The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

John, is the cam belt tensioner automatic/spring loaded - or do you have to tension it yourself on the 2.0 HDIs/JTDs?

Also, what do you use to jam the flywheel with - screwdriver or can you get a special wedge for the ring gear?

If the tensioner is auto, may be twmpted to have a go myself when cam belt change is due.

My thoughts exactly. Keep it simple.

Like the fact that mine has no airbags or ABS. Less chances of getting stung at MOT time.

Managed to change my cables today. It's a longer and fiddlier job than I thought, with a reasonable amount of dashboard removal required. Basically all the dash, apart from the large top piece. It pays to take your time, be methodical and make a note of how things come apart and how the cables are routed - 2 cables for the 1.9s and and extra, thinner cable for the 2.0s that operates the reverse gear gate. Long, skinny arms are also a big help (luckily both of mine fulfil this criteria) as access is quite tight, especially for the brackets at the rear of the gearbox where the metal ends of the cable outer sheaths are held in with metal clips.

Some tips for others attempting this job -

RUBBER FLOOR BUNG - The rubber bung that seals the hole in the floor where the cables pass through is a bit of a pain to both remove the old one and install the new one. To remove the old one, it's best to go underneath van and unclip the grey or white oval plastic retainer clip that holds the bung firmly in the hole in the floor. The clip has a snap together bit on one side, get a screwdriver in to pop the snap together apart, then remove the plastic clip. Then you can go back inside van and the bung will come out easily.

When installing the new cable's bung leave the plastic clip in place on the rubber bung and make sure the snap together bit on one side of clip is closed. I put a bit of washing up liquid to act as lubricant on the bung's plastic clip on top and bottom where the two tabs are that hold bung tight in floor hole. Then I pushed the bung in most of the way, but it's difficult to get it in the whole way so that the plastic clip's tabs snap in. I found that if I held the head end of a claw hammer in the palm of my hand and used the end of the handle to push the bung in several different places, I could get enough pressure to get the bung and it's plastic locator clip to push fully home and snap into place.

METAL OUTER SHEATH END 'C' CLIPS - GEARBOX END

These are a bit of a pig due to limited access for hands and tools, but with a bit of time and patience they will reward you by finally dropping out onto the ground. There are two 'C' shaped spring clips that locate the bulbous metal ends of the cable's outer sheath onto a bracket at the rear/top of gearbox. To remove I found it easier to work under the bonnet and use small screwdrivers, a small drift/punch and a hammer to tap them downwards.

To reinstall, I fould it is much easier to work from underneath van. Make sure the metal part of end of sheath is pushed fully home into the hole of the bracket with one hand while pushing the 'C' clip upwards into groove of metal part of end sheath. Once started you can tap the clip upwards with small hammer or pair of pliers until the botton of clip is level with bottom of bracket. The clip will then need pushing upwards a bit further before it is fully home. I found the only sensible way of doing this was with a long, large flat-bladed screwdriver - with tip of screwdriver held against bottom of 'C' clip then tapped upwards with hammer. This should get the clip fully located.

The bung and 'C' clips on gearbox end of cable were the parts I found most difficult and time consuming. Rest is quite straightforward. Hope this helps anyone else tackling their gear cables.

So no system to stop you going into reverse by mistake?

With all the cars I've owned over the years, there was always some method to stop you going straight into reverse, whether it was a lift ring, or push the whole knob and stick downwards, or lift the whole lot up.

Yes, there's a ring between top of gear stick gaiter and bottom of knob. You lift it until it meets bottom of knob then it will allow stick to go hard left and forward into reverse. No lift ring, no get reverse!   

Must be a 2.0 thing, though I've never owned or driven a 1.9 so can't confirm. Different gearboxes - the 2.0 is ML5C gearbox. So I suppose there will be other differences.

What stops a 1.9 stick from going into reverse by mistake? Or are 1.9 owners much more skillful drivers, and don't need safety features that us cack-handed 2.0 owners need, to save us from ourselves?   

Yes, that's another plus with these vans - engines that do big mileages. However, you need to put some effort into keeping them going - but not a lot. Just keep the cam belts changed on time, plus regular oil and filter changes. Also look after the antifreeze. These are the type of things that there's no way back from if neglected them and they cause problems as a result. Other neglected areas can be rectified without too much trouble and expense - if you see what I mean.

Hi MC and welcome to the forum. That's an unusual colour Dispatch you have, not seen one before.

Most people would recommend a Gates or Dayco kit when doing the timing belt. Apart from the belt, you get the water pump, tensioner, idler, etc.

This should be the one for your van -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gates-Timing … Swz19gUNEd

https://www.gatesautocat.com/v/fiat/scu … 524xs.html

While you've got it all apart, check condition of the aux/fan belt and tensioner and replace if necessary when you remove them to get to cam belt.

Really like the simplicity of my 04 Scudo. Looking at the picture of dash above reminded me. Borrowed an almost new Kia Proceed recently for trip from Bristol to Oswestry and back. Being petrol was nice smooth drive, but bloody complicated and cluttered with buttons, displays, switches, dials, more displays, bells, whistles, gongs going off all the time. What a nightmare. Nagged to put seatbelt on. Told me when to change gear. Must put foot on brake to start engine. Stupid leccy handbrake.

I never got to find out what 90% of the controls did, just used the vital ones. As for sat nav, I wouldn't have the foggiest. Was relieved to be back in the simple, uncomplicated van afterwards. Imagine when all that tech starts going wrong!     

Thanks to all for your replies. Yes, the Fiat spares prices are ridiculous, £200 for a couple of cables. Fixed my ac last year because a rubber pipe that runs across top of gearbox had rubbed through on the mount. Fiat wanted over £300 for a rubber and metal pipe about 3' long. In the end, sent it away to an ac specialist in Benfleet and they crimped in a new section of rubber pipe and reused the alloy sections.

Anyway, I bought Fiat original OE cables for £67 inc P&P from Ebay. Hopfully they will last the 17 years that the originals did.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Scudo-2 … 2749.l2649

Another problem with Fiat spares for me is that the local Fiat dealer (Simonstone, Bristol) went bust last year. It's a bit of a trek to another dealer, because they were the only one in town. Anyway, I digress............

I was wondering more if the cable ends need grease/silicone grease where they snap onto the ball on gearbox selector. Only because the ball is metal and the cable ends are plastic. Wondered if lube would reduce plastic to metal wear. But it sounds if not required so I won't bother when I get around to fitting them soon. That's if the weather gets a bit warmer/drier.

Very nice.   

I've owned my Scudo since 2007 (how those 14 years have flown!!       ), it wasn't quite 3 years old when I bought it - so every MOT on my van has been done while the van is in my ownership. My van has never failed an MOT - passed every time. Only the occasional advisory.

Says a lot for quality Italian engineering!           

Thanks Vaz. Doesn't seem too bad then, just fiddly. Couple of metal clips too on a bracket between gearbox and bulkhead that gives cables some support.

And will remember to remove locking button to help rubber boot/bung fit in hole in floor.