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Looking at the bits in one of the generic kits I have, there's a dip tube, giving the option to feed from the main tank. The idea being to cut it shorter than the engine supply so it doesn't leave you dry.
I've not got round to fitting it yet (it was pencilled in for a friend's Land Rover 110), but I'm sure I will find something to stick it into.
I have a friend who put one in a Transit and used the main tank. He also tells me that the time it takes to heat up has halved since insulating everything. Nick is @onemanup7895 on YouTube.
In case yer wonderin....
basically an FTDI IC is a common interface that converts signals from a high speed USB bus to levels processors can handle.if you want get in to UARTS RS232 TTL I2C etc, n shit look it up
Why would you actually need it though? I thought the idea was you use the serial plug and either use a laptop with a serial port on it or a serial to USB cable?
Other than that, it's a fair point that some of these devices are only fit for the b1n and some homework is required prior to purchase.
Hermes are bad, but worse than them are Yodel.
almost impossible
Should still be able to get at it enough to reach the bits that open it.
Probably a broken plastic piece of something not giving the required operating movement to release.
In theory yes.
But when my Honda came back after the airbag recall. I'm 100% certain they didn't take off the battery as the radio was still tuned in and showing UK RDS data - even if they managed to tune all the stations back, it'd be on IRL RDS data.
Do it with the ignition off for a bit at least. I know I used to get random airbag lights on my wife's 106 because of all the seat movements between me & her driving it.
So the conclusion is they both fit, but the original parts reference is slightly longer on the second last leg to the intercooler?
Intermittent you say? Try unplugging, cleaning, reseating the connector under the seat?
Having a play around with them, I confirm they work exactly as in your video,
I hadn't realised when I did the job a few weeks ago, that one of the adjusters was actually broken.
Thanks for the update.
I can never remember how they actually work apart from the fact that at some point...they don't.
Having always had old tat, I'm more familiar with getting the brake adjuster spanner out and turning the old Girling square pegs.
Disc supplied with my HIM / Teradyne knock-off was full of malware you wouldn't want to install.
Best would be run it offline on a spare laptop or sandbox it.
but a video does the job in seconds.
Rare though to find one without the annoying music / loads of waffle / presenter gurning in-camera. 
Applying the handbrake so the handbrake lever moves to the left squeezes the sprung side plates to ratchet round to the next click.
Not tried it on a dashboard, but on a LCD clock (Jaguar XJ6 (X300))
As long as you have the right tools and able to control the temp so it's not overly hot that you start burning/setting things on fire, then it should be reasonably straightforward.
Never had much luck with a Bluetooth dongle and phone on my 2005 Honda. Don't think it communicated in the right lingo (protocol). Got a knock-off Chinese equivalent of the manufacturer's cable box and USB to Serial adaptor and use a password hacked copy of the Honda software on an old laptop. Reads all the standard OBD codes and all the manufacturer's special codes and will do airbag/immobiliser stuff.
I've heard folk having better luck with £300 Foxwell OBD readers if they are working on a number of different manufacturers cars.
The best bet would be to find the equivalent PSA Lexia gear and use that.
I did see that on the diagram, however my thoughts are based on both the part number on the existing part in the photo and the application list for said part number. That's not say what you have won't fit, but you'll only find that out when you have the two side-by-side in your hand. At that point you'll be able to see if the physical dimensions are correct or if the construction is different between the passenger car vs commercial.
I'd never rely on a EPC diagram as sometimes they are wrong or don't show the actual part (JLR pull that trick I've found). Also theres the assumption that it was the correct one pulled it from an official source. If you look at this link for a Peugeot 308 intercooler pipe 98201 00680, it shows the alternative arrangement of the rigid distribution intake pipes. Either way, both variations seem to have pipe stubs that are in the same position engine side.
I don't think there will be a lot in it, but there's must be a reason that the Dispatch/Expert/Scudo/Vivaro/Proace pipe carries a different number. Whether it is a major or a minor difference will be found out in due course.
The free online (E)lectronic (P)arts (C)atalogues only go up to 2013. The up-to-date means today, and for nearly 5 years, stuck behind a Stellantis paywall official site.
The one you link to is 98201 00680.
I think it is 98216 87780.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296496558978
https://peugeotpartsdirect.co.uk/produc … er-pipe-2/
https://eurofrance24.com/catalog/produc … egory/264/
You can see the lion / double chevon / Toyota logo on that pipe and the part number.
Unfortunately I haven't got access to the up-to-date EPC and the part number question would be one that a main dealer should be able to definitely answer.
Cor blimey!
Thanks for sharing the pics. I'm not looking forward to poking mine.
eBay, AliExpress, Amazon, Coach trimmers
Depends what exactly you want and pocket depth really. If you can throw us a county / location you might even find you have someone local to you.
im quite upset as my very local pick and pull scrap yard has closed down recently. yes i practically lived there.
Never been there, but I assume you mean Albert Looms? I can understand your upset.
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … -30-38.png
Oooh Synergie! Same colour as my one too
Yes, I can't remember what it's previous number plate was, but I think it's ex-Citroen UK. The colour is something like marchioness red pearl metallic. I don't have the code to hand.
Sadly missing its original 3 spoke Monaco alloy wheels. 
Handle battery by edges and don't hold it between your thumb and forefinger top & bottom or use plastic tweezers.
Make sure the new battery is good and in date.
Make sure the contacts inside are making contact with the battery securely and the polarity is correct.
Re-sync the key with the car (if you've more than one, you might have to do them in turn in the same session)
It's been a long long time since I done a Peugeot RF key fob as both my more recent PSA vehicles are IR fobbed.
They were from Arnold Clark Autoparts (Carlisle branch) - they are the correct parts as I queried it with them.
M6 x 20mm, they look something like this originally,

I don't think the head style is that critical.
Hi, long time lurker, first time poster.
I have a 1996 Citroen Synergie VSX 1.9TD I'm recommissioning and have a problem fitting replacement suspension arms - Key Parts KCA5864 / KCA5865
I attempted last month to change the driver's side arm and thought I was going mad. The rear mount had no issues with the bolt holes. The front mount wouldn't sit far enough in towards the centre of the car because the housing came into contact with the subframe before the threaded holes would line up.
I eventually took the arm off the vehicle and put the bolts into the threaded holes to measure the spacing and it appears to be correct at 82mm. However the housing appears to be 'too fat' to permit the bolts to line straight through the subframe.
I did consider returning the arms, but I didn't have time on my side (I'm in Ireland, the vehicle in England) and wondered if alternative replacements would have the same issue anyway.
Has anyone else had this problem come up? I did a search and couldn't find anything (apart from about 5 subframe versions used).
Is it angry grinder time or try find some alternative front mounts to press on? I look forward to your thoughts on this conundrum.

