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Have you any clue as to anything that might have triggered it?
If there is a genuine fault, it might not be a good idea to just reset it?
I believe there are places online where you can send your ECU and they will reset for £25 or so. But apart from sending ECU away, I would be concerned about it immediately re triggering when refitted if there is an actual fault.
as it looks like I'd have to learn a whole new language.
I think they are just making it all up. 
Most camper vans of any make used to acknowledge each other on the road. Didn't tend to with motorhomes though.
You would be driving one handed if you tried it now.
Don't. Have that one on mine.
Looks like water level. Check radiator level.
What is your temp guage doing?
Yes it is the middle socket. With a yellow relay in mine.
Only live when engine running though
Sorry Cliffo, remembered to listen but forgot to post.
Couldn't detect a thing though.
Tried with ignition on and off.
I would expect it only to be live with engine on but perhaps also only when running?
If I have time and can find my meter I will have a closer look tomorrow.
I have heated rear windows but have never noticed any relay click.
I will have a good listen tomorrow though. Do you suspect they may be behind the glove box?
Sorry to hear that Michelle.
So annoying when it may be a relatively simple fault. I think part of the problem is that modern garages really can't be bothered with older vehicles these days. Can't blame them from a business point of view I suppose.
Better luck next time. 
My sticker is still on the mantlepiece. 
Still waiting for a repaint.
Might be worth talking to these people. South coast but even if not nearby may be able to point you towards suppliers. If you can find the windows, almost any van workshop should be able to fit them or DIY is not difficult.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333633490798 … OSwsvVd85H-
You should also consider what type. Opening ones are obviously desirable. Then there are the frameless "stick on" type which may be easiest to fit but would need to match to the curve of our doors.
If you only wanted small look out windows, some of those narrow slot types made for caravans can be fitted. If narrow enough the gentle curvature of the doors can be accommodated by the frame and gasket.
A small caravan window in this van. Looks a bit like a pill box but suits Bret's usage.
Don't know much about the central locking system on these vehicles as mine is manual.
If it turns out that the contact block is knackered, I have access to a van destined for scrap that I can get such small bits of if you need a replacement.
The idea of some support via subs or some other means has arisen before and Tiree suggested it was not necessary. If this has changed, I would be happy to contribute.
I think even more important than the continuation of the forum though is the preservation of the accumulated information. The forum could relatively easily be recreated but the info might be lost.
Certainly the case that MK1's often have resistor problems.
To be clear... afaik, the resistor is located on the blower motor itself, not in the electrics panel behind the fuse box. I think there is a relay relating to the heater in that electrical panel though
The controls can also be a problem.
There are many threads on the various heater problems on here and elsewhere. Not linked to any as I am unsure on if they would apply to your 2014.
I am sure someone will be able to confirm.
That's nice Dave but it's the inside that makes a camper.
More pics please. 
decided I'm gonna spend as little as possible till I know it's gonna pass another MoT lol.
I've been saying that for 5 years now. 
The buzzing suggests a dodgy relay?
I would expect the oil pressure light to be on until engine runs.
I think that the actual locking latch is at the rear center mounting of the door.
If you can find an attachment for a wire there you should be able to open with a pull.
Was that at DD's Ken?
Again don't know your area.
What sort of quotes are you getting?
With the temperature rising and making room in the containers to shake it more aggressively it has recovered as good as new.
Put a quarter tank of diesel in and toped up with the oil.
The thought of that gunge forming in the pump though will encourage me to be more conservative with the ratio in harsh weather.
Strange thing is that even when warmed well above freezing and shaken up, the white gloop just settled out on the bottom. It doesn't seem to reincorporate with the rest. I will decant a bit from each container to allow better agitation, add a bit of diesel and a shot of octane boost and try again.
I was aware of he fact that it thickened with cold but assumed it easily reconstituted afterwards. I didn't realise how thick it would go though or how resistant to remixing.. It is almost like margarine.
It would be interesting to know if the "gloop" is of any use in producing power anyway. Might it just be additives and better out than in?
I bought 60lt of veg oil to fill up but I didn't want to put it in as the tank was almost empty. So I left it outside the van overnight until I could put a bit of diesel in.
After a hard frost last night, some of the containers have gone white and gloopy.
Is it possible to make it safe for use again?
I did have a small bottle frozen before and tried shaking it up and letting it stand. The white settled out to the bottom and the rest looked ok. As it was such a small amount though I didn't risk it. and threw it away.
Thoughts?
Sorry, just checked, mine is from "Kidde".
btw... battery powered doesn't necessarily mean a cheap or less efficient design. The idea is that whatever possible power failures or shorts may occur with your 12v system, you can still depend on your self contained and powered alarm.
Also, the limited lifespan is related to the active life of the detector used. There is a lot more to them than I realised. Good wiki article here:-
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_monoxide_detector
Another advantage of being battery powered is that it is portable. Mine is just attached with HD velcro and has once or twice been used in a tent, in another van, and once when an elderly relative was unnecessarily worried about their new boiler.
I notice that most of the dual purpose ones are CO and "natural gas"! I don't know if these will pick up propane/butane or not? They also tend to be 240v with limited battery backup.
Most important thing with gas is I think is ensure effective drop out holes.