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Hi lads (and lassies) first post on this interesting forum. A couple of questions, recently I purchased a 2006 Dispatch with the 2.0 litre HDI engine, I have a Partner with the same unit so am familiar with its good and bad points! However this van has a problem with the alternator, the charging light only comes on when the engine starts but it is putting 14.75 volts through the battery so I'm guessing a diode issue and am going to fit a fresh alternator in the next few days which hopefully will sort that out. What I'm not sure about are the electric windows, they only work when the alternator is charging. I would assume that they SHOULD operate with the key in the first position like my Partner, is that the case and if so then I will have to find where to take the feed from as I really need them to work without running the engine. Advice welcomed.
Second issue, on the rear (flywheel end) of the engine is a vertical black plastic stub about three inches long between the thermostat housing and the part of the head where the vacuum pump is situated, there are no pipes etc near it and my Partners engine doesn't have it. Looking at pics of engines on the web it seems peculiar to the vans, can somebody please tell me what should be fastened onto it as it is worrying me slightly! My friend had the van for a few years and he hadn't even noticed it there, but he isn't mechanically minded alas. Once again, thank's for reading this long winded post and all advice welcomed! 
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Are you revving the engine when you get that 14.75v ? If so i would not worry. when it gets to 15v on tick over i may start to look into it more. As for the rest, not got a clue but welcome anyway
Nah, i had the 1.9 non turbo and wind by hand windows. Good old reliable technology 
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Are you revving the engine when you get that 14.75v ? If so i would not worry. when it gets to 15v on tick over i may start to look into it more. As for the rest, not got a clue but welcome anyway
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Nah, i had the 1.9 non turbo and wind by hand windows. Good old reliable technology
Thank's Casper, I wish that I had wind up windows as well!
Regarding the charging side of things that reading is on tickover, I might try revving it tomorrow (if it ever stops raining) and take another reading. Odd that the red light doesn't come on until the engine starts, it should be the other way round of course! Hopefully someone will be along to advise me on the stub and window operation, though a lad down the road has a similar van so I might have a word with him.
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Sorry totally missed the light coming on. Aye, be concerned, i would expext that if reving. Even if it was shitty belt i would say low or no reading
https://www.w8ji.com/battery_and_charging_system.htm
To fully charge in reasonable times, alternator output must be 14.2 V to 14.5 V as measured right across the battery posts. Above 14.5 volts charging voltage, batteries have a greatly increased tendency to release excessive acidic vapors, hydrogen gas, and to corrode things around the battery. The battery terminal charging voltage must be less than 14.7 volts to prevent excessive gassing. Charging voltages over 14.7 volts can prematurely dry the battery by boiling out electrolyte, and increase risk of a battery hydrogen gas explosion.
Its not so much an alternator on the bikes but a regulator rectifier running from a generator/stator. Killed a few battery's over the years when the reg/rec side goes tits up pumping out to many volts.
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With the windows, probably the relay failing - 13.5V not enough, 14.5V OK
Personally I couldn't see the sense in running the windows off the ignition, so I pulled the relay and shorted out the terminals, so the windows can be operated all the time. The window switches have (very dim) small orange lights that stay on all the time, so I snapped them off to avoid the small drain.
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Right, an update!
Today I checked the voltage both when on idle and at around mid speed and it is only charging at 14.43 volts so I guess that, even though the light is not functioning correctly, it is charging OK? My mate, who I bought the van off, delivered it to me in Derbyshire from Carlisle and then told me that the warning light came on faintly a few days before so he got a mechanic to check it over and he confirmed that it was working normally apart from the light problem. I may leave it for a while and see what develops, it starts OK even after a few days standing so I'm not too concerned as it isn't overcharging the battery.
The windows I will sort out, just having them working when the key is in the 'accessory position' like my Partner will be fine, the misses can open the window then without me having the engine running!
That just leaves this mysterious black stub/pipe, I can feel slight suction when I place my finger over the end so it obviously feeds into the inlet side of the head but what should connect to it I know not! The cars don't have it! Maybe a Dispatch turbo owner can advise me, I have seen a pic on ebay of an angled connector fastened to it but where or what it feeds I haven't a clue?
Thank's for the advice anyway, I also have an oil leak from the valve cover gasket and that looks like a fun task to tackle as access isn't a strong point with these vans!
Pete.
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From this site
http://www.aa1car.com/library/charging_checks.htm
The exact charging voltage will vary according to the battery's state of charge, the load on the vehicle's electrical system, and temperature. The lower the temperature the higher the charging voltage, and the higher the temperature the lower the charging voltage. The "normal" charging voltage on a typical application might be 13.9 to 15.1 volts at 77 degrees F. But at 20 degrees F. below zero, the charging voltage might jump as high as 14.9 to 15.8 volts for a short period of time. On a hot engine on a hot day, the normal charging voltage might drop to 13.5 to 14.3 volts.
So yours may be fine.
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Sorry ruston. Stumped on your stump.
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Another update, today I fitted an exchange alternator and still the ignition light doesn't illuminate! An auto electrician would seem to be the next step. On the plus side I found that all the bearings in the various tensioner pulleys etc were rattly so I replaced them and the engine is much quieter so at least something positive has been acheived.
Pete.
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You had the clocks out and made sure the charge light works or even a clean connection? its starting to sound like someone has been dicking about with the loom as i have never been in a motor where you need the engine running to operate the electric windows. Some you need the ignition on yes but never running.
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You had the clocks out and made sure the charge light works or even a clean connection? its starting to sound like someone has been dicking about with the loom as i have never been in a motor where you need the engine running to operate the electric windows. Some you need the ignition on yes but never running.
My neighbour has owned a Pug 307 from new and the engine needs to be running to operate the windows on that Casper. It caught me out when I was replacing the cambelt and water pump on it and had the drivers window down, I hurridly had to get the engine running with no water just to close the window at night and that is the first time I had come across this! The dash has been out and the light works OK when I put power to it, I spoke to an auto electrician and he said that it isn't a common problem but suspects a cable has broken somewhere so more delving needs to be done when I get time. A good job that I don't need to use the van until March!
Pete.
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