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In the post below it suggests that the tooth count on the drive pinnion varied across different starters. I wondered if there could also be variations in those planetery gears too? Yours looked severely mashed up.
Main thing is when you buy one to make sure they accept returns.
Then I've looked online for starters. I've put the van reg into for example autodoc.co.uk and the ones come up listed:Number of Teeth: 11\\13and another below it as :Number of Teeth: 9,10 and again another as:Number of Teeth: 10-11, 12-13 So this is confusing! Any way I can suss out what the van should have, given this one now is not stock. It has 13 teeth but maybe wrong?I've measured the teeth on the engine side using blue cloth, teeth are 7mm centre to centre
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/forum/img/members/1880/mini_IMG_20250208_111703115_HDR.jpeg
Looks a good base for anyone with the skills, facilities, and time to diy.
Just a word of caution.
Might the apparent confusion over teeth explain why that one ate itself?
As Reg said, you should feel a nice satisfying kick with some torque.
That grease does look strangely... granular!
If you go for an ebay one just message in advance asking for confirmation that it will fit and that they would accept return if not.
With that confifmed you can be sure you only risk wasting time not money.
We do have a couple of members quite proficient with heating systems on our vans but mostly with far more primitive systems than I suspect yours might be.
Hopefully they might have some suggestions though.
Being a van forum I doubt we have anyone with actual experience on an RCZ.
Nice looking car though.
But being a general heater problem, I suppose we can all have a go. 
When you say "one of the hoses going to the cabin radiator is hot, while the other is cold", do you mean realy cold or just not as hot as the other?
Have you confirmed flow at the "cold" hose?
Any thermostat control for cab temp or aircon fitted?
The fact that it works fine then fails suggests all major components are basicaly ok. If you are getting good temps, circulation and pressure I would be thinking electronics and/or sensors. But not being very familiar with modern electronics wouldn't know where to look.
Is there anything consistant when it fails, like after certain time or at certain temp?
Are these swivel seats?
He mentions that they are in an earlier thread.
"The arm rest has completely sheared off. I'm going to attempt to fix it somehow. Nice leather seats out of a Quicksilver and look super comfy."
I'm not 100% but the diesel heaters I've looked at say you can't tap it in to an existing line, I think all the lines are pressurised to some extent, and I don't think you would get reliable flow with the engine off.
I am sure that there is enough variation between different vehicles fuel supplies and different diesel heaters to warrant caution.
However the majority of the chinese heaters I have seen or read about in the past few years have taken fuel directly from various places along the fuel supply and return lines. Some took aditional precautions of one way valves and/or isolators but many have just plumbed straight in. The most recomended location was from the engine return fuel line which seems to make sense for a few reasons. All seemed to have been operating ok although a few mentioned having to bleed the system after fitting or when disturbing the supply at the heater end.
I am also far from 100% on this and as I absolutely loathe diesel heaters, have never fitted one myself. But I recon the majority of the thousands fitted since the vanlife craze took off are plumbed directly into existing fuel lines and working as well as can be expected. As were many of the far better engineered though more expensive heaters available in the decades before cheap Chinese shite took over.
Can you not splice into the feed before the inline filter?
Update on this
Have chatted with the staff and feel confident it might solve my issue, so will hopefully be trying to fathom out the guidance over the next week or so.
Do they suggest/recomend suppliers for required parts?
If they are confident re costs they should be able to.
Not for you I don't think.
I had one in a Transit for a child but I could sleep in it ok. I think that was more like 5 1/2' though. Mind I am probably only about 4 1/2 when curled up asleep anyway
Surprised to find this on ebay. I could have used one of these in the past.
I don't remember the details but do remember a garage having difficulties with self adjusting on mine.
Turned out to be a problem with the brake balancer/compensator.
Ken keeping it all to himself I see/
Don't know about the gearbox. I think rot and cylinder heads are biggest problem. True re mpg but I don't do the millage I used to.
It's cheap and re-sellable though so I will at least be mobile to look out for another TD Expert, or wait to get mine fixed.
Very interesting. I would need to see one done before I would fork out for instructions.
I would also be more concerned about those spindly supports that the swivels myself. The space is nice but I would want some cross bracing.
The swivel should surely be locked and have the weight of seat and potentialy two people mechanicaly supported by more than just the swivel when in use. (Although the single swivels in my expert are not. It appears that apart from a bolt to prevent accidental rotation, the only solid conection twixt seat and base is whatever the spindle is made from.
Personaly I would pay whatever it cost for swivel front seats.
The increase in usable van space and comfortable seating is a revelation, imo. You practicaly gain almost a 1/3rd extension! And this is of even more value in such a small van. Depending on how you use your van of course.
I am currently looking at a mid engine van which until now I had dissmised for it not being feasable to have swivels. But I have found that there are swivel seats available but due to complexity, are £300ish each fitted! That has virtualy made my mind up to at least check it out though. I value the space enough to at least get one done even at that price, and I am as tight as anyone.
It's a Bongo/Freda btw, please don't ban me. 
Has it stopped blowing through all vents...demist, face and feet?
I assume you have checked the ducting conections?
(and may ask for some advice on valuing the mk2 van I recently bought and will now have to sell ?)
I haven't a clue but would be very interested to know.
Mileage, advisories, etc?
OAT wrote:About 6 for me I think.
Probably 8 then. Soon be January 2025 making it 9 or am i reading it wrong
I didn't even realise it was up there!
Like you said it flies, and also gets quicker each year.
About 6 for me I think.
I just had a subframe fitted on mine. measured up all the hole spacing and brackets, etc and all looked good.
Unfortunately the cross member (the bit of the sub frame that the streering rack bolts to) has a slightly different profile to my old one. The old one dropped a bit in the middle, the replacement I got raised slightly. Only about an inch different overall so it looked like it would still work.
Unfortunately when attempting to refit the rack, the pipes were fouling. This needed a couple of spacers to make some clearence...Which of course shortened the bite of the fixing bolts into the alloy of the rack...which of course led to the thread stripping!
The saga is still ongoing.
Still off the road here. My subframe woes have turned into a nightmare.
On top of that health and family issues have stopped me from getting on with it.
Considered buying something else to keep mobile while I sorted it but nothing apeals for the money I have.
I recon for every 200 "normal" sized vans out there, there are only two or three "our" size.
Did you test it with an external battery? Even if working it might not be being triggered when fitted?
Been very quiet round here lately but someone should be along. Electronics after 2000 are beyond me.
Did you test it with an external battery? Even if working it might not be being triggered by the loom?
Been very quiet round here lately but someone should be along. Electronics after 2000 are beyond me.
I don't know this engine but could it be a pressure sensor rather than a stop valve?