The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

Does that part include the rubber bit, the two bends, and the thin pipe branching off?

Those 33 views are likely to be mostly guests.

I did see your post myself but didn't understand your question so didn't reply.

But since you insist... yes it should be ok to "clean all the parts with either meths or turps etc,".
As for it giving any "engine improvement",  I haven't got a clue.

Best advice I can offer is that you learn some maners and patience.

Looks a lot neater than many home made versions I have seen.

Not in the market for one myself but would think that at the right price there might be takers.  Looks like you could easily adapt the side pieces to alow for fitting in different width and shape vans.  Problem might be to make it profitable yet still affordable.

What sort of ply have you used and what are the slats made from?

Hello and welcome   ☺

You need wings.

The front edge never fits flush with the front door.even when fitted perfect.

They virtualy admitted this by making wind deflectors for the trailing edge of the front doors.  They stick on with double sided tape.

Can sometimes be found on scrap taxis.  Mine came from an ex police van.

On this subject,  can anyone recommend a solvent to remove that spongy tape residue without damaging the plastic?

U

Took mine to three garages before I got mine done.  First one didn't want to know.  Second one replaced 1 and said the rest were sized and they couldn't shift them without high risk of snapping.  Wouldn't even have a go when I said I would risk it.

Eventually got them all safely done in a morning by Diesel Dave in Keighley.

I think it's an easy test to check them first if unsure they are failing

I think you are right woodbine.  I was looking down a list of pairs and looks like I slipped into a single.

Pretty sure there were pairs for less though.

How about these:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-PEUGEOT- … SwZF5cxufU

Any good?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TYC-20-11218 … SwAsRfG58l

Good price and reasonable delivery.
Confirm fitment for yourself before ordering.

It could be stuck, or it could be that the mechanism isn't working.

Check behind the door cards to see if the 2 wire rods are still conected at each end and move when the handle is pulled.

If they do, it suggests the mechanism is ok and could be at vaz suggests, the rear lock catch might be jammed.  Pressure or a  blow from either inside or out might free it.

Once open, you might get away with makeing an adjustment to the catch and all will be well.

In my experience,  once you start adjusting the mounts and latches, you end up something else not quite right.
At the moment my recent replacement won't open from the outside but closes, locks and unlocks from inside and out.
Perhaps more importantly it also seals well so I will leave alone.

What about the camper layout, have you decided on what sort of set up you need?
And where it will go?

I can't find the recent thread either Grifter.  Wasn't a complete guide but may have had a few pointers.

Can't find anything on the net either which is surprising for a common vehicle with a known issue. 
I am sure a guide from yourself would be useful for many others.

Definitely looks like a change to the thread in that bolt.  Could be trick of the light.
With no sign of swarf, it could be that it has been run in and out enough to make a fit.  Trouble is, what size is the inside thread now?  And is there enough metal to re cut at standard size?

There has been a recent thread on replacing gear cables.  I think there were complications.

As vaz mentioned, there is an inherent loose feel with the cable linkage.  I was convinced there was something wrong when I first got mine but found that after a few hundred miles they seemed fine.  Might be just a case of getting used to it?