The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

Spent a bit of time trying to find  a motor running feed and gave up in the end. Instead I tapped into the ign feed at the radio, and fed that into a timer circuit (AT41 on eBay), and then a switch. I set the timer to about 30s, so that I would have enough time to start the engine, however  I usually operate it via the switch anyway, since the solar panels usually suffice.

The fusebox at the dash does not seem to be designed for humans, and the manual does not help much. I located the correct details for my 2015 DW10CD model, which may be of use.

F1 15A - rear wiper
F3 5A - airbag ECU
F4 10A - Steering angle sensor (COM 2003) - ESP dual sensor - rear wiper relay - diagnostic socket - clutch switch - non automatic air conditioning control panel - manual headlamp height corrector - particle filter pump
F5 30A - Electric rear view mirrors - passenger window motor
F6 30A - Driver's sequential window supply - front passenger's sequential window supply
F7 5A - Spotlamps R2 - Spotlamps R3 - interior lamp R3 (private vehicle) - glovebox lamp - Spotlamps R1
F8 20A - Multifunction display - antitheft alarm siren - audio system - CD changer - telephone system
F9 30A - Cigar lighter - diagnostic socket
F10 15A - Rear height corrector (CAAR) - steering wheel switch module (Com 2005) - instrument panel
F11 15A - Diagnostic socket - ignition switch
F12 15A - Hands free kit - airbag ECU - parking assistance ECU
F13 5A - Fusebox - trailer relay unit
F14 15A - Rain sensor - rear additional air conditioning - automatic air conditioning - instrument panel
F17 10A - Heated rear screen - Deicing rear view mirrors

Well kudos for admitting it

Smart eh.. Just another black box that the end user has no idea whats going on. One think I can tell is that a lot of whats going on is to convince the regulators that it likely to be less polluting. So when parked up my radio stops working after 15mins, to save the battery, forcing me to run the engine to listen for a few more mins. Same if I want to wind the windows up. Thats progress for you.

As a footnote, the battery did not actually fit under the seat. I missed out the mechanism used to release the seat back/forward. I could have squeezed it in, but I did not like the idea of metal (grounded) parts being so close to the +ve terminal. I was lucky enough to have enough room behind the seat, and I still fit a 1000W inverter, and 40A DC-DC charger under the seat.

Just checked the seat bolt hole pitch, and it is 42cm left/right. However there are 2 holes at the back at 23cm and 30cm. So the seat bolts are aligned at the front, but staggered at the rear.

Ah its the newer (MK4?) version. Sorry I don't know if they are the same as the older versions. If you want to try to measure the pitch on the floor I can check against my seat (2015 Mk3)

All the older seats will fit, as long as you have the base that fits to the floor.

Yes, the heating is nice to have, as is UK support. I recon that 2 105ah would fit under the passenger seat. However the 230ah under seat will too. So I went for it.
It's a lot to spend, but long term it will be cheaper, and has a better chance of actually being useable.

You could always get some new ones £60 each at buycarparts. The offset is 46mm instead of 42mm.
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/tyres/whe … r/14750614
I'd check if they actually have stock before ordering

When I got my old Constables WAV van, the sliding windows had stopped moving because the rubber weatherstrip has perished. So I contacted the firm that fitted the windows www.sgi-glass.co.uk and was able to get replacement rubber. They were very helpful, so it may be worth contacting them for advice.

One other thing to note is that the base footprint, bolting to the floor, is the same for all variants, dispatch, expert, 806, synergie, c8, . V1 v2 etc