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Glad to hear there are still a few of the old faithful vans (and drivers) about.
A year without mine, still running the Honda but it's never been right. Even lashed out for a main dealer!
They all say that the problem is that the software to trouble shoot isn't available in the UK.
It has many things that are, technically speaking, far superior to the Expert.
But the only one I really need and appreciate is the auto gearbox. My legs are knackered.
If its just the radio you need, there are radios built into cassette cases which play via the tape heads to the stock speakers. Quite common 30 years ago but rare now I suspect.
I use a similar one to allow me to play from an mp3 player via the cassette.
Another option could be a cassette-to-BT converter and play radio from the phone?......https://tinyurl.com/mv743esh (I don't know this one in particular but they all look quite similar.
If the BT connection is stable enough, it should output as good as the head can manage. Better than it could ever do with cassettes, I suspect.
It's very quiet around here lately but hopefully someone will have some info.
I did have a driver's handbook from a 99 built-2000 reg which I think had exploded drawings of the various interior.
Unfortunately, it must have gone with the van. You might find something here:-
1.9TD is a rare beast. Where is it located?
Northstowe, Cambridgeshire.
It is a difficult choice to make when when you don't know if it would be a fix anyway.
You need to consider the value of the van, both in fixed and in as is condition with the fault. If the gap is very large, it may be worth a bit more of a gamble. But if it would only add a few hundred £, probably not.
Personaly, I would go for a used one from an established ebay seller who states on the listing that they accept returns. If they clearly say they accept returns, ebay themselves will intervine and take the money from sellers account if they resisted.
Try it and if no fix, clean it up and return it. You bought a used part, and returned a used part.
Are these the standard ones for MKII's
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FIAT SCUDO / PEUGEOT EXPERT / CITROEN DISPATCH CUP HOLDER
2007 – 2015
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186878802024 … =view_item
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HOW much???
If the current cupholders could have an adapter, to move them away from the dash would be great. I guess they are so far forward for the versions that do not have elec windows
In my MK1 they didn't clear the winders when in use anyway.
They also fired scalding coffee to the roof lining if the door was slammed.
The wide mouth of standard paper cups hitting the door jamb.
Apparently, (according to AI):-
AI Overview
Fuel Pump assembly For Citroen C8, Dispatch, Synergie 1489083080, 0986580261 | eBay UK
On a 2010 (60 plate) Citroën Dispatch, the diesel lift pump is usually located on the engine block, before the secondary fuel filter, driven by the camshaft. To diagnose and find the part, identify your specific Dispatch engine (e.g., 1.6 HDi or 2.0 HDi)
Then:-
AI Overview
A 60-plate Citroën Dispatch does not have a separate "lift pump" in a submerged tank; instead, it uses a single, in-tank electric fuel pump that is submerged in the fuel and feeds directly to the high-pressure fuel system. Problems with the pump are indicated by difficulty starting, stalling, or engine juddering. To find the correct replacement, you must input your exact model and engine specifications into a vehicle parts selector on a website like Mister-auto.co.uk.
This and the info from Haynes seems a bit contradictory to me. I would be asking a dealer.
Also... Strange that it only appears to have one power feed?
Although I have seen some pumps which are in a housing which incorporates the level gauge so this may explain it.
I must admit the stock interior light, do leave something to be desired. I have toyed with the idea of using led strip/rope lighting and running it down the side of the van
I think that they are more decorative than useful. Fine for background lighting, but too much spread for cooking or working.
Almost all cab lights will take some kind of LED replacement bulbs, and these give a lot more light than the originals. Not a nice light though, so more suitable for working than relaxing.
I haven't a clue myself, and it tends to be quiet here over weekends. Hopefully someone will know.
Long shot, but how about letting a parts dealer or even Citroën dealer do your research? Try and buy a lift pump for that chassis number. They should have access to manufacturer's parts lists.
There are a also a couple of sellers for in tank lift pumps for Dispatches on ebay. You might get lucky and find a knowledgeable one. There is little point them pushing you one that doesn't fit the quoted model as they would have to pay return postage and refund.
And of course you don't necessarily need to buy one if you don't need it.
Another thing to consider might be any associated relays. I would expect to hear some clicking from them.
Well I can't explain how but it was definitely a large part of the problem.
Still need a new throttle return spring to set a consistent tickover and I think it should be ok.
Well!
Seems like the fridge draw may be a part of the problem. I was working on other stuff today and had to nip out for some silicone. I forgot all about having disconnected the 12v to the fridge but felt the difference on starting. It ran smoother and actually pulled away with care. Previously, it required warming to full operating temp before trying.
I am beginning to think the temp may be a red herring though. It may just coincide with how long it takes the alternator to get enough charge into the dead battery to ensure reliable running.
The plate on the fridge says 60watt. I wouldn't have though that would have troubled a 70 - 90 watt alternator?
Anyway, I would expect an over discharged battery not to draw anything at all. Like when you connect a charger it usually fails to even detect a battery or refuses to charge it. Perhaps alternators aren't so fussy?
Any thoughts, corrections welcome.
Strange you should say that.
Another issue I have is that it keeps running down the leisure battery. It is being charged by split charge, but 100ah is dead flat next day. Someone had wired the 12v fridge direct to the leisure battery!
So it was under extra load from the dead battery, and the fridge draw on first startup each day. I wouldn't have thought it was sufficient load to cause stalling but will see in the morning.
Could it be that this clutch is somewhat seized causing extra drag on a cold engine that's just above stall, causing it to stall?
My initial thought was drag. First indication of course was instant stall when put into drive. Suggesting too much drag for the cold engine. But it had no sign of wanting to creep.
I also found it stalls with any electrical demand, turning the wheel was quite a surprise, as was indicating!
If it was an older vehicle, I would go straight for a failing alternator under load, but with ecu's, sensors, anti emissions, etc, who knows.
The guy I went to see down south had the proper Honda software and that didn't find anything. He did a full reset (whatever that means), stopping, starting, running up to temp. Didn't seem to make any difference. This leads me to think it's mechanical, but I am only clutching at straws.
I see Honda and 2000 and I think auto box but what model and spec would help
petrol? deisel? 2WD? 4WD? stuff like that
Stepwaggon - petrol injection - AUTO - 4wd
2.0 K20 engine i-VTEC (Honda Civic Si, Acura RSX, Honda Accord, Honda CR-V)
It's a complete mystery. I don't even know how much electronic control there is. It is 2000 so didn't expect too much, but something weird is going on. Being an import, I can't even find basic info on the engine.
I wanted to do an under heavy load alternator test from cold. But of course it reads 14v or so, then goes dead when the engine stalls, telling me nothing at all.
I think I will try an alternator swap but they are not cheap, and they are tricky to get at.
The response of main dealers has been unbelievable.
I describe this elsewhere in my post pleading for advice.
As I mentioned in another post, I am struggling with a very odd cold start problem on my Honda van. Four mechanics, 2 dealers and two old school, have had a go with no progress.
The dealer I actually used charged £140 for 1 hour's diagnosis and any fix that could be done within that hour. No diagnosis, but he did fiddle and try but no improvement. Since then, their reception doesn't answer my calls or emails.
The other one was even worse. After explaining symptoms...
On a cold start when ANY electrical demand (open window, turn wheel, press brakes, indicate, etc, etc.) is made, it causes an instant stall, seemingly caused by electrical supply shut down. All is ok when full operating temp is reached.
The manager, no less, suggested it was an auto gearbox problem. I think because engaging drive also causes stall. Unlikely as it seemed to me, I asked about them investigating and diagnosing. He said they couldn't, as they farm out all auto gearbox work. I realise that this may be economically justified for them, but I would have thought it a matter of professional and brand pride, to at least be able to diagnose a fault in one of their own products. I explained this to him, exchanged a few more words and left.
The issue is complicated by it being an import not sold in Europe, and so dealers don't have the software. Also, once warmed up, the issue doesn't occur so you only get one try at a fix per day.
I am wondering it there is any possibility it might relate to dodgy alternator output? Could it be incapable of delivering required output at low temps and low revs? The output measures ok before any electrical demands are made.
I realise this is way of topic here but know there are some good mechanics about, any ideas?
That's unlucky! I hope you manage to get the problem sorted sooner rather than later.
At a bit of a loss as to who to try. I will have to get it done before winter though.
Mechanics, like most things, aren't what they used to be.
After finally having to get rid of my expert which had been virtually perfect apart from wear and tear for 7 years, I spent over 3 times what the Expert cost me for a Honda with a fault that four garages haven't been able to fix. Including a main dealer!
Love it apart from the cold start problem, and lack of power plus low mpg compared to the Expert. But it's cost me as much in mechanics bills in 6 months and still not fixed.
Well done. Wait until you need to get into the rest of the dash. 
Isaac_Blanc wrote:OAT wrote:You could use one of those short chrome extensions.
I'm reluctant to make the exhaust longer for fear of messing up potential wave tuning in the exhaust and therefore reducing efficiency. I may be massively overthinking though.
To be safe then, an oversize one shouldn't impact pressure but still deflect?
I have done it with older vehicles no problem but share your lack of confidence with the sensitivity of more modern stuff. So long as there is no damage done though and a performance issue was the only drawback, you could soon remove it.
kenbw2 wrote:Bloody hell I know Mk3s are modern but I didn't know you could install these in them
Only you could make that joke Ken. Had me going though.
Thinking, "It's only three self tappers!"
OAT wrote:You could use one of those short chrome extensions.
I'm reluctant to make the exhaust longer for fear of messing up potential wave tuning in the exhaust and therefore reducing efficiency. I may be massively overthinking though.
To be safe then, an oversize one shouldn't impact pressure but still deflect?
I have done it with older vehicles no problem but share your lack of confidence with the sensitivity of more modern stuff. So long as there is no damage done though and a performance issue was the only drawback, you could soon remove it.
Also, if oversized, it should direct without affecting pressure?
Bloody hell I know Mk3s are modern but I didn't know you could install these in them
Only you could make that joke Ken. Had me going though.
Thinking, "It's only three self tappers!"
You could use one of those short chrome extensions.
Or even find a bit of scrap that fits near enough.
He hasn't posted for a while.
The relays are widely available though. Tend to be about £10 - £12.
Generic parts so no number, just search for "lights-on buzzer relay".