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Great job, but under £80??? Eh?
I can't seem to find any swivel plates for cheaper than a new set- £200 for a pair. I don't want to buy some new seats, I want to keep the same seats I've got in now because they're great- same models you've got Casper- not too soft not too hard so I can stay awake when driving long distance. Any tips on picking some up cheap eg where/what to search for etc? I was also thinking about taking out the low bit of bulkhead in mine but the holes in it makes a pretty good anchor point for a safe, so do you get more space taking it out? Because the seats are on the same mounting point right? And they can't go back any further because of the dashboard...
My mate randomly turned up with some spare LED bulbs to replace the interior lights in the van. Popped them in in 2 minutes and was pretty chuffed with myself. Now when it's dark at night and I open the door I'm half blind because the cab lights up like I replaced it with a floodlight. Hmmm. This is my van, there are many like it, but this one is mine.
Roof Bag, sounds like a great idea. I'd love to keep my roof rack, and I like going on the roof every now and again, but in all fairness, I haven't used it once for carrying anything since I bought the vehicle, it's big, it's heavy, increases height and obviously massively adds to drag, reducing the mpg. Something easy on, easy off sounds like the best of both worlds.
That's a nice neat job. I also like the idea of keeping the rear side light as a mate just gave me LED bulbs for those and they work well.
Celiing- Similar for what I've done/doing on the walls- thermawrap, cellotex (25mm for ceiling) thermawrap and then hardboard plywood. Yeah, wondering how it's going to go in the corners, whether to have the walls go to the top and do the ceiling a bit shorter or the walls a bit shorter and the ceiling a bit longer on the overlap...if that makes sense. See what happens, don't suppose it's too critical which overlaps which.
Cheers Guys,
Everything is taking ages and I'm getting impatient with things, sometimes I just think "sod it, crack on". I'd already insulated the floor with thermawrap so couldn't be bothered to take it all up again, wipe off all anti-rust stuff and glue down battons, then put it all back etc. Instead I marked out where the upper ridges of the floor were and screwed short countersink self tappers. Battons definitely looks like the proper way to do it. I'll take that approach on the ceiling as I was wondering how that was going to go. Seem to be finding a pattern emerging- as soon as I lose patience and say "sod it, crack on"- things go wrong! Nevermind, I've done a good job of making Swiss cheese out of my floor and managed to make it home without losing the breaks or fuel tank so maybe I got away with it.
Hi all,
Conversion coming on ok. Got a question about screwing in the floor without puncturing the break lines, handbrake or fuel tank. Any good tips or possible maps of the underside vulnerable parts?
Is there a best way to do this? And what size screws going through 9mm would you recommend. Cheers- this is one I haven't been looking forward to.
Will
My 2.0 HDi is regularly returning about +45mpg on average over about 1000 miles on wide mix of urban and motorway with average driving behaviour (ie smooth changes but occasional faster driving). This is with a substantial roof rack and completely empty van. So I think it's very impressive considering it's a 2004 vehicle. It's also notably higher than the expected mpg in the handbook- when does that ever happen?!
Right, I need a new cambelt, fan belt, water pump, service, fix rear doors, remove bulkhead, replace throttle actuator, first things first, get that radio out and a proper one in! Love that you did that first, I did exactly the same thing.
Hi all,
Wondered what folk think about FASP swivel plates vs replacement seats with built in swivel. I like the seats I've already got in and they're in pretty good condition for their age. Trying to pickup replacement seats is proving difficult and they're likely to be pretty knackered if they're 10 years old.
Although, I can't find FASP plates for less than £200 for the pair. Which seems like quite a lot of money. Especially considering that replacing the seats I can sell my existing ones for about £80 and bring the cost down.
Will
Hi everybody,
Thanks for the welcome, info and links, great stuff. Got the rear cab down to the metal and it looks ok, so pleased about that and looks like I've finished this round of mechanical repairs (service, new cam belt, fan belt, water pump, rear door catches adjusted, replaced third party throttle actuator with proper peugeot one) hopefully- which in the end it has brought the cost up to what was expected. Bought kingspan type insulation for floor, roof and side panels, wondering about vapour barrier. Friend said to use partially permeable membrane rather than plastic, but not sure where to source that from, maybe he meant the roofing stuff. Do I stick the kingspan straight to the metal skin? Wow the whole "how to insulated you van" is a simple question with enough answers to completely bake your noggin. Wondering where to get front swivel seats from in Yorkshire. I also put a couple of things together today and it dawned on me that if someone wanted to break in, upgraded locks or not, all they'd need to do is break the front/passenger window and they can clear out the entire van. So I'm thinking about a steel/aluminium tool chest somehow anchored to the bodyframe. Also about those metal roof boxes to put on the roof rack, which would give me extra room inside. Anyone use those? Steel are cheaper, but weight a ton. I'm also conscious of increasing the height of the vehicle, if I make it might higher with boxes, I'm gunna get nobbled for higher charges through Eurostar and ferries I think.
Cheers,
Will
The radio doesn't switch on when the ignition and battery is switched off- so surely that means the wrong cable is connected like you say, and I need to find this hidden permanent ACC+ cable.
Yeah, it is weird. It reads 12V on the multimeter when the engine is switched off and goes into the correct connector described in the head unit manual and in the vehicle handbook. The cables were both pink, no red or yellow. Like you say, maybe it needs both the battery and permanent, but at the moment it's only got the permanent not the battery- nothing in the connectors below 6. Could be the radio, could be the fact it's only got the one power source, could be something iffy with the battery connection.
Right so, unplugged the stereo and there's no battery connection that switches off with the ignition, only the permanent connection from the battery. And we volt tested it and it's 12V. So, the right cable is connected, otherwise the radio wouldn't even switch on. It seems that the stereo remembers its connections for a minute or two, but any longer, three or four minutes switched off and it's reset itself. Strange, must be something to do with the battery maybe.
I have the exact same problem Tiree, would try the solution of swapping the cables in my Peugeot 2004 Expert, but being an electronic ignoramus- if they aren't the same, am I going to blow up my new stereo?
Hi all,
Hope you're all well. Great to eventually find such a forum. Met a mate and noticed he'd completely converted a Peugeot Expert into a wicked little camper and said he gets 38mpg. Then noticed another mate had one for work. Funny how these vehicles are completely invisible until you actually start paying attention to them. Then they're everywhere! Bought a Peugeot Expert 2004 2.0 HDi last week. Thought it was too good to be true (2004 [old version trim], 80,000 miles, clean, ex-bread delivery vehicle, good bodywork, 2.0 HDi, fresh MOT- £1500) so I expected to have to shell out for something. Last owner had reset service light. Took in for service- sure enough, not been serviced in years, filthiest oil filter he'd ever seen, new cambelt, new water pump, speaker blown left side, rear doors pop open every trip, heater doesn't work, engine light on accelerator/throttle. Got cigarette lighter fixed. Mechanic says heater is a problem with the controller- so told me to get a new one second hand. In the meantime they wacked up the level, so it's either hot or hot! Which is good because before it was just cold. Maybe this will help others, mines a controller problem- needs new dashboard controller, meanwhile maybe you can get the level wacked up for the winter.
So yeah, hungry to transform it into a camper but also want to keep the space flexible for work, loading, moving stuff etc. Mate got one of these beds installed and it's wicked http://rocknrollbeds.com/ he paid less but prices have gone up a little £295 for bed with belts and boards. We travelled up to Scotland and back I was on back seat, no complaints, great bed setup. But for me it's gunna be too heavy and bulky to take in and out all the time (45kg). And after expensive service I'm going easy on the cash for a while. He's got details on his conversion so will try and upload when I've got those. He put in Peugeot 806 front swivel seats, trying to find those because that's a great idea, seem to be hard to find online.
Keen to hear about insulation advice and ideas. Thinking about double sided bubble foil next to metal skin with sheeps wool then vapour barrier/not vapour barrier. Also, installed a new stereo, but, every time I switch off engine it loses power and resets the whole thing, anyone else have an issue there? Would like to connect up to remotes on steering wheel but not essential. Radio is Pure H270SB so need to find and fit a replacement DAB aerial. Will probably sort out when put in electrics and extra battery.
Locks are another issue. Central locking works on passenger side but not on driver side and central locking fob won't work, despite putting in fresh battery. Friend says he only uses remote fob central locking. Good idea to save the barrels from wear, except how do I get a new fob that works with current key without going to dealer and paying hundreds? Also, friend's Expert was robbed- cost him £4K in high end DJ gear. I know these locks aren't great, and there's some really really sharp thieves out there so it's obvious they know too, so any help with that much appreciated. Heard you can swap out standard barrels for ones that can't be popped out in 5 seconds. And affordable or recommended central locking kits much welcomed. I plan to travel deep into Europe, Balkans, etc, but I do carry expensive equipment so I do need to amp up security as much and as subtle as possible. Adding big bulky locks to the outside is gunna wack up insurance and draw attention, might be necessary evil though. Maybe interior safe bolted down?...
Thanks for reading and I hope I can contribute,
Will, Holmfirth
http://tezla7.tumblr.com
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