Immobiliser keypad woes 1997 Dispatch

R85two · 2024-07-30 08:41:18

Having issues with the keypad on my dispatch

I had a fuel leak which I have hopefully solved, unfortunately since the leak appeared I've not been using the van and the battery is flat.

Having charged and refitted the car no longer accepts the previously working immobiliser code, and instead both the green and red lights stay lit.

I'm assuming I need to do something to pair the immobiliser with whatever reads it within the van.

I've tried searching on here and a few other forums, but I can't find anything relevant and am tempted to ring we buy any car to see when they can collect.

kenbw2 · 2024-07-30 23:51:36

Some information from FrenchCarForum https://frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1358

Suggestions are try the codes 1111 or 0001 (or 0000)

richard,
here is the infomation on changing the code etc (as copyed from owners manual):-
WARNING: AFTER 3 SUCCESSIVE FALSE ATTEMPTS; THE KEYBOARD WILL BE LOCKED AUTOMATICALLY FOR ONE MINUTE.
FIRST PROGRAMMING OF THE CODE, INGNITION ON,
1- enetr the code 0001
2- press key C
3- entre your personal 4 figure code
4- press the C key to validate
four flashes of the green waring lamp and an audible"beep" indicate that the information is recorded.
TO CHANEG THE CODE, IGNITION SIWTCHED ON,
1- enetr your old code already in the memory
2- press key C
3- enter your new confidential 4 figure code
4- press key C to validate
four flashes of the grenn waring lamp and four audible "beeps" indicate that the information is recorded.
SECURITY PROCEDURE
the two codes (old & new) ar valid until one is used to start the engine.
should there be no confirmation (4 flashes & 4 beeps) turn off the ignition, then tun on and start the whole prcess again.
if more than 4 figures have been entered by mistake, before pressing key C, only the first 4 will be memorised.
if both red & green warning lamps are flshing simultaneously, this indicates an incorrect entry or a malfunction.
turn the ignition off, thenturn on and start the whole process agin. if this condition persists, consult the nearest citroen dealer. (yeah right<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>).
NEUTRAL MODE
this mode is the only one that prevents automatic locking of the system on switiching off the ignition.
1st possibilly- enter your personal code already memorised then press the key D/N (DEFER/NEUTRAL) for 2 seconds.
2nd possibilly- follow the code changing procedure using 0000 as the new code.
to get out of this mode, enter your confidential code with the ignition on.
DEFFERRED LOCKING MODE
press the D/N (ignition on) to delay locking of the injection system for one hour.
durring this time, you need not re-enter the code tio start the engine. the deferred locking is indicated by flashing of the green warning lamp and an audible "beep" for 30 seconds after the ignition being turned off.
to cancel the deferrewd lopcking press key D/N.
idenification of system status from out side the vehicle.
LOCKING ENGAGED
the red warning lamp lights up continupusly for 10 seconds after the system has been activated then flashes until the ignition is nexted turned on.
LOCKING DEFERRED
the red warning lamp starts flashing after one hour and continues until the ignition is next turned on.
IN CASE OF BREAKDOWN OR BATTERY DICONNECTION, THE CONFIDENTIAL CODE REMAINS IN THE MEMORY.
hope this is of some help for you rich
dom

JohnDragonMan · 2024-08-01 00:49:09

what engine do you have? if its the XUD you can just wire to stop solenoid into an ignition live. done that a few times heh

R85two · 2025-04-14 09:45:46

JohnDragonMan wrote:

what engine do you have? if its the XUD you can just wire to stop solenoid into an ignition live. done that a few times heh

I know it's been a while since this was posted, however I am still in the same situation.

I don't know if it's an XUD engine, assuming it is, do you know if there are any guides anywhere for doing this bypass?

Thanks

kenbw2 · 2025-04-14 13:22:58

Sorry to hear you're still struggling. No joy with the default codes I assume?

If it's 1997 then it'll be XUD

The only bypass I'm aware of is what JohnDragonMan is referring to. There's a stop solenoid that you can wire up to ignition live, but it's shielded by a metal cover that you need to get a bit drilly on to get access

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r_H125imwc

R85two · 2025-04-14 13:41:12

kenbw2 wrote:

Sorry to hear you're still struggling. No joy with the default codes I assume?
If it's 1997 then it'll be XUD
The only bypass I'm aware of is what JohnDragonMan is referring to. There's a stop solenoid that you can wire up to ignition live, but it's shielded by a metal cover that you need to get a bit drilly on to get access
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r_H125imwc

I did have a watch of that video and speak with the person who recorded it as I found it elsewhere on this forum

I have looked at my engine bay which looks fairly different to the one in the video, and honestly I have no idea what I am doing.

I'm now trying to find someone near me that I can pay to do the bypass as otherwise the van will be getting scrapped when I move house (unless the buyers want it as an ornament)

kenbw2 · 2025-04-14 13:42:54

R85two wrote:

I'm now trying to find someone near me that I can pay to do the bypass as otherwise the van will be getting scrapped when I move house (unless the buyers want it as an ornament)

Where abouts are you? I know a place in Yorkshire who will do the bypass, but any old school mechanic should have the know-how

R85two · 2025-04-14 13:46:05

I'm in Suffolk, close to the Cambridgeshire border

Yorkshire might be difficult lol

RegW · 2025-04-14 15:27:37

Just watched the vid and wondered why not tap into the loom, cut the solenoid wire and connect that to a 12v supply?
no need to remove the armour then.

kenbw2 · 2025-04-14 17:40:39

RegW wrote:

Just watched the vid and wondered why not tap into the loom, cut the solenoid wire and connect that to a 12v supply?
no need to remove the armour then.

I can't think of a reason to disagree with you, but surely there has to be a reason? Otherwise it renders the immobiliser a bit useless. And if it were that simple then why would anyone do all that to the armour

I'm gonna assume the matching of the code (or transponder) happens inside the armour in these "wires and electronics", which then gives the 12V to the solenoid

RegW · 2025-04-14 18:24:36

I'll admit didn't follow the vid that closely and the OP is pretty vague about what he has exactly and doesn't provide any pics so we can only make guesses.
If it were mine I'd be examining wiring diagrams to determine the possibility of externally hacking it.

Going by the pic just posted, that grey part may be a relay which has power but will only feed the solenoid say on a short internal lead under the armour when enabled by the control unit after a code is input on the panel.
This would make breaking into the box necessary in order to jump the relay.
I'd have it gone anyway even if I had the code cos inputting a code every time you want to nip to the shops
would be a chore and I'd fit a more modern remote alarm system and maybe a hidden switch too.

Last edited by RegW (2025-04-14 18:32:24)

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#1 2024-07-30 08:41:18

Immobiliser keypad woes 1997 Dispatch

#2 2024-07-30 23:51:36

Re: Immobiliser keypad woes 1997 Dispatch

#3 2024-08-01 00:49:09

Re: Immobiliser keypad woes 1997 Dispatch

#4 2025-04-14 09:45:46

Re: Immobiliser keypad woes 1997 Dispatch

#5 2025-04-14 13:22:58

Re: Immobiliser keypad woes 1997 Dispatch

#6 2025-04-14 13:41:12

Re: Immobiliser keypad woes 1997 Dispatch

#7 2025-04-14 13:42:54

Re: Immobiliser keypad woes 1997 Dispatch

#8 2025-04-14 13:46:05

Re: Immobiliser keypad woes 1997 Dispatch

#9 2025-04-14 15:27:37

Re: Immobiliser keypad woes 1997 Dispatch

#10 2025-04-14 17:40:39

Re: Immobiliser keypad woes 1997 Dispatch

#11 2025-04-14 18:24:36

Re: Immobiliser keypad woes 1997 Dispatch

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