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Its more than likely remnants of an aftermarket install.
Best and easiest solution is to buy new as per Caspers advice and link
Silkaflex eh?
right
I see no real need for 2 side doors and devising a plan to seal it up
I think they must have used something like Silkaflex on the previous boarding out and it was sod to remove
and I was wondering what it was
OK, thanks
I've been looking at the rear doors today and saw the NS wasn't catching at the top and
this may have contributed to noise at motorway speeds and the odd rattle I get.
I'll monitor this and devise something more substantial if I have to.
I'm seriously considering sealing up the OS door for various reasons how did you do yours?
I think they're having an effect but not sure.
I had to go Chippenham and back on the motorway and was more aware of noise coming from
the rear load area than just above and to the side of my head.
The stickies may soon fly off in the wind for all I know but it's worth a try
and I'm also aware the rear doors not fitting as well as they could which will cause some noise too.
I suspect this could be an ongoing project for some time.
In order to cut down wind noise and streamline the van
for more exciting performance I have added some stick on deflectors
to the door edges.
The results are amazing!, the pounds have fallen off and I now have
a full head of hair and (at long last) attractive to the ladies.
You too can have a body like mine, just send me a ten shilling postal order
for my secret to success.

Been on a shortish run and all's well so far
Nice to have a heater that will actually heat when I need it to.
I did the pipe mod a while back and tried to use a hose to flush it
then but it didnt have much if any effect.
I reckon the 1.5 hr soak and circulation of the Wynns probably softened it
prior to the hose flush
Well after rinsing the bubbly stuff out, the flow from the drill powered pump
didn't look that good so got the hose out and flusheD it one way then another.
This seemed to dislodge a load of brown crap which was encouraging
and as the water cleared there were still gritty looking particles in it
so I kept going until I saw no more particles.
Result? time will tell but I have system now if I have to do it again
I'm currently running the motor to warm it up, check for leaks and and burping it.
the temp gauge is currently at 65 and the heater has been putting out hot air
consistently for 10-15 minutes with no discernable drop in temp
so that's very definite improvement!
This week I are mostly been reverse flushing the heater
I cut into then added a straight coupler to the supply pipe
so the pump is pumping out of the heater supply pipe
to the bucket the gets sucked back into the core via the out pipe
I used a whole bottle of Wynns snake oil on the bugger and added few kettles of boiling water to try get some de-crapping action going.
I'm currently cycling a few minutes of circulation and letting it soak for 10 then more pumping and so on
its been an hour or so and soon I'll swap it all for clean water.
I'd flushed the cooling system previously but wasn't sure the Holts jollop
was getting into the heater core, so trying this method.
It's definitely circulating and quite well too but not sure how good
it should be and what flow rate to expect from this cheap Ebay pump
I'll try and evaluate this when rinsing

Mine doesn't have a service light per se so I probably gave a misleading description
When the ignition is turned on, the odo displays a spanner and number for
a few second before displaying the actual mileage
I think mine was around 1300 IIRC
This will eventually count down from the current 20000 I have reset it to.
I'll look into doing a gearbox oil change soon
2L of 75w-90 and some moly eh?
good to know, noted.
2006 2.0 HDI turbo
I just reset the service light as it's had a new cambelt kit, oil/filters etc
and will probably do oil/filter changes at 10 thou and cambelt at 50 thou
I was wondering if I didn't and waited for the service light to come on
what are the factory service intervals?
Edit:
Its OK, I just started it and see it's reset a counter for 20,000 miles
That's fine, it wont be nagging me anytime soon.
As I said above, personally I'd probably Kwik or JB weld it in and be done with it
Kwikweld is as strong as JBweld but sets faster and has the same chemical resistance but
only likes temps up to 120C compared to 220C ish for JB weld.
I've always got some about and among other jobs, have used it to fix a few radiator fan switches to bike radiators and it stayed on there for years
Most engines don't go much above 80-90C unless there a problem
So after yesterdays ballache removing panels with torches, magnet fishing, endoscopes and struggle,
I gave up and left it in bits and this morning took the van out to fetch some bits and bobs
wires and stuff dangling all over the place.
As soon I pulled out the lane, guess what dropped on the floor?
Yep, that wee socket and extension.
Oh you F&@%£"~~ little B*&^%$£!! says I, all that sodding about and all
I had to do was drive it round the block!.
Well at least I wont be driving about wondering wtf happened to the thing

Yeah go on, rub it in.
You with yer two vans, sunshine and all 
us soft southern barstewards are freezin our nuts off right now
what happened to summer?
Another 10 minute job?
yeah right
I was moving the phone mount (circled in green) and dropped a 1/4" drive short extension and 8mm socket down behind the clocks and removed half the dash and buggered if I can find the bloody thing!
I even got the lappy out an used the USB endoscope camera to try and locate it
Sod it, I'm seriously pissed off and have better things to do and its not that special anyway
so it can damn well stay there if it wants to

I've pulled half the dash apart atm but later will look on the sedre thing and see if it lists that O ring
but measuring the outer diameter of the elbow and inner diameter of the pump hole will give an idea of what size
to use ( with lashings of loctite or similar semi setting sealant of course)
Mind you, I must admit if it were mine, I'd be sorely tempted to just clean it, de grease it and get some Kwik-weld/JB weld in there and be done with it if its unlikely to be needed to be removed again.
Changing the that hose clip with a jubilee clip would allow for future pump or hose removal.
Edit:
I Looked on the Expert and Scudo parts files and the pump come up as a complete unit on both
No sign of the elbow being seperate or having an O ring
When I first saw it I thought "push fit? surely not!"
then went out and looked at my recently bought 2006 2.0
and I could see nothing to suggest it was otherwise.
It's obviously the supply pipe from the fluid reservoir
so not under pressure, but even so would still expect a certain level of security
so will keep an eye on mine.
I assume that red thing is an O ring?
I'd give it a good clean/degrease with alcohol or similar and use something semi permanent like loctite to fix it back in, maybe a new O ring too if its suspect
I have 'Peugeot' PU-2294A here that came with the van which looks identical
and has a 4 digit number written in sharpie on the top, presumably the code ?.
Didnt bother to test it.
It was tucked behind the drivers seat as it had a Pioneer stereo in there when bought
and can only assume it was being kept to be reinstalled when the van was sold.
The central locking was only working on both the front doors and the near side sliding
door.
I looked at the rear door and found both wires had broken off I think due the lining
that had been fitted had been crushing them in the tube when the door was closed
I lashed up some flying leads to test for function and it worked fine
so laid in new 2 core cable through the tube, made connections and that's now working.
I haven't looked at the OS door yet but did test for power at the door frame contacts
and got inverting power so the problem is on the door.
I saw some evidence of previous lash ups which I corrected while I was at it
fault finding testing is straight forward with a meter
There is a common Orange and Violet (purple) wire to each lock motor
powered by something like an H bridge affair which flips polarity
from lock to unlock.
When locking, the Orange will go positive and the Violet negative
in relation to each other, Unlocking gets the reverse
Unless you have a sample and hold meter, this will happen too fast for your meter to display or you to see but holding probes on the contacts and pressing the fob buttons, my meter did tell me when it had detected a positive or negative voltage so that was all I needed to know for my cursory tests.
Today I got so peed off with my bit of wood falling out
the near side door and it slamming shut
I made up an impromptu catch from available bit and bobs I had to hand.
It's made from various bits of ally I had knocking about and
I cushioned out the catch area with hot glue to stop it swaying about
I had to beef up the trap part with half a steel corner brace under a 5mm rivet as
I realised the thin alloy plate was too prone to bending and so far so good.
Long term it my need to be upgraded, but for now its working just fine
as a 'door keep opener thingy' (technical term)
It allow me to use to door as I would with the original catch
and captures the door when opened, allows me to open it fully
then close it without any further fiddling.

I've been looking at Kens wind deflectors in detail and apart from
admiring the paint job, thinking of making my own.
is that all they are? just strips of shaped plastic stuck
on with sticky pads?
The taper makes them a bit more complex but it aint rocket science as they say
BTW I also see a deflector fitted in the window channel
As I understand they're mostly useful for when driving with windows open
or do they also help cut wind noise when windows are shut
I has Aircon y'know...........
Ah ha!
Those wind deflectors can you still buy them?
If not, where do you live, what time do you go to bed and have you got a dog?
I'm wondering if there is some aftermarket stuff I can press into service as deflectors
and on the hunt for options
Door seals could probably be padded out with soft rubber or foam perhaps
Hmm interesting but I get the concept, I'll try that.
Brand new cambelt kit fitted recently, fresh oil and filters too
so it should survive a bit of welly
The last time I blew through a heater I blew on one of the hoses and watched as water, then air bubbles came out of the other hose.
Interesting, I did try to blow out any remaining coolant to make room for a strong dose of rad flush but
had to stop when the involuntary farting and dizziness got too bad
I couldn't shift it at all, not a drop!
I reckon it's time to remove the heater core and see what's what and will check the hoses as well
As I recall it's 2 screws and 1 bolt on the pipework but close to the fuse board so may have move that
Anyone done this?
2006 facelift van
On a run it cruises easily at 70, engine is quiet
but the wind noise is appalling
I have read about this issue and wonder if there are any
current tips, tricks or bodges to alleviate this?
It dont have to be pretty!
I'm seriously considering using gaffer tape when I go up to Middlesbrough soon
and thinking about sealing up the OS door anyway, who needs two side loading doors?
This bloody heater saga continues....
So now I've flushed the cooling system, run 2 cans of rad cleaner through it and fitted a new thermostat and fresh coolant and anti freeze
I even cut the heater supply hose and fitted a connector in order to flush it on its own which I did twice both ways.
I did get flow but this was at 2 bar which is a lot above normal running pressure and doesn't necessarily mean all the channels are clear.
I checked the thermostat housing temp with my IR thermometer and it tallies with the gauge within a degree or two so I reckon the gauge is OK
I took it for a run and it mostly sat around 80 but got up to 90 in traffic
I tried the heater on hot but it just got cooler the more it ran
When I got back one heater hose (supply) was too hot to touch
and the other (return) just warm.
This says poor flow/restricted heater core to me despite the rad flush
and I'm looking at a new one.
BUT
Probably grasping at straws here
I did use the bleed screws on the thermostat and top of the rad to get air out
but wonder if there's a particular method that has to be used?
I just opened them until bubbles stopped and a continous flow emerged
any other tips & tricks before I start spending money?