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Interesting reading. Makes me shudder how complicated these have become.
Made no progress with the sliding door lock (see other thread)
So in the end, I did get it back on all four wheels, but time constraints meant that I couldn't finish it. It would have been better if I changed the driveshaft and done the belts, but I couldn't be 100% sure the right parts would turn up in timely fashion. My previous attempt at getting 2 day delivery of the 3mm x 1m lengths (50 pieces) of galvanised wire to do the door lock control rod, ran to about 3 weeks (thanks Hermes/Evri)
I sorted out some insurance and driven it less than a mile to a local garage that does MOTs. After chatting to them for a short while, asking if they knew the local landmark, it turns out they did and remember my dad being a customer. Now they are busy until the end of the month / start of next, but I agreed for them to do some work when it suits them provided I could leave it with them last Thursday. They will take a poke first and report back, but they've at least got the timing belt/water pump, driveshaft and sliding door to do.
I would normally do this stuff myself and can count on the fingers of one hand the times I've taken a car to the garage to be fixed. The logistics though are against me on this one.
I'm trying to figure out mechanically how these work. I know what they are meant to do.
My nearside sliding door on my Synergie has always played up. The previous owner shortened the rod that goes from the middle mechanism and cable tied it to the clip hole arrowed.

Before I left the vehicle, I took the corresponding rod from the nearside and bent a new one up.

When I had the lock catches at the rear of the doors off, I tied string to them so I could open the doors from the inside when I came back to it. What I noticed when opening the doors with the string, was the offside was relatively easy and when I replaced the original pull rod it behaved correctly and opened from the inside and out. However the problematic nearside was refusing to open until I gave it some extra pull. This was confirmed when the new cloned pull rod was fitted. I'd misplaced those little black plastic clips I bought ages ago, but even if they were fitted, it would appear that the rod was "too long" and required pulling further than mechanically provided for in the mechanism.
This leads me to figure that a previous owner's bodge in shortening the rod (which gave it a 50/50 chance of opening) was to compensate for this rear lock "defect".
Unfortunately I didn't have time to do further investigation, but I'm wondering if the deadlock solenoid is set on this door and whilst it can be opened by removing the door card and pull rod then manually "overpulling", whether or not if powering the deadlock solenoid open will restore the original shorter stroke required or if I should just throw another complete lock assembly at it?
Found the wishbone bolts. Less of a struggle to fit the wishbone this time, I did give the offending bush housing a tickle with Mr Angry grinder.
Then had a bit of a carry-on with getting the ARB drop links, then the ARB bush... I can't be bothered with the nearside arm as that is different to the driver's side and looks the same as the new one. (The one I took off the had 3 extra speed holes)
Discs are rust, but were fresh on last visit.
The headache was the careless moving of it, which popped the tripod joint and once one of two of the needles make a bid for freedom it's game over. I'm going to reband the gaiter as I've some with me that might fit. I also managed to get the nearside steering rack gaiter finished thanks to my new proper Knipex pliers I got after not being able to get them in time last trip.
Collected the wheels this morning now booted with Cross climates. I'm not a big fan of Michelins, but I'll give them another go. I prefer Vredestein Quatracs, but they can be hard to come by unless mail order.
It's been years since I've done an XUD cambelt, but they're dead easy from memory. I might still farm the job out. See how I feel in a couple of hours.
No, it wasn't a static collapse. It was nearer the gate as per avatar and yer one decided to stick the wheels vaguely on and moved it 6 ft from where it was. So consider it motion damage.
It looks better in the photos.
I've got to take out the shite quality used spares, out of the back too as I reckon my chances of passing the test are much improved without the rear seating.
Cheers, I'm battling wishbones at the minute or else I'd be ringing around.
Finally got here this morning to find it off it's axle stands.

Both stands under the vehicle, but one bent. Hammered it back into shape.

Propped it up again at the front and jacked the towbar. Wheels dropped off at the tyre place for a new set of four. 2013 tyres no good to me.
Hunting for wishbone bolts and trying to figure it all out. It's been two years since I was last here...
I know someone that might take it on. I'll have to talk to him about insurance. What's the insurance like on WAVs?
Fuel isn't a issue compared to filling a L322 Range Rover V8 
Having a play with the online version: https://citroen-documentation-modern-ba … thub.io/#/
Found a bug in the front end already and filed it: Translation of recent documents.
There's a load of data files, but only Citroen ones. I presume I could extract some Peugeot ones as I might have a long lost copy somewhere and I have a 106 & 306.
It would seem that the front end works well enough and isn't laggy and there's not much to download if the interest is in one or two particular models. Useful also to call up maintenance procedures where available too. Not sure how long it will last given half of that has always been on the paid access.
A lot of catalogues work in a similar fashion. I've got a Jaguar EPC which someone wrote a front end for easy offline use. I'm running a Linux desktop here and it's a PITA to fire up Oracle VirtualBox / Windows XP/7 whatever to run some old software to view some exploded diagrams.
The other day (20th September 2026) on Reddit, user AkdM_ posted this to the r/Citroen sub.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Citroen/commen … mentation/
A few years ago Citroën dealers used an internal app called Service Box for every repair, which contained methods, parts catalogue with exploded views, labour times, technical bulletins. An offline copy of it ("DocBackup") shipped as a Windows install with a Tomcat server and an embedded Firebird database. Mine kept crashing, and nothing else reads that data, so I rebuilt it as plain files, available online for all. Nothing to install!
What's in it:
48 models, from AX, BX and XM to C3 C6, DS5 and Jumper III
about 124k+ documents: repair methods with tightening torques and step-by-step procedures, parts catalogue with hotspot images, labour times, incident notes
108k+ illustrations
French, English, German, Spanish and Italian, switchable on any document
full-text search per vehicle, filtering by engine and body variant, like the original
How it works:
The original app stored documents as XML with codes, and 24 language dictionaries. I export both from the database and render in the browser, so one copy of each document serves every language.
Images were Blowfish-encrypted LZMA files (.7en); the key was recoverable from the install. They are re-encoded to AVIF: 4.5 GB down to 1.6 GB.
Everything is static: no server, no database, no cookies. One GitHub Pages site for the viewer and one repository per vehicle for its data, to stay under the per-repo limits. About 6 GB in total.
Anyone can see the analytics here. No personal data included, only anonymous metrics like page views, referrer links and basic browser stats. This is just a simple way for me to see if the project is interesting to people and worth keeping up.
Anyone can clone a vehicle's repository and have the whole thing offline.
The build pipeline itself (database export, image decryption, renderers, publishing) isn't published yet. It needs some cleanup first. I may release it later if there's interest.
Site: https://citroen-documentation-modern-backup.github.io/
Repositories: https://github.com/orgs/Citroen-Documen … positoriesHappy to answer questions about the reverse engineering or the pipeline. If you have the same kind of dying dealer software for another brand, the approach transfers.
Note: this was all vibe coded with Claude Code (Fable 5.1 ftw). I'm a software engineer, so I knew where I needed to go and made the stack and architecture decisions myself (static hosting, one repo per vehicle, rendering the XML client-side with dictionaries). The AI wrote the code and did the grunt work of the reverse engineering. Happy to answer anything about that too.
Might be useful for easier working of the database offline. I'll have a play with it and see how to install and work it.
Well there's been a slight delay in departure to the NW of England. Provisional plan was getting there for yesterday (Monday) as the weather was meant to be nice. Having had yet another look at the weather charts, it seems like it will maybe hold dry until Friday.
I suppose if I get there Wednesday...
Unfortunately there's no 2,500L personal allowance of bio fuel in RoI. So no veg oil for me
If I can get over the MOT hurdle, then it may well spend a few months up in Glasgow. It's 30th (built) birthday was a couple of days ago and it was first registered 22nd October 1996. So despite the EURO 2 engine, it can smoke around Glasgow, Edinburgh, Aberdeen and Dundee's LEZ zones as a historic vehicle. In Scotland, a HV only needs to be 30 years old.
Now the reason I never imported it to Ireland was taxes. When I first got it, I thought it'd do the temporary job in hand and be sold on. At that point there was only a Vehicle Registration Tax (VRT) based on top CO2 band of 37%. This VRT isn't applied to what you paid for it, but on the Open Market Selling Price (OMSP) which is a pie-in-the-sky figure dreamt up by Irish Revenue and the Society of the Irish Motor Industry (SIMI), so you can guess who it favours. The minimum OMSP is €2000, so that's €740 just to get it registered. Add to that another €720 annual Motor Tax for a 1900-1999cc engine and it rapidly becomes uneconomic.
Then on top of all that in the name of air quality came the NOx charge. Introduced in January 2020, it put paid to any notions importing a dirty diesel. A Euro 2 diesel is going to get hit with the maximum charge of €4850!!
If all that didn't put you off, then import duty (10%) and VAT (23%) were further costs to consider when the Transition Agreement ended 31st December 2020
Since then though, conditions have improved, a lot of it just with the passage of time. Reaching 30 years old removed the CO2, NOx element of the problem, because it reclassifies it as a Vintage/Veteran vehicle. The VRT is still charged, but at a flat-rate of €200 regardless of engine size or notional value. The annual Motor Tax bill shrinks to €56.
I'll check with the insurance underwriting gods first, but unlike the olden days, just being a certain age doesn't get classic car policy. This could be tricky as motor insurance generally isn't particularly cheap here.
Anyway, back to looking at the weather forecast and ferry timetables.
For Mk1 Synergie.
This style.

Original set the vehicle was delivered with when new has gone astray at some point. Vehicle current sitting on Alfa wheels so not in a particular rush. Any offers, pointers, comments welcome.
Hi,
I was last logged in just over a year ago...and haven't done anything to my '96 Synergie in over two. Unfortunately, life got in the way.
To recap. I live in Ireland and I bought the Synergie from a guy in Bristol back in October 2019. I drove it without issue from there to Carlisle where it currently is. It's a 1.9TD VSX that I think may have belonged to Citroen UK given the old plates and the current registration being marked as non-transferable. The purpose at the time was to buy a vehicle that I could clear out my father's old house. This fitted the bill perfectly as I could get it into the local tip without hassle as it was a van that wasn't a van. It also had a towbar with full electrics (12N+12S) and I borrowed a car trailer to move my two Reliants over that month.
Winter came and I put it on SORN at the very end of November 2019. The intention was to do one final run to Ireland and get my last of the stuff out of the house. Well you know what happened after that, yes the MOT ran out 4th March 2020 and the Covid put everything on hold.
Fast forward to now and it's still at the house in Carlisle, which was sold a couple of years ago. The fresh plan is to get it MOT'd and moving again and keep it. I know it's costing me well more than it's worth on paper, but it's an incredibly useful vehicle, and you know, man maths.
I'm going over the start of next week to try and pick up where I left off. The front suspension arms need changing. The offside is removed and I got this far:
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … hp?id=1997
I'm going back with the same arms and an angle grinder to relieve the side of the bush housing to clear the subframe. I'll make them fit even if it kills me!
After that, I've a pair of inner tie rods to replace along with the steering rack boots which are perished.
The rear nearside brake used to stick if left for a few days. I shall look over the brakes.
I'll change the cambelt. It was unknown when it was last done. It has about 140k miles on the clock and it's been sat long enough.
I need to sort the wire rod between the nearside door handle and lock. The long one as the door is not opening or closing properly and someone before me had modified it by shortening / bending / cable tie.
I'll be visting here daily with updates/questions/answers.
Wish me luck.
Interesting pictures. Does the electric to the lock get fed through a spring-loaded contact? (I'm not familiar with the 'new' ones.)
A quick search shows the weapon of choice to be a cranked ring spanner

You can get them for around a tenner
ICO1Z looks like it is on the bulkhead/firewall?
https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspect … tion-4-3-1
Additional stop lamps, over and above the mandatory requirements, must be tested. However, if you are not sure if they are connected, you should give the benefit of the doubt.
If it works then 3 out of the 5 bulbs need to illuminate. (Well my Synergie has 5 up there).
2 out of 5 illuminating would fail.
0 out of 5 should be given benefit of doubt as to whether it's actually wired up or not.
With regards to number plate lights, they don't all need to work to pass.
https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspect … tion-4-7-1
1 working out of 2 or more would just be a Minor fault (advisory in old lingo). Had this on a Jaaag where someone had removed the wiring and holder for the offside bulb. Only found out when I removed the lens to replace the bulb.
0 out of 2 is a Major as is 0 out of 1.
The manual should really just say you need one working lamp.
Your local stealer should have been able to look up your reg and get the VIN from that and checked the build sheet for your van to find out the specs of the wheels fitted and referenced the part numbers.
I made an educated guess from fewer details, but not having full access to the catalogue couldn't conclusively state it.
Good to know. What alteration(s) were required?
I'd wait until next week when you can see what you have in your hand.
Other than that, it's all speculation (and I'm speculating ET42)
The past few years I've been eyeballing the Budget, older vehicles haven't been subject to anything other than. RPI inflation rate increases (rounded up to the nearest fiver).
Usually that was a fiver or a tenner increase a year until there was a 10% inflation blip.
I've probably got a few old V149 tax tables on the computer saved for reference.
You could get that part alone and fix it.
Had to do the same with a couple of BMW motorcycle starters as the plastic doesn't like the kick back of a large twin pot engine.
Good to see you're having some luck with this.
https://www.hollinapplications.com/auto … dbrake-kit
Would be the general idea. Not cheap, but then anything with a "mobility aid" utility tends to be expensive.
My late father has a 2007 Mercedes Sprinter which he bought because it had a wheel chair lift at the back.
It may have been a Gleneagles thing. What I do remember was it had an electric handbrake on a switch modification. The handbrake utilised a (rather expensive) linear actuator to pull the cable on and off and there was a rocker switch on the dashboard to operate it.