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getting a new key cut. That stopped them spinning. Maybe worth a try before changing the barrels?
On the same day, I bought mine, I couldn't lock, then unlock mine. It still is the same, key works one way ONLY, if I was to insert it with bigger edge up- it'll spin- do nothing.
Casper wrote:Is that the XLWB? Only ever seen one in the metal and funny enough that was in Gemert, Holland
I think it is - I can see on NastyBaz's that the runner doesn't reach the very back and it has that extra panel
Very jealous
Kinda too... but then when you have to park up in some places it becomes unbearable pain. From memory had 3+ tickets when owned Sprinter and that wasn't worry, when 20mpg was good, service £600+ each tire was £100+, wish bone £300+ etc etc, losses (expenses) in a year was £3k+
Love small vans ever since 
Not got round to sorting this yet. I actually had to do this for a pre-booked meet-and-greet dropping the van off at the airport
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not blaming you!
feel guilty to have perhaps put you off it 
ooops, didn't look at the year
ignore my post
or a blockage as in thermostat or water pump
Try Rad-Cleaner from ECP's or couple, it'll take you half a day to find how to replace water (fill-up, warm up engine, get long nosed pliers, disconnect the pipe right on a cylinder, (3 ft bellow expansion tank)) cool it down; fill up with water, top up with rad-flush warm up and drain again) then pour fresh collant (blue) and see what's what.
as it comes to ERG- I can not fathom any relevance to what you suspect, which, still can be the gasket, but those go due to the age or running hot or they go if not enough coolant in a water during winter months.
The pic is quality, I'll enjoy it!
Not a clue about electrics, let's say it's a bümp ?
Don't be shy to post back
for entertainment purposes ?
Something I did!
It's very simple thingy, you have that aluminium stop knuckle that falls on its weight down to stop (if clean and if spring is off) mine was like it untill it stopped completely engaging. To put the spring back in to lower part hole is going to test your character. ANW long nosed pliers, bent screwdriver was needed to fit it in fully down position as it's behind the main clog.
Good luck!
Got the son to take wheel off....250mm. Can't believe Halfords is cheaper than euros and gsf. For the same item.
Won't comment on GSF, but ECP does all sorts, different quality, including older vehicle stock- it always pays to go to the store and ask for whats needed, what discount there's for it, might remain a stinker, might end up with a bargain. Also, they are used to have returns etc, so if you go in with all the reg etc- they have access to the right parts fiche ('s) to not to go wrong.
Oh, doors look well aligned when closed.
That's the problem, they should look as they have been fitted by a left handed drunk- works perfect! 
ok. So i checked the egr with the vacuum pipes off and it didn't make any difference at all.
So i thought i'd move on to removing and cleaning up/changing seals in the injectors. I have the inlet manifold off but now a little unsure as to the process. Does anyone have a guide or advice to removing the injectors. Thanks
There's decent guides on YouTube about
AlvyLad wrote:I'd be more inclined to believe it's ERG valve, incredibly simple ratification (isolation)- test to be sure
Thanks. Happy to try anything. Is that the test pulling off the 2 vacuum pipes?
I'd be more inclined to believe it's ERG valve, incredibly simple ratification (isolation)- test to be sure
Good job well done
You are in luck, if I'd move, old dispatch wouldn't scratch the surface in 10 goes... I know, I know...
HOARDERER...!!!
Try to see if exhaust cat isn't blocked by sut or something harder
I'd make an investment in to changing injectors or just a cleaner to start with or to end with, as it sounds more like an obsession you have to achieve a performance from a non-performance vehicle 
Helppppp
TBH, I'd take it to dea(stea)lers, to find where what wires are burned this time now, instead of trying and trying and failing...
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … d=1645&p=1
You may have noticed from the above that blower problems are among the most common and annoying on these vehicles.
You would think then that we might have arrived at a common, instant fix. Unfortunately not.
Apart from the rubbish slider controls the next most common suspect is the resistor mounted on the blower itself. But even replacing that has not been a resolution in all cases. I can't remember the details but if you read through past posts on heater problems you should find something on diagnosing the resistor.
If you do need to go for a replacement resistor you might even find a complete new blower for a similar price on ebay. I went for a new unit as mine was also sounding like the bearing was on it's way out.
Even replacing the blower motor (w resistor) doesn't necessarily mean it is solved (as happened in my case), down to the resistor going "funny" it typically melts anything it can before fuse would go... wiring, sliders, relays etc, etc
I'm sure you changed the fuel filter as well? ... and those engines never sound silky smooth, at least not on mine like never!
ANW, keep us posted, whatever you'll be up to now? 
at this price (£75) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225349716364
Might be worth replacing after all ...
Blah, blah, blah.
Going to start changing injectors PRIOR to given it service
.
After the service, once all done, few times engine gets warm and cold, even the pesky EGR might decide to work just fine, however nothing is guaranteed about injectors being clogged up, most importantly it has fresh diesel fed. Talking of which, adding injector cleaner something like 125ml bottle per 10 l fuel (I think) might cure the problem. And age- diesel loves condensing "grabbing" water from the moisture in the air that means rust, that means even fuel filter not necessarily is going to catch everything. It still has many times longer "shelf life" than petrol, that IE racing petrol goes stale in 6 months.
ANW, not what you are asking. What you are asking, if engine flush oil is going to damage the engine seals? - horse dung!... Except certain different engines and sludge blocking oil intake on certain few petrol turbo engines, if thus has build up up to crazy amounts and wouldn't get dissolved.
Considering the cost of the flush oil, you might be best off change with normal cheap oil, just to run engine hot- cold couple of times, drain it to see what'll come out, before doing final oil change - the same effect. Do it all might get you to the point of taking out of equation injectors or be certain it's worth doing or else, but not before proper service.
On a side note- these DW8 engines and injectors almost unheard of to have seizing or failing, hence I bought it on a very clever mechanic word, opposite to the newer engined vans, that are absolute pain and expense to get them out (change) and actual part price.
In short, do proper service, run it before blaming injectors. My $0.02ct.
As a user (and abuser), not a mechanic, I'd say it's infamous ERG valve, easily isolated (for test purposes) with couple of locking pliers to test and back to normal, ONLY then I'd dig as deep as injectors rusty... which might as well be, but... hang on there for better mechanically minded lads to see, digest and possibly respond something wiser 
nowt to stress over mate, I'm sure in a short-while you'll be accepted in a "posh club" the same... well almost the same 
some special tool.
Long nosed pliers
i feel kinda bad..
Don't believe you unfortunately
maybe good now when i say that i changed mine with nothing but jack stands, a hammer, a hacksaw, and socket set on my drive!
these bushes are so under looked
That sounds about right. Well done!
these shake testing rigs do not pick them up with the whole of the vans weight being on them.
Worked like a dream in my case (half loaded van) and in general you wouldn't wont van to be taken to suspension diagnostics fully loaded ;P
It's bit of a luck to find such garage, only one I've found (or knew) out of gazzilions of them around, and yes, as you can possibly see in a video pointed in to what was wrong.
Thanks for the tips John, as now, I think, "push come to shove" I might get myself axle stands and for the other side will have to do it myself...
Only just listened to the noise. Sounded like a steam engine! :0
Glad it's fixed. How much?
That's the noise of air operated suspension destructor (front), but it also is moving the rear enough to be sure what's what, as by the sound off whilst driving- I was guessing if it wasn't something higher up.
Still have one new bolt and bushing as a "spare" now, hope to not need to get to it done ever again, however as for an advice for anyone (what I've collectively had):
1 get a new bolt, as once all the rust and slamming they are truly pigs to get out
2 indeed cutting the bushing inner (and bolt (it is "wider" than outer enough) with either reciprocating saw or angle grinder would save a lot of time, instead trying to get it out "as"
3 indeed the method (I think by John) to drill out good portion of rubber, getting a hack-saw blade trough and making a cut to "fold in" outer metal by hammering a screwdriver to release tension would've saved few pies worth of calories. They had it on a ramp and x2 engine stands... still nearly had whole axle breaking as it was only held on one side...
Moneys ££££ it was bit of a unexpected and £150 cash expense, I could (can't) even put through expenses... Kinda steep, but South East (Farnham) where it was done is infamous for. The end of a sticks round here is bit of nightmare to get any reasonably priced and capable mechanics, hence I call them monkey wrenches, although own-self too inept and/or worried to try to do.