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I guess that was a link..?
Hi all.
X reg Scudo 1.9 non turbo.
As of yesterday, when I turn off the ignition (and remove the key), I still have dim sidelights and the warning buzzer. Clearly a short somewhere.
If I turn the sidelights on they brighten up, and the warning buzzer changes tone. So they are not getting full power from the short.
I suspected a stuck relay. But I have removed every one I can access, one by one, both in the dash and under the bonnet - no change. Not sure which ones do what anyway!
Unplugged the indicator stalk/light switch - no change.
If I remove fuse 25 (10A, stereo, interior lights. clock, instrument panel lights) the fault goes away. Instrument lights work fine. Stereo and interior lights dead - until I turn the sidelights on, then everything works again!
Unplugged the stereo - no change.
If I remove fuse 4 (5A, stereo, sidelights and buzzer, instrument panel lighting) there is no change at all.
What else has power when the ignition is off? Other than sidelights, interior lights, and the stereo for its memory?
Anyone know which relay controls the sidelights?
Could it be a bad earth?
I'm stumped for now. Any help or suggestions welcomed!
A little late to the party here, but just to say my gearknob revolved and then disintegrated too. I replaced it with a golf ball - drill a 10mm hole about 2/3 of the way through and just ram it on. Works a treat and feels good in the hand. Ahem...
Hi all
I thought I might share a recent experience with you, and my hubris!
Last Wednesday, a wet morning, I hop in Fifi (X reg Scudo 1.9D) to go to work. The windscreen is wet with condensation on the inside, not unusual.
Engine fires up just fine, lights on, but no heater fan. Bugger. Reach for the handbook to find which fuse to check, and find three entries for 'passenger compartment fan'.
I pull fuse 5, check it, and reinstall. The fan roars into life. Ok, maybe a poor contact, off we go then, no problem.
Thursday morning, no fan. But this time it's really dead, no amount of fuse pulling can fix it. That evening I come on the forum and find several threads about fan problems, seems like a common issue.
Friday. I service Fifi, then pull the plug off the fan and test for voltage (with engine running). Nothing. So I suspect a switch problem. Pull the dash apart, remove the board with the sliders, clean the contacts, test. Nothing. Luckily I have my old dead Dispatch on hand, so I pull the dash unit out of it, and the fan just in case. Clean contacts, install, test. Nothing. Try the other fan. Nothing. I run out of time and reassemble everything, scratching my head in puzzlement.
Saturday morning. Van fires up fine and behaves normally for two short journeys, without a fan. But in the afternoon she won't start, the battery is flat. What the hell?
Pop in another battery and off she goes. This time I test voltage across the battery and get 12.5 V. Fire up the engine, test voltage again, still 12.5 V. Ooooh. Not charging.
Right, so the alternator has packed up. But why no idiot light on the dash? Surely that's what it's for?
Dispatch to the rescue again. Pull the alternator, fit it to Fifi, test voltage across battery while running and it's all good at 14 V. And, of course, the fan is working perfectly.
So I button everything up to drive home - and then I see it: Ignition on - oil pressure light on, handbrake light on, STOP light on... but NO CHARGE LIGHT!!
Bloody bulb had gone! Gah. Must have been like that for ages - and I never noticed it. No warning of a failing alternator. What's more, I replaced all the bulbs in the dash just a few months ago because so many were dead. Dammit!
Also, thinking about it now, she must have been cranking slower and slower as the battery drained - and I didn't notice that either, till it was too late. Lucky I didn't do any night journeys or I'd have been stranded.
All leaves me feeling a little stupid to be honest, but no harm done (and no expense incurred, thanks to having a parts van).
On another note - has anyone else had their clock get stuck in adjust mode, with the hands whizzing round and round and no way to stop it?
Drove me nuts for few weeks, until I dismantled the binnacle and snipped off the pins supplying power to the clock. Now it is permanently 11:59...
I've been in that binnacle so many times!!
My two penneth on the speedo...
I also had one that did not work. It was the speedo clock itself that was bust, the needle would quiver but not move. If your mileage is still clocking up then it's getting a signal ok. If not then your 92k is suspect!
I was able to mix and match parts between two binnacles (got one from a 106 iirc) and make one complete working unit while keeping the correct mileage display. They come apart pretty easy if you're gentle and patient. Changed all the bulbs too while I was in there!
Also bought a GPS speedo for £20 but didn't need it in the end.
Great news, glad it's sorted!
Yes, I have also wondered about this.
I think it's too late to ask for it to be replaced now. But they'll remember me, and know I'll be back if anything crops up in the next year or two. They also know I know several other customers of theirs.
I did about 70 miles with it over tight, which is not too bad. I'm resigned to not letting it get to a high mileage, if the rest of the van justifies it in another 25 or 30 thousand miles I'll replace it again, as I'm more concerned with wear to the water pump and tensioner bearings than the belt itself being damaged.
I will be keeping a close ear on that area.
That said, she runs really beautifully now, happier than ever, so maybe a pre-stretch is good? Like a guitar string!
And yes I'll stop being lazy and do the work myself. Cheaper, usually quicker, sometimes better. Wetter. Colder.
Brakes next, in the spring. Joy.
I tried to take a pic of the flywheel sensor for you, but can't see it without taking loads of stuff off.
Look here: https://www.406oc.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=16467
It's number 5.
A couple of thoughts from what I remember of this.
First, if the injector sensor is unplugged, it will knock and make white smoke. So if it makes no difference if it's connected or not, that's a flag. Connections all through the loom, into the box in the wing? Clean and check earth points.
Second, establish it's not egr/air filter related by running with both pipes disconnected at the egr valve. If it still knocks, not the problem.
Also, check the flywheel sensor (crank position) down on the bellhousing. I once had one smashed off by a ball bearing (from the thrust bearing) and it knocked like hell. Cheap part though.
Hope this helps.
Evening all.
I was back at the garage at 9 this morning. Luckily caught the the two guys I wanted at once. It was pretty clear how bad it sounded, so no arguments. I also ran through a list of other complaints (they really need someone who can use a pen and a telephone!) and they listened.
Actually the mechanic looked mortified. They were very good. Gave me a lift home, and got on it straight away.
Fifi is home now and sounds normal. Absolutely no whine at all. Free MOT and oil change when due.
Said they had used a digital meter to set the tension to spec, which was of course way out when they checked. Hmm.
They have returned the meter. They didn't say (and I didn't ask) how many times they'd used it before I came along. I told them to rely on their ears more, like proper engineers!
Where are we when the customer tells the mechanic what sounds right?
All good now anyway. I should never have doubted my instinct, but we've all learned something!
My previous 1.9D used to occasionally knock badly, mainly when accelerating hard. Just for a moment, then be fine again.
It got gradually more frequent. Eventually I discovered, by accident, that grabbing the wiring loom along the front of the engine and giving it a shake would stop it for a few weeks.
I traced in the end to a bad connection from the lift sensor in number 4 injector - gearbox end. Wire runs from the injector and plugs into the loom down by the fuel filter somewhere. Cleaned plug and socket, fixed!
Evening all. Bit of an update for those that may be interested.
Today I took Fifi 20 miles to another garage to get a second opinion.
I did not tell the mechanic what to expect, I just said 'listen' and started the engine.
"Ooh, that cambelt is waaay too tight!!"
Thank you.
So tomorrow, now that my rage has subsided somewhat, I will go back to my local garage and explain my position.
I either want it re-tensioned properly or the cost of the kit and labour returned.
After all, the old belt still had 15 thousand before the due interval. I wanted peace of mind, not the lifespan of my engine shortened!
However this pans out, I can see myself doing it again within 20 thousand miles, just to be sure. What a waste of money and time.
I may also mention that when I went to collect it yesterday my van - my work van, with most of my tools inside, hundreds of pounds worth - was parked in the road outside, unlocked with the keys in and window open in the rain. Greasy hand prints all over the white paint. Mechanic out on a test drive. No one in the workshop. Really?!
Thanks for your advice and support on here. I'm glad I found you. I hope I can be of use to others too as I have plenty of experience in this field!
Hi Kenbw2
I know the scraping noise, yep. On the Briefcase it was 'That's a new noise, its running, do I turn it off now or drive it home?'. I drove it home, 5 miles. The tensioner bearing had collapsed and seized and I could see the cover moving in and out. I believe that cambelt set had only 30 thousand on it. Hence my concern tonight.
You're right about going back. I'll have another think, listen, and look in the morning.
Thanks Casper that is good information.
In my experience, I change belts and bearings to make things quieter/smoother. This appears to be the opposite. I may of course be wrong and its fine.
Ooh! You're not kidding!
You're right, I should do that in the morning, get a glimpse of the water pump just to be sure. Also check the coolant colour and level.
Thing is, I'm confident he has done what he was meant to. Overdone it if anything! He's surely been in there, I can see the nuts and bolts have been off, I can just see the belt and it's bright markings through a missing bit of cover. And it has a new top engine mount, which is fair enough in my book at 20 years.
But its awkward isn't it, taking it back? Granny, eggs, and so on.
I think I hoped a couple of you would say no, it's fine, it'll settle down... but Scotchjoe has confirmed my gut feeling.
,
Taking a 14 year plus old vehicle to a garage will probably end up with it being used as training aid for an apprentice.
Succinctly put and sadly true. I feel a little foolish about this tbh. I should know better by now.
I'm new here, so hello everyone.
I have an X reg Scudo 1.9 non turbo. She's in pretty good nick for her age. I'm only her third owner, I know she's been called Fifi from new, and been well loved. I bought her last April after the sad demise of my Briefcase, a 2002 Dispatch 1.9D, due to rot and gearbox issues (again).
I've always done my own mechanics, but decided to have the cambelt and glow plugs done by my local garage this winter - what a treat!
However - after collecting Fifi today I notice she makes an uncomfortably loud whining noise from the cambelt. At some rpm's, I guess around 2500, it's really bad, almost crunchy.
I've had DW8 and XUD engines (3 x 405's) for many years. I did the Briefcase's cambelt myself 3 years ago. None them ever sounded like this, or even whined at all.
So.. any advice or input much appreciated, before I take it back tomorrow (which I am dreading) to say "Listen to this" and "I'm not happy". It just sounds wrong! I think it's too tight. Anyone?
Cheers.
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