Engine Oil

Pathfinder100 · 2021-07-27 13:52:49

I have some Ford Spec 5w30 Fully Synthetic left over from the Transit. Would I be ok to use this for short term use in the Expert? I'm looking to put it in, use the van for a week and drop the oil and replace with ACEA C2 or A4/B4 spec, ie, use the Ford stuff as an engine flush.

AlvyLad · 2021-07-27 14:40:35

not even a Friday lol
AFAIK 5w30 FS is above requirement... if anything viscosity of 10w40 should be more suitable (or is for mine non turbo DW8 engine)
ANW, plenty to read up about parameters
https://www.oilspecifications.org/psa_p … itroen.php
https://www.micksgarage.com/d/engine-oi … 5/products
these days there are available correct oils (meeting requirements and above), fully synth (5L) at £17 onwards, perhaps as a flush, will not harm, but I don't see the point in doing the job twice hmm

Pathfinder100 · 2021-07-27 16:41:16

Yeah mine is the 2.0 HDi, it requires either 5w30 or 5w40, depending on the site you look at, ideally in the C2/C3 spec, but you can also A3/A4. As long as its mid saps, fully synthetic. I'm not worried about the DPF getting clogged at present as it will be changed in the next week or two, but doing a 1-3 weeks oil change and flush could be useful as I suspect an oil change hasn't been done on this van for a while (judging by all the other issues i'm finding).

Anyway i have 10L of Fully Synthetic 5w30 A5 spec oil, perfect for Fiats and Fords (and Land Rovers).

kenbw2 · 2021-07-27 16:51:39

I just checked my owner's manual, and it lists 5W30 as one of the valid options. Notably mine's a 1.9TD, so maybe check yours. But seems legit to me

Pathfinder100 · 2021-07-27 17:00:31

Mine didn't come with a manual. But both ebay and Euro suggest 5w30 or 5w40 as viable options.

vaz2121 · 2021-08-01 11:26:20

For a week or so top up I wouldn't worry to much oil is oil ... and of course better than none.....

Being a multigrade oil and .........
My Van is also a DW8 and the W in 10W/40 means winter and the 40 is viscosity when hot .........

So 10W/40 is 10 viscosity behaviour on a cold winter morning when oil is cold and a viscosity behaviour/thickness of 40 when up to temp............

So yes I'd say you'd be ok putting 5w/30 in for a top up .............

Fully synth oil was developed [and not a particularly cheap option then to achieve] during the second world war basicly for aero engines so the oil wouldn't break down through hours of prolonged high temp/risk use [from available chemicals and mineral oils] in turbo/supercharged engines and of course early jet engines and oil technologies have come a long way since then ............

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-02 03:24:32

I was really only planning on using the Ford Spec for engine flushing purposes. Put it in, run the engine for a day and drop it the next day. I wouldn't be changing the oil filter until the Ford stuff was out. Then I would be putting some Peugeot spec oil in and a new filter.

I don't suppose you know what grade oil the gearbox takes? I would like to do that soon as well because I don't think it has ever been done. I found a thread on JustAnswer for a 407 2.0 HDi that suggest 2.6L of 75w80. Failing that would it be safe to use Castrol MTF 75w80 or 75w90?

vaz2121 · 2021-08-02 10:02:43

I would imagine being an HDI as opposed to my DW8's be4r G/box YOUR's should be a ML5C G/box ................

This is the a image of a rather grubby ML5C G/box .........
Which has some identifiable differences over my be4r box.........
I also have a 306 which is fitted with a DW8 and a be4n box IIRC ........

All 3 Boxes from memory will take 1.9L of 75w/80 oil ....
And with a complete oil change with G/gox in situ in vehicle it was discovered after draining box it was easier to use breather point on top of box to refil with the two Litres of oil and a tube Molyslip for some future operating assistance [Remember to remove filler plug before removal of drain plug]

As for using castrol oil .....I seem to remember especially on the 306 [Although both it and Van have had box oil changed at some point] getting a reasonable quality 75w/80 [Don't remember specs or if GL 4 or 5 other than 75w/80] and putting it in and that will be 4 or 5 Spannish trips or in the region of 9 or 10 years ago and roughly 80,000miles ago [with it now on retirement duties] and is still on same G/box which lost all it's oil bar about half a cup if that and was still in Daily use [and some 3 or 400 mile trips then also] for god knows how long prior to realization of issue ...........

And as for using 75w90 ... being a slightly thicker oil and not quite to spec although Iv'e never used it ........
I would imagine what you may notice if anything is a stiffer change ..............

So using 75w/90 would really be your choice...........

Long term I can't comment ... Nowadays it's the additives that make a difference But as Iv'e said one or twice before oil is oil and is better than nothing at all

I've come across an owner or two trying diffrent oils usually lighter [even ATF] in the manual box of their E39 M5 BMW to try and solve the stiff balkish change into 2nd in their car.........

{Some of those E39 owners have instead of I think it was 10w/40 but using a 5w/30 oil in the engine instead and being happy with result especially in winter}

Last edited by vaz2121 (2021-08-02 10:05:23)

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-02 12:13:36

Thanks. Next time I have it up on the ramps I will look at the feasibility of changing the oil in situ. I don't really fancy dropping the box due to the other amount of stuff that seems to need to be removed prior to doing it, although at some point I will need to do it as mine is pretty worn (gear stick movement is really loose) and maybe in the next 50-60k will need a replacement box and clutch . If I can put this off for a year or so i will be in a better position to find one and fit it.

vaz2121 · 2021-08-02 12:48:11

The really loose floppy gearlever feel is more likely to be the gear lever or in my case gear change cables needing replaced .................

There is a thread on here somewhere about that very subject .........
I've changed mine now unfortunately twice ..............

Casper · 2021-08-02 22:25:45

vaz2121 wrote:

The really loose floppy gearlever feel is more likely to be the gear lever or in my case gear change cables needing replaced .................
There is a thread on here somewhere about that very subject .........
I've changed mine now unfortunately twice ..............

Last weekend i went down to Manchester to collect a van i won on ebay (LDV Maxus) Description was sold as seen as needs a new gearbox as 5th and reverse does now work. One of them cables is left and right motion so i was thinking poorly adjusted cable. Ended up the cable was well buggered but got it home and packed the cable eye out with rubber and low and behold its working big_smile Wish i had the rubber with me as i drove home with 4 gears. 19 bloody MPG and being a jock it killed me lol

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-04 12:07:18

Guessing that trip took a while at around 40mph. wink

Its the one thing I miss with my van. Only 5 gears. But it does mean I will probably drive it slower to get the fuel economy. I don't mind shooting around at 50-60mph these days. Especially if the MPG is really good. I will probably drive less on motorways or drive on them at night instead of day. I know coming up the A1 the other week with the van was mildly pleasant in comparison to the crazy M1 driving I normally do.

So anyway, on the oil topic, it turns out there is a sticker under the bonnet on my van that lists oils that can be used. It states 5w40, but i know from much reading 10w40 is also viable, so 5w30 would be middle ground and fine too. ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5, C2 (which is the low saps stuff I think). My Ford oil is ACEA A5/B5 spec and at present it has around 4.5L in it. In a couple of weeks or a month I will drop it and replace with some high end Castrol 5w40. It was in a bad condition the old oil. Obviously not serviced for years. Diesel filter will be sometime later this week. Then its going to a mechanic next week to get the sensor issue fixed.

Pathfinder100 · 2021-10-01 00:07:28

Well it will be D-Day for the gearbox oil change on Sunday, assuming the oil arrives tomorrow. i ordered 4L of Mannol Fully Synthetic 75w80 from Ebay and bought a tube of Moly Slip. On Sunday i will get it up on the ramps and change the oil. My intention is to fill it from the breather hole since I have no clue where the filler hole/bolt is (and can't find any pictures or vids on its location).

Is it better to premix the oil and moly slip prior to adding it to the gearbox or should I do the oil then squeeze the moly slip through the breather hole?

Pathfinder100 · 2021-10-03 17:54:49

Did the change today. Needed an 8mm square drive socket, which I didn't have, but Halfords did. Bit of trial and error. I started out by pulling the wrong bolt out, twice. Eventually worked out which one it was. Dropped the oil and it was in a bit of a bad state. Black/brown with a weird smell, probably burnt. I refilled it with 2L of this (Mannol Fully Synthetic) 75w80.

4L MANNOL MTF-4 Getriebeoel 75W-80 API GL-4 - £24 for 4L seemed a good price. I have enough spare to redo it sometime down the line. Maybe when the odometer says 250,000 miles

I also squirted a tube of Moly Gearbox Protector in after reading a previous thread on gearbox oil changes.

Moly Gearbox Protector - Halfords £9

Is the correct amount 1.9L or 2.6L? I put 2L in for now.

vaz2121 · 2021-10-09 12:41:17

Gearbox quantity is a good question...................
I'd say your fine with the 2L in it I've yet to come across a car derived gear box we'll call it thats taken more than 1.9L on it's spec sheet.............................
All the gearbox's on car and smaller van stuff I've filled over the years has ended up at the 1.9L mark both the 306 and van [especially the 306 as it was all but empty at one point] got gear box oil changes and a tube of molyslip added....................
Also if marked as 1.9L I've always dumped 2L in and with a moly slip on occasion without issue [I dont think it's an exact science but around the 1.9L is good enough].............................

IIRC the fill level and drain plug on [these] FWD boxes are behind the N/S wheel on G/box end plate or diff housing [Both even]................
It's not always easy to identify the correct bolt ... Lowest is usually drain or an Alen type stud/s................
I usually add the molyslip then g/box oil but after the oil is fine too .............................
{The Graphite in MolySlip doesnt half darken the oil}.................

I've a 4X4 Lada that I've had for 26 yrs and it has a 5th speed extension on box over the tougher 4 speed version I put an extra 500ml in it to help the splash lube of 5th but had to make sure it wasn't gl5 oil i used in it plus a tube of moly slip [Took out gear lever for extra 500ml to go in].............

Last edited by vaz2121 (2021-10-09 12:46:51)

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#1 2021-07-27 13:52:49

Engine Oil

#2 2021-07-27 14:40:35

Re: Engine Oil

#3 2021-07-27 16:41:16

Re: Engine Oil

#4 2021-07-27 16:51:39

Re: Engine Oil

#5 2021-07-27 17:00:31

Re: Engine Oil

#6 2021-08-01 11:26:20

Re: Engine Oil

#7 2021-08-02 03:24:32

Re: Engine Oil

#8 2021-08-02 10:02:43

Re: Engine Oil

#9 2021-08-02 12:13:36

Re: Engine Oil

#10 2021-08-02 12:48:11

Re: Engine Oil

#11 2021-08-02 22:25:45

Re: Engine Oil

#12 2021-08-04 12:07:18

Re: Engine Oil

#13 2021-10-01 00:07:28

Re: Engine Oil

#14 2021-10-03 17:54:49

Re: Engine Oil

#15 2021-10-09 12:41:17

Re: Engine Oil

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