New Expert Build

Pathfinder100 · 2021-07-30 14:33:26

That's a pain, as I do have electric windows. Does anyone know what the alternator output is on these vans? On a transit it's 160A, but these vans only have a small Ah battery, so I am guessing its much lower, maybe 60-100A. I might have to look to a B2B instead of the VSR, just to make the most out of any limited power if it is limited. My current VSR is rated at 100-140A (since it was bought for a Transit).

I would be looking at probably getting the Victron 12V 18A B2B. Coupled (initially) with a 130Ah AGM battery and 300w of solar, it should suffice for most things I need to do. At some point down the line the AGM will be replaced with LiFePO4, but for now I have a pretty high quality Leoch SLCA AGM.

vaz2121 · 2021-08-01 10:25:56

Being a dinosaur I'm unsure of some of your technical abbreviations ......
So bearing that in mind Yes you are correct the alternator rating is 60ah to somewhere around 90ah IIRC ...........
Have a look at 12v DC to DC chargers if you haven't already they seem to be the next best thing to sliced bread........
My Van has for me a black magic juju voltage sensing thing for charging and isolating second battery off alternator again IIRC an Italian made quite expensive set up called a PC 100 something or other ...............
I'll post a picture, its got a 12v charger, 240v ac hook up thing with fuse boxes and things to look after and control electrical gubins [like lights,3 pin 240v sockets, water pump,gray tank and fresh water level etc if required] when on hook ups or not {I did at one time read up all about it} ................

{You can just tell I'm expert at all this} ...............

Charge control wiring on mine appears to go under floor from cab area.....
{I think you'll find that easiest solution} or as kenbw2 said

And as O A T states thats a good way to insulate floor .............
[Do insulate floor it'll help no end in your comfort] ...

As youv'e probably guessed I took easy route {just had to fund it 5 or 6 years ago} and bought mine already and professionally converted

Last edited by vaz2121 (2021-08-01 10:30:13)

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-02 00:06:38

I will be doing insulation on Tuesday now. i finally got the ply up in the load area and it needs some work, filling in holes and a full coat of Hammerite for all the rust spots. Once done it will get 5mm closed cell foam/foil, then the ply board will go on top, then floor tiles to finish it. Side walls will be getting 10mm of closed cell. Doors will be getting 5mm of closed cell and bubble wrap. I might fill in any gaps with expanding foam. But I haven't 100% decided on that yet.

As for the electrics, I have a VSR (Voltage Sensitive Relay) at present and I am running a 130ah AGM Lead Acid battery (optimised for deep cycle operation), so for now I don't see any need in grabbing a B2B (Battery to Battery / DC to DC). I just need to get a 16mm cable down to the VB (Vehicle Battery). EHU (Electric Hookup / Mains) will be handled by one of those camping all-in-one boxes (breaker, 3 sockets, USB and long cable).

Their is nothing wrong with using a CBE PC100. They are generally pretty user friendly. if it works for you and is fit for purpose, then that's sweet. It makes life a lot easier in some ways.

If the van was a bit bigger I might have considered for myself something like this All-in-One that Epever do. 30A MPPT Solar Controller, 1000W Inverter, Mains Battery Charger and Mains Auto Switchover in one box. Epever 12v 1000W UPower. When coupled with a 200ah Lithium battery and 30A B2B, you would probably be set for most situations.

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-04 02:49:18

Well I did the oil and filter yesterday. The oil was in a bit of a state, like treacle and the filter was a pain to remove, not to mention the sump plug that required the rattle gun to remove. If I had to make an educated guess I would say the oil hasn't been changed in a couple of years and the same for the oil filter. Turns out, according to the Peugeot sticker under the bonnet, I can use ACEA A5/B5 which is consequently what that Ford spec oil is. Needless to say I used it.

I also started on the insulation. First thing i did was actually on the prior day, when i painted over all the rust spots in the load area. Today i finished it off by sealing a number of bolt holes.

Following that i measured and cut out two pieces of insulation for the floor. This was then fixed down on the ribs in the load area.

Finally the plyboard floor was put back in to hold the insulation down.

Today is continuation of the insulation task.

kenbw2 · 2021-08-04 13:11:50

That ply floor looks very nice I have to say

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-05 02:22:41

Apparently Marine Ply. Really heavy duty, so should suffice for what i want to do with it.

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-08 18:18:20

Tomorrow, assuming the weather holds, is rip the back bumper off day. I need to do some more rust proofing. I know those box sections at the back are rusting badly on all sides (including the bumper side), so removal of it has become a must. I will be treating with Kurust and then spraying with some Plastikote 4-in-1 Anti Corrosion Spray Paint I picked up at Toolstation. Then when dry, brush painting with Hammerite

Second part of the day is finish the insulation off. i have a bunch of high temp spray adhesive.

Beyond that I have 10m2 of 4 way stretch carpet. I've been warned its a complete bastard to do, but that's hopefully happening on Tuesday (and maybe Wednesday). I am only doing the walls and doors for now, as I need the solar panels up and mounted before I can do the roof area.

I have a power steering issue, a whirring noise, youtube thinks its air in the systema dn i am going to try a video I watched the other night that suggests putting the front end in the air, taking the cap off the power steering fluid reservoir, starting the engine and turning the steering wheel fully from lock to lock until the air comes out of the system and then top it off with fluid. Hopefully that works. If not the pump is buggered and I need to get that replaced.

Its looking like a busy week of van conversion tasks. Also its going into the garage to get the turbo sensor issue resolved at some point.

Does anyone know how to fix the spinning door locks issue? Is it a broken mounting clip? Had a similar problem on a Fiesta long ago and it was the barrel mounting clip that had come off.

kenbw2 · 2021-08-08 22:32:46

Pathfinder100 wrote:

Does anyone know how to fix the spinning door locks issue? Is it a broken mounting clip? Had a similar problem on a Fiesta long ago and it was the barrel mounting clip that had come off.

My 806 had this fixed with a new key cut from Timpsons oddly enough. The new key worked fine, the old one needed it pressing right into the lock

cliffo · 2021-08-09 10:31:17

kenbw2 wrote:

My 806 had this fixed with a new key cut from Timpsons oddly enough. The new key worked fine, the old one needed it pressing right into the lock

Did Timpsons have the key type in stock or did they have to order it in?

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-09 14:37:04

I actually already have two different keys. The back/sliding door lbarrels either don't work or someone has glued them. They all have deadlocks on, but the central locking still works The front locks work, but only the passenger door will work correctly (which is getting annoying).

I did wonder whether to just stixall the plastic trim around the barrel to the handle trim as that seems to be whats spinning. But from past days I think the actual problem is the mounting clip on the inside that holds the barrel in place.

Worst case i will get 5 new barrels and replace them all, but for now I would prefer to have the front door locks working.

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-10 22:57:09

While insulating today I got a stroke of luck. I had noticed some sheathed cable n the nearside back pillar. Basically someone has run a 16mm2 cable from the vehicle battery back to that pillar. I checked it with a Multimeter and it is indeed live. Put it into a distribution box and stashed it back in the pillar until I get around to doing the electrics. Also found a short neg lead with it that's unconnected to anything. i will make a new negative point in the chassis, probably from one of the many holes in that pillar and connect it to that. That will give me the requirements to bring my VSR online.

Secondly, the drop out vent in the back that someone installed provides an easy way to get mains electrics into the van, not to mention its in a place with a load of room that i can stash the business end of it into. It is one of these units.

I intend to use it to power a battery charger for the leisure battery and a socket to run either a microwave or kettle. The third socket may be used by some sort of heater for winter or maybe a laptop charger. My plan is to chop the cable at about 2m from the socket end, put that down the drop out vent, through a cable gland and into an external hookup socket. then put a new connector on the chopped end of the cable so i end up with a mains cable of around 12-13m.

Tomorrow consists of finishing the insulation off (for now). Basically whatever is left of the spraying and sticking needs to be done. Also gluing a solar panel to the roof. i am looking at putting a 100w panel up for now, just to give me some power.

kenbw2 · 2021-08-11 02:09:52

That's an amazing find! 16mm2 means only like a 0.45v drop at 35A which is awesome

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-11 18:57:59

It sure makes the vehicle side of the electrics a hell of a lot easier.

I now have the roof vent and gland box on order. I hope to have the solar panel glued down on Friday, the gland box installed and the solar cables down to that pillar and any cables for lighting put in place ready for when that happens. Then over the weekend, attempt the the stretch carpet trim. Tomorrow is bed building day. I basically want the vast majority of the basic side of the build done by next Wednesday, so i can get a holiday in it before summer ends. wink What that means in reality is bed, toilet, cooker and water storage. If I have some basic power and lights too, that would be sweet.

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-19 16:49:51

Well it looks like the garage is struggling to find the reason why the turbo has low boost. If it hasn't been found by tomorrow I will probably pull the van back home. Order a copy of Lexia and the cables from ebay and maybe replace the Turbo pressure solenoid, which i believe is the wastegate solenoid. It's £35 for one on ebay. No idea where it is located, but guessing its somewhere behind the engine where the EGR and turbo are.

I believe its the EGR page in the DW10 Spec, component number 4 on the diagram. That would be my first guess. At least that's what a lot of sites say might be the cause. Checking it requires causing an open circuit, which I guess means unplugging the power connector.

@tee_cee, which Lexia/Diagbox is sufficient. Can I get the v7.83 which seems quite old. Like below?

Lexia3/PP2000 Diagbox V7.83 Interface Diagnostic OBD2 Chip For Citroen Peugeot

Last edited by Pathfinder100 (2021-08-19 16:50:33)

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-23 05:50:18

A small update. Did the solar panel and roof vent last week before it went to the garage. Never posted a picture of it in case anyone wanted a look. So here it is. The cables between the panel and gland box will be tidied up in the next few days. The panel is only glued on with Stixall for now, as it isn't the final panel. It's an interim solution. When i have the budget to do it, I will pick up a 295w Perlight panel and replace the current one with it..

kenbw2 · 2021-08-23 13:41:37

Looking good, you're a braver man than I am drilling holes in the roof lol

Good that the ridges give you a default air gap for the panel

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-23 19:39:37

Funnily enough it isn't on the ridges AFAIK. There is about a 5mm gap. The panel has four angle brackets on it, two per side. They then sit on the roof. I put a good dollop of stixall under them and a good dollop on top of them. I don't think they will be going anywhere.

The only holes I drilled out where for the roof vent and the gland box. The roof vent I used a 80mm holesaw, which was a pig, but as soon as i realised that lubricating the cut area made it easier, it didn't take as long. The gland box I just used the biggest metal drill bit I had, about 15mm I think and ran the cables through it. On my last van the only thing that ever leaked on the roof was the skylight, even after spending hours faffing with butyl tape, it still leaked. This one I won't be having a skylight, so its fine. smile

Today I have started on the floor tiles. I have also, kind of, finished the (comedy) bed frame off, but it still needs plywood attaching to the outside of the frame and some partitions on the inside. The toilet now fits under it.

I need to do the roof insulation tomorrow as I have been putting it off.

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-23 20:17:31

The bed frame and newly cut out toilet area.

The floor tiles, the bed frame and the toilet in place. smile

tee_cee · 2021-08-25 14:10:38

Pathfinder100 wrote:

Well it looks like the garage is struggling to find the reason why the turbo has low boost. If it hasn't been found by tomorrow I will probably pull the van back home. Order a copy of Lexia and the cables from ebay and maybe replace the Turbo pressure solenoid, which i believe is the wastegate solenoid. It's £35 for one on ebay. No idea where it is located, but guessing its somewhere behind the engine where the EGR and turbo are.
I believe its the EGR page in the DW10 Spec, component number 4 on the diagram. That would be my first guess. At least that's what a lot of sites say might be the cause. Checking it requires causing an open circuit, which I guess means unplugging the power connector.
@tee_cee, which Lexia/Diagbox is sufficient. Can I get the v7.83 which seems quite old. Like below?
Lexia3/PP2000 Diagbox V7.83 Interface Diagnostic OBD2 Chip For Citroen Peugeot

Checked my version and it's v7.76, which works well with my 2015 Expert. I believe that offline telecoding functions start to disappear after v7.58. Here is some info on different versions https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/wiki/D … 7.06_On%29
If you need to download the vmware image for this (and servicebox) here is a link https://1drv.ms/t/s!AnTXjZ-FNkL4n10PBxc … K?e=PLAQtP

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-25 15:54:04

Thanks for that. i am going to get it next month. For now I swapped out the MAF today and plugged my basic OBD scanner in and it says "No Codes", so it may be fixed. If it is, I will be very happy. But a little voice at the back of my head says it isn't. I won't know until I take it out later.

Just for confirmation. When you put the ignition on should the STOP light come on? Mine comes on along with the engine auto diagnosis light at ignition, but once the engine is started it goes off. I suspect their is still a problem. Also theirs an intermittent airbag system issue. Its definitely down to a loose wire, because it only comes on when parked on a flat surface. If parked on any sort of slope, it goes off after starting the engine.

kenbw2 · 2021-08-26 00:54:49

Pathfinder100 wrote:

Just for confirmation. When you put the ignition on should the STOP light come on? Mine comes on along with the engine auto diagnosis light at ignition, but once the engine is started it goes off. I suspect their is still a problem

That's exactly what happens with mine. I can confirm my XUD engine has no error codes wink

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-26 01:34:08

So I took it out for a spin and the problem remains. I still think its a hose somewhere. The problem is exactly the same as when the boost pipe on my Mondeo went a couple of months back. No power when revving and the turbo spins up but doesnt provide any boost. For whatever reason, the smoke pouring out of the exhaust at high revs has now stopped.

I'm gonna have to check every hose with a fine toothcomb. Their must be split hose somewhere. I don't think the wastegate valve is stuck open. If it was, then I would expect the turbo to not spin up at all when revving since no compression would be possible. I think a hose has split somewhere and the pressure is being lost elsewhere. I guess I will have to strip it completely and check everything, or maybe just start replacing all the hoses connected to the turbo until i find the right one. It would be sweet if you could access the back of the engine without having to remove half the bottom of the vehicle.

Also need to cripple the EGR with the ball bearing method or maybe a piece of dowel, since i don't currently have any ball bearings. That is unlikely to fix my current problem, but might help things overall.

Pathfinder100 · 2021-09-09 16:54:43

Yesterdays fun was the kitchen unit. I built it, but then everything went wrong (it didn't fit big_smile ), so after some compromises, this what I ended up with.

The bowl and cooker aren't mounted yet and the rain today has put pay to anymore cutting. So on to the next job. Leisure Battery and Electrics. Mainly its about mounting all my kit on to a piece of wood and then glueing and screwing it to the ply of my bed. It's fairly easy on the bed side. i have a single 130ah AGM battery, a VSR, a 30A MPPT, and a 12v auto distribution (the type that takes link fuses). Lights and similar are controlled from a fuse box on the other side of the van (connected via 8.5mm2 cable). At present it boils down to one 5.4w LED light and a selection of USB charger sockets and cigarette lighter sockets. Real basic level for now. i will be adding a second light and a spotlight at a later point.

The mains charger will come at some point soon, as I am in the middle of plumbing in the EHU. Mains wise its literally going to be a socket for general use, a mains wall heater and a mains 12v battery charger. I'm looking at getting one of these 400w wall mounted heaters to handle the heating side of things. Battery charger will probably be a 7-15A Victron to simplify integration when i go to Lithium.

tee_cee · 2021-09-09 19:20:44

For your heater, take a look at these.
https://www.weeklydeals4less.com/produc … dy-heater/
Small enough to fit under the seats, though the tilt sensor inside needs to be removed first.
Many people seem to go with consumer units for the mains, which I think is overkill. I fitted fused rcd spur which is tiny compared. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/S … HtEALw_wcB

kenbw2 · 2021-09-09 23:02:52

Oooh what' that you're using for a sink? Looks better than my dog water bowl

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