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https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … php?id=786
Merlin, this was a bit of fun about MPG, my 2002 2.0hdi is still doing great at 170,000
Hi all, great ideas thanks,
DragonMan, like the idea of colour temp and dimmer etc, (I better not get too carried away as I mainly need the lights to load/unload the van
) I'd prefer direct 12v rather than a controller, but then again it's worth looking into. Yeah the stickiness was a thought too how it holds up.
OAT, I saw that some have 'chips' for each LED and you can cut them and use the rest of the tape, primary is to light the van practically (I know I am going to get carried away with this and probably fit multi colour if I am not careful) Reliability is one thing, but they won't be used for continuous lighting. I also thought about sealed diffuser units to fit but went away from that due to knocking them loading furniture etc, strips would be right for the job as flush (ish) to the roof beams and unlikely to hit?
Casper, Yep, I looked at the link and they look good, just know I would break them loading, I have some research to do on the ones you linked to (whore houses, never thought to ask them, good excuse there for further ideas)
Good stuff guys, any more info great, this is now eliminating my wide initial questions
Hi all,
I am intending to put LED lights in the back of the van as the interior light is rubbish. I wonder if anyone has experience of this tape like LED reels, and if a driver/ballast or whatever is need to power it.
I am gathering together a kit for the back of the van to provide a sort of 'hot batt bus' unit to provide for lights, usb outlets and 12v cigar lighter sockets, 12v positive and neg terminals to power anything with convenience. ie phone charging, interior lights, plugging in a tyre inflator and such like, inspection lamp. or any other gadget that needs a socket, maybe a fridge when going camping (only for the journey as I will install a 240v hook-up at a later stage)
Its the LED tape I need more info on.
Update 2: Ok this is starting to get a bit much..... water pump leaking! So here we go again, booked into the garage next Friday for that and the cambelt of course... Not doing cambelts myself, not on the level of evilness the damned machine is showing me, it's gonna get fix whatever it feels like throwing at me!
Zippypilot wrote:(is this mad or now have I caught the Dispatch bug?)
Can it be both? Are they the same thing?
I am now in the mind that I have a 2002 Dispatch 2.0 OCD!!
Update: Seeing that the van had a horrible rear end knocking and was due in the garage the very day the clutch blew, today it had that finally done. I had both sides (bushes) done and I will try to get some pics if the guy still has them, totally shot. I also had changed both rear shocks as a matter of 'why not if its wearing out' £180 (including parts and labour) which I think was an absolute bargain and saved me 8 hours of swearing. Apparently a Ford Granada bush puller/setting tool does the job easily.
Have to say the van handles so much better, thinking now of getting the fronts done.
I must be mad, just spent £1250 on tax/insurance/clutch/shocks/bushes and front brakes (is this mad or now have I caught the Dispatch bug?)
I replaced the two side door barrels, I was going to replace all five door locks but the set I bought on eBay were all different and there were only two that the keys supplied fitted! Got my money back and will be ordering a new set.
The replacement is quite a straight forward job, just take a pic on your phone how the mechanism bars etc are orientated first.
The price is around £16 to £20 for a set of 5 plus 2 keys I think.
The two I did replace work fine and positive locking)
Yep all electric is coming, but I hope to not worry about charging bloody batteries in 15 years time and just putting my feet up 
I have decided that this van is going to stay for as long as reasonably practical to do so. It's for work anyway and I can do some mods etc to update/make it more useable, things like the headlamps (recent post on that and great response) led lights in the back, not going to bother with a reversing cam as the bumper provides plenty of feedback, getting various things done before the go wrong like the cambelt, brakes and fluids, bushes etc.
If I was to use it for trips abroad, it will be ok and should be reliable with the above done.
To be honest, I rarely need much luxury on trips here and if I do (not working) take the car.
Wow guys!! Super impressed with the modified new units with the projector lenses. Nice vid too DragonMan. May see if I am good enough to try this..... definitely one option to think about. (by the way that is one cool looking mod)
Ricko, yeah this was my first thought, just sticking on some spots, the halfords ones were really nasty and then got thinking about keeping the front 'tidy' as it were.
Yes Vaz, I was kinda hoping the facelift ones fit my MK1 may find a cheap one on ebay to mess around with, and certainly thought about retro fitting the front end with the newer bumper etc.
All fantastic replies, thanks... now for some bonnet up thinking and a bit of research into parts and mods....
Heads buzzing now
Hi all, was pondering about the head lamps on my 2002 2.0 HDI They seem a bit dim compared with todays cars/vans etc and driving through this winter was looking into an abyss down some of the roads I use to get to my farm workshop.
I was looking at the facelift ones and wondered if anyone has ever tried to fit them to a mark 1 or if they are brighter.
Short of an easy fix like that, is there any bulbs or replacements that give a better beam length and width (but legal of course)
Other option I was thinking of is fitting driving lights for the main beam selection. some seem rather cheap in Halfords.
I do a lot of country lane driving and would like a bit more light in front of me in the dark mornings/evenings.
Hahaha, no not too controversial at all, except the bit about keeping your balls clean, shiny and free from rust.
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Mine certainly aren't smooth and shiney.
I was trying to think of a better way to put it, trust me 
OAT, sound advice indeed
Zippypilot is right up to a point. Mineral oil/grease will degrade plastic and nylon but no lube may cause drag and binding over the long term.
When you need lube for plastic and or nylon parts, you should use silicone oil or grease. If you try fitting a plastic part to a metal part without any lube, you could brake or damage the plastic. My gear cables were going to be £200 for my Dispatch from a dealer but are available from eBay for £30 with a 5 year guarantee. As it happens, I used the ones off my dead Scudo in the back yard, which cost nothing but always make sure you get the right part obviously. If they tell you it will fit your vehicle and it doesn't then they should change it for free.
Agree with your point also GRIFFIN, there are compatible lubricants with plastics, the other point of not needing these, is (apart from nylon self 'lubricates' if you like) is any grease/oil etc collects contaminants like grit/dust etc and holds them in suspension , they will ultimately wear the joint despite being held in the lubricant.
The click mechanism is good and doesn't need lubricating to fit. Hope this isn't too controversial lol just my experiences in engineering.
It is a good question, I only bought my Citroen Dispatch 2002 2.0 about 3 years ago, yeah its giving me wallet problems right now but its just what I need for my business. Having said that, a new van these days do provide much more luxury in the cab, with Bluetooth stereos, satnav built-in to a central display, funky underbody lights when you open the doors and all sorts of gadgets like parking sensors and rear-view cameras, led lights in the interior and of course leather seats.
Having said all that, the cost of these vans is really high, and as mentioned above, servicing costs are more, the complicated computers running you and the vehicle, and in my view, much of the maintenance is beyond the home mechanic now without full diagnostic equipment.
If you want in-built satnav and Bluetooth, led lights under the doors, leather seats and reversing cameras, all can be installed (with design too) to these vans at a far less cost of a newish van with them.
Better to modify to your needs than buy an expensive idea of what manufacturer thinks is cool.
Sorry long this reply! In short is it driving all day? or just collect/drop/commute a few times a day?
Must add, been driving many types of vans for 11 years now and this one just suits me 
One question. When I'm putting the new cables on, is there anywhere that I should be oiling or putting grease on? Thinking it may be a good idea to put some grease in the cupped ends of the cables that snap onto the two balls on top of gearbox?
No, do not use grease or oils, the end cups are nylon and lubricating them will degrade this material. I know this sounds counterintuitive!
Make sure the balls are smooth, clean and free of corrosion and all is good.
I am more than happy at 500 quid to get the MOT. You will never hire one at that price for a year and clutch, alternator, tires and the likes is just Wear and tear that can happen to any motor at any age
Yeah, I am in the mind of making a budget for repairs above servicing, at the end of the day, the van is perfect for my needs and has become a bit of personality regards its foibles, besides most jobs are home mechanic ones not like todays vehicles
Very right to say so, I was happy with the cost of a new clutch, like you say kenbw2, no guarantee with another van would not give over the same troubles. I thought about this and you're right, a few more things to get done (rear brakes, rear swing arm bushes etc) and it's good again. A must is the cambelt, any tips or should I get the pro's to do it?
I have done some 80 odd miles on the new clutch now since getting it back yesterday evening, no signs of anymore noise from the drive/engine than normal. Very smooth with no vibrations across the revs from idle up. Not sure what make of kit they fitted, will find out. 2002 2.0 HDI. Just pleased it wasn't worse the way the clutch exploded 
OAT, yep it wanted a bit of TLC
Ricko, I must get a rabbits foot for this van 



Well, the clutch certainly did a great job messing my wallet and day up! The central portion of the friction plate decided to have a moment with the rest of it, the 'self destruct mode' was definitely appropriate for this thing...
Dellboy, um bit late, they fitted the solid flywheel kit (if it lasts a few more years I'm happy)
Hi all, hope everyone is still on the road, this last few days have been quite whimsical
Having booked the poor old thing in to get the rear swingarm bushes done at an exceptionally good price (for yesterday to in at the garage), the handbrake (usually as sharp as a clever) went all the way up and just managed to not roll on the slight incline outside my house the same day, that's ok too, easy job that I will do. So, this morning the left sliding door decided it was going to be difficult to open requiring a push on the top of the door pulling the handle back, again not too much of a worry. a simple reconfig of the mechanisms or a bit of lube, and the front brake pads started to grind.
Now here is the real telling me it wants to retire, as I pulled away, the clutch juddered for a moment, ok been very cold/damp etc lately so thought no more about it as it soon stopped doing it, then JUDDER JUDDER BOUNCY BOUNCY JUDDER......... smooth coasting to the side of the dual carriage way.
A nice gentleman with a flatbed came and emptied the only cash from my wallet and took it away to the garage (actually he was excellent) so the clutch has decided to join in. Now a clutch isn't a massive deal but.... having read the clutch threads on here, seems like there can be some issues with flywheel being a DMF. my guy reckons £300 plus for the replacement parts or £200 for the solid flywheel kit. He wants £250 to do the work which is fine by me but is this worth it?
Ok surely the above is enough? Nope, before the clutch failure, the steering went 'notchy' again meaning the UVJ need greasing again!
Any advice on the above, parts sourcing/tuitions/experiences etc would be great
Little bastard is going to be fixed and will continue on the road despite it's damned determination to just want to park up in it's old age
PS on top of this I just paid out for the insurance and tax the ungratefuld sod
Hahaha, yep, mine hasn't had a bath (apart from floods this winter) all year too. Had to replace it as couldn't be arsed to glue back together the million pieces that kind driver left behind lol
JohnDragonMan, yep, guest I should have planned ahead for the door locks to do at the same time lol but didn't plan on having the mirror disintegrated by some kind driver. I have new speakers already fitted. I was wondering if at the same time as doing the locks is fit a remote locking actuator? not sure if they exist but would be nice to unlock both doors without having to reach over to the passenger side
Hi JohnDragonMan, yeah I am going to fit new door locks soon so the whole panel needs to come off again, duct tape?
Casper, Hi. Lover the silicon sealant idea, but honestly it's a cheep 15 min job.....well if you don't have to re take the panel off again as I did.


Hi all, just a small post replacing the drivers side door mirror. It was utterly obliterated by a BMW 4x4 down a rather dark and narrow country lane (the shrapnel sounds down the side of the van were astonishing!) on my way to my workshop just be before Xmas, of course she/him didn't stop and I have some minor scratches to the left side of the van as I made friends with the hedge to avoid further fun.
Anyway, it is an easy thing to replace, obvious screws to the door panel/card (3 under the hand door pull cup, two to the right side of the panel and one to the left of the speaker grill and one just below the mirror control stick) all torx, 2 sizes. Remove the speaker grill and disconnect the speaker. The door latch handle is not part of removing the panel.
The mirror assembly is held on with 3 screws which are obvious. The Control stick is secured with a screw just under on the door panel above the panel fastening screw. BEWARE! Do not unscrew this too much, just a few turns as if you do, it's a bugger to get back in properly when you refit the new control stick. I had to take the panel off again and put the screw in part way)
On fitting the mirror assembly, the control stick is a little fiddly to get through the rubber grommet, so remove it first before fitting.
On a lighter not, the replacement mirror was just under £20 on eBay and I guess his/hers BMW part would reach the value of the van)
Oh, one more tip, make sure the orientation of the control stick is correct for the mirror operation and when fitting the rubber boot over it, put a screwdriver through the same hole as the securing screw one and lever up on the stick fitting as the boot takes some force to properly fit the stick and it can just push it down into the door panel.
Oh one more thing, the window winder just levers off, no screw to attach it (I re-orientated mine so the cup holder is not blocked with the window fully up and fully down)
Hope it helps
