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Good morning guys, Can anyone please tell me how to adjust the top front corner of both sliding doors on my 2004 dispatch 2.0 hdi facelift as i`m at my wits end i`ve tried most things but to no avail.
Any help from you guys would be very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
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You probably already know that they never do fit well at the pillars.
As for adjusting, most posts suggest it's not as easy as it should be. A slight adjustment in one place tending to have an unwanted movement elsewhere. Otherwise it seems to be just a question of small adjustments and patience.
It's a while since I did mine but I think the main problem was it pivoting about half way up. Adjusting the top in forcing the bottom out.
I have noticed on the three doors I have fiddled with, that there were different thickness spacer washers on two of them. My van didn't have any spacers. When I tried to replace a door on I couldn't get it right until I returned to the scrapper I took the door off and picked up the spacers. As with the van I took them off, I used them at the bottom only and the door then fit well with a bit of adjustment.
Seems odd to me that spacing the door out at the bottom by 4-6mm would help but it did.
Last edited by OAT (2022-08-29 20:10:22)
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Seems odd to me that spacing the door out at the bottom by 4-6mm would help but it did.
You got a picture of that, mate? Got the same problem on my van...
2003 Citroen Jumpy 1.9D
Famous last words: How Hard Can It Be
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They are just big thick washers behind the brackets:-
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Amqy9Ts__7jzkDrheGq … i?e=6aWSip
Last edited by OAT (2022-08-31 18:27:12)
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sliding doors are a pain on all vans. our iveco daily, its like having a skylight.. until i fixed it.
what it did was on the top runner, i packed it out with washers. not the brackets as they can make the door push out.
its a bit of a trial and error thing but the more you can get the runners towards the middle of the vehicle the better the doors sit in. the top runner is thankfully quite easy to take off then slide some washers up behind it while you put the torques bolts back through. the aim is to sandwich the washer between the runner and the van, lifting the runner away from what it mounts on. it works really well with mine.
the iveco.. i ended up cutting the bracket in half, cutting out 3cm then welding it back together it was THAT bad. now it sits in and presses against the rubber seal perfectly 
hope this helps!
just remember the pivot point on the door is the rear outer runner on the back end of the door. if you pack washers under the lower bracket between the door and bracket you will push the bottom out but also bring the top in. the same happens only in reverse if you do the same for the top bracket.. which i why i say do it to the runner as it wont make the pivot thing happen.
the bottom of the doors always seals. its always the top that seem to come away.
Last edited by JohnDragonMan (2022-08-31 19:23:22)
- JohnDragonMan
Notice: I have the tendency to void warranties, blow fuses, cause fires, and other fun stuff.
Words of wisdom: Internally rust proof the sills and subframe! both skins!!. There's always user serviceable parts inside. "Oh that shouldn't have happened".
My 2005 Dispatch Camper Project 
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So to be clear, John... is it the bolt in front of the top rail you spaced out? The one over the cab-lining? Sorry for being a little slow... 
2003 Citroen Jumpy 1.9D
Famous last words: How Hard Can It Be
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Thank you all very much for your replies, i will try the washers behind the top rail also mine does not have any spacers at all, & yes Jumpy Joe i will post a picture of the problem i have.
Best regards to you all.
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So to be clear, John... is it the bolt in front of the top rail you spaced out? The one over the cab-lining? Sorry for being a little slow...
yes. the more you space that away from the body the more it will hold the door shut to the van. you can quite literally go nuts as the doors latch is at the back of the door not the front. just be careful as you can make the door rub paint away if you space it out too much. were talking a good cm worth of spacing though
- JohnDragonMan
Notice: I have the tendency to void warranties, blow fuses, cause fires, and other fun stuff.
Words of wisdom: Internally rust proof the sills and subframe! both skins!!. There's always user serviceable parts inside. "Oh that shouldn't have happened".
My 2005 Dispatch Camper Project 
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I had the same problem with mine, I first realised that where the doors fit onto the bottom brackets, there are elongated holes. I just unscrewed the torx bolts a little, moved the bottom of the door away from the van a couple of mm and then re tightened the bolts and that moved the top of the door in. Its trial and error but that is how you adjust the doors, no need for spacers.
I found a link in another post on the forum for the little plastic locating cups on ebay that fit into the van body at the front of the sliding door. Also the male locating lug (which fits into that cup) that is bolted onto the top leading edge of the door, is on elongated holes, so you can loosen that and move it quite a bit too and then re tighten it. Before you move it though, it's a good idea to draw round it with a sharpie, that way you can move it back to the starting point if you mess it up, as well as being able to see how much you have moved the locating lug.
In addition, the locating loop that the door lock closes into, can also be loosened moved in and out and re tightened, this will pull the rear of the door closer to the body but be careful not to over do it, it may move the front of the door out a little if you do.
I hope that covers everything.
Last edited by GRIFFIN (2022-09-10 22:55:04)
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