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What are these somewhat triangular plate things in the corners for?
I'm tempted to try and pry them up but thought I'd check first

Having the 2.0 HDI lump too I'd be interested to know just in case.
As for the cause not sure, but had the larger intercooler pipe come off on my galaxy a couple of times
and that was very loud and sounded a bit like a bad exhaust leak with the typical loss of power
but fortunately on the Galaxy it was easy enough to access and rectify.
A hissing sound would make me suspect a smaller pipe, maybe one from the vac pump to actuator perhaps
or one in the manifold area, possibly a split/leak on the larger pipe work causing loss of pressure?
The snag is as you've already pointed out, is it's all stuffed between the engine and bulkhead
so good luck with that.
A torch and phone cam may help you take a peek.
While I was away 'up norf' last week I came out of a shop shortly after arrival and noticed the
rear OS lens was missing
wtf?
Inspection showed no cracks or broken remnants due to an impact
so I assume it just popped off on the motorway as the adhesive failed.
Euro car parts wanted £156 for OEM Valeo, sod that
or £56 for aftermarket but I found the same one on Ebay for £31 inc Postage
so bought that which arrived the next day
Up yours eurocraparts !!
Valeo didn't exactly go mad with the sticky stuff by the looks of it

For a moment I thought Longniddry Bents was a euphemism until I realised it was a real place
North Berwick I know because of a family connection and knew there was a town called Longniddry
but the bents was unknown to me and caused a snigger or two.
I was like, um no? Why? "Oh, we're just putting ours in the car"
Thank goodness you didn't say something like "I'm trying to the restraints on my bitch"

cant really meet someone in the middle of a woodland or logging track miles away from the nearest building. ugh people.
Oh I dunno
Dogging comes to mind
I hear some folk are very keen on that sort of thing
Glad you got it sorted and pointed out a potential problem for the rest of us
Are they of much plenty cheapness?
My info on the 2.0 HDI says the stage one fan cuts in at 94C and out at 87C
while the stage two fan cuts in at 97C and out at 94C
The warning light should come on if the coolant temp reaches 110C
I haven't had a close look at the cooling electrical system but a quick glance
shows an ecu monitoring a PTC temp sensor and switching fan relays depending on
the temperature readings it gets.
It's possible the 1998 1.9td has a simpler system, which may use a pre set thermo switch to
controlling a relay for the fan, but have too little info on what Hirtag actually has under the bonnet
Maybe they all use an ECU control system? dunno.
5.2 l/100Km is 54mpg
That sounds pretty good to me if your kilometer reading can be relied on.
OK,
I found an owners handbook in all the paperwork I got with the van yesterday and
it says the fuel tank capacity is "Approximately 80 liters"
so 85L from bone dry to full sounds about right.
I'm growing more confident in the van now as I did a 600+ mile round trip to
north Yorks and back and it ran very well.
MPG was good, fill up to fill up showed it giving me 51.summat per gallon
( mostly motorway miles of course)
This surprised me as that's as good as the best the old 6 speed Galaxy ever gave me and I was hoping for low 40's
so got a pleasant surprise.
It seems pretty decent around the town too.
Whilst doing the first ever fill to the brim, I kept glancing under the van to see if there was a leak as the pump kept running for ages.
Later I read it has an 80 litre tank.
I filled up before coming back down South and after 382 miles from fill up,
the gauge showed a wee bit more then 3/4 full.
Impressive.
Perhaps try the MK2 section?
Without knowing the age mileage and history, its hard to say if they're prone to head gasket failures or not
I've not heard of it, maybe like a lot of vans they're more prone to neglect and abuse by
non owning drivers?
In your case as you've already got the lump out, I'd check and skim the head and give it a good inspection all
round before refitting as you at least know some of its history.
All this talk of rims and side walls is not irrelevant but does somemwhat
overcomplicate the issue.
Tyres are not all round, they distort (flatten) slightly at the bottom.
I made an Arduino based speedo for a motorbike and found it was simpler and more accurate to ignore rim/tyre sizes and just measure the distance between the wheel centre and ground to get a more realistic running radius.
From this you can calculate the running diameter and circumference.
The wheel sensor gave one pulse per revolution so in my case it was easy to calculate
Distance: number of pulses
Speed: number of pulses in a given time interval.
I dont know how many pulses the Dispatch/Expert/Scudo gearbox pulsers send but
reckon its more than one which should make it more accurate.
If I really wanted to know, I'd probably jack up a wheel and measure them as I turned the wheel one revolution.
You can pick the signal up from the back of the speedo or in my case also from the ECU
or from the wiring harness at any accessible point
I did a 600 ish mile trip this weekend mostly on motorways and noticed my 2006 Expert speedo
consistently read 2mph higher than my sat nav
83 is 17% less then 100
RH sliding door sealed up
deflectors fitted to doors
and partition done
Its so much quieter to drive now
Daily driving about the town it's very nice but it was at motorway speeds it got really unpleasant so I took it on my 'private test track' at speeds up to 90 and it was so much nicer to drive.
At 70 its not much different than my old Galaxy
that'll do me
Hopefully that's the last of the bigger jobs done and I can do all the tarting and tittivating and gadgets as and when
The roof rack has been disassembled and is now stowed up under the rh side roof/wall
and the fittings serviced and boxed up for when/if I need it.


Look on the bottom and you should see numbers next to the terminals
30/85/86/87 for instance
This will tell you what sort of relay it is.
4 pin is usually a make/break type, 5 pin usually a changeover with NO and NC terminals
The power rating you choose be above expected load
I'd be careful about sticking your finger in a hole where it may get trapped in gears.
I'd lift the nearest wheel and use a mirror/torch sort of thing to see if the gear turns whilst the wheel is
being turned.
I'm still not convinced the sender drive shaft is supposed to be friction driven.
Never seen that and even if it was true it would prone to all sorts of potential errors and faults.
It seem an awful expenditure of time and money renting a ramp
in Cheltenham.
If its the Alstone lane place, that's 40 miles from me in Fishponds
so 2 hours of driving and 2 gallons of deisel plus ramp rental
I'd just get my guy around the corner to do it and it would cost
me £40 for an hours labour.
Magnetic induction/hall effect probably
yeah, but no, I dont buy that.
Possible, but my moneys on PSA using a cheap, tried and tested device
they have warehouses full of that eventually fell apart after 20 years of use
Why go to the cost of developing a unique, more costly and complex device?
FYI
this place sells a new shaft for 65 PLN or £12.76
I know this is a massive ballache for you
having what should be a simple job made such a PITA
But I'm still wondering what drives/drove the pulser?
your shaft has no inner plastic looking insert as per my previous pic and your sender doesn't seem to have a square drive
so how did it work?
I'll hazard some guesses:
The insert broke away and is stuck inside the pulser thereby concealing it
or bits fell off as it was removed?
You may need a new shaft as well if this the case but I'd rebuild it with epoxy
cos I'm a cheap bastard and hate to spend when I can fix it myself
It may be my imagination but there seems to be an echo of a square in the pic of the end your shaft
is that original material or gunk stuck in there?
try picking it out and see what you find
Quote:
"I'm thinking it's not the clocks that are at fault. This is because at the same time as the speedo, odometer and trip stopped working, I started getting slight rough running/hesitancy in lower gears at lower speeds. Also I think my MPG dropped. This leads me to think that the ECU isn't getting the correct info to run engine properly."
That sounds quite plausible to me, why else take a feed off the speedo cable?
I'll try and find out what pin/cable colour is use on the engine management unit as that would probably be easier to access
did you swap over sender units?