for quite a while and usually starting in the grubby areas IE where we've been touching.... Living in van full time is bound to create quite a large amount of moisture and condensation.
In my van the insulation has a vapor barrier taped over it and seals it of from the outer cladding ....IE wood or carpet .......
My suggestion is much the same as "OAT" plenty (through)ventilation at all times as best you can and probably seal (oil) the wood as it's possibly the culprit for capturing moisture and promoting growth.......
The wood cladding should be fine and again it's most likely in and around areas where we have an influence
I kind of have experience that's both the same and opposite of what you're saying. I have a spare vehicle (Peugeot 806) that's my standin for if anything happens to the Dispatch. That's getting mould in touchy feely places like the steering wheel and seat belts. This one however is in damp corners of the doors that don't get much ventilation.
I agree ventilation is the key. I have ran guards and while I'm at work I keep my windows open, which helps somewhat. But obviously I produce a lot of moisture, there's only so far that can go.
It's the fact that the plastic and metal seem fine, just not the wood. Maybe it's right that an oil based varnish will be better, if my plastic options don't come to anything.
Doesn't seem like there's much more you can do really. Ventilation will always help but isn't always practical in winter.
Trouble with the mould is that you will never totally get rid of it and it's not good stuff to be breathing in if your spending hours living in there.
Decent waterproof ply would be a lot better. How about that plastic (polycarbon?) double skinned sheet stuff wrapped in carpet? There is allsorts of different plastic claddings out there but hard to find in the small amounts we need.
Interested to hear your living in it, do you move around much? If you can occasionally get electric hook up for a day or two you could give it a good dry out with a fan heater.
The plastic on my sliding doors looks moulded to fit so is probably from a taxi. Sliding windows both sides too. The plastic still feels cold to touch but never gets condensation on it like the painted steel in the top half. I used a couple of layers of cheap camping/yoga type mat for insulation.
Yea I've been looking into acrylic sheets. One thing I noticed is that it's all cold and damp, but neither the plastic nor metal have mould. Only the wood. I assume it's more absorbent and/or feeds the mould. The acrylic is suitably sized, but probably £25 per door, which is a bit steep. The double skinned stuff I've considered, but I'd need to rethink my curtains as they screw into the wood panel.
Do you have a picture of your plastic? I've checked taxis in scrapyards but never found anything for the sliding doors. If it covers the bottom half of the door then that's perfect.
I work 4 days a week at a normal job in Bradford, and my girlfriend is near there too, so I'm kind of centred around there. But I go out on my long weekends to more distant places. Nice to live in the pleasant surroundings on Northern England
No hookup as I'm pretty much 100% off-grid. I thought about getting an electric heater in there when I visit family, but I don't think it's frequent enough to make a difference unfortunately.
I thought you meant molding the wood to the shape at first.
I see you mean mould growth though.
Hard to keep any van dry at this time of the year but I have never actually had mould growth unless laid up for weeks or months. Sounds like you only just put the wood panels up recently and have mould growth already?
Kinda, I instaled them and then maybe 2 months later they were growing black mould round the edges.
Is the ply or whatever exterieur grade? Have you sealed it with anything? Any insulation behind it?
Nope, just generic ply. After the first lot of mould I cleaned them off and coated them in varnish (although the water based kind, I was being lazy). No insulation directly behind it, but the doors are filled with plastic wool stuff.
If the vans standing try leaving a bit of ventilation if possible without letting rain in. Adn give it a good run with full heat any chance you get.
I actually live in it full time (hence the damp). I'd love to give it some heat, but my blowers are kinda lukewarm since I had oil in my coolant from an oil cooler leak last summer!
My own van has plastic trim on the lower half of the sliding doors. Only metal showing in the top half around sliding windows and in the shuts.
What's the plastic trim? This sounds perfect! I have the plastic rectangle you can see in the picture, and the doors came with a crappy chipboard panel on the bottom, but plenty of metal on show. I'd love to yo see yours!
I was thinking of carpet but the section is so thin it would be a fidelity job and not much contact area to stick to. Add on the problems the condensation wicking into the carpet and I haven't bothered.
Hmm I was thinking of carpeting mine, but good point on the wicking...
I am considering foamed neoprene. What they make wetsuits out of. I wouldn't expect it to be a durable as other options but top half of doors should be ok for a year or two. And that might well see the van out!
Anyone used it?
Seems a good idea in principle.
I swapped my seats for swivels, and didn't need to detach the handbrake cable.
There are (I'm pretty sure) two bolts securing the handbrake lever to the seat base. It'll be obvious once you remove the plastic cover.
Make sure to chock the wheels/put it in gear because you'll slacken off the handbrake.
I've got wooden panels I cut out myself, but I'm having some mould problems, so I'm thinking wood isn't the right answer.

I'm considering using perspex sheets instead of wood. Or I could just put 4-way-stretch carpet straight onto the metal, but I'm worried that that might grow mould and be harder to remove.
Ideally the taxis would have something, but I'm not finding anything unfortunately. What have you all done with yours?
What happened to the arm rests kenbw2?
They got in the way so I took 'em off. Still got them though.
I'm sure I'm opening a can of worms here but It looks to me it must comply when presented a bit like an MOT is only a guarantee "It past at that time"
What happens if you change your mind
It had occurred to me I could install something now, and maybe not have to think about it as being a permanent fixture.
But why bother if your convinced it'll be rejected?.........
Because it means going to the effort of building and fitting things I have no interest in having
If I can submit without them, then all the better. But like you say I don't know if it'd affect possible future submissions.
The Scudo,expert ,dispatch will go on a ferry as a MPV..... but charged as a van you can double the fare... Most folks from what I've heard have had no problems but have at least had windows in the side doors....
Can confirm, went Dover to Calais and back on "tall car" rates. No questions asked.
Enjoy building your van to how you want it but don't be surprised if you want things different in a wee while.......
Yep, you're never finished, but that's half the fun!
I've got my Dispatch kitted out as a camper - it's definitely fully equipped as I happen to live in it full time. But I'm not one for aesthetics so it's very... functional.
Space is at a premium, so doing things in a way that makes best use of space has been my priority.
In terms of the stock requirements that I do fulfil:
A door that provides access to the living accommodation
Yep - sliding side doors and windows
A water storage tank or container on, or in, the vehicle
Yep - 20 litre mounted to the wall with water pump for the tap and mini sink
A permanently fixed means of storage, a cupboard, locker or wardrobe
Full height shelving with large baskets to store food, clothes, cookware etc
A permanently fixed cooking facility within the vehicle, powered by gas or electricity
Double gas stove mounted to a sideboard, hooked up to 3.9/4.5kg Calor bottle in a sealed bucket at the back vented to the outside
At least one window on the side of the accommodation
All my doors have windows
Other things I have in there beyond these requirements:
Leisure battery with split charge relay and completely separate electrics for the house stuff, as well as solar panel on the roof
Furnishings - carpeted throughout, taxi roof lining, wooden panelling on the doors, walls carpeted over
Insulated throughout with rockwool-style plastic wool
Curtains on tracks across all windows
Both swivel seats in the front
I have photos of the build process for all of this, from obvious panel van to obvious camper.
But there are two sticking points I have that block me from going for it.
A bed, which has a minimum length of 1800mm or 6 feet ... must be permanently fixed within the body of the vehicle
This is a stickler. I specifically don't want to take up a load of space with a bed, especially as I need it to *sometimes* be a double for when my girlfriend joins me for weekends away. I have 2 foam mattresses (6ft long) that fold out onto the floor and stow under the shelves during the day
A seating and dining area, permanently attached to the vehicle - the table may be detachable but must have some permanent means of attachment
Again, I don't have any interest in a table. It's unnecessary space.
How strict are they going to be on those two things?
Is there any harm in submitting my application on the understanding that I might be rejected?
Definitely a direct replacement. I took the swivel seats out of my Synergie and put them in the Dispatch.

You'll need the little cage thing underneath the seat as the bolts between the seat and the cage are like 3cm different between the Synergie/806 seats and the Dispatch ones. but the bolts into the floor are identical.
The bolts were very rusted though, I ended up rounding them off. Be careful and lube them up lots.
See if you can find a Taxi version at the scrap yard. In the doors you get these hooks
What go here in the door
Yep, already got those (my doors are from taxis):

Also on some models you have air guides on the door behind the windows. This section
Yea I've seen those, I want them so badly! Only one I've found was on a scrappy, but he would only give it me with the whole door, at £40 each. They're super hard to search for because my searches come up with those wind deflectors/rain guards for in the windows.
Forgot about this guide. Open door and you have this inside the frame
The lower part is meant to slot into the upper part. 100% shit design. You can adjust your lower part what is on the door as that will be set to the donor van
Yep, seen and adjusted those, which did help a bit. I did end up throwing them inside the pillar a few times!