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Interesting no error codes, I would've guessed leaky turbo, but it would show on diagnostics...
Could be few other issues, normally they all would be showing errors.
One last thing to check is to do leak-off test, in case some of the injections misbehaving
Your avatar has never been more appropriate.
If you was to meet me, you'd be surprised how fitting it is, since getting caught with this pesky cough thingy-I literally 1 to 2 copy... Or other way round- Jeff Albertson is copy of me
Looking around, I will be lucky to afford a moped.
Got to say, I'm selling my 5008 too, soon I'll be car/van'less, just to cover gazzilions I've spent on hers repairs
Still, I did once do a 350 mile tour of Scotland on a 50cc Yamaha.
Life goes on.
If not MOT ("their" problem), she'd be running as good as bicycle for years more to come. I've never had more reliable vehicle in my life, including Hondas, Toyota's I've had.
Not looking forward to it.
Yeah, Road Tax rip off, yeah she's been thirsty on fuel, gutless etc, but she served me like nothing else ever!
Looking at garbage MK2 onwards is, struggling to think what to get to not to end up in money pit.
Let us know, when you are on a moped 
Same, my old girl is ticking up to MOT, but told last time already, it was the last tick she's had.
R.I.P.

The car ran fine when I parked it in the evening. Next day it wouldn't start.
Got to be electrics then. Hard indeed to diagnose or to find a decent mechanic to diagnose, but all together simple physical check on ALL fuses(BSM, BPGA, BSI), then voltage/amperage measure up needed when starting.... if it does. Then an obvious culprit is wiring, connectors all in-between: Baterry> BPGA (batt fuse box), started solenoid signal>LIN connector to the alternator>BPGA-ECU wiring... ideally by a clued up mechanic, as DIY is often the case, you might look at something being wrong, but not see it
(happens a lot to me)
Good luck!
Hi there!
I have a MY2006 Jumpy with 2.0 HDi (DW10BTED+) engine. It wont start.
I've checked fault codes and the reader cannot connect to the ECU.
There's an fault code in the BSI saying "No connection to the ECU".
Means nothing, also, BSI could be faulty the same
Would help to narrow down, establish what when it happened, that it doesn't start
I did some googling and found people having issuses with the fuel pump relay which could cause a unable-to-connect-to-ecu. I tried a new relay but no difference.
x2 completely different things
I intend to dig a bit deeper into the electronics but I thought I check here first if someone have had similair faults and have any ideas where to start?
I'd say do diagnostics or find someone with Alexia3 and DiagBox subscription
And also, I've been googling for wiring diagrams but hasn't found anything of value yet. Anyone here who know where I can find such?
Best to you!
Thomas
PSA ("Stelantis") hold it in their grip firmly, meaning, failing you find someone with appropriate diagnostic tool, that would read what are the actual errors are...
... got to be trip to StDealers... but don't hold your breath on it, as waiting time for diagnostics are 3 months (at least where I live)
AlvyLad wrote: If you are still in to it
Yes that would give me confidence to test the glowplugs at the relay much as I figured out
Thanks for that, where did you find this?
Michael
On Pug forum, there's quite a community, but most of the cars/vans in that PSA (Stelantis) are made very similar in majority of components etc
Wire colours at the relay
pin 1 blu, pin 2 pnk, pin 3 Y, pin 4 Bk, pin 5 Grn/Y pin 6 Grn, pin 7 R, pin 8 Wh

If you are still in to it
I have to admit I am a bit paranoid about diesels not starting/glowplug issues,
exactly the same, why I HAD to dig in to my issues
having to be rescued on-site with non-staters in the past Thinking about a past experiences a guy came to my aid with a Perkins Landrover conversion with twin batteries, hooked up to my van with huge jump leads......stated instantly!
1- them more modern vehicles- everything about electrics and electronics, hardly ever is anything to do with actual components. It it works- it just does, if it doesn't- it's very much specialist subject to get to the bottom what's the actual issue
2- I ended buying some fairly ridiculous Li jump starter from Chyna. Doesn't work if batt is completely dead, "clamps" are way too short, but, after having had semi-flat batt, it understood to give a charge- I've never heard my starter spinning so fast. Concerns me little bit to start it up or not next time round.
So I'm thinking first job change the battery!
Sensible, would be even more sensible to check charge performance
1 all doors closed, van "in sleep mode"
2 ignition on for a minute
3 ignition off, a minute after/later (dormant state again)
4 Started, tick-over
5 higher revs charge voltage
6 High revs
should show enough of figures to get an idea if it's battery or charging system
AlvyLad wrote:We all know they are very cheap, but in our climate they don't even get used much, so it's pointless to be digging in to them, except to have them tested (which is already labour intensive job), that'll be very many times the cost of them.
Assuming you are referring to glow plugs...
Do you mean you don't actively use them in summer?
Spot on, not that I wouldn't use them deliberately, but "computer says no!"
And them modern engines have so much higher compression, glow plugs end up near absolete.
The van usually starts reliably in cold or hot weather but lately, it seems a bit reluctant, I just thought I would eliminate the glow plugs while the weather is good, once started it runs fine
I'd change battery first, starter next, possibly alternator, as those "sluggish to start" up issues are commonly stem from
Just testing glow plugs is very painful (time consuming) opp, to replace them, without breaking is more like winning lottery... As it turns out (in accordance to very very knowledgeable mechanic) it's less than half of all "diagnosed already "- "bad glow plugs" replacements are indeed having anything to do with starting up.
We all know they are very cheap, but in our climate they don't even get used much, so it's pointless to be digging in to them, except to have them tested (which is already labour intensive job), that'll be very many times the cost of them.
BPGA is battery (and charge) management system, that's operated via x1 relay, in accordance to ECU.
Starting poorly when hot...
Not sure what would be the best scanner to read everything thoroughly, peeps use Lexia 3 full chip and able to log in to old system (when it was free) DiagBox or else cough cough...
Cheapest option.
Whilst lot of garages have suitable scanners for error readings, for you to get glow plugs tested, you'd need mechanic to do that, as I couldn't even get to mine (Pug 5008), when they did a cambelt, they had one side apart, so wasn't too far to get to the back off it for them, yet, told me to get new relay...
Not an answer you are looking for, but
"Hard starts" are usually starter or BPGA related
Glow plugs are both ambient ("outside") and engine temperature dependent, hence I had glow plugs tested by mechanic, who said my relay packed up, got relay replaced, got another mechanic to explain (above)...
(More on the topic) Them x8 wires will not power on with key turning as you wish in this temp.
AlvyLad wrote:20% too small
Mine are actually 195/60r14s, but still that's 9% less circumference than stock 195/75r14. Anyway, should the odometer be accurate by then, the speedo might be casualy exaggerating.
Regularly I get showing 79mph when on GPS navigation it's 70
Your maths are WAY OFF the mark
Just get right wheels on and see there from
https://sizemywheels.com/tire-size/citr … atch/19d-i
AFAIK 5% discrepancies are okay, your wheels are 20% too small
With cars (vans) getting more and more "advanced" basic things are easily overlooked. I
Bit about "on the topic" about how cats work
https://youtu.be/lJiznlz5buc?si=WXjyTcbK5txSBVqJ
Exhaust gases are miles ahead in "purity", compared to prior to cats and miles behind current emission compliant engines
Cat elimination on my bike gained extra 7HP, especially on higher revs (on a 1100 CC , 100 HP bike)
Considering exhaust piping on our vans being more or less same size, despite being double CC capacity (but half of the revs, than petrol engines), doubling up CAT would build back pressure even more, so, if to say they realistically have 60 HP - ~10% =~54HP would be noticed fast enough
Whilst cutting all/any out, I highly doubt, if would make a gain more than +2% (~+ 1.3HP)
IMO 
Some people call it "character", I call them utter disaster (all cars post 2005-7 make)
Unlikely (PSA design) or stDealers are in it deliberately , it's headache enough when they misbehave at the best of times, booking at a decent garage for diagnostics is bit like doctor appointments- "post code lottery" and on the top of that electric/electronic parts making a massive mark up "as is" already, I think it's design and technology of manufacturers are skipping R&D, that's the biggest problem.
Depending of factory set up Cats are meant to operate at higher or lower temps (own specific + and -)
Adding a second Cat, might be beneficial, if your emissions are trully bad (to not to pass Euro3), your engine must be really knackered in some or the other ways
2.0 HDI models (Euro 4 emissions)... I'm not gonna get involved with, just saying as power and sophistication on my Pug 5008 is amazing, but FAP and amount of electrics/electronics, I'd rather never needed to learn about.
Bottom line, you can fit lower operating temp additional Cat to get through MOT, so be it, but power restraint at any higher revs will be very noticeable, to "cut it back out" straight after
Yes hanging as yours is
Post of the month, that!

on the top of the fusebox in the enginebay
BPGA fuse.
Glad you solved it
https://www.engine-codes.com/p1350.html
What does this mean?
Possible Causes
NOTE: The causes shown may not be a complete list of all potential problems, and it is possible that there may be other causes.
Faulty Ignition Control Module
Ignition Control Module harness is open or shorted
Ignition Control Module circuit poor electrical connection
⚠ Check if your Car have Safety Recalls
Description
The Ignition Control Module (ICM) has independent power and ground circuits. The circuits between the ICM and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) consists of the following circuits:
-The ignition control (IC) timing signal
-The IC timing control
-The low resolution engine speed signal
-The medium resolution engine signal
-The camshaft position signal
-The low reference
The ICM sends 3X signals to the PCM, and controls the timing advance during engine cranking. The timing advance changes to PCM control after the following actions occur:
The PCM receives the second 3X signal
The PCM applies 5 volts to the ignition control (IC) timing signal circuit.
The ICM monitors the CKP sync signal when the engine is cranking. The CKP sync signal is passed from the CKP sensor to the ICM on the CKP sensor 2 signal circuit. The CKP sync signal is used to determine the correct cylinder pair and initiate the ignition coil firing sequence. The 18X reference pulses are passed from the CKP sensor to the ICM on the CKP sensor 1 circuit. The 18X reference pulses are used for fuel injection and ignition control. After the ICM receives both signals, the ICM passes the 18X and 3X reference signals to the PCM. The CMP and the CKP sensors share a 12 volt reference and low reference circuit. The CKP sensor consists of the following circuits:
-A 12 volt reference
-A low reference
-A CKP sensor 1 signal
-A CKP sensor 2 signal
OBDII Code P1350 - Ignition Control System - Engine-Codes.com
P1350 Code - Ignition Control System
How to Fix
Check the 'Possible Causes' listed above. Visually inspect the related wiring harness and connectors. Check for damaged components and look for broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded connector pins.Search for P1350 Questions and Answers
Possible Symptoms
Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
Might be related...
defective glow plug coil / preheater
defective glow plug coil / preheater
In that case it's the easiest thing to do. I found a shop that works with citroen so I will go to them and have a chat some day now in the week, explain the situation and see what they advice.
ANY CITROEN/Pug/Renault/Vauxhal/Toytota are made by PSA group 2007 onwards- everything is interchangeable, however, for diagnostics there are specific "service software loops", they ought to comply with. Any dcent mechanic, can access with any Snap-on, Autel and similar readers.
I wonder if the iCarsoft CR MAX are able to see everything on this car. I would have good use of it for other cars aswell and could use this to motivate the purshase smile
Not a clue- can't comment.
Can be whole host of problems to not to start, especially if it was molested already in the past.
That doubled up battery sound to me, as if BSM or BPGA relay is malfunctioning, also not discounting alternator having malfunction.
Short of suggesting to get ODB2 reader codes, you could try simple multimeter to check the state of the battery and if solenoid on starter is engaging (dropping bellow 12.5V.
These vans are known to be leaking water on BSI, so that might be an issue too, but the best I could advise you is to get diagnostics for error codes and start there from.
In order to cut down wind noise and streamline the van
for more exciting performance I have added some stick on deflectors
to the door edges.
The results are amazing!, the pounds have fallen off and I now have
a full head of hair and (at long last) attractive to the ladies.You too can have a body like mine, just send me a ten shilling postal order
for my secret to success.
I'll offer you big fat nothing, but jealousy for your success with ladies... for ""a secret" stick on window bead"? 
of course professional go faster speed stripes, that add at least 0.0137 HP 