P0243 WasteGate Solenoid Failure

Pathfinder100 · 2021-07-27 17:11:38

My OBD scanner throws up this error. It is likely also the reason the van is in limp mode.

So today i decided to have check of the various pipes and hoses that are in between the manifold and turbo. The first problem i identified was a pipe that was 95% split and was not connected to a nozzle on the main turbo pipe.

The red circle is where it was hanging off / split and was trimmed and refitted with a new clip. The red arrow is the sensor it connects to.

The red stop light is still flashing on the dash when ignition is on.

Anyone got any ideas?

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-20 23:03:07

And its back to the drawing board.

The mechanic I use has had it for a couple of days and thinks the wastegate valve is stuck open. So I have done some research, watched a bunch of youtube videos, studied the DW10 specs, especially the EGR section and plan to do two things to it myself.

1) Find the Turbo Pressure Valve / Wastegate Solenoid and unclip the electrics from it which according to my research should make the ECU think the sensor is no longer faulty (if it is faulty). If that solves the problem, then buy a new sensor and fit it.
2) Find the wastegate actuator on the turbo, disconnect the vacuum hose and try testing it by flicking the actuator into the closed position and placing my thumb over the hose nipple. If it stays sealed after releasing the actuator, then the wastegate isn't sticking, nor losing pressure.

If neither of these fix it, then check all the sensors and if still broken, then it might be a loom issue. I have no idea where to begin if its that indepth.

Failing all of that I might try and find a garage that services the Expert Taxis. They are going to know better than anyone how to fix the issue.

JohnDragonMan · 2021-08-21 01:33:26

so my first thing to do is to unplug the mass air flow sensor and take it for a drive to see how it feels. usually if they fail they wont throw a fault code on these. i bought my van really cheap because it was lacking in power with a ECU EPROM fault code however the engine still ran. the fault code was created because the battery was low and not enough power was getting to the ecu while cranking. the lack of horse power (not electrical power) was because the mass air flow sensor was faulty.

the mass air flow sensor is just behind the air filter box on the pipe exiting it heading to the turbo.
the sensor you pictured in red is the boost pressure sensor. they dont normally fail often on these.

the EGR can sometimes stick open causing boost pressure to vent to the exhaust sadly the valve its self is on the back of the engine, however if you remove the air filter you can just about get in and install a blanking plate which sandwiches between two flanges (please note such acts are not legal to do) to fix that issue.

as you look at the engine bay, locate the wiper motor in the upper left. just under that you will have 2x solenoids which control vacuum to the EGR valve and turbo waste gate.

the solenoid on the left controls the EGR. the one on the right controls the waste gate.
not hugely common for these to fail but for what it takes, swap them around or replace the one on the right.
note that just unplugging these from the wiring loom will keep the engine management light illuminated. however.. for a quick way to disable a non stuck EGR you can just pull off and seal the vacuum pipe. this will not throw an engine management light.

these engines only need 3 sensors to run. the crank sensor (under the coolant jacket on top of the bell housing). the fuel pressure sensor (on the bottom of the common fuel rail). and the cam position sensor (top of the engine on the left of the rocker cover, it only uses this sensor once while cranking it never uses it while the engine is running)

given that the engine is running, these sensors can be eliminated from any diagnosing that has to be done as if one fails, the engine would never start.

like i say, unplug that mass airflow sensor and watch it rocket back to life.
best thing with diesels.. if it wont run, just unplug things till it does. well within reason. heh

hope this helps!

Last edited by JohnDragonMan (2021-08-21 01:35:25)

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-21 03:03:46

Thanks. You are one person i hoped might reply. Your youtube videos are extremely good and the one with the square box sections behind the rear bumper mirrors a problem I also have with them. It seems you have taken apart and rebuilt a lot more than most everyone on here.

Tomorrow, once I get the van back I will have a poke around. I have one dumb question. How do you get the air box out? Is it clipped in somehow? I tried to get it off when I changed the filter out a couple of weeks back after finding the hose from the pressure sensor hanging off. I couldn't work out where it was clipped or bolted down and no amount of pulling seemed to free it.

As for the EGR, I would like to blank it if possible and yes I know it voids the MOT and if its found out its an instant fail. But if its a major pain to get to, I don't see any mechanic spending the time to take the engine apart to get at it.

Thanks for your suggestions, John. I will update the thread tomorrow or Sunday with what has been tested. i do hope its that sensor. I might also charge the battery given your experiences, as it was registering at 12v last week when i stuck the multimeter on it. Its easy enough to put it on charge overnight.

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-21 15:39:15

So I tried the easy one first and unplugged the MAF sensor. Took it out for a drive and touch wood, the smoke while going up hills has gone. Have ordered a new one. As it stands I could happily drive it like this indefinitely. The lack of acceleration while going up hills is mostly moot.

As for removing the airbox, i feel like a dunce. It pulls off. hmm The boost pressure solenoid is currently covered in oil from something. I am going to get it off later when it stops raining and clean it up. If its leaking from somewhere I will probably replace that too. The MAF should arrive Tuesday and all being well when its on that should get rid of the problem.

Is their any weird way to unplug the battery on these vans. I've heard that you have to go through some ritual whenever you change or disconnect/reconnect the batteries on sevel van.

Is this Gates Timing Belt the one I need for my van?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112493968153

Last edited by Pathfinder100 (2021-08-21 15:42:30)

vaz2121 · 2021-08-22 12:17:42

For the timing belt & water pump kit ~ I'd be inclined to contact seller with reg engine code etc as much info as possible to be able to Id the engine fitted and if kit doesn't fit there's a good chance they may have a kit that does fit and offer that to you.........
If all else fails see if you can find part numbers to cross reference with OEM numbers, whichever way ................
It's probably good practice to do that anyway..............

From Memory I believe your engine code is either RHY or RHZ..........
Sorry best I can think of ... off hand.........

vaz2121 · 2021-08-22 12:34:51

P.S. .............The Air cleaner box on mine [DW8 fitted] anyway has a clip that you press to unlock it from battery tray? ..............
I think it is for some locking down rigidity .............
Other than that it pulls out of rubber bungs it's slotted into ...............

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-22 18:15:47

On the DW10 it simply pushes on to the hose below, similar to how my old Punto's air box connected to the engine. Couldn't find any clips, but they might have existed at some point.

I am going to have a look at the bottom of the engine. I believe the plate with the VIN and engine code is on the nearside bottom, near the oil sump. I will go and find out exactly which model it is, but I think its the RHZ. To find parts so far, I have to admit ECP is still the best for detection. You put the reg plate in and it works. According to it, their is only one timing belt model that fits it, but they only do SKF, Inna and Dayco belts, but only had the SKF ones. I would rather pay a little more and get the Gates one with the 5 year warranty.

Last edited by Pathfinder100 (2021-08-22 18:16:13)

vaz2121 · 2021-08-23 06:21:14

Certainly Gates timing belt kits are the gold standard of allegedly 3rd party kits ..............
On a Couple of occasions like you ... No Gates kits to be had .....................
I've had to plump for a kit other than a Gates .............

I've come across eB** resellers punting old Gates belt kits that have been on the self for years..............
[God knows how long it was on the self for]

I've gone with the Dayco belt kit as a number 2 ..........
As I've had relatively good results with them ...........
But I've either sold the vehicle on within a year or so, it's not been mine [informed them of] or changed it a bit before book time..........

Long long time ago I bought an unmolested there some engine bay fire damage to sound deadning [With 16 bent valves, broken valve guides and missing teeth from belt] and rebuilt the top end of a lowish mileage [36,000Mls at about 9-10yrs old] red top engine in a SRI Cavalier.............
Decided to plump for an OEM ...GM ...Timing belt kit and within 500Mls I had an issue with a pulley wheel squeeking and loosing it's bearing grease.........

Was the first and last OEM Kit I ever personally bought............ not long about 18 months after that I acepted an offer I couldn't refuse and bought a facelift V6 Omega to find GM had reduced the cambelt intervals from 80,000 down to 40,000Mls ..................

Needless to Say My car was 49 months old and on 62,000Mls with original belt ................
[Belt was good turned out pulley wheels were iffy] ... Still ! ..........

Last edited by vaz2121 (2021-08-23 06:24:04)

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-23 19:11:31

What is the timing belt interval for one of these vans? 60k?

Since I will have to get it fitted by a garage I might just see how much they would charge for one and let them handle sourcing it. Is it worth getting the water pump done at the same time, or leave it?

Stu-D · 2021-08-24 00:43:45

Pathfinder100 wrote:

What is the timing belt interval for one of these vans? 60k?
Since I will have to get it fitted by a garage I might just see how much they would charge for one and let them handle sourcing it. Is it worth getting the water pump done at the same time, or leave it?

To be safe I'd do every 60k anyway bud along with the water pump, I do the same with my 1.9 PD golf, and the van if it lasts till it's next belt change lol.

Last edited by Stu-D (2021-08-24 00:44:26)

BlantyreBotanicals · 2021-08-24 23:34:17

Pathfinder100 wrote:

As for the EGR, I would like to blank it if possible and yes I know it voids the MOT and if its found out its an instant fail. But if its a major pain to get to, I don't see any mechanic spending the time to take the engine apart to get at it.

Don't. Just block the vacuum pipe that you already located with a ball bearing.

BlantyreBotanicals · 2021-08-24 23:42:12

Pathfinder100 wrote:

...
I am going to have a look at the bottom of the engine. I believe the plate with the VIN and engine code is on the nearside bottom, near the oil sump. I will go and find out exactly which model it is, but I think its the RHZ. To find parts so far, I have to admit ECP is still the best for detection...

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/PSA_EW/DW_engine#DW8

Must be one of these for your engine too. Yes, it's in the VIN. On my van the vin is on the C pillar when opening the side (or front?) Door.

Edit: yup here. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/PSA_EW/DW_engine#DW10

Beware, there are a number of changes after the RHZ one. Check the table in the link above. I pasted the RHZ entry below

DW10 ATED / RHZ 109 PS (80 kW; 108 hp) common rail Turbo-diesel catalyst

The next one is the DW10 ATED4, 16v version

Last edited by BlantyreBotanicals (2021-08-24 23:47:10)

JohnDragonMan · 2021-08-26 01:33:26

hmm if you are still getting a lack of power going up hills it could be the EGR passing a little... it could also be a pretty clogged up intake manifold. really EGR build up is like cholesterol. sadly theres not really an easy way to clean it out on these other than take the manifold off. even i left mine as it is. design and mechanically speaking these DW10 HDIs are an exact copy of the older XUD which i have done lots of work on. so i know a intake manifold off job is not really an easy thing to do.

the cam belt is pretty easy to do once you have removed the engine mount. just make sure the engine is supported (jacked up) before you undo it. only one 10mm bolt for the cam belt cover is a bit of a pain to get to but can be done from the wheel arch. youll know which one, its facing backwards. while you have the cam belt off, i recommend replacing both the main crank oil seal and the cam shaft oil seal.. just as a precaution. mine were starting to weep and i am trying to keep my van "oil (externally) free". its a very clean engine so far! though i am starting to get a "wetness" around the high pressure pump which is diesel getting out from somewhere.
this was the timing belt kit i used on my van with the RHZ engine..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Timing-Belt- … 3.l4275.c1

as for the MOT, tape is your best friend. the UK has one rule that can help when parts are no longer made and you have to make your own totally strong enough but questionably looking home made replacement. the rule goes:
all items must be tested visually and on performance. however if a visual inspection cannot be done due to the item being covered or out of sight, it can only be tested on performance.

MOT testes are not allowed to remove anything from a vehicle. yes, even tape.
so that means, ball joint dust cover split? wrap it in tape. CV boot split? tape. bushes look like hell but still work fine? tape.
perfect for those parts you ordered that never arived on time for the MOT test.

naughty to do it but sometimes its necessary.

always tell the MOT tester to give your vehicle a damn good testing. the test is around for a reason. for saftey. something that should never be over looked or skimped out on.
and always remeber, the most important thing on any vehicle is what makes it stop!

Last edited by JohnDragonMan (2021-08-26 01:40:35)

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-26 02:05:42

Yeah i've used the duct tape trick on my bike before now when getting it tested, for cracked fairings, etc.

Yes as expected it still has no power on hills, in fact i would say its worse than a week back. Maybe the turbo is dying. But I don't think the wastegate is stuck open, as in my head that would mean the turbo would either spin up extremely high or not at all. When I go up a hill and rev, the turbo revs up as you would expect, but no power is generated. I still think it's a hose somewhere with a hole or split in it. I am going to go back over all the hoses, although they were supposedly checked by the garage I put it into last week. Failing that, maybe it is the EGR that's gummed up. If it is the intake manifold, then yes I won't be touching it and it can stay broken. Is it possible to get the EGR off without taking everything apart? I know its round the back of the engine somewhere. I would be up for trying to remove it and clean it up, if I can get to it. Today i did the MAF and cleaned up the sensor below the airbox. Since doing the MAF I no longer have error codes, but the power problem remains.

As for leaks, I have a power steering fluid leak on the offside front wheel. i will be pulling that wheel off to see if I can find where it's coming from and then I guess, get a new hose for it. Also diesel is definitely leaking from somewhere on that side, as well. Need to trace that at some point. For now the big killer is the power steering fluid, its dropped about a shot glass worth since last week. I'll get it up on the axle stands this weekend and see if I can track it down.

I wish my engine was externally oil free. Unfortunately when that hose split from the pressure solenoid, I think oil was spraying all over for a while as everything is covered in oil on that side of the engine.

Timing belt is beyond my capabilities. I wish i could do it myself, but its one of those tasks that I'm not confident enough to do. Brakes and pretty much anything else I can slave over and get done, but timing/cam belts are more for seasoned mechanics, of which i am not one.

In many ways if I had access to a decent garage i would probably consider removing the engine completely, which would afford me the opportunity to check everything over and fix issues like the manifold and EGR.

JohnDragonMan · 2021-08-27 02:01:08

the most easy fix for the EGR is just a blanking plate install. that will stop it passing completely.
you say you are getting no smoke now when going up hills? hmm theres usually only 2 places a boost hose splits on these and thats the 2x right angle pipes. one accessible from under the van on the front of the engine (this just went on mine) and the other just in front of the alternator going into the intercooler.
it is known that the intercooler its self can also "become holey".

with the oil location my guess is that the one in front of the alternator has a split in it... it is strange that its not smoking though.

you could be naughty and pull the vacuum hose from off the waste gate solenoid.. maybe thats allowing vacuum to pass through it keeping the waste gate open.. ?
sure youll have a bit of over boost but just for a quick test it wont hurt juat to see if you have a little more power than you did.

anyway, the right angel boost pipe in front of the alternator dimensions are different at each end of the pipe. one end is 63mm (2.5") the other is 57mm (2.25")
this is the one i have bought (ready for when it goes):
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303521036957 … 2735315232

the other right angle pipe is the same size on both ends.. its 54mm (2.13")

honestly, the amount of vehicles i have saved from being scrapped due to fixing split hoses.. old petrol carb and vac advance was the best.. cant understand why it wont pass emissions? not combusting right! spark off or air getting in. ahh the good old days when it was silly simple to work on cars.

vaz2121 · 2021-08-27 15:55:36

Just incase your issue is the turbo ... I had a lack of power on my 307 and it turned out to be fitted with a variable vane turbo as opposed to the "ordinary type".................
That the vanes had become sticky and rusty and didn't operate correctly...........
[This was partly it's demise to my ownership of it]

Apparently since then i was told fill the chamber with oven cleaner and leave it to do it's thing for a couple hours............
Maybe worth a look................

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-27 19:23:03

JohnDragonMan wrote:

with the oil location my guess is that the one in front of the alternator has a split in it... it is strange that its not smoking though.

It actually was until it went into the garage for fault finding the other week. Also i ran half a bottle of redex through it and around 10L of BP Ultimate and 10L of regular diesel in the hope that any crap in the engine would be eliminated. I don't think its the redex tbh, its something they did at the garage. Still its better than it was in terms of that. Also the fact it is no longer throwing up error codes but is quite obviously still broken.

Tomorrow I will be doing some fault finding on it. I will have a look at the hose by the alternator and the intercooler. if I can get at the wastegate solenoid I will try disconnecting the vacuum hose and see if that changes things.

If I said this engine has been abused by the last couple of owners, I wouldn't be lying. The oil and air filters had definitely not been changed in a year or two. The oil was really bad. The gearbox oil is still to be done, but i expect that to be like treacle. But rust wise it wasn't too bad. There's still bits in the engine compartment and those square boxs behind the rear bumper still need work, but bodywork was pretty good for the age. Mostly the whole engine compartment was caked in a white dust, like plaster or cement. I've cleaned up a lot of it, but it's still pretty bad. i will get on top of it eventually.

If after all fault finding and maybe replacing most of the hoses, it still doesn't work, then i guess removing the turbo is the only thing left to do. At that point I will start looking at whether i can do it. I know its a big job.

JohnDragonMan · 2021-08-28 02:18:17

note i said wastegate solenoid.. not wastegate actuator. so much more easy to just pull the pipe off from the solenoid.

heh i dont know about the HDI but if the old XUD is anything to go on, i bought a 306 estate 1.9 turbo XUD that in 14 years never had an oil change.. just topped up.
they will survive neglect.. thought bad as it sounds.
i guess it could be oil starvation to the turbo if everything else has been rulled out.

im actually sat in the back of my van right now in the middle of a field. laptop on knee, diesel heater on low, jacking wifi from a pub the next vilage over. loving it!

kenbw2 · 2021-08-28 13:34:27

JohnDragonMan wrote:

im actually sat in the back of my van right now in the middle of a field. laptop on knee, diesel heater on low, jacking wifi from a pub the next vilage over. loving it!

Sounds super cosy, I love that these vans are just perfect for daily drivers but also a nice place to hang out

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-29 00:46:59

Admittedly I didn't do any of my mechanical jobs. i had been putting off doing the last of the insulation due to mask filter woes. So I manned up and got it done, amid some coughing and dry retching. Just need to put some on the wheel arch sides tomorrow.

Looking at Monday for getting it up on the ramps.

JohnDragonMan · 2021-08-30 01:09:39

closed cell foam with the foil backing. thats where its at. usually self adhesive though i always add a little spray adhesive just because. then cover the closed cell foam with auto carpet. nice soft and warm to touch. had the heater on low all night and kept having to turn it off as low is not low enough!

Pathfinder100 · 2021-08-30 16:17:19

Now funnily enough that's sort of my plan. i have used two side silver foil with 5mm foam sandwiched in between, similar to the stuff they use for camping sleep mats. I have done most of the easy stuff, although i didn't glue the bit above the driver area, I just shoved a piece in and it seems pretty wedged in. I haven't done all the door cavities yet, only the back doors are done. All cavities regardless of how much closed cell I put in them, have also been packed out with bubble wrap. Some of the upper indents on doors and panels have two sets, so 10mm of insulation. I will be stretch carpeting eventually, but not initially. I need to sort the mask issue out first. The vapours from the trim fix really annoy my lungs.

For now I decided to paint the inside white paint with blue hammered Hammerite. I've only done about 2/3 so far, but it looks pretty sweet. Eventually it will get carpeted over. For now I have plastic trim that came with the van that covers the walls and doors. I intend to cover those pieces in the carpet and maybe try and do the roof with carpet.

kenbw2 · 2021-08-31 12:21:04

Oooh, that looks really nice with the blue inside. I imagine it's all gonna be covered up though

For the roof, the taxi versions have moulded roof linings which could save you some faff. I got one from a scrapyard

Last edited by kenbw2 (2021-08-31 12:22:13)

Pathfinder100 · 2021-09-01 01:34:33

Initially it won't be. i need the van operational in 2 weeks. I thought an easy hack might be to paint all the white, blue and ply line the roof/ceiling and the offside rear upper indent, where the cooking area will be. Then put a light and selection of USB charger points in the van. That would make it basically liveable in. I also have a basic mains system to plumb in and mains battery charger.

Then when I have time I will add in the 4 way stretch carpet (which i have). Then the heater and fridge. Then finally upgrade the solar panel and add a drive away awning.

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#1 2021-07-27 17:11:38

P0243 WasteGate Solenoid Failure

#2 2021-08-20 23:03:07

Re: P0243 WasteGate Solenoid Failure

#3 2021-08-21 01:33:26

Re: P0243 WasteGate Solenoid Failure

#4 2021-08-21 03:03:46

Re: P0243 WasteGate Solenoid Failure

#5 2021-08-21 15:39:15

Re: P0243 WasteGate Solenoid Failure

#6 2021-08-22 12:17:42

Re: P0243 WasteGate Solenoid Failure

#7 2021-08-22 12:34:51

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#8 2021-08-22 18:15:47

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#9 2021-08-23 06:21:14

Re: P0243 WasteGate Solenoid Failure

#10 2021-08-23 19:11:31

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#11 2021-08-24 00:43:45

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#12 2021-08-24 23:34:17

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#13 2021-08-24 23:42:12

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#14 2021-08-26 01:33:26

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#15 2021-08-26 02:05:42

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#16 2021-08-27 02:01:08

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#17 2021-08-27 15:55:36

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#18 2021-08-27 19:23:03

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#19 2021-08-28 02:18:17

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#20 2021-08-28 13:34:27

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#21 2021-08-29 00:46:59

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#22 2021-08-30 01:09:39

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#23 2021-08-30 16:17:19

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#24 2021-08-31 12:21:04

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#25 2021-09-01 01:34:33

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