cooling system

RegW · 2024-06-06 14:27:43

This bloody heater saga continues....
So now I've flushed the cooling system, run 2 cans of rad cleaner through it and fitted a new thermostat and fresh coolant and anti freeze
I even cut the heater supply hose and fitted a connector in order to flush it on its own which I did twice both ways.
I did get flow but this was at 2 bar which is a lot above normal running pressure and doesn't necessarily mean all the channels are clear.
I checked the thermostat housing temp with my IR thermometer and it tallies with the gauge within a degree or two so I reckon the gauge is OK
I took it for a run and it mostly sat around 80 but got up to 90 in traffic
I tried the heater on hot but it just got cooler the more it ran
When I got back one heater hose (supply) was too hot to touch
and the other (return) just warm.

This says poor flow/restricted heater core to me despite the rad flush
and I'm looking at a new one.

BUT

Probably grasping at straws here
I did use the bleed screws on the thermostat and top of the rad to get air out
but wonder if there's a particular method that has to be used?
I just opened them until bubbles stopped and a continous flow emerged

any other tips & tricks before I start spending money?

roopid · 2024-06-06 20:37:32

The last time I blew through a heater I blew on one of the hoses and watched as water, then air bubbles came out of the other hose.

I vaguely remember that even 1 psi would be quite high for human lungs, so I wonder what could be restricting flow enough to need 2 bar!

I'd expect rad flush to shift any gunge, so is there a kinked hose, or a valve hidden somewhere?

RegW · 2024-06-06 22:38:22

roopid wrote:

The last time I blew through a heater I blew on one of the hoses and watched as water, then air bubbles came out of the other hose.

Interesting, I did try to blow out any remaining coolant to make room for a strong dose of rad flush but
had to stop when the involuntary farting and dizziness got too bad
I couldn't shift it at all, not a drop!

I reckon it's time to remove the heater core and see what's what and will check the hoses as well
As I recall it's 2 screws and 1 bolt on the pipework but close to the fuse board so may have move that

Anyone done this?

JohnDragonMan · 2024-06-06 23:32:37

i hate to say it but you need to spin the pump up as fast as it will go.. and the only way to do that is to give it an MOT style red line test. i do do it to my van every so often just to keep the engine clear, i remember after i did it with mine the low coolant light came on, i thought i blew a hose but it was an air bubble somewhere that the high flow pushed out. i backed this theory up as i heard "air in a water pipe" sounds under the dash when i gave it the beans as it were.

im not really a fan of screaming engines but this did work for me.. just dont do it if you suspect your cam belt is old.

RegW · 2024-06-06 23:43:57

Hmm interesting but I get the concept, I'll try that.
Brand new cambelt kit fitted recently, fresh oil and filters too
so it should survive a bit of welly

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#1 2024-06-06 14:27:43

cooling system

#2 2024-06-06 20:37:32

Re: cooling system

#3 2024-06-06 22:38:22

Re: cooling system

#4 2024-06-06 23:32:37

Re: cooling system

#5 2024-06-06 23:43:57

Re: cooling system

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