The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

I've changed many's a head gasket but not on a DW8.
Generally speaking, it's more than just swapping a gasket and off you go
The head will probably need skimming and best practise would be to renew the cam belt and water pump
while you're in there unless you know for sure it's been recently done
If the belt/pump has done 75K then I'd definitely renew them.
Plus, remove, check and lap in the valves as well and check to see if the coolant has got into the engine oil
You'll also need to investigate why it lost coolant and remedy that

this guy has done a Partner 1.9D head gasket which will give an idea of the process
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g36JD_Y_fGo

What would a cold, hard, appraisal tell us?
This and previous posts tell us:
28 years old, laid up for the last 9, laundry list of jobs that need doing
for MOT, had some internal tarting up, 1.9D or TD at best, unknown mileage.
tyres 9+ years and may well need renewing.

I think it's fair to say folk aren't going to be throwing money at you.
If it were mine I'd be pricing up the cost of getting it MOT'd against what I'd get for
it as is.
No MOT usually means spares repair/scrap value.
An MOT will increase its value and sellability but probably not double it.

Somebody might want it as a project and at the end of the day its only worth what
somebody is prepared to pay for it.

Please don't take this personally, it's what I do when looking at my own van
when considering whether to keep it/tart it up/flog it.
I know I could spend a grand on it and not get that back and any gadgets and tarting up we do
are fun but pretty meaningless if it wont pass an MOT.

Where and how to sell it? well its obviously Facebook, Gumtree or Ebay I'd say
or stick a note in the window for passers buy to see

While I'm rantin on about this OBD malarkey.
Here's the £105 Launch CRP123 I bought (and returned for refund) to the Ebay seller which did SFA when trying to connect to the old Expert.
The listing suggested it would do so much, but in reality it didn't even connect to the ECU

My first suspect would be the cable release/catch not retracting properly when released
You'd probably need a helper to pull the lever in the cab a few times as you watch what happens in the engine bay.
BTW I found the grille easy enough to remove on my Expert, remove 2 top screws and pull.

I just plumped for this one for £35
Its got Delphi ds150e by the looks of it and the cables could be useful when quizzing odd models and
some motorbikes and scoots as all the chinese stuff uses a delphi ecu

whether the software will play nice or not remains to be seen
My bestest lappy runs win 10/64 with security set to over protective paranoid which I'd probably have to disable to set it up
I might stick Win7/64 on the other one and try running it as an offline machine from that.

I recently bought a Launch CRP123 for £105 that didn't want to know and that's gone back for a refund
so if my £35 is wasted that's not as painful.

Most of the OBD stuff on Ebay is chinese made and probably runs copied/bootlegged hardware and firmware so I doubt our low key efforts to keep old bangers running is going to attract any serious attention.

this what I ordered

for those interested this is breakdown of the ACF process
Basically, heat ( circa 80C) and pressure is used to get the conductive particles to align and the adhesive to set.

https://www.amadaweldtech.eu/sites/defa … 1-2015.pdf

I checked out the Fiat forum and multiecuscan was mentioned so I grabbed it to evaluate it in free mode.
The supported vehicle list wasn't encouraging as the list didnt mention the Scudo JTD
which as I understand is the equivalent of the 2.0 HDI.
I ran the prog plugged it in and couldn't connect but maybe I didn't set it up properly and may try again.
where can get this PSA lexia thing?

Pics would be good

Its possible the LCD display is breaking down but it may also be due to
bad/oxidised contacts on one of the cable connectors or the ribbon cable connections to the display itself as this is not an unknown problem on quite a few vehicles.
I've had my clocks out but as they were working didn't take that detailed a look.

RE the fuel gauge
Again, bad connections and grounding must always be considered on older vehicles so checking/cleaning them first is a good idea.
As it appears to work intermittently it may be just a poor connection.
Apparently, the connector under the van near the tank is prone to getting the weather in
so that has to be worth checking/cleaning.
If cleaning has no effect then before dismantling stuff I'd probably ground the signal wire to ground (with ignition on) briefly to see if the gauge starts to rise to full.
This test helps decide if the fault is in the gauge or sender.

A can of switch and connector cleaner from say Halfords/Ebay or similar is always part of my tool kit

It would help if you say what year/engine you have as while they're all basically the same van,
early to late electrical systems may have some variations.

As Ken says, the odo and fuel gauge are separate faults and the low coolant level warning light may or may not be an issue
I find the one on mine is somewhat sensitive and triggers when its only slightly, not seriously, low.
On the upside, at least it tells me its working properly.