The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

AlvyLad wrote:
I'd change battery first, starter next, possibly alternator, as those "sluggish to start" up issues are commonly stem from

Thanks for the reply. I have to admit I am a bit paranoid about diesels not startng/glowplug issues, having to be rescued on-site with non-staters in the past Thinking about a past experiences a guy came to my aid with a Perkins Landrover conversion with twin batteries, hooked up to my van with huge jump leads......stated instantly! So I'm thinking first job change the battery!

Thanks for the reply What does BPGA stand for?

Would it be possible to turn the relay on with a suitable scanner, could you point me in the right direction?

The van usually starts reliably in cold or hot weather but lately, it seems a bit reluctant, I just thought I would eliminate the glow plugs while the weather is good, once started it runs fine

Thanks for the reply I had advisories (discs and pads) on the last MOT just getting prepared. Some sliding pins have rubber parts that need lubing with silicone otherwise the plastic swells causing them to bind

Thanks for the link it worked hurrah!!!

Hi Tee_Cee I'm in total embarrassment I've managed to delete the file Could you put the link up again, I'll take a screenshot of it in case my laptop has a hissy

Thanks for the link but I get a message saying the file has been deleted

Thanks for the reply, the battery voltage is fine but it's a good point. I can live with it as only intermittent and only affects the passenger door. But it's irritating having to remember to check it every time I lock the van, I would like to get it sorted, a wiring diagram would help or a description of what all the wires are on the locking mechanism. I dought its a fault on the CanBuss as it only affects the passenger door, with no warning lights, the door open light operates correctly

Thanks for the reply Ive been looking at other DPF threads, It seems that Peugeot 308 use the glow plugs to boost the temperature, I suppose it could be an increased electrical load as the mirror heaters, the poster seemed to be implying it was a direct heating effect, I can't quite see this myself. Just a thought, there's not glow plugs fitted in the DPF itself by any chance?

Well I was disappointed finding out how complex "modern" auto electronics are becoming and knowing I would need to keep the battery charged, as I don't use the van regularly. Having a fear of BlackBox tech I researched the subject as best as I could, being retired I have time to indulge myself! https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … s/wink.png

Take care disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, the Electronics don't like the battery being disconnected! Best to do a search for the correct procedure. From memory, this involves opening the driver's door and flipping the latch (so the ECU thinks it's closed) or opening any of the other doors or switching anything on, you then have to wait a few minutes for the ECU to go into sleep mode Bear in mind you won't be able to lock the doors with the key fob after the battery is disconnected

I seem to think the book says to remove the positive first, which seems to go against the general wisdom, its a quick release type so no spanners to short out. The space is very tight take care you don't put the leads and electronic components under any undue strain lifting the battery out. The leads should be put out of the way so they cant come into contact with the battery terminals you could wrap with dry rag

Reconnecting, again from memory flip the door latch reconnect leads with the key in the ignition but not switched on, turn the sidelights on, now turn the ignition on, and hold down the fob lock button for a few seconds. Remove the key try locking and unlocking the doors you should now be good to go!

Good luck.... Mick