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Hi just purchased a 06 expert the heater is on full all the time .the slider works well moves any ideas please
Cheers Chris
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Hi just purchased a 06 expert the heater is on full all the time .the slider works well moves any ideas please
Cheers Chris
Wiring is burned somewhere, some monkey wrench just connected it straight, bypassing resistor and everything else.
Hard, but possible to get CORRECT fan from evilBay with CORRECT resistor, replacing it will solve (maybe not) the problem and it can be "un'bodged."
Whilst in my case it was a lesson to not to hate stealers so much, as it ended up way North of £300 and 4+ days of mine wasted, you might find simple replacement of resistor and plugging in correct wiring back being way cheaper solution.
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are you on about the fan speed or the heater temperature setting?
as said if its about the fan then replacing the resistor or whole fan unit will fix it.
if its about the temperature setting then it can be a little more complex
theres 3 types of heater controls for our vans, the basic one with the small lever which controls the recirculate, the one with the recirculate button, and the full on "digital" type with no sliders.
my guess is that you have the most basic type (without air conditioning). in this case it uses an old school mechanical cable to pull the flaps in the heater matrix air box. my guess is that the cable has come off one of these flaps or from behind the slider switch.
you may find something usefull in a thread i made where i was retrofitting air conditioning to my van.
have a look and hope it helps!
- JohnDragonMan
Notice: I have the tendency to void warranties, blow fuses, cause fires, and other fun stuff.
Words of wisdom: Internally rust proof the sills and subframe! both skins!!. There's always user serviceable parts inside. "Oh that shouldn't have happened".
My 2005 Dispatch Camper Project 
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Not doubting your expertise in these areas John, but I don't understand how the internal/external flap could cause either the heater or the fan to be permanently on.
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ahh yes, the XUD, DW8, and DW10 (HDi) engines must have a constant coolant flow through the heater matrix. this means we do not have a "tap" or "valve" on the coolant line feeding the heater matrix. so like on older cars like say on the old Fiat panda (its a car i know a lot about), the heater matrix was isolated on the coolant side using a valve which stopped coolant getting to the heater matrix.
on our vans the heater matrix always has coolant flowing through it so the only way to stop the cab heating up is to isolate it using the air system. pretty much using a flap which diverts air around or through the heater matrix.
the reason why its designed this way is to prevent hot spots in the cylinder head. its why head gasket issues are such a rare thing with this range of engines. if say you was putting the engine into a home made buggy, the actual outlet for the heater matrix on the engine must not be blanked off. it does not need to be fed into a heater matrix to still be safe, it just need connecting to the smaller pipe feeding into the top of header tank. as that is where the heater matrix "drains" into.
one of the reasons why i did all the work on my van when i first bought it was to see how everything worked... this does come in useful. 
Last edited by JohnDragonMan (2022-12-06 19:46:57)
- JohnDragonMan
Notice: I have the tendency to void warranties, blow fuses, cause fires, and other fun stuff.
Words of wisdom: Internally rust proof the sills and subframe! both skins!!. There's always user serviceable parts inside. "Oh that shouldn't have happened".
My 2005 Dispatch Camper Project 
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the heater is on full all the ime
It's a direct wire feed connection
All whatever the issue is ignored just wired up...
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