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my notes say its 1030 'engine running signal relay'
and your missing one is for front fog lamps
what manual?
Hmm I'd want to know what the modded wiring was for too
split charge relay mebbe?
CD's? Who uses CD's nowadays?
I gave away the Stock Clarion/PU stereo and bought a SH Sony Xplod for £25
it was in mint condition and it's face off type with USB, BT, Aux in etc
You could put your whole CD collection a USB stick and play it from there
and it will handle your calls too or play media directly from your phone
If you really want go cheap ( who doesnt?) there are some half decent chinese ones for £30 ish
that do all the above but some have bloody annoying fake graphic equaliser displays that I'd avoid.
For example this one has DAB as well as BT USB etc for £27!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186533281114?
Ah sod it, thinking about it, its probably got 18 years of crap build up in there which may or may not be shiftable
and I don't want to be doing it again in December/January
so for £33.60 I may as well just stick a new core in and have just ordered one.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Here's a pic of the area I took a while back with the bottom panel and the dash off
I currently have just the bottom curved panel off
It looks like as it is, the core would foul on the fuse board where the blue and green relays are.
This may be easily removable for all I know, I'll have to look closer if the next flush doesn't work
I can see that bendy support strap in front of the shiny heater pipes will have to be removed,
that's easy enough.
If I have to swap the core I'm hoping I can move the fuse board out of the way
without too much faffery

My view of the diagram I have suggests it's powered via the fuse and inertia (impact) relay at switch on and
the solenoids actuated by the ECU pulling the line to ground on the relay coil
The inertia switch looks like simple on/off device which is normally closed unless an impact opens it thereby
cutting off power so there should be continuity between pins 3 and 1 normally
Its on the lowside of the pump relay and if open will interrupt the connection to the ECU and prevent it
operating the relay/pump
Where is the relay situated, can you get a meter in there to see if there is any power going out to the pump?
If my info is correct, power to the pump goes out of the relay on
pin 4, cable 121 ( blue) and goes into the pump on pin 3 cable 1235 ( blue)
presumably it changes number at a connector midway.
A while back I had a go at flushing the heater core
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … 907#p13907
This worked for a while but I've hardly used the heater since
Now the nights are drawing in and temp are falling, I'm getting the usual hot pipe in and cold pipe out symptoms again.
I did open the bleeders and got some air out but this hasn't improved things
I'll have another go at flushing it first but may have to get another core
Snag is, I see the fuse board looks like it will prevent removal
so I'll either have to move the fuse board or the whole heater to remove the core
Anyone done this or got any cunning wheezes to do this job?
Winter is coming so better get this sorted soon.
had a look at some diagrams and see the fuel pump is powered from Fuse F7 in BF01
my notes say BF01 is the "fuse box under bonnet"
so that's worth checking
RegW wrote:Casper wrote:Who's the new guy
Dunno mate, they'll let anybody in here nowadays
I've noticed the place has really gone downhill since I joined.....Special Brew is never a good look
Cant afford the Buckie
Anyone with an old bike especially will have seen plenty of oxidised electrical connectors
Some I know folk insist on using dielectric grease to keep the weather out
but Vaseline or grease is just as good
you just need something non conductive or reactive to act as a water/oxygen barrier
Who's the new guy
Dunno mate, they'll let anybody in here nowadays
I've noticed the place has really gone downhill since I joined.....
The weather getting into connectors must always be a consideration on old bangers like ours
As well as Tirees suggestion I'd add opening checking cleaning the 3 ECU connectors too
A guy recently had a no start fault which eventually led him to this.
I'm going to check/clean mine soon and squish some switch cleaner in there.
The Expert OEM numbers above are from the actual part I bought.
Dunno what's on the belt, it was fitted a while back and all can I say it works.
I did look at the label on the ECU and that was blank so no help there
I think I'm correct in saying the 16V's have a second cam shaft driven by a chain from
the one driven by the cam belt so may well be a common size.
One thing that does piss me off about these vans is no easy access to info
No Haynes manuals or workshop service manuals that I can find and as they're largely regarded as obsolete and abandoned now, probably little chance of finding any.
I did buy and download what was offered as a 'covers everything' manual one which was a rip off really
and is a pita to use as it runs XP of all things in virtual machine.
Even when it is up and running it's not totally useless but clunky and more parts than procedure oriented
The wiring diagrams use Citroen or PSA conventions which can take a while to extract useful info out of.
I'm no stranger to all sorts of wiring diagrams and schematics but they're not fun to use as I had to keep cross
referencing stuff to build my own files out of them and convert compressed svgs to jpgs and such
Did I say not fun? they're a PITA
I bought the Gates belt and Tensioner kit from Ebay and the water pump separately
just been looking through my purchase history ( Jeez, I dont half buy a load of crap!)
I see the Gates TBkit for my expert has the same OEM numbers as the Scudo
which isnt really surprising as they're fundamentally the same vans
Scudo
Reference OE/OEM Number
0831.N5, 0831.V3, 0831V3, 0831.N4
Expert
Reference OE/OEM Number
0831.N5, 0831.V3, 0831V3, 0831.N4
link to Scudo kit
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305305365089?
Yep it's the 16v 2.0 jtd/hdi
Fiat service centre near me wanted outrageous money for a timing belt kit but I found a good supplier online.
I'm told mine is a 16v too
Apparently the 2.0's come in 8v and 16v but I have no idea how to tell the difference
It does say RHZ in the VIN which might have some significance
I got the Gates timing belt and water pump kit fitted shortly after buying mine in April
and gave it an oil and filter change too
I'm pretty pleased with it so far, it goes well and gives just over 50 mpg on a run
On a whim I decide to fit a reverse sensor kit
so didn't I bump into stuff so much when backing up.

Removing the bumper was pretty easy
4 13mm nuts behind the blanking plates and 2 10mm headed bolts inside the
lower body are all that holds it on.
these bolts are easy to get at on the drivers side but on the near side a 1/4" drive socket was used but a 10mm ratchet spanner would have shifted them quicker unless you have small hands.
I established the sensor positions with a rule and painters tape and drilled the holes for the sensors plus corresponding ones in the back for the cables.
I secured them with a combination of hot glue and cable ties and insulting tape where they were bundled to run into the body via the vent thingy and refitted the bumper and fed the harness up inside.
Incidentally I sprayed grease on all the threads so any future work will go easier.




OK, that was the grovelling about underneath done with.
I did a quick and dirty connect up to check the thing actually worked before continuing
I then took a permanent feed from the reverse light cable ( purple) and ground (green/Yellow) near the lamp assembly
I ran the cable from the display up the near side pillar and through the top channel
but found it was about 500mm too short so cut and shut it and this seemed to work initially but after moving it about it worked erratically
I'd done it in a bit of rush as it was starting get dark last night
so today got the solder station and stuff out to do it better and tested it for continuity and shorts before potting it up

It now works and the box is stowed in the rear corner and will get a protective cover later so I dont damage it when throwing crap in the van.
Knowing me I'll probably still thump a few things with the van.


I bought myself one of those folding ramps for when I want to stuff a bike in mine
I got the loan of one a while back to get a mates scooter in for the MOT and it made it very easy
Wingnut looks like he's got a classic wee Vespa
1960's? 150??
Another WAV! same colour too, what engine?
Wish my van was blue, mine looks like a mobile freezer
but as long as it does the job I spose.
Edit: Just seen your other post, you have the 2.0 HDI
that chart doesn't have a van option, according to that I have a cabriolet!
and the site is useless unless you're registered which I cba to do
I think you have the DW8? but expect others will tell you for sure
I'm still confused over what I have in mine exactly
I know its a DW(something) and 2.0 and has turbo and intercooler cos I can see that
but the seller kept going on about it having 16v and I dont know if it has or not.
I dont care that much, its an old banger and I'd like a few years of reliability and economy
out of it without anything serious/expensive happening. 
I'm not new to vans but fairly new to these and leaky doors seems to be an issue with some
I sealed up my RH side door and glad I did as it's given me more useful stowage space inside
so rain ingress and wind noise isn't an issue.
I have had a few drips on the near side door though and had to tinker with the sliders and mounts
RegW wrote:I'm a bit surprised it's a 1.9D ( not even a turbo?) for that year
it seems a bit retrograde as I assumed they'd all have the 2.0 engine by 2006
or at least a turbo.Clearly nothing but the best for me
A normally aspirated 1.9 while not as nippy will have the advantage of simplicity
so fewer things to go wrong which is not a bad thing in old bangers like ours.
I had a Citroen C15 van for while, I would sometimes wish it was a bit quicker but it was a good solid plodder
I couldn't fault for reliability
I'm a bit surprised it's a 1.9D ( not even a turbo?) for that year
it seems a bit retrograde as I assumed they'd all have the 2.0 engine by 2006
or at least a turbo.