The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

Ah! hang on
Another look tells me the outlet from the filter goes to the priming pump then the injector pump
I mistakenly assumed the primer was pre filter, so 7 (pump inlet) must connect to the primer.

What are two sensor looking connectors? one green one blue.
I'll guess one is the coolant temp sensor.

I'd say Top of filter/outlet (no 4) goes to injector Pump/inlet (7) which, if I'm right,
should currently be connected to the bottom of your after market can filter.
8 on pump should be the fuel return to tank.

By all means check though, because I have a different pump and filter on my 2.0 HDI.

Welcome Claire
2006 DW8 NA?
I'm surprised someone cheaped out and put a DW8 in 2006 van.
the could have at least stuck a turbo lump in.
( The XUD 1.9 turbo could be a possible upgrade to mull over)
I had a DW8 C15 van and it was, let's say 'pedestrian' to drive.
Sounds like you jumped off a racehorse and on to a donkey!

Oh well, you've bought it now

I'm at just over 1 year of ownership of one of these vans
after a VAG engined Galaxy and have the 2.0 HDI model.
I cant specifically say what to look for but but in general,
check for rot before committing to throwing too much money at it.
The inner and outer sills and front subframes are  known to rot and
if neglected will cost plenty of time and money to fix.

It's probably the simplest and least complex model with no ECU,
no remote central locking,no air con or seat belt pretensioners to delve into.
Changing the cam belt and water pump was a good move, so this with regular oil
and filter changes should ensure there's plenty of life left in it.
Having an indirect injection lump means you'll need to check the glow plugs
and relay especially before the temps drop later in the year.

There is no Haynes manual to refer to, the Hayne Autofix is a useles rip off
so dont bother
Electrically:
Citroen do not use colour conventions on cables like most manufacturers
but each cable has a number on it which can be a PITA at times.
On the wiring diagrams I've found each device has a code which is ok
when you have the look up table, but can be bloody frustrating when you dont.
I've worked on vehicle and motorcycle electrics for years and still get very irritated
at something I should be able to trace through in seconds can take ages to do.

On a say an Audi system, a brown cable will be a ground or green on a Honda
On these vans, green/yellow is often a ground, but that cant be relied on.

Anyway Show us a pic of your pride and joy

Two hefty sets of 24"stilsons come to mind for that job though 18" may serve.
One on the rod one on the track end.
I used to have a pair, one Rigid one Record that would shift manys a stubborn assembly.
If they have good teeth, not rounded off nubs, they're very useful for this sort of thing

I'm wondering why you need to change the glow plugs.
Have you done any tests to confirm they are bad or failing?
If not I'd suggest you check
A they are getting a supply from the relay.
B see if one or more fails the resistance test.

All you need is a digital multimeter and
some small spanners to remove the terminals to isolate them
for testing.

A good plug will have a resistance of around 1 ohm
anything over say 6 ohms is probably bad or at least failing.

White smoke that clears when the engine warms up could be bad glow plugs of course
but it could be other things.

Cant help I'm afraid never done this job on that engine.

"Starter"? are you sure?
That's down below, maybe you mean injector pump?
because I can see how that could get in the way as well as that fuel filter housing
On mine the coolant reservoir is just held on by one bolt that can be loosened to
allow it  to slide off and moved out of your way.

Hopefully someone else here has done this job and has some tips and tricks

I'd like to know why too.
Your earlier pic of the van shows a typical bumper for its age
with the ususal scuffs and greying

Nothing that cant be tarted up easily and cheaply
My shiny black bumpers came out of a can 
The only difference I see is the later facelift bumpers had provision for fog lamps

I reckon it's the pad sensor wire too.
Mine failed the MOT because the thing just dangling about ( as well as some welding of course)
and it was easily tidied up.
Insulate both cables if/when you trim it as if they're shorted together, this will trigger an alarm light on the dash

what does that mean?

Mine has a single passeneger seat and that would be fairly straight forward to mount on a swivel
but a swivelling double seat would take a more serious design time and effort (and money of course)
to make it fit for purpose and safe.

I'd like to see a double passener seat or two seperate passenger seats actually fitted and swivelling
in place before I'd believe it, because looking at mine, I really dont see much room for it unless they are child seats.

It's to let you enjoy the extra power and good mpg when it goes right
and break your heart and wallet when it doesn't.