You are not logged in.
Pages: 1
so my old alternator went all smokey and red hot. kinda like a nuclear fission reaction. fun. glowing.
so i got it replaced with one from AutoDoc and.. its still not charging. the battery light is on, theres power getting to the main big connector on the alternator, the smaller connector is for the battery light with is lit up on the dash but somehow when the engine is running, its not charging.
i did go for the higher powered output alternator (all the same connections).. i guess it needs computer wizardry to make it work.. sigh why change things that have worked fine since alternators started being put on vehicles. sigh i guess they have to invent more ways of making money from you.
do you think i have done something wrong in my install? otherwise i cant figure it out. this is the one i bought:
- JohnDragonMan
Notice: I have the tendency to void warranties, blow fuses, cause fires, and other fun stuff.
Words of wisdom: Internally rust proof the sills and subframe! both skins!!. There's always user serviceable parts inside. "Oh that shouldn't have happened".
My 2005 Dispatch Camper Project 
Offline
Looks like a typical no frills alternator to me
the 150A only specifies its load capacity not voltage which should regulate
at 14-14.5V ish
You may have just been sold a wrong un, it does happen but first
I'd disconnect the battery and do a continuity test on the main power cable
from the alternator to the battery terminal
Then the same between the battery ground terminal to the alternator body
because if it isnt properly grounded, the regulator cannot properly determine the voltage to regulate at with respect to ground.
next I'd check the alternator power output terminal isnt short to ground
you may get a few megaohms of internal leakage but anything else is suspect.
With checks done and all cable and contacts checked and cleaned
measure/note the battery standing voltage and connect up only the original components
( no add ons or other gadgetry) and run the motor and read the voltage across the battery terminals.
My 2006 2.0 HDI runs close to 14.2V mostly with some minor drops (say 13.9V) if under heavy load
If you're not getting close to this I'd suspect the alternator is faulty
and suggest you get the alternator checked or return it
BTW £290 ?? jeez that's a lot of dosh, I saw a 150A Hella one on Ebay for £150
Last edited by RegW (2024-09-15 01:59:22)
When all else fails, RTFM - 2006 Expert 2.0 HDI/110
Offline
Both of you are wrong
Particular alternator regulators are making all the difference in operating charge regardless of rmp. So if small connector doesn't commute with (LIN 1, 1.1 , or 2 or 3) or even it is different chip all together - it will never work correctly.
Got to find correct P/N , normally it's Valeo and then pick the correct aftermarket alternator in accordance.
Post here or PM me your VIN, I'll do my best in the morning to find you what's needed/suited etc etc.
Offline
Bah I knew they would have done do something to make it incompatible so you can't put the larger alternator on.
I was worried when I bought a vehicle with an ECU.. guhh. No way at all to trick it into giving out full power all the time... Like how alternators used to be? To be honest I would rather change the regulator out with an old fashioned style that just uses a bit of resistance to excite the coils. It was a bit of a faf trying to get it in with the Aircon pump in the way.
I have become very lazy when it comes to working on vehicles.. I even paid someone to fit this for me. I did however go through all of the wiring to make sure it was all good.
Yeah costly but I managed to get it when it was on sale for about half the price.
Hmm how can I get the vin from in the house without going to where the van is parked up (miles away).. I sadly never use it much now the old panda is on the road.
AHH 5v should have it.. want me to PM it you?
- JohnDragonMan
Notice: I have the tendency to void warranties, blow fuses, cause fires, and other fun stuff.
Words of wisdom: Internally rust proof the sills and subframe! both skins!!. There's always user serviceable parts inside. "Oh that shouldn't have happened".
My 2005 Dispatch Camper Project 
Offline
Bah I knew they would have done do something to make it incompatible so you can't put the larger alternator on.
I was worried when I bought a vehicle with an ECU.. guhh. No way at all to trick it into giving out full power all the time... Like how alternators used to be? To be honest I would rather change the regulator out with an old fashioned style that just uses a bit of resistance to excite the coils. It was a bit of a faf trying to get it in with the Aircon pump in the way.I have become very lazy when it comes to working on vehicles.. I even paid someone to fit this for me. I did however go through all of the wiring to make sure it was all good.
Yeah costly but I managed to get it when it was on sale for about half the price.
Hmm how can I get the vin from in the house without going to where the van is parked up (miles away).. I sadly never use it much now the old panda is on the road.
AHH V5 should have it.. want me to PM it you?
VIN is on V5 too, but that's gonna be a task for sometimes later, if not for after the opp now... Sorry
(Off to hospital tonight/tomorrow, repairs on the bodge done on one of the knees on Monday, so it's frightening amount of shit to do beforehand.)
Or punch in yourself, then be careful selecting absolutely identical one for spec, then there are sites that will give you correct "aftermarket" parameters etc. Once again it is the damn intelligent regulator chip, that makes or brakes whole deal, and thank fudgge, it's not programable like most of the rest of bits and bobs
https://www.ssg.asia/
Offline
Pages: 1