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(reminder, that all-any radio standard positive terminal is mixed up on Pugs (and Citros), power on and start needs be switched around to standard pin slots.... fidly job)
Code for £12 is cheap, I've paid £30+ for
Pug Radio not Clarion- a lie! be it disguised in different livery, it still is the same Clarion Radio
No brainer, fit the new one of fleabay for £30+ or with rear cam, butHOW's rust enjoying your van, will it get next MOT, will it be longer than few months for jobbie?
I didn't need to switch the terminals for this one as it was the original stereo for the van - swapped them over for the last stereo easily enough. I have small fingers and persistence!
Rust needed patching up for MOT - I haven't looked at how much needed doing but it passed so we are all good for another year ?
I found the code! It was written in one of the manuals - not the stereo manual which would have been the obvious place for it.
Anyhow. So I tried a Bluetooth cassette tape converter and it worked great for 2 hours then the tape deck started screaming. I was like, I remember this noise, when the spools get stuck.
Not great.
So, that's been returned and hopefully I will have more capacity to think about a replacement now I've got a big event out of the way.
Sigh, my cd player has died so I've reverted to the cassette player that came with the van and have discovered it needs a radio code. Which seems ridiculous now, given how much technology has moved on.
It's a Peugeot radio, not a clarion sadly, so the clarion exe I found on another thread didn't work!
The only place I've found so far that recognises the serial number wants £12 for the code - and it's another tenner for a Bluetooth adapter, so I'm wondering if I just ditch the oldskool approach and go for a £60 stereo with reversing camera instead ?
Perfect, thank you!
Hi folks, my Speedo is getting more erratic - I use satnav for speed so it's not been an issue but with my MOT coming up I realise I should probably get an aftermarket one to cover that
Any recommendations of ones that will help pass the MOT?
Thank you!
Ok, van has sold now ?
Can you post a picture here of the engine?
Sadly not, I keep getting error Bad referrer - I've tried on 2 different phones.
I can send over WhatsApp or email?
I realised at Y reg it's unlikely to be a 1.9TD. It'll be the DW8 1.9D, right?
The guys at the garage said it was a turbo diesel. Logbook says EL 1.9D?
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it … 477962975/
I can get £200 for her for scrap, she's been stripped of things I can use - good speakers, working glovebox ?
Power steering needs looking at, and one of the injectors.
However there's also number of very new parts on her - exhaust, brakes...
Have been offered £350 from someone who hasn't looked at her yet.
Sadly the aerial hole started to leak and I've not had the opportunity to dry her out so there is now a small amount of rust forming in that heel hole in the rubber matting
lol, I used to have it on-off most of the times
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … hp?id=1780
Best you could do is to make sure none are gets in, so no need to dry after, but as it comes to drying, that is a mission to do and a big one at that, especially when it's not nice long warm summer days...
Carry on, best of luck!
Thanks Alvy, that thread is useful! Not for the drain holes as I've already located those, but...
Caspers suggestion of the seam as possible leak source and seeing pathfinder cutting out the mat to get to the rust. Way more likely than me being able to get the seats unbolted and lifted.
Curious if pathfinder's velcro solution worked in the end!
Thanks tee_cee. Yeah I found the drainage holes, they are now much cleaner than they were though there's still room for improvement.
Have opted for a dehumidifier off Amazon that's arriving tomorrow so will see how that goes.
I couldn't upload the photo yesterday, not sure what's up with that. The bit where the pollen filter is? There's still water in there so I'm tentative to declare it fixed just yet.
Will try sealing the windscreen next just in case.
I am now investigating buying a dehumidifier ?
Any recommendations?
You say that, but I've got at least a couple of pints of water out with the microfibre towels method which is making it lighter and more manageable for me to handle.
Sadly I've also found a lot of rust bubbles under the driver's side, and after a rain shower I can see there's water in the bit above the scuttle so unsure I've solved the initial leak as yet.
New van has had leaks come through in both footwells with the recent heavy rain, and it took me longer than it should have done to resolve given I had the same issue with my old panda
I've cleaned out the scuttles today so I'm hoping that's sorted now, however there is so much water absorbed in the foam from the recent rain, I can't fathom how to get it out and dry given I can barely lift the side of the mat with all the weight.
Wondering if simply cutting it out in small pieces and starting from bare metal is the best course of action, or if that's overkill?
The alternative I'm considering is to get towels in under the mats to soak up the water ?
No signs of rust as yet in the areas I can see so it's possible this is the first time it's happened to this extent.
Thoughts?
Thank you, that's reassuring to hear - I shall investigate further
I've got a more urgent issue currently which is the footwells turning into a pond.
Have cleaned out the scuttles but there is so much water absorbed in that foam from the recent rain, I can't fathom how to get it out and dry given I can barely lift the side of the mat with all the weight.
Wondering if simply cutting it out in small pieces and starting from bare metal is the best course of action, or if that's overkill!
No signs of rust as yet in the areas I can see so it's possible this is the first time it's happened to this extent.
I'll do a fresh post in case others have input on the matting situation!
My scudo is reaching the end of its life - it drives well in a straight line but really big noises when turning, and with oil all over the engine bay I've been advised it's only a matter of time before the engine goes.
So, I have a slightly newer dispatch that I've been transferring the camper set up across to. Discovered it's got some new features like an adjustable steering wheel, a fuel gauge that actually works, and the engine doesn't sound like a bag of spanners. Win.
However, the main sliding door I use (passenger side) can't open from the outside and unlike the Scudo it doesn't have central locking. Is it worth me investigating taking the central locking off the old van? Is it easier to start from scratch with a new kit? Does the dispatch even have the wiring loom for installing central locking? It came with a keyfob but that just seems to activate an alarm, there's no electronic locking mechanism in the doors.
Welcoming your thoughts and learnings around this
I've discovered the temperature gauge is yet another dial that doesn't work - it does show a lower temp but once it gets to just above 70 that's where it stays. Thankfully we didn't overheat but the coolant was bubbling loudly when I stopped...
I've been offered a MK2 dash, I'm guessing they don't fit the mk1 though?
So, I poked tissue in various places to see which bits got wet and discovered the sliding rails were the main culprit.
Took the door sliders off and found a crack in the seals, so have removed and replaced with CT1. I know there's still a bit coming in at the top, but this feels like a good start
Further update - it doesn't solve my particular issue, but may be useful for others
it's designed so you turn the seat around when you park up, and turn it back when you drive off. And when the seat is forward facing it needs extra bolts to hold it in place; from what I can tell you need to crawl under the van to do them up.
Mobility issues make this a no for me. I was hoping for a way to have the seat backwards most of the time, and I imagine it's possible to adjust the design to make that work, but I've put a halt on this idea for now.
Regarding parts -they include links to all the parts they suggest.
No, the evidence only showed up from the door runner downwards..
It's not rained since I discovered the puddle (yesterday!) though perhaps a hosepipe will help things along.
I'm considering attacking the seam where the roof rack attaches with silicone sealant to cover that particular base. I'll add the top of the side panel to the list!!
So, I finally took the ply and insulation off the second side to refit it and discovered a pool of water in front of the wheel arch. No rust, just a bunch of snail poo, and an old shell. Annoyingly there were a couple of dribble trails that I wiped off before I discovered this, so I have a vague idea of where it's come from but not an exact location.
Are the door sliders runs known to leak? Because that's where it seems to have stemmed from. 

Update on this - and damn, I missed the porn spam!
I found the website and it was £20 there rather than£25 - website overall looks solid if a little outdated (which can be a good sign as it's not likely to be genuine!)
Have chatted with the staff and feel confident it might solve my issue, so will hopefully be trying to fathom out the guidance over the next week or so.
If I don't do it their way I hope to have better awareness of the solution that will work for me. Will update!
Thanks Reg.
In replacing the blown bulbs I also took the odo lead off and replaced, and I've magically made the odometer work so suspect I've wiggled a wire or de-oxidised a contact in just the right way for that to come back to life again ?
Which makes the fuel gauge a lower priority again for now, however I'll get looking at what you've suggested soon, many thanks
Excellent! Those have the same gaps I have.
Thank you!!