The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

Dunno mate, they'll let anybody in here nowadays
I've noticed the place has really gone downhill since I joined.....

The Expert OEM numbers above are from the actual part I bought.
Dunno what's on the belt, it was fitted a while back and all can I say it works.
I did look at the label on the ECU and that was blank so no help there
I think I'm correct in saying the 16V's have a second cam shaft driven by a chain from
the one driven by the cam belt so may well be a common size.

One thing that does piss me off about these vans is no easy access to info
No Haynes manuals or workshop service manuals that I can find and as they're largely regarded as obsolete and abandoned now, probably little chance of finding any.
I did buy and download what was offered as a 'covers everything' manual one which was a rip off really
and is a pita to use as it runs XP of all things in virtual machine.
Even when it is up and running it's not totally useless but clunky and more parts than procedure oriented
The wiring diagrams use Citroen or PSA conventions which can take a while to extract useful info out of.
I'm no stranger to all sorts of wiring diagrams and schematics but they're not fun to use as I had to keep cross
referencing stuff to build my own files out of them and convert compressed svgs to jpgs and such
Did I say not fun? they're a PITA

I'm told mine is a 16v too
Apparently the 2.0's come in  8v and 16v but I have no idea how to tell the difference
It does say RHZ in the VIN which might have some significance

I got the Gates timing belt and water pump kit fitted shortly after buying mine in April
and gave it an oil and filter change too

I'm pretty pleased with it so far, it goes well and gives just over 50 mpg on a run

I bought myself one of those folding ramps for when I want to stuff a bike in mine
I got the loan of one a while back to get a mates scooter in for the MOT and it made it very easy
Wingnut looks like he's got a classic wee Vespa
1960's? 150??

that chart doesn't have a van option, according to that I have a cabriolet!
and the site is useless unless you're registered which I cba to do

I'm not new to vans but fairly new to these and leaky doors seems to be an issue with some
I sealed up my RH side door and glad I did as it's given me more useful stowage space inside
so rain ingress and wind noise isn't an issue.
I have had a few drips on the near side door though and had to tinker with the sliders and mounts

I'm a bit surprised it's a 1.9D ( not even a turbo?) for that year
it seems a bit retrograde as I assumed they'd all have the 2.0 engine by 2006
or at least a turbo.

Hello
I had to look up what a WAV conversion was
(wheelchair accessible vehicle)
Ahh I see, this probably explains why it has such low miles on it
Looks tidy though and 36K is nothing for these as they can reputedly clock up
big miles if looked after.

I'm new to these vans myself and have a 2006 2.0 HDI Expert
No posh electric windows or mirrors but I do have air con
which is nice.
The central locking is pretty easy to test and check, I fixed two of my doors a while back.

6 hours from Manc to S Wales?
Did you get lost or stop at every services for tea and buns?   

I'd check the black plunger has free movement first to ensure it hasn't jammed down
if not, I'd whip the PCB out and check across the switch contacts to see if it's stuck in the closed/ON position.
If so, switch cleaner may help or desolder it and solder in another PCB momentary switch.
If the switch is open and the hands still rotate, then the fault lies in the clock circuitry
this may or may not be easily fixable

A pic of the PCB would help

Looks like a typical no frills alternator to me
the 150A only specifies its load capacity not voltage which should regulate
at 14-14.5V ish
You may have just been sold a wrong un, it does happen but first
I'd disconnect the battery and do a continuity test on the main power cable
from the alternator to the battery terminal
Then the same between the battery ground terminal to the alternator body
because if it isnt properly grounded, the regulator cannot properly determine the voltage to regulate at with respect to ground.
next I'd check the alternator power output terminal isnt short to ground
you may get a few megaohms of internal leakage but anything else is suspect.

With checks done and all cable and contacts checked and cleaned
measure/note the battery standing voltage and connect up only the original components
( no add ons or other gadgetry) and run the motor and read the voltage across the battery terminals.
My 2006 2.0 HDI runs close to 14.2V mostly with some minor drops (say 13.9V) if under heavy load
If you're not getting close to this I'd suspect the alternator is faulty
and suggest you get the alternator checked or return it

BTW £290 ?? jeez that's a lot of dosh, I saw a 150A Hella one on Ebay for £150

If a key in the drivers door activates the CL I doubt its the fuse
as I don't see a fuse purely for the RF side of the system.
If you want to look, I see fuses F8 and F9 supply unit 8630 the
'passenger compartment protection unit'
I'd have called it the 'central locking control unit' meself but meh, what do I know?

Did you actually test the new battery before fitting it?
IIRC My fob had 2016 cell in there which I managed to replace with a good quality 2032
when I renewed my fob as it has much higher capacity.
Also check you didn't lose the wee transponder chip when you were fiddling, I did that but
luckily noticed it drop on the floor and grabbed it sharpish.
(yeah i know that doesn't unlock the doors, but its easily done)
If the above is ok you may need someone to check the fob is actually transmitting as they can go wrong and the
switches especially will wear out eventually so  I'd be checking those too.

OK, thanks
I'll remove them and see what size they'll take
as my stereo will drive 4 speakers