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Can't see a makers mark on my EGR. Pictures show EGR and the hoses that are blocked off with threaded bar, both are marked with red tape.
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Can't see a makers mark on my EGR.
I can, it's Bosch, like mine.
Red tape thingy... It's something else m8, dunno what, but not EGR.
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The two hosed with the red tape come from my EGR valve.
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The two hosed with the red tape come from my EGR valve.
Few worms to pop out of this
1- mine was wired (piped) incorrect, as one of those goes in to splitter box underneath LHS (passenger) wing, in front of the wheel.
2- yours is wired incorrect?
3- return plugged or not (don't know) what should go in to, but seems the way it's on yours- doesn't make sense.
Basically mine comes out of a vacuum pump, goes in to splitter, then one pipe goes in to plastic splitter box under the wing, then one (last) goes in to EGR, that upon blocking (clamping), given me braking back....
Last edited by AlvyLad (2021-06-16 19:57:25)
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Maybe different piping for different years.
My EGR pipes are both blocked and the engine is running well.
Don't understand about giving you braking back.
Last edited by scotchjoe (2021-06-16 22:36:42)
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Maybe different piping for different years.
My EGR pipes are both blocked and the engine is running well.
Don't understand about giving you braking back.
Was away, too busy to respond, sorry.
My problem brakes was the same, ever since I bought the van ~4 years ago, works fine on first pedal push or even breaking twice, if not quick or hard.
Long story now to repeat everything, but having had few things changed unnecessarily "final" conclusion stands(???), that my EGR is leaking (vacuum), as having it disconnected and pipe clamped up - bakes are perfectly functional for as many as fast braking pushes would be required.
Engine however isn't running well, whilst, when it had vacuum on - was perfect.
Could mean couple of things, one - it (EGR) is faulty or...
The whole vacuum system is wired (was when bought the van) incorrectly or even having new EGR it might be something else, as vacuum operated devices is "balancing act"... could be something like wrong way connected hoses causing the issue, not the EGR
from a suction pump hose is split in to 2
1 is servo
2 goes in to splitter box under the wing, comes back to the engine area
returned 3 goes in to something, that has foam filter like thingy under it
and 4 is the one, that was plugged in to the bottom of EGR, that is clamped off with mole-grips
can somebody or anybody see anything wrong, the way everything is plumbed up?
considering everyone else blocking EGR having had no issues with engine performance, but me, makes you doubt, if getting a new one will definitely solve both issues (a - loss of brakes, b- badly running engine)
thanks gents!
Last edited by AlvyLad (2021-06-22 20:36:45)
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Differences I can see from your photo's to mine...
Your vacuum pump has only two hoses on the connecter, mines has three.(what year is your van)
Your engine is very wet where the vacuum pump connects.
There are two o rings in the brake vacuum pump, maybe vacuum pump is leaking at one.
I don't think your problems are EGR related, as blocking it's hoses removes it from the vacuum system.
Possible that the vacuum pump itself is faulty.
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Check all vacuum hoses/splitters for leaks. You may have damaged the hose using vise grips.
Last edited by scotchjoe (2021-06-23 10:42:45)
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Possible that the vacuum pump itself is faulty.
Hi m8, it's 2004 and "new" SH pump, only just replaced couple of weeks ago, making absolutely no difference.
3 connectors out?
Seems as what I've suspected- something has been modified, "improved" that got me to this point. Can you do photo-guide for me, to what to look in to?
As it comes to engine being damp-oily, it's after the pump replacement only, but I doubt it could've made any difference, well it didn't.
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Check all vacuum hoses/splitters for leaks. You may have damaged the hose using vise grips.
Leaks, should've been eliminated, by now, having had very extensive testing many times over by 2 mechanics and myself, one of them did what your vid shows and was adamant it was leak, hence I was driving up and down hill 10 times, isolating one pipe after the other, until my braking on second pump become as effective as first, by blocking "4." , (that connects to the EGR), that brought suggestion of it being faulty, that after leaving him (mechanic), immediately got the engine to splutter whilst gaining revs... Which kinda means, it was funcioning better connected, than not, but was perhaps wrong amount of vacuum consuming by design?... (Could it have been messed up previously by connecting incorrectly or the unit should've been different cap- consuming less of the suction?)
BTW ordered one (SH EGR) last night from Germany, will be here whenever, most likely will not make any difference, replacing it.
Q- them clips- what's the proper procedure removing them, if no correct tools are about?
Cheers
Last edited by AlvyLad (2021-06-23 12:02:53)
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just lever them off carefully at the point where they lock. Carpenter pincers are helpful for reattaching them, but not essential.
The secret is being careful in the removal.
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just lever them off carefully at the point where they lock. Carpenter pincers are helpful for reattaching them, but not essential.
The secret is being careful in the removal.
Cheers,
EGR valve ('s) arrived ('s x2 of ... whilst paid for one, as one was filthy, other had broken 2.nd hose connector...) couldn't get main metal clip (of an exhaust) off without feeling it breaking or bending beyond breaking point- gone to the mechanic nr 2!
he goes- "you haven't isolated correctly vacuum, as one of the pipes still opens exhaust and causes splutter"
no worries, I thinks, cut bolts, inserted them deep inside the hoses and plugged everything back on.
Now engine is sounding little better, but damn brakes are gone again as for second braking...
anyway, the damned spare "new" S.H. EGR gets cleaned, connected (including wire) and does nothing, neither piston valve or butterfly type valve is moving from cold or revving up, but suction on the pipes (both)- you can feel doing something
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Me thinks- I'll block everything properly....
From the sucker (pump), now it's only split in to "1"- directly to servo as grey tape is acting as additional squeeze to smashed 6mm bearing ball blocking "2"
The bottom connector on EGR is isolated once again ("4") with bearing ball and taped up
so the pipe that goes to (from) "solenoid" (???) is blocked both ends (it was named "3")
Results?:
Engine runs so so, still uneven, rough sounding a bit, but better, than it was before, however not as good, as it has been before it was messed with pump and things...
Brakes... really good first pump braking, not great second time round (fast push) at all. Could it have been, what mechanic "1" overruled me on "having aged/bad fluid need replacing/ pumping through?" only, that was is wrong, need be done?
(Still have old pump (that wasn't needed to be replaced, but whatever)
Have both spare EGR's, one clearly has been busted, other clearly broken nipple)
any more suggestions gents?
Last edited by AlvyLad (2021-07-10 21:25:34)
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Did you cut the vacuum hoses to insert the ball bearings to block the hose?
I only have red tape on my hoses to remember me that they are blocked, the hoses have not been cut then taped up.
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Did you cut the vacuum hoses to insert the ball bearings to block the hose?
I only have red tape on my hoses to remember me that they are blocked, the hoses have not been cut then taped up.
No m8, sprayed bit of PTFE spray and pushed them in. Taped... For assurance, it's blocked, but to know it is so also, as per you say too.
Still, looking for crystal ball TBF now, as what it would be? ?
Fluid/ mechanics/ servo /master cylinder / connecting vacuum sucker directly to the servo ?
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Hi all,
Ok it's real simple, it looks like you are making this a lot more complicated than it needs to be. Just pull the two rubber pipes off the EGR valve and block them with a couple of m6 bolts, this will stop any vacuum leaks. No need to do anything else at all and don't put the pipes back on. It won't do anything to your brakes but it will fix your EGR problems. You may also want to take off your EGR valve and give it a clean out with some brake cleaner and a brush or cloth. This is just because it may be blocked up with black shite if its been playing up for a while. Get rid of the mole grips, they'll just split the vacuum pipe, oh yes and while you are at it throw away that awful hose clip that holds the big air inlet on to the front of the EGR valve and buy a simple jubilee clip of a suitable size.
NB. This is for DW8B engine with green cap on EGR valve. If your engine and EGR valve are different, you would have to experiment yourself.
Cheers, Griff.
Last edited by GRIFFIN (2021-09-09 02:04:18)
If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same
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@GRIFFIN yes mate, 100% correct as it comes to ERG and consequent issues with vacuum leaks etc and in general it being stupid "innovation" it's useless engineering, design and manufacture. Indeed, isolating EGR is the best thing for several/most models of these vans since sliced bread.
How to isolate?- several ways work, but both EGR connectors need be disconnected (pipping plugged back on or not.... doesn't make any difference) HOWEVER once van has run for a while with vacuum leaks and/or ERG membranes faulty(ruptured) it seems to make one or the other valve to NOT to open fully due to sutt build up. I'm certain it's weak vacuum that caused those issues in my case and fairly certain , that actual EGR valve now fully open and would function perfectly if it would've had appropriate suction to it.
I aught to apologise for a sort off hijacking the thread with my personal issue of "spongy/weak breaks", but indeed it has been issue of weak vacuum : sucker pump/piping/servo/EGR/(computer operated) solenoid chain-circuit of devices that only need one critical function- to power up brake servo, the whole circuit for EGR is utter nonsense.
Once again here (in this thread) I aught to explain, that once I isolated all but the pipe to Servo and having run engine warm-cold few times, the ERG valve opened up- engine runs fine and brakes are good.
Once again, my issue most likely was caused by two (both) sucker pumps being identically "inefficient".
Once again, thanks for all the help gents!
Last edited by AlvyLad (2021-09-11 16:31:03)
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Hi guys
My MK1 2006 1.9D Dispatch is having this exact issue, so I'm going to try the workaround proposed by Griffin. As this thread is a couple of years old I just wanted to check how the workaround performed longer term, and whether I should be concerned about anything before I proceed?
Thanks in advance.
Mark
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workaround performed longer term
Thanks in advance.
Mark
(A lie), but I believe, my van lost 2.5 HP since I owned. Might not seem much as in normal vehicles, but considering it had 10 HP to start with it is big deal of a performance difference
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cobbsy99 wrote:workaround performed longer term
Thanks in advance.
Mark
(A lie), but I believe, my van lost 2.5 HP since I owned. Might not seem much as in normal vehicles, but considering it had 10 HP to start with it is big deal of a performance difference
Thanks for the reply. Do you think that was related to the removal/blocking of these 2 pipes or perhaps something else? Just trying to get a handle on whether I should go ahead with this or not.
Cheers
Mark
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I've gone ahead and removed and blocked the pipes I believe are the correct ones, with M6 bolts:
I won't be driving it for a couple of days, so I'll hold off test driving as while I'm sure the pipe shown in the first image above has been done correctly, I'm not sure the second one is the correct pipe given previous posts/photos in this thread.
Any advice would be gratefully received!
Mark
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Just adding an update to say that this worked exactly as expected - the issues I was having previously have all gone. I'm now going to look at cleaning the EGR valve, after which I'll reconnect the hoses and give it a test.
Mark
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I'll reconnect the hoses
Why?
I'm sure you've heard - "not broke- don't fix it"
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Why?
I'm sure you've heard - "not broke- don't fix it"
![]()
I prefer "If it ain't broke, fix it till it is"
2000 Citroen Dispatch 1.9TD XUD9 Camper Conversion
1999 Citroen Dispatch 1.9D DW8 Disassembled Camper Conversion
1996 Peugeot 806 1.9TD XUD9 Spare vehicle
1998 Citroen Synergie 1.9TD XUD9 Snapped timing belt
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AlvyLad wrote:Why?
I'm sure you've heard - "not broke- don't fix it"
![]()
I prefer "If it ain't broke, fix it till it is"
hence one of the best s4itposters on this board
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