You are not logged in.
So an update, after turning over the engine full rotation all I can detect is a slight end float movement not big ends so I have reassembled bottom end.
I have put new oil in and filter and left the inter cooler pipe off and also not put serpentine belt on yet, started her up, now doesn't smoke at all but theres what sounds like a much louder "banging" from the front end but now does sound more like an open manifold where before it didn't.
Could this be a completely stuck open EGR and with all the pipes it didn't sound so loud, or could the turbo blown in a way that allows exhaust into the inlet?
Sorry to hear bud
- In my experience when a bottom end goes you don't really hear it on idle when its just the start of the issue and usually engine needs to be between say 1500-2500k revs, although may be different on these engine, I've also seen injector failure cause a similar issue - maybe worth a look?
It gets a lot worse if you try and rev it, so I still think big end especially with the number 4 having a bit of play now sump is off.
I think injectors are OK although I do get a bit of an intermittent leak on number 2 injector but only occasionally and only when cold.
Is this a timing belt issue as belts normaly let go on the over run in that split second change from power on to off..........
Obviously its not broken as you've had it running again............. but lost a couple teeth or has it been slack just enough for it to jump out of kilter...........Just a thought
It is at that point what ever was wrong showed itself, I hope not as was done less than 2 years ago and very few miles but I will pop the covers off and check. If its jumped more than one tooth though my guessing is engine will be scrap.
Well the sump is off, not definite but I can feel movement in number 4 big end and not in 2 or 3 which is looking bad for that one, cannot check number 1 till the oil pump comes off.
Doesnt seam like a lot of movement though, but enough so they need to get done before sump goes back on.
Update, the RAC were wrong there is a very small leak from a weld on the down-pipe by the cat but its not the issue needless to say.
Kind of hoped the shaking and banging was the harmonic balancer on the crank pulley as I gather these are quite a common failure but although it does have a bit of rusty dust on it there is no noticeable play and and engine still shakes/bangs when started without the serpent belt, I gather usually it would stop if pulley not under load if was the fault (also would not explain the power loss if this was issue)
So next thing is big ends, so I have removed inter-cooler pipe and pump off the sump and tonight will remove sump itself and see what I can find.
Think I was getting low 40s till it blew up last week, funnily enough had just brimmed so I could do the same.
My uncle and cousin live near there.
So decided to take the camper to work today as more economical than my car.
Going up M5 fine, whizzing past everyone in the looser lanes, then went to pull off as I slowed down lots of banging/knocking then no power, limped to lay by.
So never got hot, not got any metal in the oil and block OK (no rods sticking out).
So engine runs with loud knock/thumping noise no smoke but cuts out unless revved, has very little power.
Engine is a 2.0 HDi 16V
So I thought was big ends gone but RAC man said he thought it was from back of engine and maybe turbo/exhaust cracked broken as there seemed to be some exhaust gasses escaping.
What are peoples thoughts?
This is all very posh, to be honest I just screwed mine to the side of the vans roof with little o rings behind the screw heads.
That type of burner may be taking the P*** but is not such a stupid idea being self conained gas canisters and no need for gas cupboard and drop out etc ............. it's exactly one of those I carry when away on bike and also carry as back up in van when away........... I've used that very style of aerosol gas single burner all over the Uk and about 10 years of euro travels inc with lorry........... My only complaint would it's a single ring and some gas is hotter than others( Sounds silly but some do burn hotter)........... I see you can get a twin burner now (just two stuck together)
I puzzled why Alfa rims fitted and thought I'd figured it out but it's a Lancia that's the 4th Eurovan that these are based on .............. I guess it's just family parts bin that happened to use Alfa Stud pattern.................... It does suit the multi spokes
Yes I agree, the best ones are a propane mix they get the kettle boiled much quicker than Butane canisters.
Alfa, Lancia and Fiat (as are Ferrari, Maserati and Autobianchi) are all the same company however it doesn't explain why a bunch of vans made almost entirely using Peugeot parts decided to use Fiat hubs.
Really liking the proccess of the build.... Solar panels interest me but I'm short on roof space with my top box for those extras You don't want or have no space for inside.........
Great idea mounting the panels so you can still use rack. ...........
I'm also liking your Butchers block table..... I'ts some thing we don't have inside....is a table......Is it now registered as a motorhome.... motor caravan or whatever terminology it is
Last but not least ............ The multispoke Alfa Alloys suit the van as a change from the norm...........
(Is there center cap stickies available just to cover the Alfa badge not that It's a great worry)
Yes its all registered as a camper, I think I was taking the piss a bit with my fixed cooking equipment, a £10 single burner with its feet fixed to some hole in the worktop, but they were happy.
I could easily get some Fiat badges but I enjoy winding up my local Alfa club too much with pictures of them on my van lol, very usefully the old van wheels fitted my old Alfa 75 so I can get the alloys refurbished and still move my car.
Being a Van it had quite a few scrapes and it seamed easiest to cover these rather than try and respray metallic blue paint. So got some camper graphics off ebay and worked out a posistion that looked god and covered the most scratches on each side.
20181109_124635 by phataardvark, on Flickr
Left one had to cover the corner of the window but decided was going to look best if the sticker was stuck to glass as well so used scalpel to cut the sticker before laying the rest down again using the scalpel to remove any sticker off the door runner and cut along the door edges.
20181111_091851 by phataardvark, on Flickr
Solar Panels
So my solar kit consists of two 100W "12V" Monocrystaline panels (they are more like 18V but they are for a 12V system) I used these rather than the typical 40V units as the controller for the 40V units costs as much as the panels again but the lower voltage panels only need a basic cheap controller costing a few quid.
20181017_205459 by phataardvark, on Flickr
Made up so S shaped alloy brackets and mounted the panels across the van under the roof rack so rack can still be used with care.
20181017_205508 by phataardvark, on Flickr
20181027_152939 by phataardvark, on Flickr
Cables come through the roof through sealed cable bungs into the cupboard and then out the back panel and in to this natty little £6 solar controller.
Removable table.
I had an old butchers block that was about the right size for a table and decided would be good for food prep as well as a table, so bought a rail kit and a folding leg from ebay.
20181124_090627 by phataardvark, on Flickr
Marked up where fittings go.
20181124_132107 by phataardvark, on Flickr
Routed the butchers block to 15mm where the fittings go as they were designed to be mounted to a 15mm table top and I wanted it to align with worktop.
20181124_133140 by phataardvark, on Flickr
Leg and hooks fitted
20181129_191153 by phataardvark, on Flickr
Rail fitted and table adjusted to be level.
Cushions, initially I shortened the existing ones and stapled over the trimmed down ends. Then later I got some fabric which was a close match to the front seats and borrowed the use of my mothers overlocker and sowed up some new covers.
20180816_210928 by phataardvark, on Flickr
First cushion is fixed so was fitted first and others trimmed to match that mount on the upper Rock&Roll frame.
20180818_170308 by phataardvark, on Flickr
The other cushions all shortened and ready to go on the frame.
20190209_155543 by phataardvark, on Flickr
Retrimmed in blue and fitted.
IMG_20190410_130032[1] by phataardvark, on Flickr
IMG_20190410_145757[1] by phataardvark, on Flickr
A laid flat as bed (well flattish)
I agree totally about the MoT failure aspect of EGR valve tinkering but that is only when the engine management light comes on to give the game away. By simply disconnecting the vacuum pipes, the dreaded light does not come on, at least not on my 2006 scudo. owners of other models may want to experiment to see what happens with there particular van. All I can say is that mine runs so much smoother with the EGR valve disabled that I'd be reluctant to go back to having it connected now. I also agree that perhaps I should find a more discreet way of blanking off the pipes so I can fit them to the inlets and at least that way it wont draw attention to the fact. Although I'm not sure the Mot examiner will look under the bonnet if the engine management light is not on?
Cheers, Griff.
Hi Griff
Depends how incompetent your MOT tester is but there are whole sections now on examining all the emission control systems to make sure they have not been tampered with in any way including checking EGR valves are not disconnected and DPFs have not been cut open and welded back up with the innards removed. However they still only have 45 mins in which to do all this crap so they will always miss stuff.
Sorry, I meant where could I buy the actual side window from?
Sorry I work in IT so I embedded it in the company name like some smart arse, link as per reply above.
I would point out that interfering with the EGR system is also now an MOT failure so might be good to reconnect at MOT time or maybe internally block the hoses and reconnect so "fix" is invisible.
And for anyone upset about the environment don't be as EGR valves never did the job intended successfully anyway, they just damage your engine and cause more serious emissions issues further down the line like badly clogged inlets which can cause over-fueling and power loss.
So next part o the build is the Rock and Roll Bed
I started off by buying a cheap 2nd hand one but did not realise before going to see it was a full width one where as I needed a 3/4, however having travelled over an hour to see and it was only £200 inc cushions at I bought it anyway as I could just narrow it myself to fit.
20180818_113022 by phataardvark, on Flickr
Main bed frame ready for narrowing.
20180818_113831 by phataardvark, on Flickr
Chopped
20180818_115404 by phataardvark, on Flickr
Ready to weld
20180818_150929 by phataardvark, on Flickr
Welded and painted
20180815_194508 by phataardvark, on Flickr
Lower frame done
k_wyndham_t wrote:Yes I have 2 x 100W Solar panels on the roof rack they are super efficient as well, they actually charge the battery over night from the street light, was thinking of putting in split charge too but they work so well I havnt bothered.
The whole build of vans interest me but you've really intrigued me with these Solar panels................ anymore info about them ?
They are pretty much standard monocrystaline solar panels, the only real difference these were specifically designed for Automotive use so only kick out about 18V so can be used with a "cheap" solar converter not a full spec one. They cost slightly moor than just buying one off a house but they tend to kick out about 34-40V and need a controller costing £100+ to work with leisure batteries, where as my panels were an extra £10 each but can be used with a controller that cost £6 on Wish.com
I just turned a 3rd one upside down for the rear quarter.
k_wyndham_t wrote:OAT wrote:Nice work k.
Wondering how you vented the fridge through the side door?Good question I haven't yet, it is only a 12 volt only fridge not a electric/gas version
Simplifies things then at least no fumes to worry about.
I thought it was a Dometic/Electrolux 2/3 way. Probably as you say, any heat taken away can only help the cooling though. Mind you, on a hot day when it matters most, you are likely to have plenty of doors or windows open and there will be little difference between inside and outside temps anyway.
So it's a compressor type then, going for solar on the roof rack?
Yes its a 12v only compressor WACO fridge, cam out of a T4 Devon conversion I think.
Yes I have 2 x 100W Solar panels on the roof rack they are super efficient as well, they actually charge the battery over night from the street light, was thinking of putting in split charge too but they work so well I havnt bothered. 
P.S. Can I ask where you found the side graphics as mine are starting to show their age and I'm looking for inspiration...............
I haven't seen anything yet that takes my fancy over the sort of pinstriping Ive got..........
I know I don't want those fancy swirly RV type Graphics ........
I got them from ebay last year but the company that sold them are no longer doing them, but if you hunt through enough on phrase "Camper Van Decal" you will probably find another company doing them, dont go too cheap though as quality of the vinyl really effects how good they look, these were good but did have a muffin decal on the back which was utter crap.
Yes I liked the blue too, I would have accepted a white camper but was well chuffed to find a metallic blue one so cheap, and it had to be post 2004 so I can drive to London in it without paying through the nose.
Nice work k.
Wondering how you vented the fridge through the side door?
Good question I haven't yet, it is only a 12 volt only fridge not a electric/gas version of the Waco fridge so no issue with fumes but heat might be an issue, may need a vent fitting.
DVLA must have liked you as they did state a minimum of two gas rings im sure. Anyway top job and did you take that breather plug off the side of the leisure battery?
See guidance on this very site, although the DVLA page saying what your camper should have is twin burner or microwave the actual law says it only needs a single burner. 