The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

I actually already have two different keys.  The back/sliding door lbarrels either don't work or someone has glued them.  They all have deadlocks on, but the central locking still works  The front locks work, but only the passenger door will work correctly (which is getting annoying). 

I did wonder whether to just stixall the plastic trim around the barrel to the handle trim as that seems to be whats spinning.  But from past days I think the actual problem is the mounting clip on the inside that holds the barrel in place.

Worst case i will get 5 new barrels and replace them all, but for now I would prefer to have the front door locks working.

Tomorrow, assuming the weather holds, is rip the back bumper off day.  I need to do some more rust proofing.  I know those box sections at the back are rusting badly on all sides (including the bumper side), so removal of it has become a must.  I will be treating with Kurust and then spraying with some Plastikote 4-in-1 Anti Corrosion Spray Paint I picked up at Toolstation.  Then when dry, brush painting with Hammerite

Second part of the day is finish the insulation off.  i have a bunch of high temp spray adhesive.

Beyond that I have 10m2 of 4 way stretch carpet.  I've been warned its a complete bastard to do, but that's hopefully happening on Tuesday (and maybe Wednesday).  I am only doing the walls and doors for now, as I need the solar panels up and mounted before I can do the roof area.

I have a power steering issue, a whirring noise, youtube thinks its air in the systema dn i am going to try a video I watched the other night that suggests putting the front end in the air, taking the cap off the power steering fluid reservoir, starting the engine and turning the steering wheel fully from lock to lock until the air comes out of the system and then top it off with fluid.  Hopefully that works.  If not the pump is buggered and I need to get that replaced.

Its looking like a busy week of van conversion tasks.  Also its going into the garage to get the turbo sensor issue resolved at some point.

Does anyone know how to fix the spinning door locks issue?  Is it a broken mounting clip?  Had a similar problem on a Fiesta long ago and it was the barrel mounting clip that had come off.

Guessing that trip took a while at around 40mph. 

Its the one thing I miss with my van.  Only 5 gears.  But it does mean I will probably drive it slower to get the fuel economy.  I don't mind shooting around at 50-60mph these days.  Especially if the MPG is really good. I will probably drive less on motorways or drive on them at night instead of day.  I know coming up the A1 the other week with the van was mildly pleasant in comparison to the crazy M1 driving I normally do.

So anyway, on the oil topic, it turns out there is a sticker under the bonnet on my van that lists oils that can be used.  It states 5w40, but i know from much reading 10w40 is also viable, so 5w30 would be middle ground and fine too.  ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5, C2 (which is the low saps stuff I think).  My Ford oil is ACEA A5/B5 spec and at present it has around 4.5L in it.  In a couple of weeks or a month I will drop it and replace with some high end Castrol 5w40.  It was in a bad condition the old oil.  Obviously not serviced for years.  Diesel filter will be sometime later this week.  Then its going to a mechanic next week to get the sensor issue fixed.

A fix is a fix, regardless of how you get there.

Those other parts that arrived, I would consider putting them in at some point, but not until after your holiday.

Wickes angle brackets, most likely, its how I did the panels on my Transit. The picture below was of my secondary charging system that kept the vehicle battery topped up, but all of the panels were done the same way with 4 angle brackets per panel.  For the Perlight I will probably go with 6 brackets.  I will stick it down with Stixall most likely (which is what i used for that 20w panel and it was a major pain to get off the other week after a year on the roof).  I ideally want to avoid bolting through the roof, but might do anyway.  It depends on placement.  Will definitely need to fit a gland box for the cables.

The van roof dimensions are (according to the Mk1 Dimensions Thread), 1m wide by 2m long (roughly).  The Perlight panel is 1.5m long by 1m wide, so will easily fit with 0.5m of space behind it for a roof vent.  If I also consider the height, I should still be able to keep the total height, just under 2m.

The panels I currently have are 100w and were purchased from an ebay shop called TripleSolar.  At the time, they were the only place that would deliver panels (at the start of the Covid pandemic).  They work well for the size.  100W Mono Solar Panel  They aren't cost effective.  Until I get the Perlight I will be running 2 of them side by side on the roof.

I was really only planning on using the Ford Spec for engine flushing purposes.  Put it in, run the engine for a day and drop it the next day.  I wouldn't be changing the oil filter until the Ford stuff was out.  Then I would be putting some Peugeot spec oil in and a new filter.

I don't suppose you know what grade oil the gearbox takes?  I would like to do that soon as well because I don't think it has ever been done.  I found a thread on JustAnswer for a 407 2.0 HDi that suggest 2.6L of 75w80.  Failing that would it be safe to use Castrol MTF 75w80 or 75w90?

I will be doing insulation on Tuesday now.  i finally got the ply up in the load area and it needs some work, filling in holes and  a full coat of Hammerite for all the rust spots.  Once done it will get 5mm closed cell foam/foil, then the ply board will go on top, then floor tiles to finish it.  Side walls will be getting 10mm of closed cell.  Doors will be getting 5mm of closed cell and bubble wrap.   I might fill in any gaps with expanding foam.  But I haven't 100% decided on that yet.

As for the electrics, I have a VSR (Voltage Sensitive Relay) at present and I am running a 130ah AGM Lead Acid battery (optimised for deep cycle operation), so for now I don't see any need in grabbing a B2B (Battery to Battery / DC to DC).  I just need to get a 16mm cable down to the VB (Vehicle Battery).  EHU (Electric Hookup / Mains) will be handled by one of those camping all-in-one boxes (breaker, 3 sockets, USB and long cable).

Their is nothing wrong with using a CBE PC100.  They are generally pretty user friendly.  if it works for you and is fit for purpose, then that's sweet.  It makes life a lot easier in some ways. 

If the van was a bit bigger I might have considered for myself something like this All-in-One that Epever do.  30A MPPT Solar Controller, 1000W Inverter, Mains Battery Charger and Mains Auto Switchover in one box.  Epever 12v 1000W UPower.  When coupled with a 200ah Lithium battery and 30A B2B, you would probably be set for most situations.

If it was in a battery box, surrounded by closed cell foam insulation and had a couple of heating pads wrapped around it, you could probably use the Vehicle Battery to heat the Leisure Battery, by running the heating pads from a temperature relay that only fires up when the internal box temp is below say 5C.  You could put a switch to a timer inside the van since you don't want it running all the time, just maybe in the morning for 20 mins to warm everything up on exceptionally cold mornings.

Or the alternative way is to bring the battery inside the van.  If you are inside it, its unlikely to get to 0C insdie.

That's a pain, as I do have electric windows.  Does anyone know what the alternator output is on these vans?  On a transit it's 160A, but these vans only have a small Ah battery, so I am guessing its much lower, maybe 60-100A.  I might have to look to a B2B instead of the VSR, just to make the most out of any limited power if it is limited.  My current VSR is rated at 100-140A (since it was bought for a Transit). 

I would be looking at probably getting the Victron 12V 18A B2B.  Coupled (initially) with a 130Ah AGM battery and 300w of solar, it should suffice for most things I need to do.  At some point down the line the AGM will be replaced with LiFePO4, but for now I have a pretty high quality Leoch SLCA AGM.

It may become my semi, full time home from September.  Once I get back to college I plan to travel back and forth as little as possible.  Ideally i will find a campsite near college and commute while I'm up there.  Coupled with a gym membership so I can get a shower everyday and work out.  I just need to minimise costs this year as much as possible.

So anyway, even though i still have this wastegate solenoid malfunction, the van still drives fine and if I keep the speed to 50mph (drive it like a lorry, slow and smooth) or so it doesnt smoke.  Obviously come next MOT it will need to be fixed, but that is not until next year.  So for now my only immediate concern is the timing belt.  Once thats done, we'll see.

I'm going to start building the insides this week.  Its going to be carpet lined because I can't be bothered with anything more complicated.  Cheap floor tiles for the floor (or lino if I can find some).  Don't have the diesel heater yet, but will do at some point.

Not a chance in hell.  The van was a former window cleaners van and was kitted out for such a job, including that 500l tank, a high pressure pump and a 130ah battery (that he couldn't even be bothered to wire to a VSR).  But that will all be getting sold in the next week or so.  I already have a much better leisure battery (Leoch SLCA 130ah AGM)

As for the bulkhead bottom, i might leave it in.  it affords me a place to bolt the bed to that is fairly sturdy.  The two passenger seats are also staying in on this build.  At least for now.

My plan is something like a bench seat bed on the passenger side and a small unit on the otherside with a cooker and wash basin.  Table integrated somewhere.  12v electrics, diesel heater, etc.  Really low key and minimal.  Also will have mains power, but via one of those camping all-in-one units (3 sockets. usb charger, circuit breaker).  I just need it to run a charger for the leisure battery if i've opted for EHU at a site and maybe a kettle.  Or even an oil filled radiator if im using it in the middle of winter.  But in the summer I doubt I will use mains very often.  Whatever goes I want to keep the roof (plus any solar or vents) to less than 2m, so I can get into all those car parks with 2m barriers.