Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

woodbine · 2021-03-03 16:28:20

I need to change my Scudo 2.0 Jtd gear cables as they've done 100,000 miles of mostly town driving and are getting a bit sloppy now. Not done this job before so have a few questions;

Is this an easy enough DIY job?

Shhould I buy Fiat cables (seem to be over £200!) or are the pattern ones OK? And recommendations for other brands?

How much dash do I need to remove?

Some parts suppliers listing say their cable is for vans with ML5C gearbox only. How do I know if my van has this box?

Can anyone who's done this job give me a basic description of cable removal and refitting please?

Thanks for any help and advice.

Last edited by woodbine (2021-03-03 16:39:03)

OAT · 2021-03-03 18:16:29

I haven't done the job myself but I think the gearbox difference relates to if it needs to be lifted to engage reverse or not.

There was a thread on it recently.

edit..... https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … hp?id=1199

There are a few others if you search for "gear cables"

Last edited by OAT (2021-03-03 18:19:15)

woodbine · 2021-03-03 18:48:02

Thanks for your reply, OAT. Think I've established that I have ML5C gearbox. I see in your link that Vaz has both sides of dash removed as well as the lower middle bit. Do I need to remove all this? Can I just remove the lower middle bit on it's own?

vaz2121 · 2021-03-04 10:59:57

woodbine wrote:

Thanks for your reply, OAT. Think I've established that I have ML5C gearbox. I see in your link that Vaz has both sides of dash removed as well as the lower middle bit. Do I need to remove all this? Can I just remove the lower middle bit on it's own?

In my van anyway in order to get out one piece of dash the other part had to be loosened off so much ...... Therefore ended up less hassle to just remove it and less chance that I'd break it............

I removed no more than I believe needed.............

woodbine · 2021-03-04 21:36:46

vaz2121 wrote:

woodbine wrote:
Thanks for your reply, OAT. Think I've established that I have ML5C gearbox. I see in your link that Vaz has both sides of dash removed as well as the lower middle bit. Do I need to remove all this? Can I just remove the lower middle bit on it's own?
In my van anyway in order to get out one piece of dash the other part had to be loosened off so much ...... Therefore ended up less hassle to just remove it and less chance that I'd break it............
I removed no more than I believe needed.............

OK, thanks OAT. Don't suppose it will be to difficult to get the dash off.

One question - is there a gear I should put the gearstick in to make it easier to change the cable? Or just leave it in neutral?

vaz2121 · 2021-03-06 11:31:31

woodbine wrote:

vaz2121 wrote:
In my van anyway in order to get out one piece of dash the other part had to be loosened off so much ...... Therefore ended up less hassle to just remove it and less chance that I'd break it............
I removed no more than I believe needed.............
OK, thanks OAT. Don't suppose it will be to difficult to get the dash off.
One question - is there a gear I should put the gearstick in to make it easier to change the cable? Or just leave it in neutral?

Lower half of dash removal was more fiddly than difficult...........

As far a what gear......
I think it was in neutral can't remember.....All I'll say is around gear lever mechanism there's not a lot of space and I imagine you'll have a bit of a fiddle to find easiest place to pop cable on..... and make sure it's on securely as my gate cable popped off [Gate cable gives movement across H pattern so to speak and from memory on my box is the right hand side ball on gear lever ......... Can't remember which ball on box but I think it could be left ...........If you pull/push the big arm thingon box it should indicate gear selector ...........Without gate cable connected naturally g/box with all being equal and operating as it should you'd get 3rd & 4th engagement moving lever back and forth]

My biggest PITA was the rubber boot sealer thing in floor adjusting cable length to it and sealing it in the hole in floor as a locking ring had undone and it wasnt fitting properly.................As soon as I'd figured out issue it popped in easily and then push in little locker button between cables to aid the spread of rubber ............. {Little locker button between cables can be removed by pulling it out rubber boot but don't loose it ........... Doesn't lock rubber in exactly but tightens everthing up}

Last edited by vaz2121 (2021-03-06 11:32:56)

Dellboy · 2021-03-06 14:57:12

before you do the cables check my quote on your other post (i do it for a living )

woodbine · 2021-03-07 15:47:32

Dellboy wrote:

before you do the cables check my quote on your other post (i do it for a living )

Thanks, Dellboy. Replied to you on other thread.

woodbine · 2021-03-07 17:01:54

vaz2121 wrote:

woodbine wrote:
vaz2121 wrote:
In my van anyway in order to get out one piece of dash the other part had to be loosened off so much ...... Therefore ended up less hassle to just remove it and less chance that I'd break it............
I removed no more than I believe needed.............
OK, thanks OAT. Don't suppose it will be to difficult to get the dash off.
One question - is there a gear I should put the gearstick in to make it easier to change the cable? Or just leave it in neutral?
Lower half of dash removal was more fiddly than difficult...........
As far a what gear......
I think it was in neutral can't remember.....All I'll say is around gear lever mechanism there's not a lot of space and I imagine you'll have a bit of a fiddle to find easiest place to pop cable on..... and make sure it's on securely as my gate cable popped off [Gate cable gives movement across H pattern so to speak and from memory on my box is the right hand side ball on gear lever ......... Can't remember which ball on box but I think it could be left ...........If you pull/push the big arm thingon box it should indicate gear selector ...........Without gate cable connected naturally g/box with all being equal and operating as it should you'd get 3rd & 4th engagement moving lever back and forth]
My biggest PITA was the rubber boot sealer thing in floor adjusting cable length to it and sealing it in the hole in floor as a locking ring had undone and it wasnt fitting properly.................As soon as I'd figured out issue it popped in easily and then push in little locker button between cables to aid the spread of rubber ............. {Little locker button between cables can be removed by pulling it out rubber boot but don't loose it ........... Doesn't lock rubber in exactly but tightens everthing up}

Thanks Vaz. Doesn't seem too bad then, just fiddly. Couple of metal clips too on a bracket between gearbox and bulkhead that gives cables some support.

And will remember to remove locking button to help rubber boot/bung fit in hole in floor.

woodbine · 2021-03-08 18:15:49

One question. When I'm putting the new cables on, is there anywhere that I should be oiling or putting grease on? Thinking it may be a good idea to put some grease in the cupped ends of the cables that snap onto the two balls on top of gearbox?

Zippypilot · 2021-03-08 20:31:18

woodbine wrote:

One question. When I'm putting the new cables on, is there anywhere that I should be oiling or putting grease on? Thinking it may be a good idea to put some grease in the cupped ends of the cables that snap onto the two balls on top of gearbox?

No, do not use grease or oils, the end cups are nylon and lubricating them will degrade this material. I know this sounds counterintuitive!

Make sure the balls are smooth, clean and free of corrosion and all is good.

Last edited by Zippypilot (2021-03-08 20:45:13)

OAT · 2021-03-08 23:01:40

Zippypilot wrote:

Make sure the balls are smooth, clean and free of corrosion

Sound advice there Zippy.

GRIFFIN · 2021-03-08 23:15:33

Zippypilot is right up to a point. Mineral oil/grease will degrade plastic and nylon but no lube may cause drag and binding over the long term.
When you need lube for plastic and or nylon parts, you should use silicone oil or grease. If you try fitting a plastic part to a metal part without any lube, you could brake or damage the plastic. My gear cables were going to be £200 for my Dispatch from a dealer but are available from eBay for £30 with a 5 year guarantee. As it happens, I used the ones off my dead Scudo in the back yard, which cost nothing but always make sure you get the right part obviously. If they tell you it will fit your vehicle and it doesn't then they should change it for free.

Zippypilot · 2021-03-09 00:30:54

GRIFFIN wrote:

Zippypilot is right up to a point. Mineral oil/grease will degrade plastic and nylon but no lube may cause drag and binding over the long term.
When you need lube for plastic and or nylon parts, you should use silicone oil or grease. If you try fitting a plastic part to a metal part without any lube, you could brake or damage the plastic. My gear cables were going to be £200 for my Dispatch from a dealer but are available from eBay for £30 with a 5 year guarantee. As it happens, I used the ones off my dead Scudo in the back yard, which cost nothing but always make sure you get the right part obviously. If they tell you it will fit your vehicle and it doesn't then they should change it for free.

Agree with your point also GRIFFIN, there are compatible lubricants with plastics, the other point of not needing these, is (apart from nylon self 'lubricates' if you like) is any grease/oil etc collects contaminants like grit/dust etc and holds them in suspension , they will ultimately wear the joint despite being held in the lubricant.

The click mechanism is good and doesn't need lubricating to fit. Hope this isn't too controversial lol just my experiences in engineering.

Last edited by Zippypilot (2021-03-09 00:44:18)

Zippypilot · 2021-03-09 00:40:19

OAT, sound advice indeed

GRIFFIN · 2021-03-11 18:45:27

Hahaha, no not too controversial at all, except the bit about keeping your balls clean, shiny and free from rust. yikes
Mine certainly aren't smooth and shiney. lol

Zippypilot · 2021-03-12 00:19:48

GRIFFIN wrote:

Hahaha, no not too controversial at all, except the bit about keeping your balls clean, shiny and free from rust.
Mine certainly aren't smooth and shiney.

I was trying to think of a better way to put it, trust me smile

woodbine · 2021-03-13 14:05:39

Thanks to all for your replies. Yes, the Fiat spares prices are ridiculous, £200 for a couple of cables. Fixed my ac last year because a rubber pipe that runs across top of gearbox had rubbed through on the mount. Fiat wanted over £300 for a rubber and metal pipe about 3' long. In the end, sent it away to an ac specialist in Benfleet and they crimped in a new section of rubber pipe and reused the alloy sections.

Anyway, I bought Fiat original OE cables for £67 inc P&P from Ebay. Hopfully they will last the 17 years that the originals did.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Scudo-2 … 2749.l2649

Another problem with Fiat spares for me is that the local Fiat dealer (Simonstone, Bristol) went bust last year. It's a bit of a trek to another dealer, because they were the only one in town. Anyway, I digress............

I was wondering more if the cable ends need grease/silicone grease where they snap onto the ball on gearbox selector. Only because the ball is metal and the cable ends are plastic. Wondered if lube would reduce plastic to metal wear. But it sounds if not required so I won't bother when I get around to fitting them soon. That's if the weather gets a bit warmer/drier.

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#1 2021-03-03 16:28:20

Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#2 2021-03-03 18:16:29

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#3 2021-03-03 18:48:02

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#4 2021-03-04 10:59:57

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#5 2021-03-04 21:36:46

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#6 2021-03-06 11:31:31

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#7 2021-03-06 14:57:12

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#8 2021-03-07 15:47:32

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#9 2021-03-07 17:01:54

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#10 2021-03-08 18:15:49

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#11 2021-03-08 20:31:18

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#12 2021-03-08 23:01:40

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#13 2021-03-08 23:15:33

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#14 2021-03-09 00:30:54

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#15 2021-03-09 00:40:19

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#16 2021-03-11 18:45:27

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#17 2021-03-12 00:19:48

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

#18 2021-03-13 14:05:39

Re: Scudo 2.0 Jtd Gear Cables - Questions

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