The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

Would you believe that one of my front springs has just broken, while parked up in the driveway.
I just called my local who quoted £288 - which seems like a lot (even for the South East). What were your fitting costs?

When I took the console off, it looked liked I would have to slit the mat or do some dismantling - I checked the book time for changing the mat and it was 5 hours, so I gave up on the idea of pulling it out. Hopefully I'll not have to do it again - cleaning the rubber tubes is now part of my service schedule!
Vaz, I wouldn't get too paranoid, my windscreen had a decent layer of condensation every morning - in retrospect it was pretty obvious that something was wrong

Hi, how did you remove the mat? To me it looked like major dismantling of the dash, so I just removed the seats and rolled it up as much as I could.

I think carparts4less is the same outfit as Eurocarparts

Managed to pick up a new replacement lock on eBay. The keeper has an extra spring on it that isn't on the original.
Just wondered if anyone has this, and what its for.

Hadn't noticed in the picture, that the coolbox is in fact nestled between 2 standard seats - unfortunately not enough room with swivel seats 

Peugeot don't use a colouring scheme for wires - every single wire has a code printed on on it!
The code from the stalk will be PR2, but you could also breakout from the fusebox F12/F13

Definitely torx bits, allen keys, molegrips, adjustable wrench, tyre plug kit and tyreweld (I don't carry a spare tyre), battery pack with pump, soldering iron, fuses, spare crimps & wire, voltmeter, tiewraps, gaffer & double sided & velcro tape, wd40, more screwdrivers than I'll ever need, superglue, that Lidl epoxy putty, araldite, stanley knife, pliers (bull nose & needle), side cutters and (if I remember) telescopic magnetic tool. I also carry a spare oil filter & funnel on longer trips.

btw I had to dry out my front mat - took out the seats and shoved lumps of wood under to get some airflow. Ran blow heaters for a couple of days and it had little effect. Ended up buying a decent dehumidifier and that sorted it out fairly quickly.

With the windows, probably the relay failing - 13.5V not enough, 14.5V OK
Personally I couldn't see the sense in running the windows off the ignition, so I pulled the relay and shorted out the terminals, so the windows can be operated all the time. The window switches have (very dim) small orange lights that stay on all the time, so I snapped them off to avoid the small drain.

Hi, you won't be able to see the hole from the inside because it will be covered with foam insulation. In fact I used a knitting needle to poke a hole through it, from the engine bay.  Also I tried to feed wires through the top of the "C" pillar, without success.

"on the picture in that thread, does it drop down toward the floor somewhere just behind the gold (suspension?) pin? "

No, it's pretty much level with where you can see the wires heading.

The consumption figures look about right.
The standard thermoelectric coolboxes take about 4 or 5 amps - continuously, and will cool 15-20C below ambient (which isn't a lot of use when the inside of the van is 35C!) . Since an 85Ah battery only realistically gives you about 50% of the rating, this equates to about 10hours.

Waeco tropicool boxes are a little more sophisticated - cooling by 30C below ambient and using a theromostat to switch on and off, claiming to get down to and equivalent of 2A an hour, which would be 20 hours on the leisure battery

Waeco Coolfreeze compressor boxes will cool down like a regular fridge, consuming abut 3A when running - but the difference is that once its down to temperature, and depending on the ambient temp, it can take very little to run. Usually less than 1A per hour - which would give 40 hours on the leisure battery.

Of course the Waeco boxes cost a small fortune, so it depends on how much use you are going to get out of it.
Personally I've used all 3 types, and wished I'd just spent the money on a compressor at the beginning.

One thing that I would say is that any wiring to the coolbox should be as big as possible (10mm 75A) - once cables are routed they can be quite long, and the voltage drop can be significant, especially when compressors startup.