Posts by solvemon

solvemon · Maintenance

Allright, update time!

So I went with the advice and started on the process of getting to the clutch.

Mostly, i followed the guide here: here and here. It seemed pretty straight forward, until the removal of the passenger-side drive shaft, which would absolutely not release from its bearing, even after several days of heavy persuation. In the end, I loosened the whole engine mount containing the bearing and off-side drive shaft. This allowed me enough room to get the GB out of way and access the clutch and throw-out bearing.

Just turning the bearing by hand, there is no doubt its bust. It is grindy and uneven.

Now to the next problem: It's stuck into the pressure plate, and I can't seem to get it to release. There seems to be some models of "pull-type-bearings" that come off quite easily, like this, but there doesn't seem to be any similar way to release mine from the pressure plate.

I'm really hoping I'm missing something, and there is some smart trick to this, any ideas?

Pics

solvemon · Maintenance

Hey guys

So about a week ago a weird, "scrapy" kinda noise started coming from what I believe is the clutch or gear box. The scraping sound changes when I engage the clutch, is present in all gears (including neutral) and pitches up to a sort of "whining" noise when the revs go up. Hard to explain in words, so I made a little video:

I was thinking maybe it could be the throw-out bearing? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

EDIT: SOLVED

The problem was the throw-out bearing, it was completely worn down and needed replacement.
Re.: the other problem, getting it loose from the pressure-plate: I had to take of the pressure plate, and pry out a ring clip from the back to release the bearing.

solvemon · Maintenance

Thanks a lot for the the replies guys, in that case I should be good! When I get around to the other small issues I have I'll take it back in and report back!

solvemon · Maintenance

So in my MOT (or the equivalent here in Norway) my 2005 Scudo JTD 2.0 got a few remarks, among them: stuck load proportioning valve. After getting it up on my ramps, and giving it a good splash of WD-40, and banging it with the hammer for a while, I can actually move it by wedging a screw-driver into the "arm" and levering it open. It feels quite smooth in that the motion is not jerky or stuck in any way, but I have to put a fair amount of power to counter the spring.

To be honest, I don't know a lot about this part, so I'm not even sure what it's supposed to look like "at rest", when the brakes are not pressed? Because mine is in the complete "home" or closed position. This is also the case when I jacked the van up off the back wheels. Is this to be expected? Furthermore, when I had a helper press the brakes for me (with the engine running), I can see the arm moving but veeeeeery little, maybe 2-3 mm at the most. Is this as expected, or could something else be preventing the arm from opening?

Some pictures for your ocular pleasure

Thanks in advance guys!

solvemon · General Discussion

So yesterday I refitted the new wheel and belt, and all in all, not a very hard job!

I smeared a few drops of engine oil on the inside of the new wheel, and it slipped on quite easily. In order to get it to engage onto its little notch, I put a large pipe over the center of the wheel (about 24mm) and tapped it with a mallet until home.

To get the belt on, I followed the diagram in the video.

The only hard part was tightening the eccentric pulley; First off, there is a sort of runoff metal pipe coming down from the Webasto heater that was directly in front of the wheel, so I had to fiddle my allen-key in behind this. I loosened the center bolt as explained, and then fitted a quarter inch driver into the slot to move it. What I didn't realize was that I would be tightening the center bolt as I pulled the wheel around, and I actually ended up putting too much force on it, breaking my tool. Fortunately, I had still managed to move the wheel quite a bit, and pick up most of the slack. It had not tightened the belt enough for me to pull the nail out of the tensioner hole unfortunately, so that had to be pressed down again, same procedure as when removing the belt. Once the tensioner re-engaged, the belt seemed very nice and tight, and the engine is now purring like a cat again! big_smile

solvemon · General Discussion

Thanks for your reply Steve!

So far, I've removed the belt and the wheel.

It wasn't very problematic at all, I first pressed "back" the tensioner wheel, and pinned it into place with a nail in the small lock holes. With the tensioner pushed back, i could remove the belt. Once the belt was off, I put the van into 5th, and used a cheater pipe with a 22mm pipe (I think). A few good pulls and it came right off.

You are totally correct in that there is a big difference in the parts available, that are supposedly compatible. The cheaper ones seem to be missing the damper part completely, which I imagine would likely hurt the crankshaft in the long run?

I ordered one of the more expensive ones (~ price about the same as you suggested), and a new belt. Awaiting parts, will update as I get them and try to refit.

For future reference, I more or less followed this video from a Peugeot 406 HDI engine. It was very similar, with the exception of the ECU positioning. In my case I could fit a spanner on the tensioner from below, and push on it with a pipe from above (sort of in between the piping coming out from the Webasto heater), while a helper locked the tensioner in place.

Its nice to know the engine from a whole range of other cars seem to be quite similar:

Youtube wrote:

This car is a 2002 Peugeot 406 its engine is a 2.0 HDi 110 DW10ATED, also found in a number of other PSA cars including Peugeot 206,306,307,607,806,807 and Citroen xsara, xantia, C5, and C8, as well as vans including the berlingo and partner, possibly also the relay and expert.

solvemon · General Discussion

Hello all!

I have a 2005 Scudo 2.0 JTD, and lately I've been hearing a slight squeaking noise whenever I start the engine, that lasts for about 1 or 2 minutes. The last couple of days it got a lot worse, and there is a rattling noise that seemed to come from the area of the serpentine belt. Today this rattling noise got really bad (embarrassing to drive home from work...), and I started smelling burnt rubber.

When I got home I had a look under the hood and noticed something sticking out from the crankshaft pulley that was wobbling around like crazy. After a couple of hours of cooldown I had a look again, this time through the wheel-bay (lifting up the plastic cover), and noticed something strange. I managed to take a picture:

From what I understand, in between the inner and outer wheel there is supposed to be a sort of rubber damper to soak up vibrations. The wobbly part you see there seems to be some sort of sheeting, but its quite soft and I can rotate it around freely. I touched the gooey stuff, and it feels like very thick tar, or more likely, melted rubber. I'm guessing this would be the remains of the harmonic damper?

Does anyone have any experience with a similar problem? Any suggestions on what could have caused this to happen? The van has done about 170k km.

Anyone have any experience and/or instructions on how to change this pulley wheel, or if its even worth trying this myself?

Thanks

solvemon · General Discussion

Thanks for the feedback guys! I will definitively try the product you mentioned.

There was a good point about the two leads in the ISO-harness being switched around, and since I already have swapped the two (I seem to remember it was yellow and red?) I guess I will have to reverse them again.

I will report back in a few weeks when I have the part and tried installing it!

Casper wrote:

... your steering wheel is on the wrong side. ...

Dammit, I knew there was something fishy about the van when I bought it tongue

solvemon · General Discussion

Hi guys, new to the forums here (and so happy I found you smile ).

I was wondering if anyone has successfully connected your steering wheel remote to an aftermarket head unit?

I have a 2005 2.0 JTD Scudo, and here are some pictures of my steering wheel and adapter

I was looking through the existing Connects2 adapters (http://www.connects2.com/products/steer … hicle/Fiat) however nothing would match my van.

Anyone else had any luck with this?

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#1 Re: Maintenance » SOLVED: 2005 Scudo 2.0 JTD (RHX) - Weird noise from clutch or trans. » 2020-05-24 10:47:47

#2 Maintenance » SOLVED: 2005 Scudo 2.0 JTD (RHX) - Weird noise from clutch or trans. » 2020-04-28 20:25:36

#3 Re: Maintenance » Rear Load Proportioning Valve stuck... or is it??? » 2019-05-13 05:49:46

#4 Maintenance » Rear Load Proportioning Valve stuck... or is it??? » 2019-05-11 08:57:03

#5 Re: General Discussion » [SOLVED] Melted crankshaft pulley damper » 2018-05-31 06:12:36

#6 Re: General Discussion » [SOLVED] Melted crankshaft pulley damper » 2018-05-28 17:57:43

#7 General Discussion » [SOLVED] Melted crankshaft pulley damper » 2018-05-24 19:26:18

#8 Re: General Discussion » Steering wheel stalk adapter » 2016-05-14 09:15:25

#9 General Discussion » Steering wheel stalk adapter » 2016-05-13 17:52:17

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